San Sebastian in August
Jun 22nd, 2011, 06:02 AM
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San Sebastian in August
Hello everybody!
My fiance and I will be spending a week in San Sebastian for our honeymoon the first week of August, after spending a week in Paris. For those of you who have been to SS, I have 2 questions! First, I know that SS is known for being a rainy place, but we are hoping to get at least one or two beach days (or at least a couple hours anyway). I was curious if anyone could share info on beach protocol there. For example, is it acceptable to walk from your hotel to the beach in a bathing suit and cover up? Is it okay to pop into a small place for a quick lunch if I put a dress over my bathing suit, and my fiance puts a shirt on?
Second, we also were considering renting a car for just one day and doing a bit of a driving tour around the country side, maybe driving down to the Rioja region. Does anyone have any suggestions for sights to check out? Something on the country, quaint village side.
Thanks all!
My fiance and I will be spending a week in San Sebastian for our honeymoon the first week of August, after spending a week in Paris. For those of you who have been to SS, I have 2 questions! First, I know that SS is known for being a rainy place, but we are hoping to get at least one or two beach days (or at least a couple hours anyway). I was curious if anyone could share info on beach protocol there. For example, is it acceptable to walk from your hotel to the beach in a bathing suit and cover up? Is it okay to pop into a small place for a quick lunch if I put a dress over my bathing suit, and my fiance puts a shirt on?
Second, we also were considering renting a car for just one day and doing a bit of a driving tour around the country side, maybe driving down to the Rioja region. Does anyone have any suggestions for sights to check out? Something on the country, quaint village side.
Thanks all!
Jun 22nd, 2011, 07:49 AM
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It is a beach town even though they say one out of every 4 days is a beach day. I think it is appropriate to put on a dress or shirt and stroll into the Pintxo bars. Paris and San Sebastian, sounds like an incredible trip.
Jun 22nd, 2011, 08:43 AM
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August will most probably be beach day every day, even though there might be a heavy shower every now and then.
I've been in San Sebastián in summmer time almost every year since the late 80's, and not being able to go to the beach has never been a problem that has crossed my mind. The statistics for the first week in August (past 15 years) says six hours sun pr. day, and four days with rainfall. If you are lucky enough to have a late night thunderstorm, there are no better and more romantic place to watch the spectacle than from Café de la Concha, right in the middle of the La Concha promenade. http://www.cafedelaconcha.com/home.htm
In general people don't walk into bars/restaurants in Spain in bathing suit/shorts (except in the most touristy areas). There are a couple of cafés at the La Concha/Ondarreta beaches where things are different and bathing suits and shorts are common. San Sebastián is generally laid-back, but people like to dress up. Having said that, it was quite popular to ride a bike naked along the beach promenade a couple of years ago, but it didn't really catch on...
Not the long line of beach restaurants in San Sebastián as in many other beach resorts, but some of the best tapas bars and restaurants in the world will be some few minutes walking away. All about going for the famous pintxos in San Sebastián:
http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en
Lots of charming small villages along the beautiful coastline towards Bilbao. Fabulous sea-food restaurants in the harbour in small Getaria, some twenty minute drive west of San Sebastián (also frequent buses): http://thepauperedchef.com/2007/12/elkano-in-getar.html
Or go to pictoresque Donibane/San Juan some 10 km east of town. The bus leaves from Plaza de Guipúzcoa in Central San Sebastián about once an hour and takes some 30 mins. Also possible to walk here along the stunning coastline in some two-three hours:
http://www.euroresidentes.com/eurore...s/san-juan.htm
I've been in San Sebastián in summmer time almost every year since the late 80's, and not being able to go to the beach has never been a problem that has crossed my mind. The statistics for the first week in August (past 15 years) says six hours sun pr. day, and four days with rainfall. If you are lucky enough to have a late night thunderstorm, there are no better and more romantic place to watch the spectacle than from Café de la Concha, right in the middle of the La Concha promenade. http://www.cafedelaconcha.com/home.htm
In general people don't walk into bars/restaurants in Spain in bathing suit/shorts (except in the most touristy areas). There are a couple of cafés at the La Concha/Ondarreta beaches where things are different and bathing suits and shorts are common. San Sebastián is generally laid-back, but people like to dress up. Having said that, it was quite popular to ride a bike naked along the beach promenade a couple of years ago, but it didn't really catch on...
Not the long line of beach restaurants in San Sebastián as in many other beach resorts, but some of the best tapas bars and restaurants in the world will be some few minutes walking away. All about going for the famous pintxos in San Sebastián:
http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en
Lots of charming small villages along the beautiful coastline towards Bilbao. Fabulous sea-food restaurants in the harbour in small Getaria, some twenty minute drive west of San Sebastián (also frequent buses): http://thepauperedchef.com/2007/12/elkano-in-getar.html
Or go to pictoresque Donibane/San Juan some 10 km east of town. The bus leaves from Plaza de Guipúzcoa in Central San Sebastián about once an hour and takes some 30 mins. Also possible to walk here along the stunning coastline in some two-three hours:
http://www.euroresidentes.com/eurore...s/san-juan.htm
Jun 22nd, 2011, 09:56 AM
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Thank you for the excellent responses! Donibane/San Juan looks beautiful and I like the idea of driving along the coast towards France.
Kimhe - So what would I local/regular at La Concha do for lunch/snacks/drinks when they are spending the day at the beach? Go home and change first, bring food and drinks with them? I might be over paranoid about it all, but I hate looking like a "typical" American tourist! Thanks
Kimhe - So what would I local/regular at La Concha do for lunch/snacks/drinks when they are spending the day at the beach? Go home and change first, bring food and drinks with them? I might be over paranoid about it all, but I hate looking like a "typical" American tourist! Thanks
Jun 22nd, 2011, 10:27 AM
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People often bring food to the beach. I've used to bring a couple of bocadillos/sandwiches and a huge bottle of water if I planned to stay a long time. Kiosks are seelling drinks, icecream, snacks and something light to eat. If I have gone to the beach, I've usually gone in the morning from some 10-11am to 1 pm or around 5 to 7 in the evening. Then you will not collide with eating hours. Lunch 1.30pm-4pm and dinner from about 9pm (the pintxos crawl stars already at about 7pm).
I especially enjoy the afternoons on one of the three fabulous city beaches (Zurriola on the other side of the river, five mins walking from the Parte vieja/old town is my favourite), when people are staring to leave to prepare for the evening.
Excellent lunch bargains in many, if not most, restaurants. Three course lunch with drinks included for some 12-20€ in the Parte vieja/Old town. In the more local neighbourhoods (Antiguo/Gros/Egia) it will be from about 8€. They are always dead serious about their food in San Sebastián, and some of these lunches can be true gourmet experiences. Often the local fish soup Sopa de Pescado a la Donostiarra (Donostia is the Basque name of the city) will be a starter on these menus. I dream of it on a regular basis.
Lunch is generally the main meal in Spain, but the restaurants will also be crowded from about 9 to midnight.
I especially enjoy the afternoons on one of the three fabulous city beaches (Zurriola on the other side of the river, five mins walking from the Parte vieja/old town is my favourite), when people are staring to leave to prepare for the evening.
Excellent lunch bargains in many, if not most, restaurants. Three course lunch with drinks included for some 12-20€ in the Parte vieja/Old town. In the more local neighbourhoods (Antiguo/Gros/Egia) it will be from about 8€. They are always dead serious about their food in San Sebastián, and some of these lunches can be true gourmet experiences. Often the local fish soup Sopa de Pescado a la Donostiarra (Donostia is the Basque name of the city) will be a starter on these menus. I dream of it on a regular basis.
Lunch is generally the main meal in Spain, but the restaurants will also be crowded from about 9 to midnight.
Jun 22nd, 2011, 11:36 AM
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The buses and trains along the coast in both directions are really convenient, so I like your initial idea of driving inland to wine country. A resident suggested the town of Laguardia and its surroundings to me if I had a car, but I was sticking to the coast. Enjoy!
Jun 22nd, 2011, 12:13 PM
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Kimhe - Thanks for all the beach advice. I'm excited for these prefixe lunches, they sound great! Any specific restaurant suggestions?
Yorkshire - Laguardia looks beautiful! It is so hard to choose between doing a trip along the coast or inland.. I wish I had the time to do it all!
Yorkshire - Laguardia looks beautiful! It is so hard to choose between doing a trip along the coast or inland.. I wish I had the time to do it all!
Jun 22nd, 2011, 12:23 PM
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You do! Those towns along the coast are super close--less then 30 mins to Hondarribia or Getaria. San Juan was a nice walk in May, but maybe a tad hot in August (unless you are an early riser). One of the great things about SS is the proximity of easily reachable nearby towns. With lunch and dinner being so late, there is always time to do a day trip and get back to SS where the action is at night.
Jun 22nd, 2011, 02:03 PM
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Laguardia is a little over two hours by car from San Sebastian, which makes for a long day, and a difficult drive back if you're been sipping a little too much of the excellent vintages that abound in this region.
The bodegas Señorío de Arínzano, Pago de Larrainzar and Señorío de Otazu, just outside of Pamplona (Navarra), are a little closer and considered to be among the best in Spain. They are also located on beautiful estates (www.iberiantraveler.com/Wines_of_Navarra.pdf). But like the bodegas in the Rioja, you'll need reservations. They do not accept walkups.
Getaria also has several interesting txakoli vineyards worth visiting, including Bodegas Txomin Etxaniz (www.txominetxaniz.com/), which overlooks the sea. It's a little closer to San Sebastian-Donostia and Getaria offers several good lunch options. Again, reservations are required to visit any of the txakoli vineyards, so plan ahead.
The bodegas Señorío de Arínzano, Pago de Larrainzar and Señorío de Otazu, just outside of Pamplona (Navarra), are a little closer and considered to be among the best in Spain. They are also located on beautiful estates (www.iberiantraveler.com/Wines_of_Navarra.pdf). But like the bodegas in the Rioja, you'll need reservations. They do not accept walkups.
Getaria also has several interesting txakoli vineyards worth visiting, including Bodegas Txomin Etxaniz (www.txominetxaniz.com/), which overlooks the sea. It's a little closer to San Sebastian-Donostia and Getaria offers several good lunch options. Again, reservations are required to visit any of the txakoli vineyards, so plan ahead.
Jun 22nd, 2011, 02:32 PM
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Dozens of restaurants in the small parte vieja/Old town with such ´lunch-time menus. Any serving less than great food would be out of business in two weeks, so you can't do much wrong.
But here are some recommendations:
Have had several nice lunches at basic La Cueva. Outdoor seating, lovely people running the place. Lunch menu would be some 12-14€:
http://www.restaurantelacueva.org/index_ingles.htm
Traditional La Cepa serves lunch-time menu for 15€, 25€ in the weekends. They've got the finest Jamón Ibérico (from Jabugo) in the world (as do many other places in San Sebastián, but here it's a signature produce): http://www.barlacepa.com/en/index.html
Casa Vergara in Calle Mayor, 21 (just opposite the Santa María church) is an excellent place with reasonably priced lunch menus.
Of the more up-scale restaurants in the Parte vieja, I can recommend La Muralla. Four courses gourmet style meal with three different wines, 25€ at lunchtime from Monday to Friday: http://www.restaurantelamuralla.com/index.html
My favourite in town for more than twenty years were recently shut down, but Casa Urbano is run by the same people.
Three course lunch-time menu, Monday-Friday 22€, 27€ at night.
http://www.restauranteurbano.com/index.html
Or try one of the nine or ten Michelin star restaurants in and around town (3 three star restaurants), but then we are talking very different prices.
http://www.restauranteurbano.com/en/index.html
But be sure you make at least a couple of pintxos crawls when you are in town. Have a house speciality or two and a glass or two and then move on to the next place. One of the best and most fun food excperiences you can find. http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en
But here are some recommendations:
Have had several nice lunches at basic La Cueva. Outdoor seating, lovely people running the place. Lunch menu would be some 12-14€:
http://www.restaurantelacueva.org/index_ingles.htm
Traditional La Cepa serves lunch-time menu for 15€, 25€ in the weekends. They've got the finest Jamón Ibérico (from Jabugo) in the world (as do many other places in San Sebastián, but here it's a signature produce): http://www.barlacepa.com/en/index.html
Casa Vergara in Calle Mayor, 21 (just opposite the Santa María church) is an excellent place with reasonably priced lunch menus.
Of the more up-scale restaurants in the Parte vieja, I can recommend La Muralla. Four courses gourmet style meal with three different wines, 25€ at lunchtime from Monday to Friday: http://www.restaurantelamuralla.com/index.html
My favourite in town for more than twenty years were recently shut down, but Casa Urbano is run by the same people.
Three course lunch-time menu, Monday-Friday 22€, 27€ at night.
http://www.restauranteurbano.com/index.html
Or try one of the nine or ten Michelin star restaurants in and around town (3 three star restaurants), but then we are talking very different prices.
http://www.restauranteurbano.com/en/index.html
But be sure you make at least a couple of pintxos crawls when you are in town. Have a house speciality or two and a glass or two and then move on to the next place. One of the best and most fun food excperiences you can find. http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en
Jun 22nd, 2011, 04:39 PM
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Kimhe - Thanks for the suggestions! I will definitely look into them all. We scheduled a private pintxo tour through sansebastianfood.com. I'm very excited for it!
Bodegas Txomin Etxaniz looks like it would be interesting, and it so close to San Sebastian. Now I am thinking one day we will take the bus out to Donibane/San Juan to spend the morning/lunch and return to SS for the beach in the evening. And then another day, rent a car and drive out to the vineyards and perhaps elsewhere. We have 5 full days in SS, not including travel days, so I think this should be sufficient time? Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Bodegas Txomin Etxaniz looks like it would be interesting, and it so close to San Sebastian. Now I am thinking one day we will take the bus out to Donibane/San Juan to spend the morning/lunch and return to SS for the beach in the evening. And then another day, rent a car and drive out to the vineyards and perhaps elsewhere. We have 5 full days in SS, not including travel days, so I think this should be sufficient time? Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Jun 23rd, 2011, 01:36 AM
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San Sebastián in itself is fantastic, so I wouldn't do too much of traveling around. Your plan now seems fine, one half day excursion to Donibane for lunch etc, and one day to rent a car and explore the inlands (consider the Arantzazu monastary and the old university town Oñati).
http://www.blogseitb.us/basquetourism/tag/arantzazu/
So many things to see in San Sebastián, and there are fabulous walks along the la Concha promenade, up towards the Monte Igueldo and the old-fashioned funfair (also a funicular going up here) and up at Monte Urgull overloooking the Parte vieja. Spectacular views from both Igueldo and Urgull.
Have a walk in the beautiful park of the Palacio Miramar, right on La Concha Bay, used to be the royal summer residence since the late 19th century. From 1972 it has been in the hands of the San Sebastián city council. Today the Palace is the center for Basque Cultural Studies and the home of the Basque Academy of Arts and Sciences. In the summer months, from June through August, the Miramar is the scene of the all day summer school of the University of the Basque Country. Extremely popular, a vaste number of courses, conferences etc about almost all conceivable topics (many also in English).
http://www.donostiasansebastian.com/...o_miramar.html
You might also want to see the Aiete Palace and the lovely surrounding park. The palace was Franco's summer residence during the dictatorship where he held most of governments meetings at this time of year. http://www.donostiasansebastian.com/palacio_aiete.html
http://travel.viamichelin.com/web/De...Paseo_de_Aiete
Fantastic food markets in town (La Bretxa and San Martín), and a couple of well worth visiting museums, perhaps especially the newly renovated and reopened San Telmo art and history museum (a 16th century convent) on the outskirts of the Parte vieja.
http://wcities.com/san-sebastian/mus...mo-388546.html
http://www.blogseitb.us/basquetourism/tag/arantzazu/
So many things to see in San Sebastián, and there are fabulous walks along the la Concha promenade, up towards the Monte Igueldo and the old-fashioned funfair (also a funicular going up here) and up at Monte Urgull overloooking the Parte vieja. Spectacular views from both Igueldo and Urgull.
Have a walk in the beautiful park of the Palacio Miramar, right on La Concha Bay, used to be the royal summer residence since the late 19th century. From 1972 it has been in the hands of the San Sebastián city council. Today the Palace is the center for Basque Cultural Studies and the home of the Basque Academy of Arts and Sciences. In the summer months, from June through August, the Miramar is the scene of the all day summer school of the University of the Basque Country. Extremely popular, a vaste number of courses, conferences etc about almost all conceivable topics (many also in English).
http://www.donostiasansebastian.com/...o_miramar.html
You might also want to see the Aiete Palace and the lovely surrounding park. The palace was Franco's summer residence during the dictatorship where he held most of governments meetings at this time of year. http://www.donostiasansebastian.com/palacio_aiete.html
http://travel.viamichelin.com/web/De...Paseo_de_Aiete
Fantastic food markets in town (La Bretxa and San Martín), and a couple of well worth visiting museums, perhaps especially the newly renovated and reopened San Telmo art and history museum (a 16th century convent) on the outskirts of the Parte vieja.
http://wcities.com/san-sebastian/mus...mo-388546.html
Jun 23rd, 2011, 02:18 AM
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... and the pintxos tour sounds fantastic! From the description, I'm quite sure that these places are included on your trip: Ganbara (wild mushrooms), Goiz-Argi (prawns), Txepetxa (anchovies) and La Cuchara de San Telmo (foie) and perhaps Astelehena for the Carrilleras (veal cheek). All are truly excellent pintxos bars.
The five days Cultural Adventures with Paddy Woodworth & Jon Warren also sounds magnificent, but that will of course have to wait for another time. The author Paddy Woodworth really knows what he's talking about. Among other things, he contributed with comments (together with Rob Stone) on the intriguing Carlos Medem documentary "The Basque Ball/ La Pelota Vasca" (2003).
The five days Cultural Adventures with Paddy Woodworth & Jon Warren also sounds magnificent, but that will of course have to wait for another time. The author Paddy Woodworth really knows what he's talking about. Among other things, he contributed with comments (together with Rob Stone) on the intriguing Carlos Medem documentary "The Basque Ball/ La Pelota Vasca" (2003).
Jun 23rd, 2011, 02:22 AM
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.. hm... Julio Medem, that is: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Basque-Ball-.../dp/B000JMKA22
Jun 23rd, 2011, 06:33 AM
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Yes, I don't want to spend too much time away from San Sebastian and fiance doesn't want to spend too much time away from the beach! I do like to explore though, so I think these two side trips are the most we will do. Thank you for all the advice on things to do and food to eat! Our whole itinerary is basically figured out now
Jun 23rd, 2011, 01:14 PM
#19
as i can testify from my own experience, you can't go wrong following kimhe's suggestions.
we loved SS on our one and only visit [so far] over 25 years ago - but there was the biggest thunderstorm I have ever been in the first night we were there. so the reputation for rain may not be undeserved.
we loved SS on our one and only visit [so far] over 25 years ago - but there was the biggest thunderstorm I have ever been in the first night we were there. so the reputation for rain may not be undeserved.
Jun 23rd, 2011, 01:36 PM
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We stayed at the hotel Niza on playa la concha last month and really enjoyed the restaurant attached to the hotel, Narru. I had read about it on a San Seb food blog (http://www.travelcookeat.com/) and it was really good. We only ate in the bar, but had wonderful tapas, salads and bigger plates with the best view in town. You can easily access it from the beach (off promenade) or through the hotel.
We also really enjoyed a tasting menu at Bodegan Alejandro and tapas at Bar Zeruko in old town. We took the bus to Bilbao and saw the Guggenheim, a interesting trip through beautiful countryside to a stunning piece of architecture.
We also really enjoyed a tasting menu at Bodegan Alejandro and tapas at Bar Zeruko in old town. We took the bus to Bilbao and saw the Guggenheim, a interesting trip through beautiful countryside to a stunning piece of architecture.
