Jaden

Hi.

I’m attempting to plan a trip to Scotland for next June. I’m going around and around about whether to do a tour (with a professional co.). I have already been corresponding with one particular group but haven’t laid any money down as of yet. I don’t want to nail myself down to a certain schedule just yet without checking each option. In your opinion, is it more cost effective to go with the professional tour group and if so, how do you know you’re going with a reputable company?

As I read several of your posts, I see that many are fans of renting a car and doing your own tour. I guess I could do that if the wonderful people of Scotland are brave enough to tolerate my endeavors at driving on the opposite side of the road. Besides the professional tours and car hiring I have also considered getting a train pass to hop on and off wherever I need to. Ideas, suggestions, horror stories? All are welcome.

I would like to take about 7-10 days and see some battle sites, castles and historical places…in general.

This novice adventurer appreciates any help, suggestions you wish to donate.

Thanks!!

steviegene

Hi jaden!

I leave for my trip to scotland in 4 days!!
If you click on my name it will direct you to the series of threads I went through to plan my itinerary, and the very helpful comments I recieved. Other names to look up include misha2 (just returned from her trip), caroline_edinburgh, sheila and janisj.

In short, we are spending 7 full days in Scotland.
We arrive Tuesday October 3rd and depart Tuesday October 10th.
Our itinerary is:
4/3: arrive early morning in Edinburgh and overnight Edinburgh
4/4: explore Edinburgh and overnight Edinburgh
4/5: pickup rental car and drive to Stirling, Callander, overnight Buchllyvie
4/6: Explore Trossachs area, Loch Lommond, etc. overnight Buchlyvie.
4/7: Drive up to Isle of Skye through Glen Coe. Overnight Portree
4/8: Explore Skye, overnight Skye.
4/9: Drive back to Edinburgh - overnight near airport.

We have no qualms about renting a car. We have been to England before, and found driving on the opposite side of the road to be interesting - to say the least! I think its easier to have your own independent adventures when you rent a car. Then you are on your own schedule, and can stop in the areas that interest you. We personally, have never liked tours. But to some people, they make the travelling more stress free. I guess it depends on what kind of traveller you are.

gabrieltraian

Go on your own. Thus, you get to do and see what you want for as long as you want. There'll be nobody pushing you from behind to hurry up 'cause hte bus leaves in a minute.

My wife and I spent 7 days in Scotland a few years ago. We were beginner drivers and moreover, rented a car anddrove on the left side for the first time.

We had one of the best holidays ever.

I wrote a detailed trip report, which you might want to read. Maybe you will get some ideas of what you can see and do and how long it may take for each thing.

Here's the link to the report (Kilts, haggis and bagpipes)

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34822880

twk

Whether the destination is Scotland, or any place else, to me, the key to whether or not one should travel independently or book a tour is whether or not you have the time, inclination, and means to learn enough about your location to plan the trip properly (where to stay, how to get there, what to see). Scotland is not difficult at all, in this respect.

My suggestion would be to, first, read a few guidebooks to get a general idea of the big sites that you want to see, then fine tune that by consulting more guidebooks and the web (this forum, and the destination section of Fodor's, for example). I particularly like the Undiscovered Scotland web site. www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk

Once you've got a general idea of where you want to go, folks on this board will be glad to suggest how you can do it (by car or public transport) and where you should stay.

roadlesstraveled

steviegene

I hope you will post a trip report.

I am trying to plan a 7 day trip to Scotland in May. I am having a hard time with the planning because I usually take longer trips, but I am traveling with 3 other people, who can only spend 7 days in Scotland. Your itinerary sounds great. Have you considered driving time? I ran into trouble with my first trip to Ireland because I completely underestimated the driving time from one place to another.

Jaden

Thanks for all the great info and suggestions (and links to follow) so far.

I'm so glad I stumbled in here.

J~

steviegene

Hi,

I will most definetly post a trip report. Many people here have really, really helped me plan my trip, and I hope I can do the same for others! I was very stressed out before, and now feel really good about it!

As for the driving times, itinerary, etc. I have been assured by several experts on this board that this itinerary is manageable and will allow time to get from place to place, while also seeing sights along the way. That said, it is very full, and it does have 2 days worth of long drives. The day from Buchlyvie to Skye 10/6 - (I just noticed I put 4/6 on the above post?!!) will probably take 5 hours of driving, as will the day from Skye to near Edinburgh --10/9. However, we are "on-the-go" travellers who enjoy long drives and don't like to stay put for long. My husband especially gets restless, and wants to see a lot & do a lot on all our vacations.

If you like a slower pace, you could probably cut out the isle of skye and focus on the coast, or spend more time in Edinburgh and Trossachs region. There is also the region near Aberdeen, Perth, the Borders. Through my book reading, it seems that there are many areas of scotland worth visiting. Im sure that someone here (with a lot more knowledge) could help you...there is also a lot of info to be found in old posts. Do a search for "scotland itinerary" or "scotland trip report". Etc.

Danna

You can also go individually, but take the bus. You can get where you want to go, see the scenary, meet folks and not have to drive. It's not the most popular suggestion but we enjoyed ourselves using public transit.

sheila

This was 12 days I did on battle, mountains and music:-

3 days in Edinburgh- Stay in the old town. Read a book called “The Fanatick” for a lovely link between the modern day and the Covenanters.

There’s a listing guide published in Scotland called “The List” which you should pick up when you get here, which will tell you what’s going on in the traditional music scene.

In Edinburgh check out Sandy Bell’s, the West End Hotel, the Royal Oak and the Castle Arms, apart from Ensign Ewart’s (which is pretty strictly for the tourists). Be aware that what I’m talking about here is folk music, not pipes and drums and bonny-purple-heather type of ballads- there is some cross-over but not much.

A day in Stirling,- obviously do the Castle, Bannockburn and Stirling Bridge, but think about the walk round the town wall. The Golden Lion in the town centre was the location for the town’s folk club when I was young, but I think it’s switched to the Terraces Hotel. Read “Rob Roy”

A day in Perth the Black Watch regimental museum, bits of the old town’s wall, Hal O’ the Wynd’s house and the Fair Maid’s House, Huntingtower Castle. The North Inch is the site of the famous “Battle of the Clans”. Most of Perth's interest lies in its history- ancient capital of Scotland- and in its place in Scottish literature. Just north of Perth, 2 miles or so, is Scone Palace, worth a visit itself, which was the site where the kings and queens of Scotland were crowned, seated on the Stone of Destiny, (a good fake of) which you will no doubt have seen when you visited Edinburgh Castle.

The town's 12th century Church, St John's is worth a visit. It contains the remains of an Earl of Perth who is supposed to have told the town's baillies "If you give me six feet, I'll give you twa inches"- a reference to the two parks on either side of the old town, the North and South Inches (from the Gaelic Innis, meaning meadow). In addition, it is where John Knox preached the destruction of the monasteries at the start of the Scottish reformation. Sir Walter Scott wrote a novel called "the Fair Maid of Perth", and her house and that of Hal o' the Wynd, can both be visited. This will tell you all about Clan Chattan and Clan Kay and their battle. Next to Hal o' the Wynd's house is the City Mills which has a restored oatmeal mill and some nice craft shops. The City Mills Hotel, which I think is now called the Stakis, is another converted Mill, done so the lade can be seen flowing underneath.

If you walk along the Tay, you can see where the houses in the Watergate had their gardens, which led down to the river, where Kate Barlass held off the soldiers come to capture and kill the king.

The town has really good shopping centred around the High Street and Old High Street.

On the folk music scene, there is Dougie MacLean’s place in Dunkeld. You might do worse than add in Dunkeld on your way north. It’s a lovely town on the Tay, with a beautiful historic square, a cathedral and some wonderful views. The Hilton, formerly Dunkeld House, is quite an upmarket hotel, right on the banks of the Tay. Dunkeld is a very classy town. The Cathedral is special, but so is the square with its National Trust houses. Some very good antique shops (never pay what they are asking)

The square is owned by the National Trust and there are a couple of good places to eat and shop. Birnam, just outside Dunkeld, is, of course, famous as being the place from which the wood came to Dunsinane in Macbeth. Dunsinane is just north of Perth on the Aberdeen road.


An easy trip from Dunkeld is Blair Atholl, which is a planned village and is very pretty in a slightly twee Victorian style, and it houses Blair Castle, home of the Dukes of Atholl and the Atholl Highlanders. V I
impressive in the grand style..

On the way, you pass Killiecrankie, where you can see the famous soldier's leap. If you don't know the story, learn the song. Another famous battle

Another easy trip out from there is to take a wee detour west to Aberfeldy and Loch Tay. You will pass Breadalbane Castle, former home of the Marquis of Breadalbane, and now a golf course! and come to the lovely 18th century planned village of Kenmore. The loch is stunning.

And if you're up to the walk, go along the north side to Ben Lawers and drive up to the National Trust visitor centre. Time it right and then walk up to the top. Don't do this if it's raining unless you're nuts!

A day or two in Inverness/Fort George/Culloden, -. On the way north, stop at the Ruthven Barracks at Kingussie and see how Wade’s army lived after the ‘15

A day driving to the west coast along the lochs, and 2 days on Skye, - Go North to Garve and west to Achnasheen and stop at Poolewe or Gairloch. On the way back go round Torridon and past Applecross and over the Beallach nam Bo. Watch the weather here.

Go onto Skye over the bridge and then off on the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig. My favourite place to stay on Skye is Hotel Eilean Iarmain.on the Sleat peninsula, about 16 miles from the bridge. It has a great restaurant and is also only a few miles from Lady Macdonald’s place (Kinloch Castle), which also does great food.

Skye is mostly about scenery, although it has its share of history too. Great things to do include seeing the Cuillins; taking a boat trip from Elgol to see the seals; wandering round Portree; visiting the Quiraing; visiting the Clan Macdonald Centre; seeing the fairy flag at Dunvegan; go to the Talisker distillery; take in the atmosphere at the Sligachan Hotel; go to the Colbost Folk Museum (mainly because it’s a black house); go to Flora Macdonald’s grave; hire bikes; go pony trekking; see eagles; climb mountains. Another great place to eat is the Three Chimneys, which has just been named one of the top 100 restaurants in the world. In your search for battlegrounds you need to see the site of the Battle of the Braes.

On the way south, you pass Glenfinnan and you should stop and see the monument there. You need to try to understand the desolation of Highland life and the hope that was held out to Highland people by the mountebank Charles Edward Stuart between 1745 and 1746, when he left from the Loch nam Uamh-no distance at all from where he arrived but with thousands dead and Cumberland all over us like a rash.

Keeping south from Fort William go east at Ballachulish and through Glencoe, the Glen of Weeping. Bear in mind, that, within the last few years, a fuss has been made because the National Trust has employed a Campbell to work in the new centre- over 300 years after the massacre.

South of Lochearnhead turn up Balquhidder and into Rob Roy Country proper.

2 days in Glasgow (too many good museums to miss). Not a little history too. If you want folk music try the Scotia or the Clutha Vaults nearby, the Victoria, the Halt or the Islay. For a ceilidh try the Renfrew Ferry (a real ferry moored on the river. Every Friday night) or the Riverside.

3) Good pubs and sites for traditional music. Apart from those mentioned above, try the Sligachan on Skye, and keep an eye on the diary on the Travelling Folk web site:-http://www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/radioscotland/programmes/other/travelling_folk.shtml

sheila

And wthis was castles, scenery, shopping and sea food.

This will concentrate on castles, abbeys, scenery, quaint towns, and big towns, with shopping and restaurants, and it assumes you will have a car and are not reliant on public transport. I will mention small hotels I like. I can’t really do B&Bs or guesthouses because I don’t use them myself. I will try to recommend the more unusual.

So, after seeing Edinburgh, cross over the Forth Road Bridge to Fife on the other side of the river. Dunfermilne is on your left. Robert the Bruce, the hero king who won Bannockburn is buried here in Dunfermilne Abbey (although his heart is buried at Melrose in the borders); go back onto the main road and you will shortly come to Loch Leven, where Mary Queen of Scots was locked up in the castle on the island (v. romantic..the story of the escape- she then fled to her cousin in England for succour. She locked her up for 20 years then beheaded her.) You can take boat trips from Kinross.

Vane Farm Bird Reserve is on the other side of the Loch.

Then go due east to the coast. There are lots of other nice places, like Ceres, Falkland Palace, the East Neuk villages, Pittenweem, St Monans and Leven - a stretch of picture-postcard little fishing villages, with Anstruther, Crail, etc, leading toward St Andrews. For hiking, there's the Fife Coastal path that runs along the entire coast.

In Anstruther visit the fishing museum, then have the best fish in the world for your lunch (the Cellar restaurant). After that drive along the coast to Largo, home of the 'original' Robinson Crusoe. When Daniel Defoe wrote about Robinson Crusoe, he was writing about a real person. His name was Alexander Selkirk and he came from Largo in Fife. Defoe was an English spy up in Scotland in the 1700' and nicked the story. That area of Fife is well worth a visit

In St Andrews, take a trip underneath the castle in St. Andrews, Fife. It can be a bit of a squeeze so if you are claustrophobic then probably best to pass on this one. John Knox used to live in this castle - also get chance to see the bottle dungeon. St. Andrews has an ancient university, a cathedral and is the home of golf. The Royal and Ancient is seriously worth a visit. It has one of the best beaches in the world- the West Sands, which is where they filmed the opening sequence of Chariots of Fire- shame about the weather- and one of the best ice cream shops in the world (Jannetta's) apart from being a lovely little town. Also shops

Other restaurants in the area which are very good would include the Ostler's Close in Cupar, the Cellar in St Monan's and the Peat Inn at Peat Inn.

Day 2, I think we have to take you right across the middle of the country to the West coast because so much of what is spectacular is there.

Cross the Tay Bridge to Dundee, (Dundee does not have a lot going for it, but it IS improving. There is a lovely little visitor centre based on the boat used by Scott of the Antarctic, the Discovery, which is probably worth a stop. Then cut across country to Glamis Castle, reputed to be Scotland’s most haunted castle, and the place where the old Queen mum was born; then go on to Blairgowrie where you pick up the A93 to Glenshee, and down to Braemar and Deeside. Braemar Castle is worth a stop and, if you feel you have time, turn off the main road to the Linn of Dee and Mar Lodge. Back on Deeside is where Lizzie Windsor has her summer place, much beloved of American tourists. It's also in a beautiful location and therefore worth the visit. Just at Crathie, which is where you will find Balmoral, there's a sign to Royal Lochnagar distillery. (old Scottish joke- How deep is Lochnagar? Ha, ha, ha...it's a mountain!!! Well, it's funny if you're five). It's not the best whisky in the world but there's no such thing as
bad malt and it does a good tour.

Come back onto the A93 and continue east a few miles till you see signs pointing left to Tomintoul. Take that road and go over Gairn Shiel to Corgarff- which has a lovely 18th century garrison castle with a star shaped perimeter wall. Turn left towards Cockbridge and up over the Lecht to Tomintoul.

By now, you have crossed two of Scotland's highest roads, and it's not yet tea time. There's a very good whisky shop in Tomintoul (much better than the tourist trap on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh) and, incidentally, there is also a very good wood carver right next door. Depending on how much you have stopped en route, you could stay here, or go down the hill on the other side to Speyside. The Spey is Scotland’s premier salmon river and one of the heartlands of whisky making. It is on the Whisky trail. If you want to see more, almost every second distillery is open to the public. If you have a favourite, ask at one of the tourist offices if they do a tour and just go along. The Macallan is probably the best Speyside whisky, but Aberlour itself is a good second. Follow the river to Grantown then go up to Nethy Bridge on the south bank. Outside Nethy Bridge you will find Abernethy Forest and Loch Garten which is a huge nature reserve and is worth stopping at to see the Ospreys. Slightly further west is Rothiemurchus estate which has the same attributes and private visitor facilities. The Heatherbrae in Nethy Bridge is OK; and the Auchendean Lodge on the other side of the river, positively good.

Day 3, take the A9 south through Newtonmore and Kingussie. You could have a look at the huge Barracks at Kingussie which is another throwback to Jacobite days, then drive west along Loch Laggan to Spean Bridge and Fort William. Ardverikie, the big estate on Lagganside is where they film Monarch of the Glen. As you come down to the west, the range of mountains on your left, is Scotland’s highest and includes Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain.

You then follow the road to Mallaig, through stunning and changing scenery. First you will come to Glenmositon where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised the clans for the ’45. There is a small visitor centre and a memorial. The viaduct on your right here, is the one used in the Harry Potter films. Further on you pass Arisaig and the silver beaches with the Small Isles visible in the sea to your left.. between Arisaig and Morar is where they filmed the beach parts of Local Hero.

At Mallaig, take the ferry to cross to Skye. Skye is mostly scenery and cultural heritage, rather than history. Stunning mountains, lovely bays and sea lochs. I love the Hotel Eilean Iarmain, but if it’s above your budget for this bit of the trip, there are good places on Skye all over. As you are driving up the Sleat peninsula, take a left and cross the ridge, just to get the terrific panorama of the Cullins at this point.

Day 4 have a look at some of the rest of Skye- Dunvegan castle and the Fairy Flag or Flora Macdonald’s Grave and the Museum of Island Life. You can stop at the Aros centre and see the closed circuit TV of the eagles. The harbour in Portree is very picturesque. Catch the late ferry to Lochmaddy on North Uist, and settle in for the evening.

Day 5, drive up to Berneray, where Prince Charles went potato picking years ago, then just wander down through all the islands on the causeways. You have the big bird reserve at Balranald, Flora Macdonald’s birthplace, Eriskay with the Whisky Galore story. To make this bit work you have to be doing this on a day when there is a late boat back to Oban. I think that’s Thursday or Friday, but we/you would have to check this.

Day 6, having slept on the boat, you wake refreshed in Oban, and spend an hour or two shopping there (I forgot the shopping bit, oops- I’ve added in some hints; but you will have spent some days in Edinburgh and, I hope, taken the train through from there to Glasgow for the day)

The go south through Kilmartin Glen which is famous for an array of Neolithic constructions- stone circles, standing stones and henge monuments amongst others. It’s well interpreted and well worth a visit. At the south end is Dunadd, the seat of the Kings of Dalriada. Again, it’s worth climbing to the top to see if you fit the footprint in the stone. Just south of that is the Great Moor wihich is a national Nature Reserve with Crinan and its canal at the bottom of the road (actually the last time we were there the Vital Spark (Para Handy’s boat? )was in the basin at Crinan) Have lunch either at the stunningly located Crinan Hotel or go down Loch Craignish and have lunch at the Tayvallich Inn.

Then come back up to Lochgilphead and on to Inverary, which is a planned village with a great castle. Not to mention the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, which is where you should have supper.

Day 7, you head for Glasgow or Edinburgh or wherever you are leaving from, by driving over the Rest and Be Thankful and down Loch Lomond side.

sheila

This tour covers:-
food:
drink;
scenery;
architecture;
history;
museums;
culture;
pony trekking;
train travel;
some days in Edinburgh;
nights in different places


tour of Argyll including island of Islay (includes pony trekking for the hardy)
back to Edinburgh- 3 ish days.
train to Inverness then Kyle of Lochalsh-Skye

Taking in Glasgow School of Art; the Burrell Collection, the Lighthouse; the Willow tea room; the Scotia bar, an opera/ play/ jazz night; restaurants
Oban and day trip (on a boat) to Iona- what a stupid thing to say Ritchie.
Bus to Tarbet- ferry to Islay-distilleries, ancient history, pony trekking, distilleries, nature, beaches, distilleries.
Back to Edinburgh- 3 days taking in restaurants; National Museum; castle; New Town; Rose Street (pubs);National Gallery;Childhood museum; Mary King's Close; ghost tour; Botanic gardens; great shopping

Train to Inverness and then Kyle- The train line across to Skye is one of the most scenic in the world.

The skyline on Skye is also spectacular. A day or so there, off Skye on the ferry at Armadale, train back through Fort William, passing Ben Nevis- our highest mountain- through Rannoch Moor to Glasgow .

Into Glasgow- for various reasons I think a couple of days here would be a good thing.

To expand, Glasgow is Scotland’s happening place and it was also the European City of Architecture in 1999.

There is an east/ west split in Scotland which leads to intense rivalry between Edinburgh and Glasgow. Edinburgh is the ancient capital and Glasgow is the largest city. Glasgow’s fame is 19th century because of industrial grandeur and imperialism it’s often said that Scots built the Empire.

Also the industrialisation coincided with the Irish potato famine, and hundreds of thousands of Irish people came to Scotland and especially Glasgow, leading to a second split- Catholic/Protestant. Scotland had a fairly robust Reformation leaving few Catholic families here, and the arrival of hundreds of thousands into the midst of Calvinist Scotland was a shock we have not yet quite got over. It’s one of the reasons that there has never been a n IRA atrocity north of the Border- everyone in Northern Ireland is related to someone in Glasgow. It’s said that if you tell people in Glasgow that you are a Jew, you are likely to be asked if you are a Catholic Jew or a Protestant Jew. There are two main football teams which split along the same divide

So, a place to stay- Adelaide’s Guest house in Bath Street. This is a City centre conversion of a church hall, used to bring in revenue. Never stayed there myself but am told it’s very good. En Suite rooms are c £40 per person per night. If you want cheaper, we can no doubt find it. If you are coming in University vacations, the student resiidences are available at very good rates. Obviously no en suite but clean and functional. One, Baird Hall, is an A- listed (highest architectural standard in the UK) Art Deco former hotel.

Things to do- Architecture

In Glasgow you start with Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Lots of Art Nouveau buildings and other design. The best building is the Glasgow School of Art, (good from the outside but tours 11am and 2 pm(Sat 10.30am))but others include, Queen’s Cross Church, the Mackintosh House(this was his house and shows what a complete artist he was. He designed almost everything in it); Scotland Street School (now a museum of education Mon-Sat 10am-5pm Sun 2-5pm); the Willow Tearooms; Martyr’s Public School; House for an Art Lover in Bellahouston Park

The Lighthouse is the gallery established for the year of architecture.

The area from the city centre down to the river is now known as the Merchant City- lots of neo-classical 18th century stuff. West of the city centre there’s a grid of fine town houses built when the great unwashed pushed the fine folk out of the centre- lots of Georgian elegance. Another great Glasgow architect was Alexander “Greek” Thomson who worked in the second half of the 19th century. Lots of examples- fusing classical and eastern. Look at St Vincent Street Church.

The Tenement museum is owned by the National Trust. Lots of central Glasgow was 19th century tenement buildings. The lady who owned this one died about 200 years ago, and it was discovered to be untouched since about the turn of the century. It’s an absolute time capsule.

Other culture/ history

The People’s Palace- late 19th century museum of social history with it’s Winter gardens next door (10-5 daily)
The Necropolis- Based on Pere Lachaise it’s stunning ; high on a hill overlooking the City.
The Burrell Museum in Pollock Park
The Museum of Modern Art
Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery

You also need to know about the Glasgow Boys. It’s said that the Royal Scottish Academy (artists) wouldn’t take anyone from the west coast in the 19th century. A school of painting based on impressionism grew up in Glasgow around 5 painters- Guthre, Lavery, Hornel, Hnry and Crawhall in the 1870s . Best examples in Kelvingrove.

Other options

1. Shop. Glasgow is the shopping city to die for.
2. Transport Museum
3. Botanic Gardens
4. Hunterian Museum
5. Fossil Park
6. Glasgow Horror Walking Tour
7. Waverley (paddle steamer trips down the Clyde- there’s even a song about it)


Festivals- Mayfest in early May
Celtic Music Festival in January
Jazz festival- October/November

Food- For quality Glasgow’s probably better than Edinburgh
One Devonshire Gardens- “contemporary, vogueish and stylish”
The Ubiquitous Chip- in Glasgow society for serious people watching
Rogano- THE Glasgow restaurant


There are lots of others but I have restricted myself to the ones I know about. There are in addition some great Indian restaurants- the Ashoka West End (watch out there are others with similar names) and the Shish Mahal are but 2.
There are some great Chinese too. My favourite is the Loon Fung in Sauchiehall Street.

Everyone speaks to you in Glasgow- usually too much! They have a language all of their own, and no-one is admired as much as those who are “gallus” . You will find the approach every where in taxis, shops, cafes, clubs, talking to policemen, just everywhere. If you are there at the weekend, you should go to the Barrows (Barras) a market with about 1000 stalls. Don’t buy and hold onto your wallet. Go to watch and listen and have breakfast in one of the nearby caffs.

There used to be a great tradition of neighbourhood cafes, often Italian. Ones to look for/try are Coia’s in Duke Street and D’Jaconelli in Maryhill Rd.. Understand these are greasy spoons, not sought out for cuisine especially.

Glasgow is the home of the Scottish pub. They are all worth trying, but these are some of the best- definition of best here is “Glasgow”-
The Halt Bar in Woodlands Road
The Corinthian in Ingram Street
The Scotia (my favourite- folk music, writers and journalists) Stockwell Street
The Saracen’s Head (wan singer, wan song) Gallowgate
The Bon Accord- for the beer. N Street (now a slip road of the motorway)
Tennents in Byres Road


If you want folk music try the Scotia or the Clutha Vaults nearby. For a ceilidh try the Renfrew Ferry (a real ferry moored on the river. Every Friday night) or the Riverside.

Glasgow is a big city. It has everything you might like to find. Bits of it are rough, so you need to be careful about where you go late at night. The people are probably about the most friendly in the world. It has a small city centre underground known as the Clockwork Orange. (You’ll see why)

There’s a fortnightly magazine called the List, which has all the current stuff in it for Edinburgh and Glasgow. Buy it as you get off the plane.



tour of Argyll including island of Islay (includes pony trekking for the hardy). This is the public transport version.

OK; I’m setting aside three days for this bit. Given your predilection for trains, the lack of train lines might be a bit of an issue. So; day one catch the train from Glasgow Queen Street to Oban. The line runs from Glasgow, along the Clyde to Helensburgh, Rhu, up the side of Loch Gare to Garelochhead, up Loch Long past Craggan to Arrochar on the side of Loch Lomond, then up Loch Lomond to Crianlarich. It then turns west and goes through Tyndrum to Dalmally (along the bottom of Strath Orchy, which is not spectacular, but one way or another probably is one of the places I most love to travel through); then along Loch Awe-side through the Pass of Brander, along the side of Loch Etive, past Connel and down into Oban.

Oban is a pretty little market town, now the main ferry terminal for the southern islands. It has a glorious setting overlooking the Sound of Kerrera and across to Mull. It’s a bit of a tourist trap, but as a consequence has very good shopping (it also has good shopping because everyone from the islands comes in here to shop). There is a magnificent folly on the hill above, which is on every postcard. There’s masses of accommodation at every budget level. There’s a distillery which does tours, and a glass making factory. Lots of places to eat (mostly awful); but there is a place called Mctavish’s Kitchens which does a tourist show every night in summer, with dancing, a band and a piper. There’s apparently anther place, which does Celtic music called The Gathering restaurant. I don’t know it so I can’t comment. The Oban Inn on the pier is the best pub.

Next day, take the tourist steamer round Mull to Iona. It goes past Staffa- Fingal’s cave, the inspiration for the Hebridean Overture. Iona is wonderful- cradle of Christianity, beautiful beaches. The trip will take all day but it’s worth it.

Next day, take the bus to Inverary, a glorious planned village, built by the Campbell Duke of Argyll. Visit the castle and the jail (read R.L. Stevenson’s “Kidnapped” before you come) The catch the bus to Tarbet- preferably stay at the West Loch Hotel, which is out of the town, but has a stunning location. They will leave your breakfast out for you since you’re getting up very early to catch the ferry to Islay, Queen of the Hebrides.

I can’t rave enough. The place is magic. Beaches, cliffs, birds, 8 distilleries, nice restaurants, good hotels and B&Bs, tremendous scenery and the best shop in the Inner Hebrides. And I’m giving you 2 days to see it all. Or else!

Have lunch in the Croft Kitchen in Port Charlotte, and dinner in the Lochside or the Harbour in Bowmore. Have you ever had a pint of prawns? Shop in the Croft Kitchen- Roy’s in Bowmore- and the Islay Woolen Mill shop- there’s one at the Mill but one in Bowmore too.

You should see

1. The Museum of Islay Life in Port Charlotte
2. A distillery- preferably Lagavulin
3. The harbour at Portnahaven,
4. The Kildalton Cross
5. Finlaggan- the stronghold of the Lords of the Isles
6. the Round Church in Bowmore (it’s round so the devil can’t find a corner to hide in)

An alternative afternoon involves pony trekking from Kintra on Lochindaal.

There’s lots more but if you manage that you’ll be doing nae bad, as my dad would say

Stay wherever you catch the ferry next day (depending on tides the boats go into Port Askaig or Port Ellen). Then get the bus to Glasgow and the train back to Edinburgh

tour of Argyll including island of Islay (includes pony trekking for the
hardy). This is the hirecar version

OK; I’m setting aside three days for this bit. Day one drive to Kennacraig. If there is a way of doing this on a Monday, do it this way:-
Drive west of Glasgow to Dumbarton then north on to Loch Lomond-side- presumably the execrable “You’ll tak’ the high road” is a staple in the US as well as here? Don’t let it fool you, it’s still a stunning loch. You can take a boat trip if that’s your thing, or just take your time driving up the west bank as far as Arrochar. These are the first real mountains you have seen so suck in the atmosphere. “Loch Lomond at Luss” has appeared on more calendars than we have both had hot dinners, and rightly so. When you get to Arrochar, you turn left and go round the top of Loch Long. The west coast of Scotland has huge long sea inlets, which we call sea lochs. They are like mini-fjords. So to get from anywhere to anywhere takes ages. It’s why, until the war, the economy of the west coast was based on the “Puffers” little boats which went from port to port taking everything that was necessary to keep places going. The most famous was the Vital Spark, the heroine of Para Handy’s Tales by Neil Gunn- read, mark and inwardly digest, before arrival. She’s moored at Ardrishaig, (or maybe Crinan) which I’m taking you past, so have a look.

You follow the road over a high pass called the Rest and Be Thankful, and down to Cairndow at the top of Loch Fyne. Somewhere near Clachan is the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, which you must visit for a meal and to stock up on unmissable food. Loch Fyne is where “Finnan haddies” come from- essentially smoked haddock. You will see little roadside signs inviting you to purchase and should try to do something about this. The road then takes you down Loch Fyne to Inverary- see previous comments. Well worth a fairly long pause. Carry on down the loch to Lochgilphead, where I want you to take a little side turning. Go up the A918 towards Oban as far as the village of Kilmartin, then turn and come back stopping only to see…the stone circles, standing stones, chambered cairns and lots of other evidence of our prehistoric ancestors. Go to Dunadd, which is where we are supposed to have crowned the Kings of the Picts, and climb the hill and see if your feet fit the grooves in the stones. The cross the moor (a National Nature Reserve) to Crinan. There is a pretty little canal which goes the 8 miles from Crinan to Ardrishaig and a wee song which goes..
“The Crinan Canal for me
I don’t like the wild rolling sea…”

Stop at the Crinan Hotel and have afternoon tea overlooking the Atlantic. Then come back through Lochgilphead and Ardrishaig- stopping again for the Vital Spark, and on south to Tarbert. This is a lovely little fishing village with a picturesque harbour. Given that, per the previous recommendations I’m sending you out on the early ferry next morning, I suggest you stay hereabouts (West Loch Hotel, being a viable option), you may or may not want to take an evening run the 51 miles right down the Mull of Kintyre (“Mull of Kintyre; oh mist rolling in from the sea”) to Campbeltown (“Campbeltown Loch I wish you were whisky”). Or you might prefer to slob out in front of the fire with a few whiskies and enjoy the ambience.

Next morning you catch the ferry from Kennacraig to Islay and do all the stuff I said before, but with less hassle because you do not have to rely on the “Maid of Port Charlotte”. Did I mention that all the buses on Islay have names?

Next day (which, since you’re still alert, you will realise is a Wednesday) you catch the 10 am ferry to Colonsay and Oban. Just to be clear- do NOT get off in Colonsay, or you’ll be there till Friday.

Oban is as previously described. Only with a car, whilst you may not want to pay the costs of staying in the Pierhouse at Port Appin- 15 miles north of Oban, you definitely want to designate a driver and go and eat there; unless you don’t like sea-food. Last time we were there, we saw them go and get the scallops my friend ate from a bag hanging into the sea from the pier, before they cooked them for him. You don’t get fresher than that.

I’m assuming you would not want to do Mull and Iona as well (“that’s enough islands” Ed). Spend the day in Oban, eat at the Pierhouse and maybe stay in a B&B up there somewhere, then head towards Edinburgh next day by driving up through Glen Coe- the Glen of Weeping- across Rannoch Moor, through Tyndrum and Crianlarich, down to Lochearnhead, past Rob Roy country at the Braes of Balquhidder, through Callender and into Stirling- see the castle and on the last 20 miles along the Forth to Edinburgh. Linlithgow Palace, which is along the way, is also worth seeing.

The variation to this, if it’s not the exact days suggested, (the ferry only does the Oban run from Islay on a Wednesday,) is that you have to come back off onto the mainland at Kennacraig. You would miss out Kilmartin on the way down and do it on the way up.- thus definitely leaving time for Campbeltown. You might then want to go up Loch Awe-side and down into Oban through the Pass of Brander.

Back to Edinburgh- 3 days

Since Edinburgh is what gets asked about most, it’s what I’ve posted about most. 1. You need to find somewhere to stay. Edinburgh is tourist city so the choice is very widespread. Personally I go for functional. I’d pick one of the £40/per room per night Travel Lodge type places. Central and efficient. You won’t get “Character” in Edinburgh under £100/night. But the choice is huge so let’s worry about that later. Places mentioned before, however, include…

The Elmview- that is a convenient spot for seeing the sights

The Station House located three blocks away from the Royal Mile. The address is 9-13 Market Street, Edinburgh.

Quality Hotel, Edinburgh Airport, Ingliston, Edinburgh EH28 8AU, phone 0131-333-4331, fax 0131-333-4124.

The Ibis, a chain, fairly new and was about $80.00 a night for two. The hotel is in the centre of town, very convenient to most all of the sights

Check out the Howard Hotel.

Edinburgh itself is a mixture of a wonderful late mediaeval city with a planned Georgian New Town. The Castle is a must, but a brisk hike up Arthur's seat (a hill in the centre of the town above Holyrood Palace) will give you magnificent views out over the whole of east central Scotland. The Forth Rail bridge is worth driving past. The estuary of the Forth widens to superb beaches (with wonderful links golf courses behind them) and in Fife, you have St Andrew's, home of golf (the beach where they filmed the opening sequences of Chariots of Fire?). To get there you go past Loch Leven where Mary Queen of Scots was kept imprisoned on one of the islands.

The Royal Yacht Britannia is berthed at Leith, Edinburgh's port, and can be visited by the public, and the new Museum of Scotland in the centre of the City is pretty good, for the architecture as well as the exhibits.

It's also a great shopping city.

To the south you are about an hour's drive from the Borders; lovely rolling hills and some lovely stately mansions including Abbotsford which was owned by Sir Walter Scott- whose memorial is in the middle of Edinburgh's main shopping street, and which can be climbed for the view over the gardens and up to the Castle.

Mary Kings Close is a street which, in the middle ages, was on ground level but when the great plague came to visit Scotland (and Edinburgh in particular) it hit the place hard. The worst section of the city was right in the heart of the 'Old Town', where the present City Chambers are nowadays. This street was known as Mary King’s Close (after an advocate’s daughter so the story goes) and the local authorities, the kind beings that they are, decided to seal both entrances of the street up with everyone still inside. This street was rediscovered many years later and now you can take a tour down there. WARNING - they tell you that because of the many people sealed alive down there that there are ghosts aplenty. Tours can be arranged from the Royal Mile. This year saw the opening of a new visitor center based on the experience and it’s meant to be excellent

The two best places in Edinburgh for folk music are 2 pubs (surprise!). One is the Tron and the other is Sandy Bell's. Sandy Bell's also used to produce a news-sheet "Sandy Bell's Broadsheet" and I think they still do, which lists all the folky stuff going on all over Scotland.

As far as Edinburgh is concerned, I can think of another pub which houses traditional/folk music. It's the Ensign Ewart which is situated near the entrance to the Castle - can't miss it.

Another possibility is to take your car up to the northwestern suburbs. In Davidson's Mains there is a baronial (i.e., circa 1895 but looking very medieval) house called Lauriston Castle. The tours are great, as this "castle" has secret passageways, a library bookshelf that hides a secret door, etc. From Davidson's Mains it is a very short (7-8 minutes)drive to Cramond, which has a yachtsman's harbor, the mouth of the River Almond, a medieval church (Cramond Kirk) and the remains (in the churchyard!) of Rome's northernmost garrison fort.

A list of things to see includes
The New Town-planned grid Georgian -makes Bath pale by comparison
The Royal Mile -Medieval route between the Castle and Holyrood palace
The Castle
Valvona and Crolla -best deli in the UK
Greyfriars Bobby - statue of dog who sat at his master’s grave for decades
The Meadows - huge park I the town centre
Dean Village - working men’s planned village
The Scott Monument -Gothic Sky rocket memorial to Queen Victoria’s favourite Scottish author
Calton Hill -Observatory
Arthur's Seat -see above
Hollyrood- Palace and Park - Queen’s Scottish town house and big garden
The New parliament - this trip can be arranged. There is a visitor's gallery at the Scottish parliament and you can get tickets from (would you believe) the ticket office! There is no dress code.
The Museum of Childhood - on the Royal Mile
Cafe Vittoria - neighbourhood Tally restaurant. Very down to earth.
St Giles Cathedral - on the Mile. Scene of Jenny what’shername’s tantrum. Crown tower
Parliament House - where the big wigs hang out (what a terrible pun)
Make sure you visit the National Museum of Scotland (Chambers St) in Edinburgh. It just opened and is incredible.
Gladstone’s Land, -mediaeval close off the High Street(the Mile)

Plus there are great restaurants, pubs, gardens and parks. My favorite restaurant is The Marque. It is on Causewayside and the food is fantastic. The prices were quite reasonable considering the level of cuisine (about $35.00 per person including dessert). There’s now a Marque Central in Grindlay Street. If it's atmosphere you like try The Witchery. The prices are a little steep, but the food is good and it's right beside the castle. (as far as atmosphere, the name says it all). Rogue in Morrison Street is also excellent.

Other great restaurants include Stac Polly , Café Hub, Browns, Le Sept, Est Est Est, Bann’s, Henderson’s, the Kalpna, Viva Mexico, Shamiana, the Siam Erewan,.

Other great pubs include the Café Royal, the Barony, Mathers, the Diggers (posh name the Athletic Arms), the Roseburn, Bert’s, and the Abbotsford.

This is a city heaving with museums. I believe I have mentioned the National Museum of Scotland and the Museum of Childhood. In addition there are:-
The National Gallery and Royal Scottish Academy
the National Portrait Gallery
The Gallery of Modern Art
The Dean Gallery
The Georgian House
The City Art Centre
The Fruitmarket Gallery,
The Collective Gallery
The Printmakers’ Workshop

Or you can go to the Zoo; Dynamic Earth(mixed reviews- haven’t been myself), or the Botanic Gardens.

It’s awash with places to walk, sporting facilities, cinemas, theatres, music venues, and stunning architecture.

OK- final instalment and I’ve left 4-5days for this bit.

Take the train in the morning- no need for crack of dawn but don’t let too much time pass either- to Inverness. The train goes to Stirling, then Perth, then up through Dunkeld, Pitlochry and Aviemore To Inverness and takes about 3 hours. You pass through the most spectacular scenery- past the fertile agriculture of lowland Perthshire into first rolling mountains, then spectacular ones. As you come into the valley of the Spey, having crossed the Highland line, you have the Monaliadh mountains on the left and the Cairngorms on the right. Inverness is a total dive. Apart from its location at the mouth of the Ness- a short river which goes between Loch Ness and the Moray Firth- I’ve never understood the attraction. It’s a town with no history to speak of, and with little or no architectural merit. So my advice would be not to waste your time by leaving the station. But if you MUST, then walk down to the river and, with a copy of the “Prophesies of the Brahan seer” open in front of you, count the bridges over the river.

Then get back on the train to Kyle of Lochalsh. The route goes north past Dingwall to Garve then the track splits with one bit going on northwards to Wick and Thurso, a short step from John O’ Groats, the most northerly point on the mainland. Definitely worth a side tour if you have a day in hand. If not take the route west to Achnasheen, Strath Carron and, eventually, Kyle of Lochalsh. Kyle is where the ferry used to go to Skye from, before they built the bridge. It’s about 8 miles north of Eilean Donan, Scotland’s most photographed castle. If we can find a way of doing it by public transport, this is worth a detour. Then cross the bridge to Skye. About 20 miles on you come to the edge of the Cuillin ridge. There are two ranges of mountains on Skye- the Black Cuillin and the Red Cuillin. Now I know you have the Rockies and the Adirondacks and stuff like that, but I challenge you not to be impressed. There is a hotel at the bottom of Glen Brittle, called the Sligachan, which does reasonably priced accommodation and has a sort of hotel bit and then a huge extension which is basically for climbers and campers. There’s usually live music and good crack. Given your budgets I would suggest the Slig or go on into Portree, the island capital. The Rosedale on the harbour is quite good, at about the same price. If you want night of very good but with character, try the Isle Ornsay down the Sleat peninsula.

There are a couple of companies which do day trips round the island in minibuses. I would suggest that’s what you do the next day. If you want to stay another day go up to Elgol and take one of the sealwatching boat trips- then you can walk up to Loch Coruisk- it’s a short walk, honest- have a picnic if the weather’s fine, then get the boat back.

Outside Portree, the big issue will be how do you get about, but assuming we can beat that query, then there are some great places to eat. The Three Chimneys at Dunvegan has a tremendous name for food, and Kinloch Lodge is terrific, tho’ for various reasons it’s hard to recommend.. There’s the Harbour View in Portree, Isle Ornsay again, and the Lower Deck, also in Portree. The Sligachan is OK too

Views to see:- Raasay, the Qiraing, the Old Man of Storr, Dunvegan Castle, the waterfalls at Eas Mor, and the Fairy Pools.

There are three ceilidhs run regularly:- Skye Scene, Monday Tuesday (and Wednesday(midsummer only)) Ceol is Cnac on Thursdays and Fridays (both in Portree) and Flodigarry Hotel does one on Saturdays

Then get the bus down to Armadale, and catch the ferry to Mallaig on the mainland. Get the train back following the West Highland line to Fort William, passing Ben Nevis- our highest mountain- through Rannoch Moor, then down to Glasgow to catch the flight out.

As with Islay, you’d be better with your own transport on Skye, but it’s not impossible without.

A reading list would include:-

Fiction
Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Kidnapped” (and “Catriona”)
Any of Ian Rankin’s Rebus books
Neil Munro’s “Tales of Para Handy”
Lewis Grassick Gibbon’s “Scot’s Quair”
John Buchan’s “39 Steps”
William McIlvanney’s “Docherty”
Muriel Spark’s “The Pride of Miss Jean Brodie”
Naomi Mitchison’s “The Bull Calves”

Non- Fiction
Boswell and Johnston’s “Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides”
Bill Bryson’s “Notes from a Small Island”
Scotland’s Story


Poetry
Burns
Any modern anthology

PatrickLondon

I'd add Adam Nicolson's Sea Room to the reading list - a very readable account of the history of a couple of tiny islands he inherited.

Jaden

Steviegene: (have a wonderful time and please, please post pictures. I wish I was going in a few days)!!

Sheila: you are my hero and you don’t know how much I appreciate the in depth information and suggestions. As I read your post I commented out loud, “What and angel”….and you truly are.

Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences!

LCBoniti

Sheila -
This is fantastic! I'm saving it for my trip in 2008.

Thanks!

noe847

Wow, Sheila. I am saving the link to this post for when we plan our next Scotland trip.

doonhamer

Jings, Sheila! Hae ye got a jobbie wi' the Tourist Board?

caroline_edinburgh

Wow Sheila, I think I'd better save this too ! I tip my hat in awe.

Just a few updates on Edinburgh restaurants (food being my favourite subject .

The Marque on Causewayside is no longer there. The Marque on Grindlay Street was still there when I passed by last week, but I've been told it's moving to George IV Bridge (possibly to the old Dial premises) at some point. Rogue no longer exists.

I also like La Partenope (fantastic southern Italian seafood); La Garrigue (lovely French rustic cooking, specifically that of the Languedoc, charming chef/patron & good view of Calton Hill from the front tables); Centotre (busy buzzy Italian caffe-bar on George Street, everything from coffee & cannolo, to cocktails, to a quick bowl of pasta or pizza (best in town IMO) to a full slap-up 4 course Italian meal; the Shore (pub/restaurant on the waterside in the old docks area of Leith).

Nikki

Unbelievable. Now I guess I have to add Scotland to the list. Saving this to a file just in case.

sheila

Ummm; your kind words are gratefully received.

I've done a number of these over the years and once I realised that "you" all ask the same questions, I started to save them. I have a couple of dozen

chb

Shiela,

Wow your travel description is such a gift. My husband and I are leaving for a 3 week trip to Scotland in a few days. I have been lurking on the boards for quite sometime gathering all the information that I could find.
I did post a few early questions last spring but for the most part I have just been reading.
So we are ready and will be taking a copy of your wonderful Scotland travel ideas. Very Grateful to you.
chb