Sampling Some of Sicily and Bits of Italy Beyond
Nov 22nd, 2017, 10:07 PM
#102
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you Candace! I'll be in Atrani in May...thanks for warning about the stairs.
What fun meeting Rick Steves--twice!! I have that book too, and just read his tour of the Archaelogical Museum in Naples. Thank heaven for writers who do laughter and learning at the same time!
Are there any special eateries/bakeries/ cafes you recommend in Atrani? If you have a chance, could you post the names here? Looking forward to your Naples report as we'll be there too!
What fun meeting Rick Steves--twice!! I have that book too, and just read his tour of the Archaelogical Museum in Naples. Thank heaven for writers who do laughter and learning at the same time!
Are there any special eateries/bakeries/ cafes you recommend in Atrani? If you have a chance, could you post the names here? Looking forward to your Naples report as we'll be there too!
Nov 23rd, 2017, 05:41 AM
#103
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Honestly, I was a bit concerned about driving in Sicily before I started. However, I was completely amazed at how little traffic was on the highways. Basically none. I only saw two instances of people passing unsafely. The 9 days I drove solo were really enjoyable! I drove a little in Trapani where I picked up my car and a little in Siracusa where I dropped it on Ortigia. There was traffic, but nothing scary.
My Liberation Day experience was having to go to the Agrigento mall to buy a replacement camera. That was like trying to get into South Coast Plaza to shop right before Christmas. I just put on my SoCal aggressive driving hat and got a parking spot. That was ugly.....
Dont be discouraged about driving in Sicily! Just dont try it in the major cities.
My Liberation Day experience was having to go to the Agrigento mall to buy a replacement camera. That was like trying to get into South Coast Plaza to shop right before Christmas. I just put on my SoCal aggressive driving hat and got a parking spot. That was ugly.....
Dont be discouraged about driving in Sicily! Just dont try it in the major cities.
Nov 23rd, 2017, 07:01 AM
#104
I can't help but think that the driving issue depends completely on what you are accustomed to and where you learned to drive. Driving in Sicily didn't wasn't even a blip on the radar for me. >>
lol, I like the idea that I'm a country mouse who has never driven in a "big city" but as I regularly drove in central London for 25 years, as did DH. Both of us found the driving in Sicily very stressful and I do think that if you are going to drive there you need to be forewarned. It's not the back roads or highways of Sicily that are so much the problem, though they can also present challenges, especially if you are heading for any of the hill towns of the east, but driving in towns and even worse cities, where you will need all your wits about you, and then some.
lol, I like the idea that I'm a country mouse who has never driven in a "big city" but as I regularly drove in central London for 25 years, as did DH. Both of us found the driving in Sicily very stressful and I do think that if you are going to drive there you need to be forewarned. It's not the back roads or highways of Sicily that are so much the problem, though they can also present challenges, especially if you are heading for any of the hill towns of the east, but driving in towns and even worse cities, where you will need all your wits about you, and then some.
Nov 24th, 2017, 03:15 PM
#107
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Exactly HappyTrvlr! I am so glad I rented a car. Having visited Sicily, I could see that my trip would have been hugely limited if I had tried all public transportation.
What was stressful for me was trying to find bus schedules on line in advance. They aren't there consistently or very far in advance and are subject to last minute changes. There are multiple bus companies in Sicily. Also stressful is worrying about making the last bus back to where ever if you are on a day trip and find the site/place interesting enough that you would like to stay a little longer. Maybe you miss a connection and end up arriving late some where when it matters. More stress. Trying to find bus stops and where to buy tickets. It varies.....more stress.
A car was very useful for the less populated parts of Sicily, on Sundays, on holidays, etc.
What was stressful for me was trying to find bus schedules on line in advance. They aren't there consistently or very far in advance and are subject to last minute changes. There are multiple bus companies in Sicily. Also stressful is worrying about making the last bus back to where ever if you are on a day trip and find the site/place interesting enough that you would like to stay a little longer. Maybe you miss a connection and end up arriving late some where when it matters. More stress. Trying to find bus stops and where to buy tickets. It varies.....more stress.
A car was very useful for the less populated parts of Sicily, on Sundays, on holidays, etc.
Nov 24th, 2017, 04:50 PM
#109
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HappyTrvir, Annhig, and Adelaidean, I just want to add that my husband, who did all the driving in Sicily, says that as far as he was concerned, the driving was easy going, except when we got lost in the maze of tiny streets in Erice and when we had to return the car in Siracusa. Both those situations were stressful. Otherwise, no problem. As Dayle has said, just avoid the major cities and the driving probably won't be too difficult. And Dayle is also right when she says that bus travel can become complicated if the bus doesn't arrive on time or there is a missed connection. It's a toss up, I guess, with pros and cons on each side.
CaliNurse, because we cooked most of our meals in our apartment, we can't really make any restaurant recommendations, although we did read about one place in town that seemed to get really good reviews. We did stop for coffee in a little cafe off the piazza one morning. As far as we could tell it was frequented totally by local people and was a great place for people watching. I don't remember any bakeries in town. We picked up whatever baked goods we needed in Amalfi.
Adelaidean, Atrani is nice. It has a lovely hill climbing location and a pretty little beach, but doesn't seem to be as intensely touristy as the major towns on the Amalfi Coast. We were glad we stayed there.
We had out of town guests for Thanksgiving who are leaving tomorrow but then we leave for Kentucky to visit our daughter and her family, so it might be a little while before I can get back to my trip report. Thanks for your patience.
CaliNurse, because we cooked most of our meals in our apartment, we can't really make any restaurant recommendations, although we did read about one place in town that seemed to get really good reviews. We did stop for coffee in a little cafe off the piazza one morning. As far as we could tell it was frequented totally by local people and was a great place for people watching. I don't remember any bakeries in town. We picked up whatever baked goods we needed in Amalfi.
Adelaidean, Atrani is nice. It has a lovely hill climbing location and a pretty little beach, but doesn't seem to be as intensely touristy as the major towns on the Amalfi Coast. We were glad we stayed there.
We had out of town guests for Thanksgiving who are leaving tomorrow but then we leave for Kentucky to visit our daughter and her family, so it might be a little while before I can get back to my trip report. Thanks for your patience.
Dec 30th, 2017, 12:53 PM
#112
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Finally back to work on finishing this delayed report. A few days after Thanksgiving, my 93 year old mother was hospitalized with pneumonia so we rushed home from our visit to our daughter in Kentucky. Mom is home and recuperating now, so that's good. Then we had a houseful of family (and dogs) at Christmas with all the attendant chaos. Lots of fun, but it is kind of nice to have a quiet house and to sit down and continue where I left off with this report.
Visit to Ravello (After Sorting the Trash) Then Off to Naples.
On our last full day in Atrani, we planned to take the bus up the hill to Ravello, but first we had to tackle the trash. In the kitchen of our apartment, there were 3 trash receptacles: dark green, light green, and yellow. Attached above on the fridge was a long handwritten note outlining the requirements for proper rubbish removal in Atrani, and the very specific schedule for pickup and drop-off of different types of trash. We wanted to do it right, but we were baffled by the extensive and detailed instructions. We understood, of course, that food waste was organic, and organics, we figured, went into the small dark green bin. Organics, according to the schedule, could only be put out for pick up early on Monday mornings and on Friday evenings between 8:30 pm and 6:00 am. We arrived on Monday afternoon and were leaving Friday morning, outside the schedule, so we were out of luck with the organics. Would we have to take them with us when we left? Recyclables, according to the sheet, were cardboard and clean paper (no mention of glass) and were to be put out in the light green bin during specific hours on another day but we couldn't figure out which day that was. Non recyclables, including plastic, wet paper and aluminum, could only be put out at 8:30 pm on Wednesdays until 6:00 am on Thursday. We did that, very conscientiously, on Wednesday night at 8:30, but nothing was ever picked up. Our bin was still there, full, at 9:00 am. Thursday morning. One footnote on the instructions indicated that Thursday morning between 8 and 10:00, non recyclables could be dropped off at a spot down near the beach, close to the lower parking lot in town. Here was our chance to at least get rid of that stuff, we hoped. We could see the beach from our windows and I noticed that people were walking into an opening in the wall down in that direction, carrying a plastic bag or two, and were then returning empty handed. That must be the spot. Quickly, as it was close to 9:30, we got the recyclables together and rushed down the 205 steps toward the beach. Sure enough, an iron grate in front of a narrow alley was open and full of garbage. We tossed our bag onto the pile. Then we noticed a dumpster for recyclables and glass so we realized we could get rid of that stuff too if we could just get back with it before the gate closed at 10:00. Racing toward the stairs, we scaled the 205 steps as fast as we could go and made it back just in time with our bag of wine and beer bottles, which we tossed with a big clatter and great relief into the dumpster. Mission accomplished - recycling guidelines obeyed! We felt so good we rewarded ourselves with a coffee and a pastry at the little cafe in Atrani's piazza before we tackled the climb back up to the apartment.
Ravello's reputation as a bit of heaven full of flowers captured my imagination and I was looking forward to experiencing such a lovely place. We decided after our experience with the buses on Capri to pay extra and take the red open topped sightseeing bus from Amalfi to Ravello. The cost of 5 euros each instead of 1.6 on the SITA buses was well worth it to us to avoid being jammed and flattened in the aisle of a big, swaying, hill climbing vehicle. It was easy to avoid the crowd waiting for the SITA bus to Ravello and climb on board the smaller red bus, paying the driver before settling into a seat. Recorded commentary and music accompanied us on the ride, and the drop off point was the same as the SITA bus. There, we happily began our exploration of beautiful Ravello, which I thought easily lived up to its reputation for loveliness.
Our first stop was the Piazza Duomo, shaded by impressive umbrella pines. From there we wandered down the pretty lanes that lead away from the Cathedral steps. During our wandering, we stopped at two different ceramics shops, both filled with beautiful hand painted pottery. At this point in life, we certainly don't need to add any dishes or platters to our well supplied cupboards. But if we did want to buy, I could never have chosen just one pattern from all those gorgeously colorful designs . How brilliant those intricate patterns were, so artistically displayed side by side on every available wall and table. I was sorely tempted.
After indulging in a gelato at a shop we found down another little side street, we made our way to the Villa Rufolo. Again, our time was spent here just wandering around, through the gardens which were so lovely to experience just on their own. But with the additional backdrop of those amazing views down to the sea and the coast, those gardens became absolutely amazing. Photos of course don't do it justice at all, but we took plenty, hoping to keep the memory of this incredible place from ever fading.
Leaving the villa, we headed down the road to find the red bus back to Amalfi. Which we never did find. The red bus and the SITA bus pick up at the same place they drop off outside Ravello so we found that spot easily and began to wait, along with the SITA ticket holders, for the buses to come. After close to 45 minutes, neither bus had shown up and the waiting crowd was getting larger and increasingly restless. Finally, the big SITA bus lumbered into sight and most of the waiting crowd pushed on board. Those ticket holders who wouldn't fit were told by the driver that another bus would be along soon. Those passengers, together with the few of us who were still waiting for the red bus, settled back in line, hopefully not for long. Fifteen minutes later, still no red bus, but another SITA bus pulled up. This bus didn't entirely fill up and when everyone was on board, Steve jumped on and told the driver we had no tickets but needed a ride. No problem, he was told, pay when you get off. So we hopped on and were about halfway down toward Amalfi before we finally saw a little red bus working its way up. We were so glad we hadn't waited for it.
So ended our last day on the Amalfi Coast. From garbage to glorious, it was all an adventure. Early the next morning, Pina met us outside the apartment and drove us back to the train station in Salerno where we caught the train to our next stop, fun, fabulous, funky Naples.
Visit to Ravello (After Sorting the Trash) Then Off to Naples.
On our last full day in Atrani, we planned to take the bus up the hill to Ravello, but first we had to tackle the trash. In the kitchen of our apartment, there were 3 trash receptacles: dark green, light green, and yellow. Attached above on the fridge was a long handwritten note outlining the requirements for proper rubbish removal in Atrani, and the very specific schedule for pickup and drop-off of different types of trash. We wanted to do it right, but we were baffled by the extensive and detailed instructions. We understood, of course, that food waste was organic, and organics, we figured, went into the small dark green bin. Organics, according to the schedule, could only be put out for pick up early on Monday mornings and on Friday evenings between 8:30 pm and 6:00 am. We arrived on Monday afternoon and were leaving Friday morning, outside the schedule, so we were out of luck with the organics. Would we have to take them with us when we left? Recyclables, according to the sheet, were cardboard and clean paper (no mention of glass) and were to be put out in the light green bin during specific hours on another day but we couldn't figure out which day that was. Non recyclables, including plastic, wet paper and aluminum, could only be put out at 8:30 pm on Wednesdays until 6:00 am on Thursday. We did that, very conscientiously, on Wednesday night at 8:30, but nothing was ever picked up. Our bin was still there, full, at 9:00 am. Thursday morning. One footnote on the instructions indicated that Thursday morning between 8 and 10:00, non recyclables could be dropped off at a spot down near the beach, close to the lower parking lot in town. Here was our chance to at least get rid of that stuff, we hoped. We could see the beach from our windows and I noticed that people were walking into an opening in the wall down in that direction, carrying a plastic bag or two, and were then returning empty handed. That must be the spot. Quickly, as it was close to 9:30, we got the recyclables together and rushed down the 205 steps toward the beach. Sure enough, an iron grate in front of a narrow alley was open and full of garbage. We tossed our bag onto the pile. Then we noticed a dumpster for recyclables and glass so we realized we could get rid of that stuff too if we could just get back with it before the gate closed at 10:00. Racing toward the stairs, we scaled the 205 steps as fast as we could go and made it back just in time with our bag of wine and beer bottles, which we tossed with a big clatter and great relief into the dumpster. Mission accomplished - recycling guidelines obeyed! We felt so good we rewarded ourselves with a coffee and a pastry at the little cafe in Atrani's piazza before we tackled the climb back up to the apartment.
Ravello's reputation as a bit of heaven full of flowers captured my imagination and I was looking forward to experiencing such a lovely place. We decided after our experience with the buses on Capri to pay extra and take the red open topped sightseeing bus from Amalfi to Ravello. The cost of 5 euros each instead of 1.6 on the SITA buses was well worth it to us to avoid being jammed and flattened in the aisle of a big, swaying, hill climbing vehicle. It was easy to avoid the crowd waiting for the SITA bus to Ravello and climb on board the smaller red bus, paying the driver before settling into a seat. Recorded commentary and music accompanied us on the ride, and the drop off point was the same as the SITA bus. There, we happily began our exploration of beautiful Ravello, which I thought easily lived up to its reputation for loveliness.
Our first stop was the Piazza Duomo, shaded by impressive umbrella pines. From there we wandered down the pretty lanes that lead away from the Cathedral steps. During our wandering, we stopped at two different ceramics shops, both filled with beautiful hand painted pottery. At this point in life, we certainly don't need to add any dishes or platters to our well supplied cupboards. But if we did want to buy, I could never have chosen just one pattern from all those gorgeously colorful designs . How brilliant those intricate patterns were, so artistically displayed side by side on every available wall and table. I was sorely tempted.
After indulging in a gelato at a shop we found down another little side street, we made our way to the Villa Rufolo. Again, our time was spent here just wandering around, through the gardens which were so lovely to experience just on their own. But with the additional backdrop of those amazing views down to the sea and the coast, those gardens became absolutely amazing. Photos of course don't do it justice at all, but we took plenty, hoping to keep the memory of this incredible place from ever fading.
Leaving the villa, we headed down the road to find the red bus back to Amalfi. Which we never did find. The red bus and the SITA bus pick up at the same place they drop off outside Ravello so we found that spot easily and began to wait, along with the SITA ticket holders, for the buses to come. After close to 45 minutes, neither bus had shown up and the waiting crowd was getting larger and increasingly restless. Finally, the big SITA bus lumbered into sight and most of the waiting crowd pushed on board. Those ticket holders who wouldn't fit were told by the driver that another bus would be along soon. Those passengers, together with the few of us who were still waiting for the red bus, settled back in line, hopefully not for long. Fifteen minutes later, still no red bus, but another SITA bus pulled up. This bus didn't entirely fill up and when everyone was on board, Steve jumped on and told the driver we had no tickets but needed a ride. No problem, he was told, pay when you get off. So we hopped on and were about halfway down toward Amalfi before we finally saw a little red bus working its way up. We were so glad we hadn't waited for it.
So ended our last day on the Amalfi Coast. From garbage to glorious, it was all an adventure. Early the next morning, Pina met us outside the apartment and drove us back to the train station in Salerno where we caught the train to our next stop, fun, fabulous, funky Naples.
Dec 30th, 2017, 03:05 PM
#113
thank you for coming back to [almost] finish your TR, Candace. I do admire your persistence with the rubbish - after it wasn't collected as it should have been I think I would just have left it where it was!
And I love your description of Ravello, which I've not yet been to despite a few visits to the Amalfi coast. one day perhaps.
So bring on Naples!
And I love your description of Ravello, which I've not yet been to despite a few visits to the Amalfi coast. one day perhaps.
So bring on Naples!
Dec 30th, 2017, 03:15 PM
#114
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sorry to hear your mother was ill, but glad to hear she is now recuperating. The holidays are fun but can be tiring. Before Christmas, we had a family wedding, then we hosted family at our house for Christmas Day, and then attended a bridal shower today! And we have New Years Eve plans with friends tomorrow. It's all fun, but I am looking forward to getting back to normal.
I am so happy you are continuing on with your report. I love your writing style. Ravello sounds so beautiful! And you definitely have patience with the garbage situation
I am so happy you are continuing on with your report. I love your writing style. Ravello sounds so beautiful! And you definitely have patience with the garbage situation
Dec 31st, 2017, 11:14 AM
#115
You have broight back memories/nightmares of various trash disposal requirements all over Europe. You were more persistent than I.
Thank you for returning to complete your report, a treat for Fodor’s followers here.
I look forward to your Naples report too as we loved it there.
Thank you for returning to complete your report, a treat for Fodor’s followers here.
I look forward to your Naples report too as we loved it there.
Jan 1st, 2018, 01:55 PM
#116
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, the garbage was a challenge. But imagine, if everyone didn't follow the rules, how overwhelming the trash problem could be in a compact little town like Atrani. Thankfully, they have a system that seems to work. The alleyways, the beach, and the little piazzas of Atrani were all neat and tidy, with no evidence of discarded rubbish except for the occasional banana peel or cigarette butt.
Naples for Two Nights.
After eighteen solid days of sunshine, it started to rain as our train left Salerno. Naples, when we arrived, was damp and gloomy. Perhaps for this reason, our first impression of the city was also pretty gloomy. The buildings we passed on our way to the hotel were dull and grey in the rain and the infamous garbage of Naples overflowed the curbside dumpsters. Anarchy seemed to overtake any rules of the road and traffic surged madly in every direction. Our taxi driver roared down streets no bigger than alleys as pedestrians hugged the brick walls of adjacent buildings to get out of his way. Well, we knew Naples and its gritty reality wasn't for everyone, and perhaps it wasn't going to be for us either.
Things began to look up, however, when we arrived at the Hotel Piazza Bellini. We were greeted pleasantly, and even though it wasn't quite check in time, our room was ready so we could relax for a little while before going out to find lunch. A note about the Hotel Piazza Bellini: they have a really handy taxi procurement service for guests. We called the hotel when we arrived at the train station and they arranged to have a taxi pick us up within a few minutes, so we had no worries about dealing with a cabbie who might not be entirely trustworthy, which can be an issue in Naples, I guess. We used this service a few times and it always worked great for us.
Our choice for lunch was, of course, pizza, and we got some recommendations from the hotel reception desk. The Via dei Tribunali was a short walk from the hotel and it was lined with little shops and eateries. The rain had stopped but the cobbles were wet and slippery. We carefully made our way down the street, looking for the recommended pizzerias. The sun finally made a short appearance, brightening up the scene and our moods, and Naples began to intrigue us. Via dei Tribunali was not pretty or polished. It was a long way from Capri Town or Taormina. But it was real and full of gritty energy. One quirky shop, open to the street, was jammed packed with antique oddities displayed one on top of another. Another shop, also wide open to passersby, had a collection of dusty sinks and old hardware artistically arranged in great piles. A dimly lit bookstore was loaded with books packed on shelves, stacked high on the floor, and filling every dark corner. Street food vendors hawked various tempting Neapolitan specialties from awning covered storefronts. Some pizza places drew lines of customers willing to wait for a legendary slice. The desk clerk at the hotel had written down three good choices for pizza on our map. Sorbillo's was one of them, and even though there were people waiting outside for a table, we decided to join the line. It was edging toward mid afternoon and we were hungry . Thankfully, it didn't take long to be seated and before we knew it two beautiful pizzas were set down in front of us. Wow. I love pizza and this margherita classic was really good. The curst was perfectly charred on the bottom and the center was thin and almost gooey. Pizza heaven! Steve, too, enjoyed his diavola style pie, with spicy salami and a bit of heat. Then we discovered we were at the "wrong" Sorbillos. We were eating at Antonio and Gigi Sorbillo's, not Gino Sorbillo's pizzeria which was owned by their cousin and located just down the street. The pizza we had just finished off was super, we thought. Could Gino's be better? We decided to go to Gino's the next night and compare his more famous offerings with the pizza we had just enjoyed.
After our pizza lunch, we made our way to the Archeological Museum, a short walk down the same street. Because we planned to visit Pompeii the next day, we wanted to take advantage of the preview of that site offered by the museum. But then I wondered if it would have made more sense to visit the museum after seeing Pompeii itself. That way, after seeing the actual walls and floors those frescos and mosaics had once decorated, the museum artifacts would have been enhanced by our experience on site. But timing dictated our schedule and unfortunately we could not fit in another day in Naples.
Besides the amazing treasures from Pompeii, which I could have studied for hours, the display of monumental Farnese statues were impressive to say the least. Hercules was perfect in his hugeness, looking tired and weary but still powerful. I could almost see him striding purposefully through the Greek temples we loved in Sicily. And the Farnese Bull writhes in the center of the gallery as a embodiment of violence that is both troubling and painfully beautiful.
We were tired as we left the museum, and as the dinner hour approached we decided to just buy some street food and take it back to our room. We found a little grocery where locals were ordering sandwiches to go. We got in line and ordered the same sandwiches as the guy ahead of us had ordered. They were delicious and we had leftovers enough to pack for our lunch the next day in Pompeii. Pompeii! It looked like the weather would be close to perfect for our visit and I couldn't wait to finally see this amazing place for myself.
Naples for Two Nights.
After eighteen solid days of sunshine, it started to rain as our train left Salerno. Naples, when we arrived, was damp and gloomy. Perhaps for this reason, our first impression of the city was also pretty gloomy. The buildings we passed on our way to the hotel were dull and grey in the rain and the infamous garbage of Naples overflowed the curbside dumpsters. Anarchy seemed to overtake any rules of the road and traffic surged madly in every direction. Our taxi driver roared down streets no bigger than alleys as pedestrians hugged the brick walls of adjacent buildings to get out of his way. Well, we knew Naples and its gritty reality wasn't for everyone, and perhaps it wasn't going to be for us either.
Things began to look up, however, when we arrived at the Hotel Piazza Bellini. We were greeted pleasantly, and even though it wasn't quite check in time, our room was ready so we could relax for a little while before going out to find lunch. A note about the Hotel Piazza Bellini: they have a really handy taxi procurement service for guests. We called the hotel when we arrived at the train station and they arranged to have a taxi pick us up within a few minutes, so we had no worries about dealing with a cabbie who might not be entirely trustworthy, which can be an issue in Naples, I guess. We used this service a few times and it always worked great for us.
Our choice for lunch was, of course, pizza, and we got some recommendations from the hotel reception desk. The Via dei Tribunali was a short walk from the hotel and it was lined with little shops and eateries. The rain had stopped but the cobbles were wet and slippery. We carefully made our way down the street, looking for the recommended pizzerias. The sun finally made a short appearance, brightening up the scene and our moods, and Naples began to intrigue us. Via dei Tribunali was not pretty or polished. It was a long way from Capri Town or Taormina. But it was real and full of gritty energy. One quirky shop, open to the street, was jammed packed with antique oddities displayed one on top of another. Another shop, also wide open to passersby, had a collection of dusty sinks and old hardware artistically arranged in great piles. A dimly lit bookstore was loaded with books packed on shelves, stacked high on the floor, and filling every dark corner. Street food vendors hawked various tempting Neapolitan specialties from awning covered storefronts. Some pizza places drew lines of customers willing to wait for a legendary slice. The desk clerk at the hotel had written down three good choices for pizza on our map. Sorbillo's was one of them, and even though there were people waiting outside for a table, we decided to join the line. It was edging toward mid afternoon and we were hungry . Thankfully, it didn't take long to be seated and before we knew it two beautiful pizzas were set down in front of us. Wow. I love pizza and this margherita classic was really good. The curst was perfectly charred on the bottom and the center was thin and almost gooey. Pizza heaven! Steve, too, enjoyed his diavola style pie, with spicy salami and a bit of heat. Then we discovered we were at the "wrong" Sorbillos. We were eating at Antonio and Gigi Sorbillo's, not Gino Sorbillo's pizzeria which was owned by their cousin and located just down the street. The pizza we had just finished off was super, we thought. Could Gino's be better? We decided to go to Gino's the next night and compare his more famous offerings with the pizza we had just enjoyed.
After our pizza lunch, we made our way to the Archeological Museum, a short walk down the same street. Because we planned to visit Pompeii the next day, we wanted to take advantage of the preview of that site offered by the museum. But then I wondered if it would have made more sense to visit the museum after seeing Pompeii itself. That way, after seeing the actual walls and floors those frescos and mosaics had once decorated, the museum artifacts would have been enhanced by our experience on site. But timing dictated our schedule and unfortunately we could not fit in another day in Naples.
Besides the amazing treasures from Pompeii, which I could have studied for hours, the display of monumental Farnese statues were impressive to say the least. Hercules was perfect in his hugeness, looking tired and weary but still powerful. I could almost see him striding purposefully through the Greek temples we loved in Sicily. And the Farnese Bull writhes in the center of the gallery as a embodiment of violence that is both troubling and painfully beautiful.
We were tired as we left the museum, and as the dinner hour approached we decided to just buy some street food and take it back to our room. We found a little grocery where locals were ordering sandwiches to go. We got in line and ordered the same sandwiches as the guy ahead of us had ordered. They were delicious and we had leftovers enough to pack for our lunch the next day in Pompeii. Pompeii! It looked like the weather would be close to perfect for our visit and I couldn't wait to finally see this amazing place for myself.
Jan 2nd, 2018, 12:33 AM
#117
ah, Naples. So far I have been twice - both times as day trips when I have been staying in Sorrento. The first was over 40 years ago with my DH when even though we both came from big cities we had never seen anything like it, from the more than gritty back streets to the glittering arcades. The second time was when I was doing a language course in Sorrento and with 2 friends we decided that rather than stick with the school's itinerary, we would seek out our own pizza and go to the NAM. Well we managed both reasonably successfully, [apart from a little disagreement about the bill for the pizzas which we resolved in our favour, thus proving that the italian lessons were doing some good] and a visit to the the via Via S. Gregorio Armeno in order to look at all the shops overflowing, as you say, with precepi [nativity scenes] and everything connected with them. But then things took a turn for the worse as it was getting dark, it was raining, we were hopelessly lost and we were surrounded by the dingiest of unlit back streets, only to be rescued by a kind shop owner who was just closing up and who went out of his way to escort us back to the railway station. Phew - safe at last.
perhaps now I should go back and actually stay there! [now that's an idea!]
Love your description of the statues - they are magnificent, are they not? And the treasures of Pompeii are amazing. We had been to Pompeii the day before and certainly that gave a context to what we were seeing but I'm not sure that it wouldn't have been just as good the other way round. Looking forward to reading what you thought of Pompeii.
perhaps now I should go back and actually stay there! [now that's an idea!]
Love your description of the statues - they are magnificent, are they not? And the treasures of Pompeii are amazing. We had been to Pompeii the day before and certainly that gave a context to what we were seeing but I'm not sure that it wouldn't have been just as good the other way round. Looking forward to reading what you thought of Pompeii.
Jan 2nd, 2018, 07:45 AM
#118
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looking forward to reading your Pompeii report, too. I didn't think I would be interested in Naples until I saw Rick Steves show on Naples. Sounds and looks fascinating. Love your description of the statues, too. You should be a travel writer!!
Jan 2nd, 2018, 01:20 PM
#119
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Annhig, being lost at night in Naples is not an adventure I would like to have. Thank goodness for that kindly shop owner. We also encountered friendly shopkeepers who gave us warm greetings when we returned to their shops for a second visit, who offered advice when we asked a question, and who often seemed willing to spend time just chatting with us. Naples might not have a reputation as being a particularly friendly city, but we left with a good impression of both the city and its people.
Karen, Naples is fascinating. I wish I had seen that Rick Steves show. I am going to look for it when I get the chance.
Our Visit to Pompeii.
How amazing it was to walk the streets of a city buried in volcanic ash 2,000 years ago and now excavated. How fascinating to wander through the forum, by the basilica, then into the streets once travelled by chariots, through the market place, past little shops and into food stands which still retained counters with recesses for pots, maybe once filled with boiled lentils, simmering porridge or stewed beans. Because most residents of the city didn't have cooking facilities in their simple homes, they relied on these food service establishments for their cooked meals. I could imagine patrons lined up in front of those steaming pots, gossiping as they waited for their hot dinner to be ladled up. We passed a bakery where the grinders to process grain into flour were still in place, as were the ovens that looked ready to fire up. Many of the nearby streets were lined with little homes, most with only one or two rooms, whose inhabitants probably frequented those shops and the bakery next door. How incredible it was to walk the streets just as those ill fated people once did.
We passed down another road where a large group had formed quite a line in front of an inauspicious doorway, waiting to be allowed in. What was the attraction here, we wondered? Oh yes, the brothel. It certainly drew a crowd. We passed it by, having seen enough the day before at the museum in Naples.
The villas of some of the wealthier residents we toured, like the House of the Faun, the House of the Tragic Poet, and the House of the Vetti, were decorated with interesting fragments of mosaics and frescos, and were designed with gardens, courtyards and fountains to take advantage of the breezes. An especially good life was obviously available to those prosperous enough to afford it. But we were struck by just how good life must have been in Pompeii for almost everyone else who lived there. Fresh water for the city arrived by aqueduct and was distributed throughout the town via a system of gravity fed pipes. There was enough water for the streets to be frequently washed down and to supply a large public bathhouse. The local theater could seat 5,000 people and there was also an amphitheater to provide additional entertainment for the citizens. Think about it, fast food, a warm bath, some occasional entertainment, and a stable government that even took care of cleaning the streets. The citizenry of Pompeii had a good thing going until that fateful day Mt. Vesuvius exploded and it all went dark.
Getting to Pompeii from Naples and back:
How we got to Pompeii from Naples and back again merits, I think, its own section. We loved Pompeii but we didn't love our train trips back and forth. I thought I would take some time describing those trips in my next segment of this report so others might benefit from our experiences.
Karen, Naples is fascinating. I wish I had seen that Rick Steves show. I am going to look for it when I get the chance.
Our Visit to Pompeii.
How amazing it was to walk the streets of a city buried in volcanic ash 2,000 years ago and now excavated. How fascinating to wander through the forum, by the basilica, then into the streets once travelled by chariots, through the market place, past little shops and into food stands which still retained counters with recesses for pots, maybe once filled with boiled lentils, simmering porridge or stewed beans. Because most residents of the city didn't have cooking facilities in their simple homes, they relied on these food service establishments for their cooked meals. I could imagine patrons lined up in front of those steaming pots, gossiping as they waited for their hot dinner to be ladled up. We passed a bakery where the grinders to process grain into flour were still in place, as were the ovens that looked ready to fire up. Many of the nearby streets were lined with little homes, most with only one or two rooms, whose inhabitants probably frequented those shops and the bakery next door. How incredible it was to walk the streets just as those ill fated people once did.
We passed down another road where a large group had formed quite a line in front of an inauspicious doorway, waiting to be allowed in. What was the attraction here, we wondered? Oh yes, the brothel. It certainly drew a crowd. We passed it by, having seen enough the day before at the museum in Naples.
The villas of some of the wealthier residents we toured, like the House of the Faun, the House of the Tragic Poet, and the House of the Vetti, were decorated with interesting fragments of mosaics and frescos, and were designed with gardens, courtyards and fountains to take advantage of the breezes. An especially good life was obviously available to those prosperous enough to afford it. But we were struck by just how good life must have been in Pompeii for almost everyone else who lived there. Fresh water for the city arrived by aqueduct and was distributed throughout the town via a system of gravity fed pipes. There was enough water for the streets to be frequently washed down and to supply a large public bathhouse. The local theater could seat 5,000 people and there was also an amphitheater to provide additional entertainment for the citizens. Think about it, fast food, a warm bath, some occasional entertainment, and a stable government that even took care of cleaning the streets. The citizenry of Pompeii had a good thing going until that fateful day Mt. Vesuvius exploded and it all went dark.
Getting to Pompeii from Naples and back:
How we got to Pompeii from Naples and back again merits, I think, its own section. We loved Pompeii but we didn't love our train trips back and forth. I thought I would take some time describing those trips in my next segment of this report so others might benefit from our experiences.
Jan 2nd, 2018, 02:17 PM
#120
Thank you Candace for your detailed description of Pompeii - I think that it's one of the best I've read. Did you have a guide? When DH and I went on the same trip that we went to Naples, so many years ago, we didn't but when i went with the language school we did and it made a huge difference. Even so I'm not sure I absorbed as much as you did!
As for the train trip there and back we went from Sorrento which was fairly unremarkable as far as I recall, ditto the journey from Sorrento to Naples a day or two later [or perhaps I was just so grateful to be on the train that i didn't care]. Thank goodness for the friendly shop keepers indeed.
As for the train trip there and back we went from Sorrento which was fairly unremarkable as far as I recall, ditto the journey from Sorrento to Naples a day or two later [or perhaps I was just so grateful to be on the train that i didn't care]. Thank goodness for the friendly shop keepers indeed.
