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Old May 15th, 2003, 07:35 AM
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Scotland - Logistics - Need Advice!

Before anything else - G'Bless this community, I don't go anywhere these days without the expert advice from Fodorites!

We are planning 10 days in late June of mostly Western Islands & Highlands with a car.

Current idea:
Day 1 Trossachs/Lomond
Day 2-3 Mull/Iona/Treshnish
Day 4-5 Skye
Day 6-7 Inverness-shire/Caingorms
Day 8-9 Edinburgh/Glasgow
Day 10 Home from GLA

We're looking for:
1) 3&4 Star 'fabulous' B&Bs (or any fabulous lodging)
2) Resources/suggestions for island logistics (stay on Mull vs. mainland, when to ferry, whether to leave the car at any point)
3) Great activities, specifically boating, hiking & wildlife on Mull & Skye
4) Jacobite Train vs. Same route in the car

We have so many logistical questions! But, we've read most of the postings and are trying to 'get out' into a certain areas and focus, rather than overdoing, etc.

We are excited to hear everyone's thoughts and suggestions!
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Old May 15th, 2003, 08:10 AM
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Start with the Scottish Tourist Board's website at http://www.visitscotland.com/ and/or the Automobile Association's website at http://www.theaa.com/getaway/index.html

You should be able to link to many sites for info on logistics and all that.
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Old May 15th, 2003, 10:23 AM
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Thanks for the AA site, we've used visitscotland.com and about 100 others so far... the problem almost seems like there are too many resources - it's hard to pick out the gems. Though I'm sure there are countless options, we're looking for real 'finds'.

Another challenge seems to be grouping things... most everything seems so close on the map but we don't want to rush just to cover ground. We're trying to pay attention every time Janis and Sheila say 'too much'! But it's hard when you haven't been before.

Cheers.
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Old May 15th, 2003, 11:10 AM
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leigh: Your itinerary looks pretty good. You will love the west coast and isles.

For the Mull/Iona/Treshnish (and I'd add Staffa) bit, it would probably be best to stay on Mull.

You can get an Island Rover ticket from Caledonian MacBrayne (calmac.co.uk) which covers you and the car for three ferry trips - Oban > Mull, Mull > the Morvern Penninsula, and Mallaig > Skye. it is a good money saver and you really do need the car to be able to see much on a short visit.

The Jacobite train is wonderful - but it is a full day journey R-T and if you only go one way you wouldn't have your car. can't really see a practical way to pull it off (you'd need another day or two in Scotland to make it work)

But not to worry - the drive is also Fabulous.

So take an early AM ferry to Mull, stay on the island 2 days and see Duart, Iona, Staffa, the Treshnish, Calgary Bay and a few other things.

Then ferry to Morvern, drive across - very nice scenery - and then take a mid morning ferry over to Skye for your two days there.

Then Leave Skye by way of the bridge so you are not backtracking and will see all new country.

Depending on what time your flight out is - you could spend 2 days in Edinburgh since it is a short drive (or bus or train journey) to Glasgow Airport.
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Old May 15th, 2003, 11:15 AM
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In the Trossachs...look into The Forth Inn in Aberfoyl-wonderful place. In Edinburgh...16 Lynedoch Place (both the address and the name of the B&B)-really lovely.

http://www.ghd35.dial.pipex.com/
is The Forth Inn's home page.

http://www.16lynedochplace.co.uk
the other.
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Old May 15th, 2003, 01:18 PM
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Leigh. I'm clearly failing. I try so hard not to say "too much". But....

Day 1 Trossachs/Lomond
Day 2-3 Mull/Iona/Treshnish
Day 4-5 Skye
Day 6-7 Inverness-shire/Caingorms
Day 8-9 Edinburgh/Glasgow
Day 10 Home from GLA

It's a fine itinerary.

please can I have a definition of fabulous? And a budget?

see, I would love a night at the Drover's Inn; but that wouldn't be everyone's idea of fabulous. So, what are you looking for; and at what price?

I'm not a huge fan of Mull, so to accommodate your days therabouts, I'd be inclined to suggest a drive through Mull to take the ferry to Iona and stay the night (Argyll Hotel, I think)

I supect you could come back the western route past the Treshnish (tho' maybe not by car ferry. I'll check). If you fine somewhere nice to stay on the Treshnish, do let us know. The puffins speak well of it.


OK I checked. You can leave your car on the mainland and get a ferry, bus ferry trip to Iona. You can't take your car onto Iona anyway. If you did that you could get a "trip" boat back to Oban round the outside of Mull- or of course, you could do that the other way around.

Seal trips from Elgol are pretty good. How good's your "hiking"? If you're fit why not have ago at the Cullins at Bruaich na Frith? or at Blaven. If you're not, don't think of it; but there are walks by the pound on Skye, and to a lesser extent on Mull.

the jacobite train is great fun. You don't have to drive along a pretty awaful road, and you get to cross the Glenfinnan viaduct, just like Harry Potter.

tell us more of your plans


We're looking for:
1) 3&4 Star 'fabulous' B&Bs (or any fabulous lodging)
2) Resources/suggestions for island logistics (stay on Mull vs. mainland, when to ferry, whether to leave the car at any point)
3) Great activities, specifically boating, hiking & wildlife on Mull & Skye
4) Jacobite Train vs. Same route in the car


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Old May 15th, 2003, 01:29 PM
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Sheila has given you some good info - but as she says, she is not a fan of Mull. I am and have been there several times.

The ferry/bus/ferry plan for Mull is not the best. It leaves you no flexibility to see the island. I would stay in Fionnphort for your two nights. Then you can go over to Iona for 1/2 a day or however long you want and spend the rest of the day touring around the island. Then you can take a boat right from the Fionnphort pier out to the Treshnish islands - either a landing trip or just sail around them. The Puffins are wonderful. You can also take a 3 hour trip from Fionnphort to Staffa. You would have about 2 hours on the island to explore and go into Fingal's Cave.

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Old May 15th, 2003, 01:41 PM
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Hey!!

I've been there on the odd occasion too, y'know???

I love Iona; and the Treshnish; and Staffa. And indeed Tobermory. But the rest of Mull.....?

If you don't want to see Mull, not having the flexibility to do so is really nice; and seeing Iona without the tourists is top (they're all day-trippers, you see.)
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Old Jun 3rd, 2003, 01:36 PM
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Hello - getting closer on the planning. We're focused on accommodations now: mostly small B&Bs. We've got 2 days on Skye with no placement. The Rosedale is recommended, but fairly pricey - is it worth it? And, nothing yet planned for the bit around Inverness-shire.

Day 1 Trossachs/Lomond - Drovers Inn (thanks Sheila)
Day 2-3 Mull/Iona/Treshnish- one night in Fionnhport second in Tobermory
Day 4-5 Skye - nothing yet
Day 6-7 Inverness-shire/Caingorms nothing yet
Day 8-9 Edinburgh/Glasgow - staying with friends
Day 10 Home from GLA

Also, we're looking now for specific places for great local music and/or festivals. We're disappointed to miss the festival in Portree in early July, but we just can't fit it in!

Looking forward to your thoughts.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2003, 02:06 PM
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We stayed at the Flodigarry in Staffin on Skye. Loved it. Flora MacDonald's cottage is on the property. Have a look at www.flodigarry.com.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2003, 03:24 PM
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I don't myself thik the Rosedale is dear for the location and amenities; but you will get lots of cheaper places in the many B&Bs round the edge of the town. I just don't know any.

If you're serious about Cairngorms try either the Osprey in Kingussie or the Heatherbrae in Nethy Bridge Inverness-shire/Caingorms nothing yet
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 05:17 AM
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When you say 'serious about Cairngorms' do you mean serious about hiking? Cause we're not and we'll likely be pretty pooped after all the trekking in the islands. We're just looking for a 2-night mainland base for driving to sights and maybe some bicycling (we looked at the Chapelton Steading -- it was lovely but booked). So I guess a good central base for Inverness-shire/Ness/Aviemore/Cairngorms is the more important factor. Pricewise for B&Bs, we seem to be doing well at about 20-25 pppn.
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 07:08 AM
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I guess what I meant was serious about being there and not just seeing them from a distance.

Have a look at the ones I've suggested?
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 07:18 AM
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Sheila,

Perhaps you should have 'mulled' over your "not a huge fan" comment a little longer and you'd have heard the hammer being pulled back . . .
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 07:31 AM
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Snoopy - Get Off it! I never slammed Sheila. I merely said that Sheila is not a big fan of Mull. A FACT she has mentioned several times herself. I said I am a fan and have visited several times only so Leigh would know I might have some useful ideas re Mull. IN NO WAY DID I ATTACK SHEILA - OK?????

sheesh
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 08:53 AM
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I nearly didn't put anything up but.... I DID read that, when you posted it, janis, as "what does she know, she hasn't been there". Since I know you know that is not the case, I assumed that tone was not the one you intended and said nothing.

But you do it quite a lot, you know? To others as well as to me.
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 10:51 AM
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janis;

From your response, I'd say we've both entered the contest for "most touchy!"

I directed a pun toward Sheila and a comment at your expense based on Sheila's response . . . not necessarily as an observation that your comment was untoward.
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 03:53 PM
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Sheila - I never even had such a thought. I have re-read my post several times and don't see any insult - or even how one could be inferred.

To me "Sheila has given you some good info - but as she says, she is not a fan of Mull. I am and have been there several times." meant that you gave some some great suggestions but since you are not a (self-confessed) big fan of Mull maybe I can help since I have been there several times.

What did you read in it?

The only reasom I added "I have been there several times" was so Leigh wouldn't think I was someone who hadn't been there and do know a little what I'm talking about.
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Old Jun 6th, 2003, 10:37 AM
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Okay, okay, first of all, let me add my two sense, and say that both Sheila and Janis gave me the best advice in the world last year in planning my trip to Scotland, and I think they're both the best! I am still so grateful for you two!

Leigh, I tried to e-mail you, but it seemed to disappear, so if this is a repeat, oh, well.

I wanted to suggest a few places to stay up past Tobermory. One is the Calgary Farmhouse Hotel, which we loved -- wonderful "art in nature" hike that leads to Calgary Bay, which is just awash in poignant history. And, a friend of mine stayed at Glengorm Castle, and said it was the most wonderful place ever.

We rode the ferry to Craignure, rented a car, drove to Tobermory, ate lunch (get there before 2:00!), then drove on to Calgary Farmhouse for one night. Be sure and drive past it a ways for some of the most breathtaking cliff/sea scenery ever (reminded us of the Big Sur Coastline). The next morning, after breakfast, we drove around the island a ways, then cut across to Craignure, turned in the car, and took a bus to Fionnphort, then a ferry to Iona.

I would suggest staying on Iona instead of Fionnphort. It's the most remarkable place, with several turquoise beaches that are just perfect (too cold to swim, though). We stayed with the Iona Community, so don't have any hotel recommendations, but I think that my friend stayed at the Argyll (?). We took the boat to Staffa from Iona, and enjoyed it. (Do you get seasick? Wear your wristbands! Eat your ginger!)

Keep in mind that it doesn't get dark till about 10:00 or 11:00 p.m., so you can hike, etc. till late.

My last suggestion is to stay at the Barcaldine Castle north of Oban. It's small, and felt so authentic. You could shop and eat in Oban in the afternoon, and then have a quiet night at the Barcaldine.

Happy travels,

Cindy
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Old Jun 10th, 2003, 08:35 AM
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Okay, hypothetical question... if I've got 2 full days between Skye and and Edinburgh, is Aviemore the best option? We've been planning on Inverness-shire/Caingorms & looked at some great places in Kingussie and Boat of Garten, but I'm not getting my socks knocked off in terms of this being a 'must-see' destination. But what could we do instead? Back to Oban/Ft. Wm? How about south into Pitlochry? Could I please get feedback on what might be interesting? Thanks as always...
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