The area along the Elbe River south of Dresden is dubbed Saxon Switzerland (Sachsische Schweiz) and to me is one of Europe's most overlooked areas. Its sheer beauty rivals practically any river valley in Europe - and in a compact area there are an inordinate number of interesting places to linger.
Heading out of Dresden you could stop by the famous Pillnitz Palace but the river remains ho-hum workaday until it hits Pirna, an ancient town but today with little to make a long stop - but after Pirna the valley takes on a captivating look - sheer sandstone cliffs pop up - oft rising several hundred feet above the river - their reddish hue gives the area a unique look - and there are fantastically shaped rock formations - table-top shaped outcropping of rocks with pillars soaring hundreds of feet into the sky. In all some most rare geological formations.
But it's not just nature that captivates - it's also the castles and resort towns like Bad Schandau that also please. The Bastei rates three Michelin stars - this is a magnificent viewpoint 656 feet above the Elbe that is built on top of pillars which bridges spanning deep gulfs in between them. The Konigstein Fortress crowns a 1,181-foot cliff on a sweeping bend in the Elbe. The forbiddingly situated fort, built between the 13th and 16th centuries to dominate traffic on the Elbe far below, has housed many famous prisoners, right up until WWII - very few escaped.
Bad Schandau is a sweet resort town just a few miles from the Czech border is the region's tourist center. From it a quaint old tram plies a scenic route up the Kirnitzsch Valley, also featuring sheer cliffs. This is also a popular walking path and there are many walks in the Bad Schandau area.
Even if not going by car, the Dresden-Prague train line goes right thru the valley and you can see the Bastei, Koningstein, etc. from the train. In season there are also boats that ply the valley - use them to do a whole day's visit as they stop at or near the main sights.
The valley is a popular German tourist area - for years however it was under the control of the DDR and few westerners came here. Guidebooks still often give it short shrift.
Have you been here and what do you think?


So a few days in Saxon Switzerland may well be fun.

I agree 100% about taking a side trip to the Sachsishe Schweiz when in or around Dresden. I've taken several different day trips, either to Koenigstein or hiking in the hills and thoroughly enjoyed each of my trips. Each of my hiking trips was led by friends from Saxony, but I believe we took the local train to the last stop in Germany, ferried across the river and hiked in the region right next to the Czech border.

This area is definitely better explored in the summmer, when you can enjoy being outside.

My only trip to Koenigstein was mid fall on a cool, damp foggy day. Still a very impressive fortress (never conquered in more than 1000yrs I believe is the story), definitely better on a clear day.

J62 - Isn't this the most marvelous region that gets nearly no ink in guidebooks - never seen it mentioned in my several years on Fodors! thanks for the comments.

Thank YOU, Bob, for mentioning! If not getting ink in the guide books it gets a thread on Fodors now! Wow!

I assume you know that I live in the area (Dresden). I have spent hundreds of days hiking in Saxon Switzerland during the months of May-Oct. It is in fact a marvellous region, declared National Park in 1990.

You described the natural wonders excellent - better than I ever could. Please let me add that there are more picturesque villages and small towns worth a visit in the area. Just to name a few: Hohnstein, with timber framed houses and a castle, sitting on a steep rock above a narrow valley, Hinterhermsdorf, with plenty of timber-framed houses in a special local style, Mittelndorf, a farmer's village with old houses and gorgeous panoramic views ...

And not to forget is that the region inspired countless writers, painters etc. It is a major place of German Romanticism: Caspar David Friedrich, Carl-Gustav Carus, Ludwig Richter went there and created wonderful paintings, to see in Dresden's famous picture gallery or elsewhere.

Robert Sterl, a famous German Impressionist, lived and worked in Naunhof (south of Pirna) where you can visit his almost untouched house and atelier.

Carl-Maria von Weber was inspired by the gorges and rocky patches for his opera "Der Freischütz" (the first "German" opera), one scene playing in a gorge below the Bastei - exactly where nowadays a fantastic open-air theatre is located (and well frequented by locals) where this opera is performed often.

Richard Wagner was inspired by this landscape as well, composing in a house near Pirna (Graupa, museum).

The most romantic transportation system are the (partly more than 100 years old) paddle steamers, operating from Dresden upstream - atmosphere like in the 19th century. More and more folks use the bike routes to both sides of the river, though ...

The rocky patches are - what is quite unknown - the birthplace of free climbing. This dates back to the 19th century too - and the reason was not to do any damage to the relatively soft sandstone.

The towns and villages to both sides of the Elbe river were severely damaged in 2002 by the huge flood, but experienced an unbelievable solidarity from all over Germany and even foreign countries. Everything has been restored and looks nicer than before.

Thanks again for starting this thread!

Ingo

Ingo - thanks for detailing all this - i have only an ephemeral knowledge of the area, just passing thru it and spending a day there. Now i want to go back and check out some of the towns you highlight. Danke!

I'm dazzled. So, ok, guys, what are the train and bus connections like? Is there a good pass? J.

jmw,

public transportation is excellent. The suburban railway S1 runs every 30 minutes from (Meissen-Dresden-) Pirna along the Elbe river through the main valley to Schöna on the Czech border. Every little village/town in the valley has its own railway station.

Buses run even to the most remote villages and hiking/viewing places.

Several passes are available for the public transportation network - dirty cheap! A day ticket is less than 10 Euro, a weekly ticket comes to 35.50 Euro incl. zone of the city Dresden - reductions for seniors and families.

In addition there are (a bit more expensive, not included in the network) historical buses operating on several routes, connecting the touristy places.



I.

After spending three weeks driving and hiking in this area this last summer I thoroughly endorse everything that has been said about it. It is very much a forgotten jewel of German tourism, and has prices to match.

Harzer

Thanks for the rail info, Ingo. It sounds just fine. Three years till I can retire. The question is will I have enough funds to travel more often than now. I hope I hope I hope. J.