Rome Trip Report -- Nov 1-8
Nov 13th, 2007, 08:31 PM
#22
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Ever hear of taking the vacuum cleaner out when someone arrives unannounced, so it will at least LOOK like you're cleaning the house? Maybe they've done that with the cement and tile ... you never actually fix the courtyard, but it always looks like you're in the middle of it!
Nov 14th, 2007, 01:25 AM
#23
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LOL! Never done that...but only because I didn't think of it!
Speaking of construction, something I noticed in Rome last week. Last year, we loved the scaffolding drapes painted to look like a building. This trip I never saw one. Has something changed or was I just less observant?
Speaking of construction, something I noticed in Rome last week. Last year, we loved the scaffolding drapes painted to look like a building. This trip I never saw one. Has something changed or was I just less observant?
Nov 14th, 2007, 03:34 AM
#24
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amyb--I really enjoyed your trip report.
Since you mention that you liked the Ross King book and got interested in Bernini on this trip, you might want to read Jake Morrissey's The Genius in the Design: Bernini, Borromini and the Rivalry that Transformed Rome. (I got it after a family trip to Rome earlier this year and enjoyed it after the trip, though I wished I had read it before) The Lost Painting by Jonathan Harr is also a good read about Caravaggio
Our family stayed at an apartment in the ghetto about 2 blocks away from the Area Sacra dell'Argentina and we stopped several times a day to watch and count the cats in the ruins.
You should definitely visit the Pinacoteca on your next trip to Rome--much less crowded than the sistine Chapel and Raphael rooms and full of amazing works including, in addition to those already mentioned,
the Deposition by Caravaggio and Giotto's Stefaneschi Triptych
Since you mention that you liked the Ross King book and got interested in Bernini on this trip, you might want to read Jake Morrissey's The Genius in the Design: Bernini, Borromini and the Rivalry that Transformed Rome. (I got it after a family trip to Rome earlier this year and enjoyed it after the trip, though I wished I had read it before) The Lost Painting by Jonathan Harr is also a good read about Caravaggio
Our family stayed at an apartment in the ghetto about 2 blocks away from the Area Sacra dell'Argentina and we stopped several times a day to watch and count the cats in the ruins.
You should definitely visit the Pinacoteca on your next trip to Rome--much less crowded than the sistine Chapel and Raphael rooms and full of amazing works including, in addition to those already mentioned,
the Deposition by Caravaggio and Giotto's Stefaneschi Triptych
Nov 14th, 2007, 04:50 AM
#25
Original Poster
Thanks for all the feedback...
A confession, if I may...I visited Rome for 8 hours on a day trip in 2002 and really didn't feel the love, which is why I managed to avoid it on repeated trips since then. I don't know what possessed me to go back now, but I am still walking about dreamy-eyed thinking about it. Just goes to show, you *cannot* get the feel of a place in a day!
I neglected to mention also used a guide book by Fodors, I believe called "Holy Rome" which was printed for the Jubilee in 2000 and had a writeup on just about every church in Rome (seriously!), which is how I picked where I wanted to go and was able to at least read something about every church I was in whereas regular guidebooks only cover the biggies. I picked this up used on Half.com and will certainly keep it for future reference.
Sally, the Caravaggio walk was 60E per person and I booked it about 6 weeks ahead online. Helen Donegan's Vatican Museum tour was 250E and I booked it in May and booked my airfare and hotel around the date! She only offers it a few times a month, so you really have to plan ahead.
Vttraveler, I have already read The Lost Painting, and enjoyed that one. I will certainly add the Bernini/Borromini book to my list. I found it interesting that depending on who I asked, I got different answers as to how deep the "rivalry" was.
A confession, if I may...I visited Rome for 8 hours on a day trip in 2002 and really didn't feel the love, which is why I managed to avoid it on repeated trips since then. I don't know what possessed me to go back now, but I am still walking about dreamy-eyed thinking about it. Just goes to show, you *cannot* get the feel of a place in a day!
I neglected to mention also used a guide book by Fodors, I believe called "Holy Rome" which was printed for the Jubilee in 2000 and had a writeup on just about every church in Rome (seriously!), which is how I picked where I wanted to go and was able to at least read something about every church I was in whereas regular guidebooks only cover the biggies. I picked this up used on Half.com and will certainly keep it for future reference.
Sally, the Caravaggio walk was 60E per person and I booked it about 6 weeks ahead online. Helen Donegan's Vatican Museum tour was 250E and I booked it in May and booked my airfare and hotel around the date! She only offers it a few times a month, so you really have to plan ahead.
Vttraveler, I have already read The Lost Painting, and enjoyed that one. I will certainly add the Bernini/Borromini book to my list. I found it interesting that depending on who I asked, I got different answers as to how deep the "rivalry" was.
Nov 15th, 2007, 09:40 AM
#26
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Amy, IMO Roma is so rich and complex that a short first-time visit is often destined to leave one frustrated and definitely not in love. You read over and over here about folks who had 36 hrs, 48 hrs etc and just didn't like Rome. I had a similar experience my first trip: 4 or 5 hours with a friend who then took me to the town where he and his wife were living, and a day on my own later. "Too hot, too rushed (and I live in NYC) and too tiring" were my thoughts at the time, I believe. Add too dense and charmless.
When I came back for ten days a couple of years later, Rome hadn't changed, but my experience of Rome did. One of my favorite places ...
When I came back for ten days a couple of years later, Rome hadn't changed, but my experience of Rome did. One of my favorite places ...
Nov 15th, 2007, 12:12 PM
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Amyb - thanks for a great report. I like the way you manage to give the facts but also your impressions in such a succinct manner.
We may have to do the after hours tour of the Vatican Museums next trip. When we went I wanted to spend time in the Map Room and nearly got swept away by the herd heading for the Sistene Chapel!
Sorry you didn't find San Crispina. It's a couple blocks from the Trevi Fountain and doesn't have a store front with gelato piled high. But it does have wonderful gelato with some very unique flavors. The pear gelato was wonderful!
We may have to do the after hours tour of the Vatican Museums next trip. When we went I wanted to spend time in the Map Room and nearly got swept away by the herd heading for the Sistene Chapel!
Sorry you didn't find San Crispina. It's a couple blocks from the Trevi Fountain and doesn't have a store front with gelato piled high. But it does have wonderful gelato with some very unique flavors. The pear gelato was wonderful!
Nov 15th, 2007, 06:29 PM
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Thanks Amy for the price info.
To add to the gelato discussion, I really didn't like Giolitti this trip (well, as much as you can dislike any gelato). One of our favorite places was a dumpy looking place called Tutti Frutti (groan) that was near the Largo Argentina. Another great place was next to Da Baffeto (which I would NOT recommend unless you feel like waiting over an hour for a pizza that is good but not much better than other good pizza in Rome). My favorite place was on via dei coronari (I think). They had all these amazing unusual flavors. not very helpful I realize but I'll try to remember the name or give a better location.
To add to the gelato discussion, I really didn't like Giolitti this trip (well, as much as you can dislike any gelato). One of our favorite places was a dumpy looking place called Tutti Frutti (groan) that was near the Largo Argentina. Another great place was next to Da Baffeto (which I would NOT recommend unless you feel like waiting over an hour for a pizza that is good but not much better than other good pizza in Rome). My favorite place was on via dei coronari (I think). They had all these amazing unusual flavors. not very helpful I realize but I'll try to remember the name or give a better location.
Nov 15th, 2007, 07:30 PM
#29
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Tutti Frutti may sound corny to our American ears (anyone know the pop song of that name from the 50s - "Gotta gal, named Sue, she knows just what to do ... A-bop-bop-a-loo-bop, a whop bam boo."
but it's a much love gelateria!
but it's a much love gelateria!
Nov 16th, 2007, 05:33 AM
#30
Original Poster
Perhaps that's why I didn't find San Crispino, I was wandering in the dark and looking for the obvious enticing display of tubs of gelato...
Posting pictures, if you're still reading along:
http://tinyurl.com/29xnad
Barbara, it will whet your appetite to see how vacant the corridor with the maps was in the Vatican Museum when we were there on the after hours tour!
And as if I need further encouragement, I now have a half-dozen or so gelato recommendations from you all. Guess I'll have to go back!
Posting pictures, if you're still reading along:
http://tinyurl.com/29xnad
Barbara, it will whet your appetite to see how vacant the corridor with the maps was in the Vatican Museum when we were there on the after hours tour!
And as if I need further encouragement, I now have a half-dozen or so gelato recommendations from you all. Guess I'll have to go back!
Nov 16th, 2007, 07:34 AM
#31
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Bookmarking to read later. Thanks for sharing - I always love your reports and I love Rome.
I usually travel with either my DH or, most often, our whole family (meaning DH and our 2 sons, ages 13 and 16). I have also traveled with a girlfriend. However, I have read a number of solo reports recently (JeanneB, travelgirl2, TRSW, and others) that have gotten me wishing for some of the experiences and freedoms that only an individual trip allows. Hmmmm....
I usually travel with either my DH or, most often, our whole family (meaning DH and our 2 sons, ages 13 and 16). I have also traveled with a girlfriend. However, I have read a number of solo reports recently (JeanneB, travelgirl2, TRSW, and others) that have gotten me wishing for some of the experiences and freedoms that only an individual trip allows. Hmmmm....
Nov 16th, 2007, 08:11 AM
#32
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Just do it, Fun4All4! I will admit that on this trip more than any other, I wish I had someone to turn to and share my awe and breathless excitement. But trade that for the ability to be totally whimsical, change plans on a dime and meet a lot of wonderful people who really influenced my experience, well, that's kind of priceless.
Nov 16th, 2007, 08:36 AM
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Amy, loved the report...I too will be a solo female traveler 1 Dec - 7 Dec. So glad to hear your feedback on Context as I'm booked on 2 of their tours. I also have tickets to the Scavi tour and am very excited.
I have a question about the Vatican After Hours tour...I'm with you on the feeling of crowds esp. for such a place. Did you truly feel it was worth the 250E price?
Many thanks!
I have a question about the Vatican After Hours tour...I'm with you on the feeling of crowds esp. for such a place. Did you truly feel it was worth the 250E price?
Many thanks!
Nov 16th, 2007, 09:06 AM
#34
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Travel_girl67, I thought it was worth it and I'd go back do it again. Honestly! But I truly love both Raphael and Michelangelo, and their works are where you spend the bulk of your time. For me, 45 minutes basically alone in the Sistine Chapel was a dream. I think if you have only a passing interest in either artist's work, it might not be as worthwhile for you. But the others on my tour also felt that it was one of those "priceless" experiences.
Nov 16th, 2007, 09:10 AM
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Amy - thanks for the pictures! You're right - I'm envious of your tour of the Vatican Museums. We're definately doing that tour next time if we can! I'm also amazed that they let you take pictures in the Sistene Chapel. When we were in there with the masses, no photos were allowed.
We liked our Context Roma Antica tour as well, but we started at the Colosseum and spent more time than I would have liked. We breezed through the forum and ended with the Palentine which is an area we were more interested in and would have liked to spend more time.
Thanks too for the reassurance about traveling alone. I have an opportunity to go back to Italy next fall - Parma for a week with a group but then by myself after that.
We liked our Context Roma Antica tour as well, but we started at the Colosseum and spent more time than I would have liked. We breezed through the forum and ended with the Palentine which is an area we were more interested in and would have liked to spend more time.
Thanks too for the reassurance about traveling alone. I have an opportunity to go back to Italy next fall - Parma for a week with a group but then by myself after that.
Nov 16th, 2007, 10:53 AM
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Thanks Amy! I just sent an email requesting a ticket for 6 December...my last night in Rome and I think it would a perfect way to spend my last few hours in the city. The last time I was in the Sistine Chapel was 20 years ago and most of the ceiling was covered for some restoration and there were hourds of people so this tour is perfect for me. Thanks again!
Nov 17th, 2007, 09:44 AM
#37
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travelgirl, you will be absolutely astounded by the colors then, if the last time you saw it was pre-restoration. They are just so vibrant. I agree, it's a wonderful way to end your trip!!! Please let me know how you make out.
Nov 17th, 2007, 07:06 PM
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Amyb - rec'd email from Helen and if 11 more folks don't sign up, the tour will be canceled so I've posted a thread to see if any Fodorites will be in Rome and interested in the tour. I'm keeping my fingers crossed as I really want to take the tour...esp after looking at your pic...you're right, the colors are amazing!
I'll post a report upon my return.
I'll post a report upon my return.
Nov 18th, 2007, 12:39 PM
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Hi Amy,
I'm glad you enjoyed the Largo Argentina section of my Julius Caesar Assassination Walk.
After 5yrs of emailing it and posting it someone has finally admitted to actually taking it...Thanks.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34646917
This one about St. Peter's tomb might also interest you even though it is after the fact. Just skip over the ticket and entrance parts.
Even as a heathen myself I do believe it is his tomb.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34888402
Glad you had a wonderful trip and great tripreport and pictures. Regards, Walter
I'm glad you enjoyed the Largo Argentina section of my Julius Caesar Assassination Walk.
After 5yrs of emailing it and posting it someone has finally admitted to actually taking it...Thanks
.http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34646917
This one about St. Peter's tomb might also interest you even though it is after the fact. Just skip over the ticket and entrance parts.
Even as a heathen myself I do believe it is his tomb.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34888402
Glad you had a wonderful trip and great tripreport and pictures. Regards, Walter
