belted_galloway

That's actually bang on right for the UK.

What sort of car was it?

We had a Land Rover which was eating tyres at £300 each.

Just replaced 3 on our two cars and paid between £130 and £190.

Cathinjoetown

Really enjoying this! I have always wanted to go to Alnwick and Beamish, great descriptions and tips for places to stay and eat. Thanks and looking forward to more.

Gordon_R

<i>That's actually bang on right for the UK.</i> Oh no it isn't! You'd struggle to pay anything like that at Quickfit or ATS unless you have a very high spec tyre requirement and go for the top of the range brand. For a typical hire car saloon I'd expect to get a new tyre for approx £70-£80 fitted. If you're paying much more than that, you're being ripped off too.

janisj

But I doubt there is anything like a 'QuickFit' in a place like Rothbury . . . am I right??

Gordon_R

Well there's a Kwikfit and an ATS about 13 miles away in Morpeth. But if you couldn't replace the wheel by the spare yourself I can see how you had no option.

Rothbury - wasn't that the place where that headcase who went round shooting people made his last stand against the police?

janisj

Yep. But that was well before I arrived

http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage...l-targets.html

http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2010/ju...olice-rothbury

ron

I wonder what is motivating Gordon R and Belted Galloway to keep trying to highjack Janis's really interesting trip report? Is there nothing going on in the Lounge to keep them amused?

janisj

<B>Sunday: Ribblehead, Hawes, Bolton Castle, Jervaulx Abbey, Middleham Castle - & Motorcycles.</B>

yet <i>another</i> HOT day. First breakfast. Very good - order off menu. But honestly - Breakfast is served from 8:45-9:30. At 8:45 sharp as a signal that b'fast is being served, the house is filled w/ patriotic music. Several others were seen stifling giggles, so it wasn't just me Most of the tables were occupied so she had an almost full house.

First off I head out to Ribblehead to see the viaduct. This was a difficult drive -- really beautiful but hard since there were (no exaggeration) hundreds and hundreds of motorcycles. Not just on the narrow B6255, but everywhere I went all day --motorcycles in 1's, 2's, groups of 15. I've never seen anything like it except here in Calif. when they are holding bike races at Infineon Raceway and every motorcycle in 10 counties converges on the place. Where do all these people come from??!

http://tinyurl.com/6rgsho8

Then I retrace my route back to Hawes. It is Sunday so there are no tours of the creamery, but I bought 2 or 3 cheeses and some crackers. The tasting room has about 20 different samples -- maybe more.

From Hawes -more bloody motorcycle - on to Bolton Castle.I figured I'd get off the main road (A684--I 'think' to avoid the crowds. So I take a unclassified rd - narrow and even MORE bikes Where do all these people come from??!

Bolton was really interesting -a tad bit confusing because one had to go through the tea shop to get in/out/or into the grounds. This is a well preserved medieval castle that was still lived in until the mid 20th century. Mary QoS and Civil War connections and a pretty interesting history all around.

Unfortunately the roses/gardens weren't blooming but the gardens were pretty anyway. Had tea and scones in the tea shop.

http://www.boltoncastle.co.uk/metadot/index.pl

It was mid-afternoon and I decided to head down to Jervaulx Abbey which is absolutely beautiful. (MORE motorcycles!) There are extensive remains and the setting is so pretty. A lot of it reminds me of Inchmahome. Jervaulx is privately owned and there is just an honesty box to pay the entrance charge. I didn't have the right change so paid after my visit at the cafe on my way back to the car park.

http://www.jervaulxabbey.com/home.php
http://tinyurl.com/7g27krf

After Jervaulx, I still had time to squeeze in a stop at Middleham Castle. It is much larger than I expected and you can climb up and over all of it. The views from up top must cover 3 counties.

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/d...dleham-castle/
http://tinyurl.com/6q2fll3

When I get back to the B&B, new guests had checked in - w/ 3 motorcycles! We were chatting in the lounge and I was asking why I'd seen soooooo many all day/everywhere. Tony explained there was no 'event' or rally - it was just a nice weekend and the Dales are a major biker destination. That is why they came out on Sunday evening - to miss the big crowds on the weekend. I talked about riding in the Sierra Nevada/foothills years ago w/ my ex and that I missed it (though riding also makes me nervous). One thing led to another and he offered to give me a ride. So I had a pre-dinner ride on the back of a Honda NT. We were out for about half and hour and went up behind the B&B past the National Park visitors center back around into Aysgarth.

Tony's wife Rose had her own bike but didn't ride out w/ us. They were a fun couple from outside Newcastle I'd guess in their early 40's. They were only staying the one night and then heading south to Wharfdale.

After freshening up, I walked down to the George & Dragon for my 2nd dinner there. Duck Breast w/ braised cabbage and a three chocolate dessert sampler. YUMMO!!! (tonight it was Simon & Garfunkle )

<B>Next: Long hot day roaming through the Dales, Bolton Abbey, Scarhouse Reservoir, Middlesmoor and the Yorke Arms</B>

janisj

ron: Didn't see your post. Not to worry - It doesn't bother me at all. Gordon gave me a LOT of help for the Jersey part of the trip and 'Belted' and I have a 'history'

LindaL

Loving your trip report, Janis. Such wonderful castles and villages. I was going to say it wasn't that crowded until I got to the motorcycles!!!

belted_galloway

God help anyone wo tries to hijack one of our Janis' trip reports.

I reregistered for this, that's the effort I made to come to this party. Janis will have made her usual pedestrian effort of driving at 27 miles an hour!

Motorbikes on a sunny day in North Yorkshire have become a pain, particualry when you are sat enjoying the peace of somewhere like Jervaulx. We were last there 18 months ago, in the snow, on a Monday. Magical experience.

Gordon_R

Ron - your comments are uncalled for. I am genuinely reading Janis's TR with interest (and especially waiting for the Jersey bit as I provided some small input to this). My contribution was relevant and not at all "hijacking" the thread.

Mathieu

Janis, really enjoying reading this (and Belted and Gordon's spirited banter/commentaries). I've been to the UK so many times and have a ton of relatives and friends all over the place; we've done some terrific short trips to pretty places and homes and gardens together, but now I'm hooked on doing a longer driving trip like yours. Scotland sounds (and looks) just as beautiful as my folks keep telling me, and I've always wanted to visit the Dales and Pennines.

Stifled a guffaw at the 'Purple Haze' room at Stowhouse. Reminded me of a B&B room in Bourton-on-the-water, except it was RED. Like being in hell.

Great job, looking fwd to more.

TDudette

ttt

GreenDragon

I thoroughly enjoyed Jervaulx Abbey as well. I loved the fact that nature was completely retaking the area. Incredibly picturesque. When I was there, there was bright pink fireweed growing all over it. Here's a pic: http://www.greendragonartist.com/Gal...deJervaulx.jpg

janisj

<B>Monday - Long hot day roaming through the Dales, Bolton Abbey, Scarhouse Reservoir, Middlesmoor and the Yorke Arms</B>

Patriotic music @ 0830 - time for another good breakfast. Yesterday the house was nearly fully booked, today only 3 tables are occupied - me, the bikers and a Grandmother/mother/20 yo daughter.

I'm on the road by a bit after 0900 - today was going to be a sort of a big S/SW loop as far as Bolton Abbey, Fountains Abbey, Pateley Bridge, Scar House Reservoir/Middlesmoor ending up w/ dinner in Nidderdale at the Yorke Arms in Ramsgill and back to Aysgarth.

So I had a bit of a dilemma - it is another <B><red>HOT</B></red> so I need to dress really light/casually, but I also want to be fairly smart at the Yorke Arms. best I could do -- a nice white shirt and light weight slacks but threw a pretty scarf in the back of the car to 'dress it up a bit' tonight.

First stop is West Burton - not far from Aysgarth. This is a small village w/ a HUGE green and pretty waterfalls. I was walking across the green taking photos and a woman came out of one of the houses walking an Airedale. I don't have a dog now but have always had Scotties and Airedales (usually one of each at the same time). I love LOVE Airedales! So of course I had to stop and make kissy face w/ the dog (darn -- I thought I wrote down her name but it doesn't seem to be in my notes). She was a lovely old thing and very friendly. The owner (also a lovely/friendly old thing ) wanted to drop some trash in a distant bin and asked if I minded watching her dog for a minute. Would I?! So here I am in the Dales, walking my favorite dog, on a lovely warm morning. Life is good.

We say our goodbyes and I start to walk to the other end of the village to look at the Falls. A car pulls up and parks sort of in my path and as I walk around the car I glance in the back of the estate and what do I see but TWO Airedales!! My goodness. I'll go a month or more w/o seeing one and here are three in one tiny village. More Airedale luvin' before I break away to visit the waterfall, which was really pretty in dappled sunlight - and nice respite from the heat that was already building.

http://tinyurl.com/7lnpc24

Next stop, Hubberholme, which is a tiny place on the River Wharfe down a crazy/skinny single track rd. I only stopped for maybe 30 minutes - didn't go in the pub which looks really interesting (but wouldn't have been able face that road after a 1/2pint )

My main reason for visiting was to see the church - it was founded in the 12th century and some of the original Norman bits are still there. I suppose its main claim to fame nowadays are the pews carvings by Robert Thompson -- the famous Mouseman. Plus there is also a memorial to JB Priestley who is buried there.

From there - on to Bolton Abbey. This place is magnificent. Just really pretty. It was very hot by this time and the river was full of swimmers/waders/just-dangling-ones-toes-in-the water-ers/anglers

It is quite a massive complex - besides the abbey/grounds there are shops, cafes, post office.

http://www.boltonabbey.com/
http://tinyurl.com/7jqexp3

Have to run some errands so will pick up w/ Pateley bridge this evening.

<B>Next: Pateley Bridge > Scar House, Middlesmoor and the Yorke Arms (and 'the road is closed')

belted_galloway

Hear, hear, Gordon.

janisj

Pateley Bridge > Scar House, Middlesmoor and the Yorke Arms (and OMG 'the road is closed')

After Bolton Abbey, I travel east to Pateley Bridge - checked in at the TIC for some info and hit the next door cash machine. It is a busy little town - I know I had and afternoon tea -- but for the life of me can't remember the name of the place. I do know it was yummy though. I would have liked to explore a bit more but it was really just a tea, cash and petrol stop

My original plan was to now head over to Fountains Abbey - but I've been there a few times and to be honest -- today is just too darn hot. I am actually using the ac in my little car.

I change plans and drive up Nidderdale (take a peek at exactly where the Yorke Arms is - wow - what a pretty place). On through Lofthouse. Morgana had given me really good directions for the water district road out to Scar House reservoir . . . and a good thing too since it didn't show in my road atlas. (not the first time today I'll be on a 'missing' road).

It is quite a drive out to the reservoir on a beautiful road -- and I didn't pass another car the entire distance. I was beginning to think 'what am I getting myself into?" Finally get to the car park and there are three or four other cars there and a handful of people. What a desolate/beautiful place. Back in the '20 when the dam was being built this was a town w/ nearly 1500 residents. The only remains are a few foundations.

I walked across the dam and just a little ways along the far side of the lake then back to the car park - again didn't pass a single car on the way out.

http://tinyurl.com/7qvfr8c

Then I drove up into Middlesmoor - what a neat little village. Houses/cottages squeezed in every which way up and down quite steep/narrow lanes. The village has the feeling it is sitting at the end of the world. The church is quite interesting and the views from the church yard must include the whole dale w/ a couple of lakes/reservoirs off in the distance. Not only did my pitiful road atlas not show the Scar House rd -- Middlesmoor wasn't there either (but thanks to Morgana I knew exactly where I was).

Sat on a bench for maybe 30mins talking to a couple from Leeds w/ a jack Russell and a sort of cockapoo-looking cuite, who were exploring the area for the first time. I was relieved to find out that even these 'locals' felt some of the roads were crazy skinny!

Back when planning the trip I was trying to work in a meal at the Yorke Arms. Sunday lunch would have been perfect-but it would have also eaten up an entire afternoon of my too limited time in the Dales. SoI rang them up and booked for Monday night. I wanted the earliest seating --not because I like dining that early, but because I figured I'd have quite a drive back to Aysgarth and wanted it to be mostly in daylight -so 7PM it was.

I draped my posh scarf to dress up and went inside this lovely place. I sat in the lounge and ordered a glass of white figuring I should only have one because of the long drive 'home'. Then while sitting there I glanced upat the back bar and saw a bottle of Pimms . . . This is definitely Pimm's weather! So signal for the bar man and sheepishly explain that while the wine is lovely, and I'll certainly pay for it, I'd really like a Pimms instead. And it WAS lovely

They brought in the amuse bouche -- which was actually 4 different really yummy bites.

then I was invited into the dining room -- I was the only one (after all it was awfully early). There were two couples drinking out front and before I left two other parties were seated in a different dining room.

I really enjoyed the Yorke Arms -- and the service was amazing. But unfortunately I didn't enjoy the meal as much as it deserved. As I may have mentioned once or twice it was very hot all day and I think I just got too much sun. All of a sudden I just didn't feel that good.

I soldiered through - and it definitely wasn't the restaurants 'fault'

After dinner I asked if there was a way to get over towards the A6108 w/o going all the way back to Pateley Bridge and Ripon. Yes - there is a 'good' road from Lofthouse over the top of the moor ending down near Jervaulx. Perfect, so about 8:15 I head out to find my way home. Found the road no problem -another singletrack but no problem because it is still quite light out and there are no other cars. It is a really beautiful road and my head (and stomach) begin to feel better. After several really lonely miles, I pass one car -- OK so I'm not too far from civilization. Cross a couple of Cattle grids and press on - maybe another 5 miles . . . And a big sign "Road closed ahead!" WTF!! Why wasn't that mentioned before -- like back in Lofthouse??? What to do? I come to the closed bit - do I press on or turn around and drive back to Pateley over to Ripon and back north - probably 50 miles in all.

Then I remember that one car I'd passed. I figured it must have come through this way. So I drove a few hundred yards on the rutted dirt road and all of a sudden -- back on a normal paved road. PHEW! That was pretty hairy. I got to the 6108 and knew my way from there. Past Jervaulx and Middleham and up to Aysgarth rolling into the B&B just as it was getting dark - that may have been a 'short cut' but it still took more than an hour.

and so to bed . . .

Next: Canceled flight, Finding a way to Jersey, and a wonderful upgrade

Morgana

Really glad you liked Middlesmoor etc - Nidderdale really is lovely and much quieter than many of the Dales. Your description of Scarhouse is spot on ('desolate/beautiful'). We've occasionally gone out there in winter, but it can be bleak even in mid summer. Very atmospheric though.
I agree with the service at the Yorke Arms. I don't go half as often as I'd like, but when I do go the staff remember me by name and are really lovely. And the food is amazing! We've stayed overnight as couple of times too on special occasions, and it's a wonderful place to wake up and have one of their fabulous breakfasts.

Bokhara2

Mmmm just stumbled on your little gem, janisj - saving to savour with a red later on. Thank you