Sampling Some of Sicily and Bits of Italy Beyond
Nov 7th, 2017, 12:36 PM
#21
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Really enjoying your report. We were in Sicily last April/May and we liked Palermo a lot. Actually a lot more than we thought we would. Thanks for taking the time to post this. Is there any chance you will post some pictures to go along with your wonderful report?
Nov 8th, 2017, 10:46 AM
#23
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Our First, and Last, Full Day in Palermo!
We woke to another bright and sunny day. Breakfast at the Massimo Plaza Hotel was served in our room each morning, an elegant touch. We requested a "savory" breakfast at 8:00 am. On the dot of 8:00, a tray arrived and was set on the small breakfast table in the corner of the room. A pot of coffee, a platter of meats and cheeses, assorted jams, breads and rolls, plus juice, made for a lovely way to start the day.
The young people at the hotel desk helped us arrange for a driver to take us up to Monreale at 11:00 am to visit the Duomo and see the mosaics. In the meantime, we decided to walk in the direction of the port. A huge car ferry, which must have been the overnight ferry from Naples, was docked at one end, and a gigantic 5 story cruise ship was backing into a dock at the other end. The mammoth, top heavy bulk of the cruise ship loomed large as it maneuvered itself into position at the pier, but soon it was safely docked and unloading its cargo of tourists, eager to see the town.
Leaving the port, we wandered back through little side streets, which grew more picturesque the closer we go to our hotel. There was a puppet theater tucked into one side of a narrow alley, advertising performances, although we couldn't figure out the schedule. The puppets we glimpsed through the doorway were large, over 3 feet high I think, and quite beautifully detailed. But when we tried to photograph them, a woman inside told us pictures were not allowed and shooed us away. We never did find out about show times. Too bad! It probably would have been fun, but then our time was so limited we might not be able to fit it in anyway.
Our driver picked us up as planned across the piazza from the hotel. The drive to Monreale took maybe a half hour through the crazy Palermo traffic and cost 30 euros. We planned to take the bus back because we wanted to stop in at the Norman Palace to see the Chapel and the mosaics there.
As so many have said, the mosaics of Monreale are truly special, filling almost every space and covering almost every surface in the Duomo. The golden bits glimmer like jewelry on the walls and ceilings. Tiny squares of glass in multi colors create depth and shading and illustrate bible stories in great detail. The pictures formed by the mosaics glow like the pages of illuminated medieval manuscripts. We sat awhile in the nave, trying to take it all in, before we found our way to the ascent to the terraces, where we could look out first at the cloisters below and then at the city of Palermo from the top.
Back down from the heights, we took some time to enjoy the mosaics again, then exited into the bright sunlight filling the pretty town square. Rounding a corner, we found a pizza place for lunch where we could relax at an outdoor table and enjoy a view of the square. Vendor stalls were overflowing with souvenirs and a few customers fingered over the trinkets. One or two street performers entertained a little group of onlookers. The lack of any crowds made it seem rather sleepy and quite peaceful there in the sun. But with our pizza eaten and our water drunk up, it was time to find the bus stop and head back down to town. We had asked a policeman before entering the Duomo about where we could catch the bus to Palermo and he had gestured vaguely in a downhill direction. After lunch, we walked that way but saw nothing that resembled a bus stop. Walking back to the main square, I remembered reading that bus tickets can be purchased at tobacco shops. Sure enough, the tobacco shop nearby had bus tickets for sale and the friendly lady who sold them to us kindly took us outside in order to point us in the direction of the bus pickup zone. When we still couldn't understand where we needed to go, she took my hands in hers and lined them up in front of my face as a guide, pointing down the hill. She was a sweetheart and I think we finally got it, as we did eventually make it to the bus stop and finally boarded the bus back to Palermo.
We woke to another bright and sunny day. Breakfast at the Massimo Plaza Hotel was served in our room each morning, an elegant touch. We requested a "savory" breakfast at 8:00 am. On the dot of 8:00, a tray arrived and was set on the small breakfast table in the corner of the room. A pot of coffee, a platter of meats and cheeses, assorted jams, breads and rolls, plus juice, made for a lovely way to start the day.
The young people at the hotel desk helped us arrange for a driver to take us up to Monreale at 11:00 am to visit the Duomo and see the mosaics. In the meantime, we decided to walk in the direction of the port. A huge car ferry, which must have been the overnight ferry from Naples, was docked at one end, and a gigantic 5 story cruise ship was backing into a dock at the other end. The mammoth, top heavy bulk of the cruise ship loomed large as it maneuvered itself into position at the pier, but soon it was safely docked and unloading its cargo of tourists, eager to see the town.
Leaving the port, we wandered back through little side streets, which grew more picturesque the closer we go to our hotel. There was a puppet theater tucked into one side of a narrow alley, advertising performances, although we couldn't figure out the schedule. The puppets we glimpsed through the doorway were large, over 3 feet high I think, and quite beautifully detailed. But when we tried to photograph them, a woman inside told us pictures were not allowed and shooed us away. We never did find out about show times. Too bad! It probably would have been fun, but then our time was so limited we might not be able to fit it in anyway.
Our driver picked us up as planned across the piazza from the hotel. The drive to Monreale took maybe a half hour through the crazy Palermo traffic and cost 30 euros. We planned to take the bus back because we wanted to stop in at the Norman Palace to see the Chapel and the mosaics there.
As so many have said, the mosaics of Monreale are truly special, filling almost every space and covering almost every surface in the Duomo. The golden bits glimmer like jewelry on the walls and ceilings. Tiny squares of glass in multi colors create depth and shading and illustrate bible stories in great detail. The pictures formed by the mosaics glow like the pages of illuminated medieval manuscripts. We sat awhile in the nave, trying to take it all in, before we found our way to the ascent to the terraces, where we could look out first at the cloisters below and then at the city of Palermo from the top.
Back down from the heights, we took some time to enjoy the mosaics again, then exited into the bright sunlight filling the pretty town square. Rounding a corner, we found a pizza place for lunch where we could relax at an outdoor table and enjoy a view of the square. Vendor stalls were overflowing with souvenirs and a few customers fingered over the trinkets. One or two street performers entertained a little group of onlookers. The lack of any crowds made it seem rather sleepy and quite peaceful there in the sun. But with our pizza eaten and our water drunk up, it was time to find the bus stop and head back down to town. We had asked a policeman before entering the Duomo about where we could catch the bus to Palermo and he had gestured vaguely in a downhill direction. After lunch, we walked that way but saw nothing that resembled a bus stop. Walking back to the main square, I remembered reading that bus tickets can be purchased at tobacco shops. Sure enough, the tobacco shop nearby had bus tickets for sale and the friendly lady who sold them to us kindly took us outside in order to point us in the direction of the bus pickup zone. When we still couldn't understand where we needed to go, she took my hands in hers and lined them up in front of my face as a guide, pointing down the hill. She was a sweetheart and I think we finally got it, as we did eventually make it to the bus stop and finally boarded the bus back to Palermo.
Nov 8th, 2017, 11:07 AM
#24
What a nice day 
The main reason Sicily is lower on my wishlist is that we would use public transport. I note most people recommend a car.
Candace, re: photos....I use flickr for photosharing, I take an ipad and load my photos every day, anyway, just in case my camera is lost/ broken/ storage card is corrupted - then I have at least 'saved' my photos up until then, and it takes no time to just select a few and add them to whichever photoshare site you register with. So, for example, I can link anyone (family at home, Fodors) to my last trip like this https://flic.kr/s/aHsm7WHJHM (which was Switzerland). Zenfolio is another option, if you look at isabel's photos, for example, you can see how the display compares, and that site allows for text as well.
The main reason Sicily is lower on my wishlist is that we would use public transport. I note most people recommend a car.
Candace, re: photos....I use flickr for photosharing, I take an ipad and load my photos every day, anyway, just in case my camera is lost/ broken/ storage card is corrupted - then I have at least 'saved' my photos up until then, and it takes no time to just select a few and add them to whichever photoshare site you register with. So, for example, I can link anyone (family at home, Fodors) to my last trip like this https://flic.kr/s/aHsm7WHJHM (which was Switzerland). Zenfolio is another option, if you look at isabel's photos, for example, you can see how the display compares, and that site allows for text as well.
Nov 8th, 2017, 11:20 AM
#25
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Thank you so much Adelaidean. That doesn't seem so complicated. I'll give it a try as soon as I can. I need to make the effort to upgrade my computer skills, that's for sure. My kids are always shaking their heads at my ineptitude.
Nov 8th, 2017, 01:12 PM
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On Our First, and Last, Day in Palermo - a Moment of Travel Serendipity!
Knowing that bus tickets needed to be validated after boarding, we tried to figure out where and how to do that. No one else seemed to be bothering. The bus stopped frequently to pick up new passengers as it headed down to Palermo and it was starting to fill up with people. At one point, an attractive lady boarded and we did see her stamping her ticket at a little machine a few seats away from us. Taking a seat kitty corner to us, she must have noticed our struggle to figure out the ticket stamping process because, with a small gesture indicating she could help, she took the tickets from us and stamped them herself. We thanked her, of course, and started, between the two of us, pondering our next dilemma. Because there was no route map on the bus and no stops were announced, we had no idea how we would recognize our stop at the Piazza Indipendenza, where we would need to get off in order to make our way to the Norman Palace. Again, this lovely lady came to our rescue, asking us in American-accented English if she could help. Turned out, she was a certified tour guide for the city of Palermo who grew up in Los Angeles and was on her way to meet a client.
For the next 15 minutes of the bus ride we chatted with her and enjoyed every minute of the conversation which covered a variety of topics from Sicilian dialects to the diversity of the Sicilian people. She highly recommended that we visit the archeological museum not far from our hotel where there was a temporary exhibit of a beautiful greek bowl made of gold originally discovered in Sicily. The bowl had disappeared for years and it had only recently been returned to Italy. She was happy it had come back to Palermo, if only temporarily and we promised to visit the museum to see the exhibit.
We all got off together when the bus stopped at the Piazza Indipendenza and she walked part way with us so she could point out the entry to the Norman Palace across the piazza. That lovely lady, whose name was Jacqueline Alio, gave us her card, and it was only when we got back to our hotel and looked her up online did we realize that she has been called one of Sicily's leading historians. She has published several books and has four available right now on Amazon. One of those, Women of Sicily, Saints, Queens and Rebels, I purchased for my history loving daughter for Christmas.
We can only imagine what a wonder tour guide Jacqueline Alio would be in Palermo. Her passion for the history and the people of Sicily was so apparent and she taught us a lot in only 15 minutes. Sharing that crowded bus ride with her was truly a treat and an honor and we'd like to thank her again for her kindness and generosity to us.
Knowing that bus tickets needed to be validated after boarding, we tried to figure out where and how to do that. No one else seemed to be bothering. The bus stopped frequently to pick up new passengers as it headed down to Palermo and it was starting to fill up with people. At one point, an attractive lady boarded and we did see her stamping her ticket at a little machine a few seats away from us. Taking a seat kitty corner to us, she must have noticed our struggle to figure out the ticket stamping process because, with a small gesture indicating she could help, she took the tickets from us and stamped them herself. We thanked her, of course, and started, between the two of us, pondering our next dilemma. Because there was no route map on the bus and no stops were announced, we had no idea how we would recognize our stop at the Piazza Indipendenza, where we would need to get off in order to make our way to the Norman Palace. Again, this lovely lady came to our rescue, asking us in American-accented English if she could help. Turned out, she was a certified tour guide for the city of Palermo who grew up in Los Angeles and was on her way to meet a client.
For the next 15 minutes of the bus ride we chatted with her and enjoyed every minute of the conversation which covered a variety of topics from Sicilian dialects to the diversity of the Sicilian people. She highly recommended that we visit the archeological museum not far from our hotel where there was a temporary exhibit of a beautiful greek bowl made of gold originally discovered in Sicily. The bowl had disappeared for years and it had only recently been returned to Italy. She was happy it had come back to Palermo, if only temporarily and we promised to visit the museum to see the exhibit.
We all got off together when the bus stopped at the Piazza Indipendenza and she walked part way with us so she could point out the entry to the Norman Palace across the piazza. That lovely lady, whose name was Jacqueline Alio, gave us her card, and it was only when we got back to our hotel and looked her up online did we realize that she has been called one of Sicily's leading historians. She has published several books and has four available right now on Amazon. One of those, Women of Sicily, Saints, Queens and Rebels, I purchased for my history loving daughter for Christmas.
We can only imagine what a wonder tour guide Jacqueline Alio would be in Palermo. Her passion for the history and the people of Sicily was so apparent and she taught us a lot in only 15 minutes. Sharing that crowded bus ride with her was truly a treat and an honor and we'd like to thank her again for her kindness and generosity to us.
Nov 8th, 2017, 02:01 PM
#27
Signing on and enjoying your writing. Sicily is one of my favorite places.
BTW, a maps app on a smart phone makes traveling by bus very much easier - but then you might have missed the serendipitous encounter with Jacqueline Alio.
Also, if you go through JFK again, you might find the AirTrain (free) a better way to reach T1. http://www.panynj.gov/airports/jfk-airtrain.html
BTW, a maps app on a smart phone makes traveling by bus very much easier - but then you might have missed the serendipitous encounter with Jacqueline Alio.
Also, if you go through JFK again, you might find the AirTrain (free) a better way to reach T1. http://www.panynj.gov/airports/jfk-airtrain.html
Nov 8th, 2017, 02:09 PM
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Thanks, thursdaysd. Those sound like two good suggestions. I should have spent more time researching ways to get around JFK. Lesson learned. And smartphones are wonderful, aren't they. Never thought to use it on the bus but we certainly will next time.
Nov 8th, 2017, 02:51 PM
#29
If you ask Google maps how to get from A to B by public transport it will tell you when the bus will arrive, what number it is, how many stops, and how much it will cost. Then it shows you where to find the bus stop, and you can follow the route once you are on the bus. So much less stressful - but less contact with locals.
Nov 8th, 2017, 03:51 PM
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Our First, and Last, Full Day in Palermo Continued.
After leaving Jacqueline Alio, we visited the Capella Palatine in the Norman Palace. Again, almost every surface of the chapel was covered with mosaics like Monreale, but in a more intimate space with even more brilliant colors, it seemed. The smaller spaces worked to magnify the intensity of it all, I think, and the effect was amazing. Lovely!
A visit to the Museo Archeological, as recommended by Jacqueline, seemed like a good way to end our day of sightseeing in Palermo. We figured we had plenty of time, as a check of the museum's website stated that it would be opened until 6:30. That should be sufficient, we thought, to see the golden bowl and other highlights. But oh-oh. We had heard about the capriciousness of business hours in Sicily. We arrived at the entrance at about 4:50, only to find the gate shut. Thinking we might be at the wrong entrance, we wandered around the block but saw no other way in. When we got back to the front gate, it was still closed but slightly ajar. Steve pushed the gate open and went up the steps where a guard stopped him (very pleasantly) and showed him a piece of copy paper taped to the door. Hours: Open til 5:30 today and obviously no entry after 4:30. Oh well. We had a few hours in the morning before we had to head to the airport to pick up our rental car. So we could come back in the morning and to see what we could see.
For dinner that night we went to the same restaurant as the night before, Trattoria del Massimo because we could be accommodated there at 7:30 and other recommended spots didn't open til 8:00. We both had good meals again. For me, salad with veal, tomatoes and cheese. Steve had veal scallopini. The bill, with a glass of wine each and a bottle of sparkling water came to about 40 euros.
After dinner, we walked back by the Teatro Massimo to our hotel and settled down for the night after a wonderful day. Tomorrow we would leave Palermo after a visit to the Archeological Museum, pick up our rental car, and head to our 5 night stay in Scopello.
After leaving Jacqueline Alio, we visited the Capella Palatine in the Norman Palace. Again, almost every surface of the chapel was covered with mosaics like Monreale, but in a more intimate space with even more brilliant colors, it seemed. The smaller spaces worked to magnify the intensity of it all, I think, and the effect was amazing. Lovely!
A visit to the Museo Archeological, as recommended by Jacqueline, seemed like a good way to end our day of sightseeing in Palermo. We figured we had plenty of time, as a check of the museum's website stated that it would be opened until 6:30. That should be sufficient, we thought, to see the golden bowl and other highlights. But oh-oh. We had heard about the capriciousness of business hours in Sicily. We arrived at the entrance at about 4:50, only to find the gate shut. Thinking we might be at the wrong entrance, we wandered around the block but saw no other way in. When we got back to the front gate, it was still closed but slightly ajar. Steve pushed the gate open and went up the steps where a guard stopped him (very pleasantly) and showed him a piece of copy paper taped to the door. Hours: Open til 5:30 today and obviously no entry after 4:30. Oh well. We had a few hours in the morning before we had to head to the airport to pick up our rental car. So we could come back in the morning and to see what we could see.
For dinner that night we went to the same restaurant as the night before, Trattoria del Massimo because we could be accommodated there at 7:30 and other recommended spots didn't open til 8:00. We both had good meals again. For me, salad with veal, tomatoes and cheese. Steve had veal scallopini. The bill, with a glass of wine each and a bottle of sparkling water came to about 40 euros.
After dinner, we walked back by the Teatro Massimo to our hotel and settled down for the night after a wonderful day. Tomorrow we would leave Palermo after a visit to the Archeological Museum, pick up our rental car, and head to our 5 night stay in Scopello.
Nov 9th, 2017, 11:18 AM
#35
Candace we only just used a smartphone this last holiday and it is a lifesaver! We left our teens at home and had to use the technology ourselves, sometimes I just forgot that I could check things like bus stops. But people are so kind, and as you found, it often leads to lovely interactions, we even had a waiter drive us home after dinner!
I'll be saving your report if I ever get to plan a Sicily trip.
I'll be saving your report if I ever get to plan a Sicily trip.
Nov 9th, 2017, 03:20 PM
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Leely 2, "short & sweet" is the perfect description of our visit to Palermo too.
You are right, Adelaidean, people are so kind. Traveling to different countries and cultures always reinforces for me the notion that we are all so much more alike than we are different. It is so obvious that people everywhere very much love their children, are proud of their hometowns, like to share traditional foods, and are willing to extend their hand to someone who needs help. I am so thankful for the opportunities I have had to travel. Wherever we go we always seem to have the good fortune to meet kind, generous, and friendly people.
Thank you, everyone, for your encouragement.
You are right, Adelaidean, people are so kind. Traveling to different countries and cultures always reinforces for me the notion that we are all so much more alike than we are different. It is so obvious that people everywhere very much love their children, are proud of their hometowns, like to share traditional foods, and are willing to extend their hand to someone who needs help. I am so thankful for the opportunities I have had to travel. Wherever we go we always seem to have the good fortune to meet kind, generous, and friendly people.
Thank you, everyone, for your encouragement.
Nov 10th, 2017, 03:22 PM
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From Palermo to Scopello, Eventually.
Another sunny morning dawned, and after a good breakfast in our room at the Hotel Massimo Plaza, we set out for Palermo's archeological museum, the Museo Archeologico Regionale Salinas. With only a few hours available before we had to leave for the airport to pick up our rental car, we could only hit the museum's highlights.
Immediately upon entering the museum, we turned to the right and came upon the special exhibit area displaying the famous golden bowl, "La Phiale Aurea". suspended in a clear case in the center of the room. The amazing gold sphere, intricately carved on one side with acorns and bees, and inscribed with a Greek inscription around the edge, dazzled like a small sun. Jacqueline Alio had told us the story of its loss and recovery and how wonderful it was to have it back in Palermo so Sicilians could have the opportunity to see it. We loved having that opportunity also.
After taking some time to view the bowl from every side, we returned to the main entrance and proceeded to the sunlit area straight ahead. The museum was housed in a former monastery founded in the 17th century, and this area contained a lovely fountain surrounded by a set of cloisters. The fountain and its pool were bathed in natural light and turtles swan lazily in circles. Artfully placed artifacts around the pool set the scene for the statuary, jewelry, bronzes and pottery displayed further along the museum's corridors in interesting, and uncluttered, order. Finally we entered a series of rooms with friezes and other artifacts recovered from the temple sites at Selinunte. Very imposing and a big incentive to visit the site where these treasures were originally situated. It was time to go, but we wished we had more time to spend in this lovely museum. Reluctantly we made our way back to the hotel to checkout and meet the taxi which would take us to the airport to pick up our rental car. The taxi arranged by the hotel was waiting for us across the piazza and we were soon on our way toward our next destination, Scopello.
A final word about the Hotel Massimo Plaza, which turned out to be a really good place for us to stay in Palermo. the location was great, within easy walking distance of many sites. The staff was helpful and genuinely friendly. Upon arrival, as a welcome, we were served glasses of procecco and a dish of snacks in our room. The room with its little balcony and the ever changing view below was perfect for us. We loved being served breakfast in our room each morning. We think almost anyone visiting Palermo would like this hotel. The only problem might be accessibility for guests with mobility issues. Once you pass though the entry doors from the street below, the reception desk is up a long flight of stairs. There is no elevator but plenty of help with luggage is available.
Our car rental at the airport though Europcar went fairly smoothly, although we did end up with a larger car than we originally reserved. We had heard that this was a common occurrence in Sicily, although we aren't sure why the rental company would want to do this to customers, as the charge for the larger car is the same as the smaller one originally chosen. Having a larger car did turn out to have consequences for us at one point along the way. However, before long we were pulling out of the parking lot, on our way to Scopello. Or so we hoped.
We had arranged for a gps to be part of our rental package. On our last trips in Portugal and France, the rental gps worked out great. Not this time. We had trouble with it almost right away and were soon taking wrong turns one after another. Eventually, with frayed nerves, we gave up on it altogether and (shout out to Adelaidean) programmed our smartphone. The smartphone proved to be lots smarter than the gps and we soon found our way to our destination in Scopello.
Another sunny morning dawned, and after a good breakfast in our room at the Hotel Massimo Plaza, we set out for Palermo's archeological museum, the Museo Archeologico Regionale Salinas. With only a few hours available before we had to leave for the airport to pick up our rental car, we could only hit the museum's highlights.
Immediately upon entering the museum, we turned to the right and came upon the special exhibit area displaying the famous golden bowl, "La Phiale Aurea". suspended in a clear case in the center of the room. The amazing gold sphere, intricately carved on one side with acorns and bees, and inscribed with a Greek inscription around the edge, dazzled like a small sun. Jacqueline Alio had told us the story of its loss and recovery and how wonderful it was to have it back in Palermo so Sicilians could have the opportunity to see it. We loved having that opportunity also.
After taking some time to view the bowl from every side, we returned to the main entrance and proceeded to the sunlit area straight ahead. The museum was housed in a former monastery founded in the 17th century, and this area contained a lovely fountain surrounded by a set of cloisters. The fountain and its pool were bathed in natural light and turtles swan lazily in circles. Artfully placed artifacts around the pool set the scene for the statuary, jewelry, bronzes and pottery displayed further along the museum's corridors in interesting, and uncluttered, order. Finally we entered a series of rooms with friezes and other artifacts recovered from the temple sites at Selinunte. Very imposing and a big incentive to visit the site where these treasures were originally situated. It was time to go, but we wished we had more time to spend in this lovely museum. Reluctantly we made our way back to the hotel to checkout and meet the taxi which would take us to the airport to pick up our rental car. The taxi arranged by the hotel was waiting for us across the piazza and we were soon on our way toward our next destination, Scopello.
A final word about the Hotel Massimo Plaza, which turned out to be a really good place for us to stay in Palermo. the location was great, within easy walking distance of many sites. The staff was helpful and genuinely friendly. Upon arrival, as a welcome, we were served glasses of procecco and a dish of snacks in our room. The room with its little balcony and the ever changing view below was perfect for us. We loved being served breakfast in our room each morning. We think almost anyone visiting Palermo would like this hotel. The only problem might be accessibility for guests with mobility issues. Once you pass though the entry doors from the street below, the reception desk is up a long flight of stairs. There is no elevator but plenty of help with luggage is available.
Our car rental at the airport though Europcar went fairly smoothly, although we did end up with a larger car than we originally reserved. We had heard that this was a common occurrence in Sicily, although we aren't sure why the rental company would want to do this to customers, as the charge for the larger car is the same as the smaller one originally chosen. Having a larger car did turn out to have consequences for us at one point along the way. However, before long we were pulling out of the parking lot, on our way to Scopello. Or so we hoped.
We had arranged for a gps to be part of our rental package. On our last trips in Portugal and France, the rental gps worked out great. Not this time. We had trouble with it almost right away and were soon taking wrong turns one after another. Eventually, with frayed nerves, we gave up on it altogether and (shout out to Adelaidean) programmed our smartphone. The smartphone proved to be lots smarter than the gps and we soon found our way to our destination in Scopello.
Nov 10th, 2017, 04:15 PM
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Candace,
What a lucky thing to run into Jackie Alio on the bus! Amazing timing. I did a half day walking tour with her on my first day in Palermo and just loved it. Her knowledge was impressive and we had some fun talking about southern CA since I was born there. Highly recommend her services to anyone reading, but she is very busy so plan far ahead.
Cant wait to hear about Scopello.
What a lucky thing to run into Jackie Alio on the bus! Amazing timing. I did a half day walking tour with her on my first day in Palermo and just loved it. Her knowledge was impressive and we had some fun talking about southern CA since I was born there. Highly recommend her services to anyone reading, but she is very busy so plan far ahead.
Cant wait to hear about Scopello.
