Scandinavia Trip in Progress: Copenhagen, Stockholm, Oslo and the Western Fjords
#101
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#103
Unbelievably beautiful! I second and third the others, with the "wow, wow, wow"! And the other superlatives! You two do know how to travel -- and travel well!! I adore the photo of the 2 of you at the Fjaerland Fjordstove Hotel - you both look great, and that backdrop is stunning!
Are there any favorite places? I would love to visit at least some of the region, but would probably prefer to stay longer in fewer places and not drive as extensively as you do.
Are there any favorite places? I would love to visit at least some of the region, but would probably prefer to stay longer in fewer places and not drive as extensively as you do.
#106
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Before leaving Geiranger the next morning, we did a little exploring. There is a nearly 4km path from the fjord to a waterfall above the hotel, and a series of metal stairs and raised paths wind their way through the mist. So we had fun failing the impossible task of trying not to get wet.
My intention for the end of the trip was to have a couple easier days with less driving and more down time. We started with a return to Hellesylt on the same ferry we had taken the day before. Originally, this would have been the only time we would have taken it, but the detour of the day before worked to our advantage, since today it poured rain the entire way back, and we contented ourselves with enjoying what we could see through water-spotted windows from inside the boat.
I’m fortunate that when I plan these trips, Sam never really asks for the details, so I was excited to surprise him at our next stop, the Juvet Landscape Hotel. We are both fans of mid-20th century architecture, and I knew the clean simple lines of our cabin would appeal to him. While this may have been meant to be a surprise for him, we were both blown away by the floor to ceiling view when we walked into our cabin. With the river rushing by a few feet below us, and the snow capped mountains above it, it was truly breathtaking.
The room itself was not luxurious, but rather simple and clean, so as to not distract from the view. The bed was tightly wedged into an alcove, hemmed in on three sides, so that you had to crawl out from the foot of the bed. The small, bright yellow bathroom was about 3 x 6 ft (1m x 2m), and the shower, toilet and sink all share the same space. We made a point not to shower until right before we left the next morning so as to not have to walk across the wet floor. But despite all this, our stay there was my favorite 20 hours of the trip.
The property itself was stunning, with gorgeous views in every direction, and attractive outbuildings dotted the hillsides, with places to perch and relax and enjoy the view from a different angle. There was also a building with a steam room, a quiet relaxation area, and an outdoor hot tub. We spent an enjoyable hour using the facilities and chatting with a couple from Oslo whose children had bought them a two night stay there as a gift. An hour later, we watched with amusement from our room as two Norwegian couples repeatedly jumped from the hot tub, ran down the hill and jumped in the ice-cold, glacier-fed river and back again. I had dipped my toes in the river earlier, and it wasn’t so much cold as it was just instant pain. Total body immersion was definitely a hard pass for me.
In the evening, dinner was served in the old barn, and the guests from the 10 cabins had assigned seats at the communal table. We were sat opposite another Norwegian couple (all of whom speak impeccable English, of course) and we laughed over things like American and Scandinavian stereotypes, (and even gingerly ventured into politics).
By this point in the year, it doesn’t get completely dark at night this far north; it’s more like an 8 hour twilight. So, back at our room after dinner, we just stared out the windows , transfixed by the eerie, unreal, magical view, and we were very thankful for how fortunate we were, to be able to experience such a special place.
View with a room
Our cabin
A few cabins and the barn
Our view
Sam by the hot tub
Nice place for a conference room
A quiet spot to sit and appreciate the view
Walking around the Juvet grounds
Walking around the Juvet grounds
Walking around the Juvet grounds
Crazy people in the freezing river
I liked this little rock island
That view again
Juvet Landscape hotel, never has a name been more right
My intention for the end of the trip was to have a couple easier days with less driving and more down time. We started with a return to Hellesylt on the same ferry we had taken the day before. Originally, this would have been the only time we would have taken it, but the detour of the day before worked to our advantage, since today it poured rain the entire way back, and we contented ourselves with enjoying what we could see through water-spotted windows from inside the boat.
I’m fortunate that when I plan these trips, Sam never really asks for the details, so I was excited to surprise him at our next stop, the Juvet Landscape Hotel. We are both fans of mid-20th century architecture, and I knew the clean simple lines of our cabin would appeal to him. While this may have been meant to be a surprise for him, we were both blown away by the floor to ceiling view when we walked into our cabin. With the river rushing by a few feet below us, and the snow capped mountains above it, it was truly breathtaking.
The room itself was not luxurious, but rather simple and clean, so as to not distract from the view. The bed was tightly wedged into an alcove, hemmed in on three sides, so that you had to crawl out from the foot of the bed. The small, bright yellow bathroom was about 3 x 6 ft (1m x 2m), and the shower, toilet and sink all share the same space. We made a point not to shower until right before we left the next morning so as to not have to walk across the wet floor. But despite all this, our stay there was my favorite 20 hours of the trip.
The property itself was stunning, with gorgeous views in every direction, and attractive outbuildings dotted the hillsides, with places to perch and relax and enjoy the view from a different angle. There was also a building with a steam room, a quiet relaxation area, and an outdoor hot tub. We spent an enjoyable hour using the facilities and chatting with a couple from Oslo whose children had bought them a two night stay there as a gift. An hour later, we watched with amusement from our room as two Norwegian couples repeatedly jumped from the hot tub, ran down the hill and jumped in the ice-cold, glacier-fed river and back again. I had dipped my toes in the river earlier, and it wasn’t so much cold as it was just instant pain. Total body immersion was definitely a hard pass for me.
In the evening, dinner was served in the old barn, and the guests from the 10 cabins had assigned seats at the communal table. We were sat opposite another Norwegian couple (all of whom speak impeccable English, of course) and we laughed over things like American and Scandinavian stereotypes, (and even gingerly ventured into politics).
By this point in the year, it doesn’t get completely dark at night this far north; it’s more like an 8 hour twilight. So, back at our room after dinner, we just stared out the windows , transfixed by the eerie, unreal, magical view, and we were very thankful for how fortunate we were, to be able to experience such a special place.
View with a room
Our cabin
A few cabins and the barn
Our view
Sam by the hot tub
Nice place for a conference room
A quiet spot to sit and appreciate the view
Walking around the Juvet grounds
Walking around the Juvet grounds
Walking around the Juvet grounds
Crazy people in the freezing river
I liked this little rock island
That view again
Juvet Landscape hotel, never has a name been more right
Last edited by russ_in_LA; Jun 4th, 2022 at 01:30 PM.
#113
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#114
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Our plan for less driving during our final days was thwarted once again the next morning, this time by the still closed Trollstigen mountain road, the engineering marvel famous for its multiple switch-backs and steep ascent. I was hoping that we could have at least driven to the viewpoint and then turned around, but no go. It seems that the road itself was damaged during a late spring avalanche, so it will be opening later than usual this year. We couldn’t complain about this too much, because the two hour detour that we had to replace it with was still incredibly beautiful.
Our goal was to be in Åndalsnes by noon in order to take the Romsdalsgondolen cable car to our lunch destination at Eggen, the restaurant at the top. Although we had experienced some stunning views the previous few days, the view from there, up the valley toward Trollstigen, might possibly be my favorite of the trip. With lush, green valleys below, and stark, snow covered peaks above, it was as if someone had taken the Italian Dolomites and smashed them down on the Hawaiian islands.
After lunch, we strolled around some of the mountain trails, before descending for an hour long drive to our last (and most comfortable) lodging, the Storfjord Hotel, located on the fjord of the same name. After 19 days in Scandinavia, 11 of those in Norway, we were very happy to sit and do nothing besides enjoy one last perfect view.
On the road to Åndalsnes
On the road to Åndalsnes
On the road to Åndalsnes
On the road to Åndalsnes
Cable car to the top
Eggen Restaurant
Spectacular views from Eggen
Possibly my favorite view of the trip
Troll’s Wall, Åndalsnes
View from Storfjord Hotel
Storfjord Hotel, I love the sod roofs
Charming Dining Room
One of many cozy nooks in which to relax, read a book or have a drink.
Storfjord view
Our goal was to be in Åndalsnes by noon in order to take the Romsdalsgondolen cable car to our lunch destination at Eggen, the restaurant at the top. Although we had experienced some stunning views the previous few days, the view from there, up the valley toward Trollstigen, might possibly be my favorite of the trip. With lush, green valleys below, and stark, snow covered peaks above, it was as if someone had taken the Italian Dolomites and smashed them down on the Hawaiian islands.
After lunch, we strolled around some of the mountain trails, before descending for an hour long drive to our last (and most comfortable) lodging, the Storfjord Hotel, located on the fjord of the same name. After 19 days in Scandinavia, 11 of those in Norway, we were very happy to sit and do nothing besides enjoy one last perfect view.
On the road to Åndalsnes
On the road to Åndalsnes
On the road to Åndalsnes
On the road to Åndalsnes
Cable car to the top
Eggen Restaurant
Spectacular views from Eggen
Possibly my favorite view of the trip
Troll’s Wall, Åndalsnes
View from Storfjord Hotel
Storfjord Hotel, I love the sod roofs
Charming Dining Room
One of many cozy nooks in which to relax, read a book or have a drink.
Storfjord view
Last edited by russ_in_LA; Jun 5th, 2022 at 07:03 AM.
#115
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I've been following along your beautiful photos and just wanted to tell you how much I've enjoyed your report. I had a very similar trip (the places you went plus Helsinki) scheduled for....June 2020. Guess what happened to that trip? Since then we've put 14,000 miles on the car driving all over the west USA.
The reason for my comment now is that the last hotel prompted me to observe we had reserved almost all the same hotels in Norway you did! Even the one where the Queen kicked you out. Sounds like we chose well. Hoping to try to recreate it next year.
Kudos and thanks again from a northern Californian.
The reason for my comment now is that the last hotel prompted me to observe we had reserved almost all the same hotels in Norway you did! Even the one where the Queen kicked you out. Sounds like we chose well. Hoping to try to recreate it next year.
Kudos and thanks again from a northern Californian.