Russia river cruise - trip report
Jul 26th, 2007, 07:05 AM
#41
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Like Happytrvlr, we wish we had been able to extend our Viking cruise and add a few more days in St. Petersburg. We saw enough of Moscow, but would have loved more time in St. Petersburg.
And, being there during the White Nights is amazing! Anyone planning a trip should definitely try to time it for the White Nights.
Enjoying your reports althom1122!
And, being there during the White Nights is amazing! Anyone planning a trip should definitely try to time it for the White Nights.
Enjoying your reports althom1122!
Jul 26th, 2007, 03:59 PM
#42
Regarding the shower in our cabin - it was actually quite nice. The bathroom is small and the shower head is indeed right there between the toilet and sink. However, there's a curtain that pulls around in front of the toilet so you're showering only in the sink area. And the water does not pour onto the sink. Plus, the floor is designed such that there's this slightly raised mat that the water drains through - so water does not collect on the floor. When you first look at it, you think oh no, this is going to be a pain. But in fact, it was incredibly efficient. Toilet doesn't get wet. Sink doesn't get wet. Floor is clean and drains quickly. My only caution - be sure to turn the water so that it flows back into the sink when you finish your shower. If you just turn off and leave it so that it comes out of the shower, um, the next person who comes in and turns on the water thinking it's going to come out of the sink could get, um, an unexpected shower. Heehee. I did that once to my sister... (not on purpose!) 
Jul 26th, 2007, 06:03 PM
#44
DAY AT SEA - DRAGONFLIES BEWARE!!
Ok, back on track... I had forgotten when I wrote my last entry that our full day at sea came right after Yaraslovl. I was afraid I’d be bored (as some of you have wondered about), but it turned out to be a delightful day.
After breakfast we had a morning lecture by Professor Margarita, with whom we had traipsed through 10 centuries of Russian history a few days earlier. This time her topic was Russia Today. We learned some interesting facts:
- Life expectancy is 59 for men, 73 for women - a significant demographic problem
- The official language is Russian, but 100 other languages are spoken
- 99.5 percent of the population above age 10 is literate
- Population is 143 million; 75 million are Russian Orthodox; 20 million Muslim; 1 million Jewish
- In 1800, 80 percent of the world’s Jews lived in Russia
- During WWII, 2.5 million Jews were killed in the USSR
- In 1974 the US offered the USSR most-favored nation status if it would allow Soviet Jews to emigrate
- In 1990, the peak of the exodus, 188,000 Jews left; from 1992-95, 65,000 left each year
- 1 million remain (about 7 percent of the world's population)
- In 1992 inflation was 2,500 %; ’97 - 11%; ’98 - 84% (financial collapse); 2006 - 10%; plans for 2009 - 4%
Interesting facts, but it was her personal stories that really captivated us. She repeatedly emphasized that Russia is an infant as a nation - just 16 years old - and that the young have no recollection of the Soviet days. Just history to them -but quite vivid to her. She told of the time, years ago, when she stood in line to buy a sweater. In those days, you stood in line for everything, and when you finally arrived at the front, you could only buy one of whatever it was you were waiting for. She stood for six hours to buy that sweater. Now, at home, every year when they go through old clothes to give to charity, her daughter suggests getting rid of that old sweater. It no longer fits, so what good is it? she asks. But Margarita says she can’t part with it - it’s a reminder of the hardship of those days and the contrast to their current way of life. Year after year the sweater stays. The “memorial sweater” her daughter calls it.
It was a wonderful presentation.
Shortly thereafter, we returned to the cabin, where one of the more memorable episodes of our journey awaited: The Giant Dragonfly Encounter. (Subtitle - Russia: much more than just art, churches, palaces, and history.) As we closed the door behind us, we heard what sounded like a WWI bomber buzz by, and we ducked as we caught a glimpse of the Red Baron just before he smacked into our window. Ok, not exactly the Red Baron. More like the Green Dragonfly. But dragonfly doesn’t quite convey what this hummer looked like. We are talking one humongous insect. I’m fairly certain if I could have lassoed him, he’d have taken me on a ride, like a parasail. So his arrival in our small, closed-in cabin was cause for a flurry of activity.
My sister, ever the brave one, grabbed a cup to try capturing him against the window. Oops, missed. He buzzes around. Oops, missed. He buzzes. Oops... you get the idea. We are laughing and frantic at the same time.
About then two young crew women, early 20s, walked by our window. (All the cabins faced out - and on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th decks, there was a walkway around the boat that allowed people to walk right next to your cabin - so if you had the curtains open and were standing at the window, you were literally face to face with them.) So they came face to face with my sister as she was wildly waving a styrofoam cup back and forth - staying just a moment behind a dragonfly that was wildly flitting back and forth.
They stopped to help - it was probably the most entertaining sight they'd seen all day. Even better, they seemed sympathetic to our plight (they tried to keep from laughing). And best of all, they saw the solution - which had eluded us in our moment of panic - right away. They motioned for us to simply...open the window! Ta-dah! We did so, and one of the women actually reached her arm in and shooed the big guy right out. We all laughed once the "danger" had passed and they went their merry way. Not a word exchanged (other than "spasiba" [thank you]. I don't think they spoke any English - but there was full understanding on both sides.
One of our ongoing jokes on the trip concerned our housekeepers, Elena and Yana (there was a card in our cabin with their names on it). We never did see them, but we used their names in vain regularly.
“Karen, you ate all that chocolate already?”
“No, not me. Must have been Elena.”
“Sis, I can’t find that little guidebook...”
“I bet Yana hid it. You know how she is.”
“I can’t believe you left the water on in the shower. I got soaked!”
“I think it might have been Elena.”
Everything became Elena and Yana’s fault. Heehee. UNTIL the dragonfly encounter. Although we never knew for sure, somehow we sensed that the two young women who came to our rescue just might have been Elena and Yana...
The rest of the day flew by, as they all did. I agonized over some scarves and jewelry in the gift shop. Did some reading. Talked to some fellow passengers. Walked around the deck. Sat outside and watched the shore go by. Ah, here’s another lock to go through - better get my camera. Now we’re coming to a big lake. There’s a flooded church. Normally I’m bored with “nothing to do” - but it just wasn’t that way. Always something happening. And lots of things to look forward to...
I didn’t tell you much about Russia in this installment... and yet... I did.
Next time - the wheelhouse tour with the captain - and as mentioned before, Kizhi Island.
Ok, back on track... I had forgotten when I wrote my last entry that our full day at sea came right after Yaraslovl. I was afraid I’d be bored (as some of you have wondered about), but it turned out to be a delightful day.
After breakfast we had a morning lecture by Professor Margarita, with whom we had traipsed through 10 centuries of Russian history a few days earlier. This time her topic was Russia Today. We learned some interesting facts:
- Life expectancy is 59 for men, 73 for women - a significant demographic problem
- The official language is Russian, but 100 other languages are spoken
- 99.5 percent of the population above age 10 is literate
- Population is 143 million; 75 million are Russian Orthodox; 20 million Muslim; 1 million Jewish
- In 1800, 80 percent of the world’s Jews lived in Russia
- During WWII, 2.5 million Jews were killed in the USSR
- In 1974 the US offered the USSR most-favored nation status if it would allow Soviet Jews to emigrate
- In 1990, the peak of the exodus, 188,000 Jews left; from 1992-95, 65,000 left each year
- 1 million remain (about 7 percent of the world's population)
- In 1992 inflation was 2,500 %; ’97 - 11%; ’98 - 84% (financial collapse); 2006 - 10%; plans for 2009 - 4%
Interesting facts, but it was her personal stories that really captivated us. She repeatedly emphasized that Russia is an infant as a nation - just 16 years old - and that the young have no recollection of the Soviet days. Just history to them -but quite vivid to her. She told of the time, years ago, when she stood in line to buy a sweater. In those days, you stood in line for everything, and when you finally arrived at the front, you could only buy one of whatever it was you were waiting for. She stood for six hours to buy that sweater. Now, at home, every year when they go through old clothes to give to charity, her daughter suggests getting rid of that old sweater. It no longer fits, so what good is it? she asks. But Margarita says she can’t part with it - it’s a reminder of the hardship of those days and the contrast to their current way of life. Year after year the sweater stays. The “memorial sweater” her daughter calls it.
It was a wonderful presentation.
Shortly thereafter, we returned to the cabin, where one of the more memorable episodes of our journey awaited: The Giant Dragonfly Encounter. (Subtitle - Russia: much more than just art, churches, palaces, and history.) As we closed the door behind us, we heard what sounded like a WWI bomber buzz by, and we ducked as we caught a glimpse of the Red Baron just before he smacked into our window. Ok, not exactly the Red Baron. More like the Green Dragonfly. But dragonfly doesn’t quite convey what this hummer looked like. We are talking one humongous insect. I’m fairly certain if I could have lassoed him, he’d have taken me on a ride, like a parasail. So his arrival in our small, closed-in cabin was cause for a flurry of activity.
My sister, ever the brave one, grabbed a cup to try capturing him against the window. Oops, missed. He buzzes around. Oops, missed. He buzzes. Oops... you get the idea. We are laughing and frantic at the same time.
About then two young crew women, early 20s, walked by our window. (All the cabins faced out - and on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th decks, there was a walkway around the boat that allowed people to walk right next to your cabin - so if you had the curtains open and were standing at the window, you were literally face to face with them.) So they came face to face with my sister as she was wildly waving a styrofoam cup back and forth - staying just a moment behind a dragonfly that was wildly flitting back and forth.
They stopped to help - it was probably the most entertaining sight they'd seen all day. Even better, they seemed sympathetic to our plight (they tried to keep from laughing). And best of all, they saw the solution - which had eluded us in our moment of panic - right away. They motioned for us to simply...open the window! Ta-dah! We did so, and one of the women actually reached her arm in and shooed the big guy right out. We all laughed once the "danger" had passed and they went their merry way. Not a word exchanged (other than "spasiba" [thank you]. I don't think they spoke any English - but there was full understanding on both sides.
One of our ongoing jokes on the trip concerned our housekeepers, Elena and Yana (there was a card in our cabin with their names on it). We never did see them, but we used their names in vain regularly.
“Karen, you ate all that chocolate already?”
“No, not me. Must have been Elena.”
“Sis, I can’t find that little guidebook...”
“I bet Yana hid it. You know how she is.”
“I can’t believe you left the water on in the shower. I got soaked!”
“I think it might have been Elena.”
Everything became Elena and Yana’s fault. Heehee. UNTIL the dragonfly encounter. Although we never knew for sure, somehow we sensed that the two young women who came to our rescue just might have been Elena and Yana...
The rest of the day flew by, as they all did. I agonized over some scarves and jewelry in the gift shop. Did some reading. Talked to some fellow passengers. Walked around the deck. Sat outside and watched the shore go by. Ah, here’s another lock to go through - better get my camera. Now we’re coming to a big lake. There’s a flooded church. Normally I’m bored with “nothing to do” - but it just wasn’t that way. Always something happening. And lots of things to look forward to...
I didn’t tell you much about Russia in this installment... and yet... I did.
Next time - the wheelhouse tour with the captain - and as mentioned before, Kizhi Island.
Jul 27th, 2007, 02:58 AM
#45
Thanks, djk! And yes, timing your trip to be there during White Nights is definitely worth it. We loved the long, long days. And St. Petersburg seems positively alive. Will be telling you about our time there shortly!
Jul 30th, 2007, 04:12 PM
#46
KIZHI ISLAND
The next morning we signed up for a tour of the “wheelhouse” with the captain (who reminded me of gymnastics coach Bela Karolyi). With eyes twinkling and a slightly shy manner, he gave a 20-minute overview of the boat and its vital statistics all in Russian (translated by one of the crewmembers): speed, water displacement, fuel capacity, etc. Mildly entertaining/interesting. Nice view. Cute captain (cuter than Bela).
Our stop that day was Kizhi Island. The book “Russia by River” (provided to each cabin by Intrav) describes it this way: “...home to an outdoor museum of fascinating edifices of northern wooden architecture... churches, chapels, bell towers, peasant homes, granaries, barns, windmills bathhouses - and the focal point, the ‘Kizhi ensemble,’ comprising the awe-inspiring Transfiguration Cathedral, the Intercession Church, and the bell tower between them.”
Accurate, if inadequate, description. I think it’s a fairytale land where you’re whisked back in time to an indeterminate date and a place not on any map. Where the air is clearer, the sunshine brighter, and the colors more vivid. And there just might be a knight on a white horse riding across the field to rescue a damsel in distress (with any luck, me). Ok, so, I’m a hopeless and cheesy romantic...
The weather nearly put a damper on my fantasies. Although it had been a beautiful morning, black clouds rolled in and settled over the ship as we docked, and they opened up just as we filed off the boat. We walked for about 20 minutes in a steady downpour - the only rain of our entire trip.
Still, there was a sense of excitement and anticipation, and we were all smiles despite the rain. It’s hard to describe, but this place just “felt” different. After passing a few shops clustered around the dock, we were out in the country - seemingly in a different world. To our right was the water - with tall grass breaking the ripples and bending in the breeze, an old blue boat just offshore, and rays of sunshine streaming through the clouds. To our left were fields of grass, wildflowers, occasional stands of aspens, an old stick fence built without nails - and off in the distance unpainted onion domes, reminiscent of Norway’s stave churches but for the characteristic Orthodox shape.
As we approached the Kizhi ensemble, the rain let up, the sun broke through, and the sky turned a deep blue. It was awesome. The architectural statistics are impressive: 30,000 shingles, 22 cupolas, five tiers. But it wasn’t about statistics - it was simply gorgeous, and the sunshine made the aspen wood “shimmer like silver” - just as the book said.
We were given an hour tour of the island, during which we passed small churches, a cemetery overlooking the blue lake, a large windmill, and various other structures. We saw the numerous icons inside the Intercession Church (the Transfiguration Cathedral isn’t open to the public - they’re doing some work on it). We saw an old man with a long beard plowing a field with a horse (see my pictures). We saw a woman weaving. We heard stories of how people lived in the olden days. We heard a man play the bells in one of the church steeples. And mostly we just strolled and breathed the air and, of course, took lots of pictures. It really did feel like being in a fairytale.
Back on the boat, we departed just as we sat down to dinner at a table overlooking the stern. We were able to watch the Kizhi ensemble and the island slowly recede into the distance, the evening sun casting a lovely glow. For me, Kizhi Island - especially that view of it from the boat’s dining room - was one of the highlights of the trip. All-in-all a magical day.
And with that, I’ll end for the day. More later. I realize I'm not giving you a lot of practical info/tips - but I hope some of you are hanging in there anyway. Feel free to ask if I'm leaving out detils that are of interest.
The next morning we signed up for a tour of the “wheelhouse” with the captain (who reminded me of gymnastics coach Bela Karolyi). With eyes twinkling and a slightly shy manner, he gave a 20-minute overview of the boat and its vital statistics all in Russian (translated by one of the crewmembers): speed, water displacement, fuel capacity, etc. Mildly entertaining/interesting. Nice view. Cute captain (cuter than Bela).
Our stop that day was Kizhi Island. The book “Russia by River” (provided to each cabin by Intrav) describes it this way: “...home to an outdoor museum of fascinating edifices of northern wooden architecture... churches, chapels, bell towers, peasant homes, granaries, barns, windmills bathhouses - and the focal point, the ‘Kizhi ensemble,’ comprising the awe-inspiring Transfiguration Cathedral, the Intercession Church, and the bell tower between them.”
Accurate, if inadequate, description. I think it’s a fairytale land where you’re whisked back in time to an indeterminate date and a place not on any map. Where the air is clearer, the sunshine brighter, and the colors more vivid. And there just might be a knight on a white horse riding across the field to rescue a damsel in distress (with any luck, me). Ok, so, I’m a hopeless and cheesy romantic...
The weather nearly put a damper on my fantasies. Although it had been a beautiful morning, black clouds rolled in and settled over the ship as we docked, and they opened up just as we filed off the boat. We walked for about 20 minutes in a steady downpour - the only rain of our entire trip.
Still, there was a sense of excitement and anticipation, and we were all smiles despite the rain. It’s hard to describe, but this place just “felt” different. After passing a few shops clustered around the dock, we were out in the country - seemingly in a different world. To our right was the water - with tall grass breaking the ripples and bending in the breeze, an old blue boat just offshore, and rays of sunshine streaming through the clouds. To our left were fields of grass, wildflowers, occasional stands of aspens, an old stick fence built without nails - and off in the distance unpainted onion domes, reminiscent of Norway’s stave churches but for the characteristic Orthodox shape.
As we approached the Kizhi ensemble, the rain let up, the sun broke through, and the sky turned a deep blue. It was awesome. The architectural statistics are impressive: 30,000 shingles, 22 cupolas, five tiers. But it wasn’t about statistics - it was simply gorgeous, and the sunshine made the aspen wood “shimmer like silver” - just as the book said.
We were given an hour tour of the island, during which we passed small churches, a cemetery overlooking the blue lake, a large windmill, and various other structures. We saw the numerous icons inside the Intercession Church (the Transfiguration Cathedral isn’t open to the public - they’re doing some work on it). We saw an old man with a long beard plowing a field with a horse (see my pictures). We saw a woman weaving. We heard stories of how people lived in the olden days. We heard a man play the bells in one of the church steeples. And mostly we just strolled and breathed the air and, of course, took lots of pictures. It really did feel like being in a fairytale.
Back on the boat, we departed just as we sat down to dinner at a table overlooking the stern. We were able to watch the Kizhi ensemble and the island slowly recede into the distance, the evening sun casting a lovely glow. For me, Kizhi Island - especially that view of it from the boat’s dining room - was one of the highlights of the trip. All-in-all a magical day.
And with that, I’ll end for the day. More later. I realize I'm not giving you a lot of practical info/tips - but I hope some of you are hanging in there anyway. Feel free to ask if I'm leaving out detils that are of interest.
Jul 30th, 2007, 06:22 PM
#47
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Still here, and enjoying every word!
Gosh, but timing is everything! We did the river tour in mid-June. We had packed extra layers, expecting Kizhi to be the chilliest, windiest, day of the cruise. Instead, it was the best day weatherwise! Sunshine, blue skies with only a few puffy white clouds, temps in the 70's, no wind! We couldn't believe it! It rained about half the time we were in Saint Petersburg.
For sure, the panorma of the village upon arrival in port is stunning. And, the Transfiguration Church...imagine - no nails!
althom: Are they still moving additional buildings to the island?
Gosh, but timing is everything! We did the river tour in mid-June. We had packed extra layers, expecting Kizhi to be the chilliest, windiest, day of the cruise. Instead, it was the best day weatherwise! Sunshine, blue skies with only a few puffy white clouds, temps in the 70's, no wind! We couldn't believe it! It rained about half the time we were in Saint Petersburg.
For sure, the panorma of the village upon arrival in port is stunning. And, the Transfiguration Church...imagine - no nails!
althom: Are they still moving additional buildings to the island?
Jul 31st, 2007, 03:53 PM
#48
dj - I don't know if they're moving add'l buildings there, but they are definitely working on the ensemble. Both the bell tower and the cathedral were closed to visitors and they said they were working to reopen them. I'd love to have seen the inside of the cathedral.
Jul 31st, 2007, 04:30 PM
#49
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althom...really enjoying your account. I am plodding through my trip report going the opposite way of course! You started in Moscow and we in St. P..
As far as smoking Teddy limited it to Deck 5 only. We had just a few smokers and I did see one person smoking on Deck 4. We didn't have an issue and I hate second hand smoke!
I'm looking forward to hearing what you thought about Mandrogi as I just posted about that stop........not impressed but maybe you have a different insight.
Cell phones work well by the way, all the way up/down the river.
It is so funny that we are both posting at the same time about this river cruise when I had to go back to 2002 and dkjbooks when we were planning our trip!
As far as smoking Teddy limited it to Deck 5 only. We had just a few smokers and I did see one person smoking on Deck 4. We didn't have an issue and I hate second hand smoke!
I'm looking forward to hearing what you thought about Mandrogi as I just posted about that stop........not impressed but maybe you have a different insight.
Cell phones work well by the way, all the way up/down the river.
It is so funny that we are both posting at the same time about this river cruise when I had to go back to 2002 and dkjbooks when we were planning our trip!
Aug 5th, 2007, 06:42 AM
#50
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I finally had time to look at your pictures. I really enjoyed your detail shots. Also I was glad to see pictures of the dramatis persona. Thanks! (Bet you wished you could instantly delete many of those wires which seemed to crisscross in front of many of the beatiful buildings.)
Hope you have time to finish this report soon!
Hope you have time to finish this report soon!
Sep 6th, 2007, 06:47 PM
#53
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We leave for Moscow next week and for sure, I will buy a pair of those felt slippers and I am generally NOT a shopper. Your report is so interesting; you have had fun reliving your vacation. Thank you for sharing with all of us. Hope you get to St. Pete's before we depart
Katherine
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