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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 08:40 PM
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Wanderer,

you have some beautiful shots. I am bookmarking your trip report for my one week trip in May.
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Old Nov 7th, 2006, 01:20 AM
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On to shops!! But before that, I have remembered the lunch spot we ate at near the Colosseum. Pasqualine - (Via dei Santissimi Quatro 66) - not bad food, decent prices, a view of the Colosseum while you eat from the outdoor tables.

There was also a Panini bar we ate at right in the Campo that had good sandwiches. It is one the corner of Via dei Cancelleri and has outside seating (stools) - if they don't have what you want, they will fix it for you. The name escapes me now - sorry (starts with an "A" - bright yellow umbrellas - you'd see it if you walked toward Via Pellegrino).

OK, the shops...

Every trip I've been on, I scour my many guidebooks, and write down shops I want to visit with their address, times open, etc. Invariably, as happened in Venice, I can't find the shop - it's closed, can't find the street, etc.

This happened in Rome, and I realized by day 2 I was spending more time looking for shops than enjoying my surroundings, and missing out on potential shops right in my path!! Did I miss out on some? Yes, I really wanted a pair of Italian leather gloves, but so wanted to get away from the crowds at the Spanish Steps that I didn't even try to find the store.

That being said, these shops are some that we stumbled upon, and some that our apartment owners showed us.

Bookstores:
We are big book readers on vacation (airport, at night, etc.) and so scout out good bookstores every time we are away - here are a few:

Bibli - bookstore in Trastevere - we found it to be only Italian books, but it is cute

The Almost Corner Bookstore - (via del Moro 43)Trastevere - we loved this bookstore. It is all English - great selections. Got a great book here called "A Traveler in Rome" by V.H. Morton. It's an account of V.H. Morton's days in Rome in the 1950s. Highly recommend. Had I known about the book, I would have read it prior to my trip.

Feltrinelli - this is like an Italian Barnes and Noble. Also has music. Good selection of English books. There are several of them around Rome. We went to the one at Largo Argentina.

Libreria Del Viaggiatore - (Via del Pellegrino 78) - this store was shown to us by our apt. owners. It is combo English/Italian, and is 100% travel books. I was like a kid in a candy store!! This is where I found the V.H. Morton book (The Almost Corner Bookshop also carries it).

Foodstuffs:

Roscioli Bakery - (Via dei Chiavari). The sign outside says simply "Forno" in big bright yellow letters. They are the ones that carry the pizza bianca slices.

Roscioli Alimentari - (Via dei Giubbonari 21-22) - carries great selection of wine, cheese, meats, prepared foods, coffee, etc. www.anticofornoroscioli.com. They are sons of the Roscioli bakery.

Bernasconi - (16 Piazza B. Cairoli) - Cake and coffee shop

Bar Rossana - (Via dei Chiavari) - Coffee bar

NamesTey - (Piazza del Paradiso 69) - Very nice tea shop. Tea is imported from around the world, and you get to smell, taste, and select. They also have to-die-for chocolate balls filled with goodies - orange, etc. Cute tea accessories also - cups, canisters, all very, very nice. Daniella is the shop owner - she speaks perfect English. Was in the corporate world for a long time in Marketing and decided to open this shop since she loves tea so much. She also has a lovely, quiet tea room upstairs, where you can relax and also savor one of her homemade cakes.
http://www.namastey.it/

Punta SMA - Supermarket - (Via del Monte della Farina) - street behind Via dei Chiavari. Basic small supermarket. Aspirin and other things we are used to buying in a supermarket, you need to get at a Pharmacy (green cross signed stores). One hint - if you buy milk, make sure to buy "Latte fresco", fresh whole milk American-style, not "latte a lunga conservazione" which is a horrible-tasting milk laced with chemicals.

Clothing:

I didn't buy alot of clothing in Rome. Via dei Giubbonari has some nice shops, mid-range - you just have to go in an look.

I did buy a wool jacket at one of the market stalls at Campo de Fiori on the day the temps dropped to 50 because I was freezing. The stall is around the corner from the main Campo, on Piazza della Cancellaria. It looks cute, is 100% wool, and was only 29E, kept me warm, so if it falls apart in a week who cares.

I was a bit dismayed by all the "blanket people" with their fake goods. Some people buy them, but I found it annoying to be hawked all the time. I finally just learned to not even look at them and say "NO" firmly so they would leave me alone.

Emporium Balloon - (Via dei Chiavari) - this is an outlet store of very nice clothing - silk blouses, corduroys, sweaters, etc. It is a "remainder" shop, and prices are very, very low. Silk blouses for 15E, nice corduroy pants for 20E, etc. All new. They have dressing rooms. I only spent a little time here, as I was dressed in many layers and didn't feel like trying things on, as you must here. But if you have some time to poke around, very, very good deals. Also a small men's selection at the back - shirts, ties, etc.

Other:

This was my favorite store in all of Rome. If you go here, do NOT bring a purse of backpack - it is filled to the brim in a tiny, tiny little shop (actually not so tiny, just jammed with things - all very breakable).

Sciam/Vetro Soffiato - (Via del Pellegrino 55) - Glass shop - You must go to see - I've never seen anything like it. Glass beads, vases, beautiful drinking glasses, everything in glass. Room after room after room. I had my heart set on buying a set of their glasses, but was afraid of how I would get them home. I know better now that I should have bought and had them shipped. Very special place. The shop is very tiny, easy to miss don't know if there is a sign. One the left coming from Campo de Fiori.

Visit Via Giulia (beautiful street) and also Via Pellegrino and Via Cappellari. The streets are named for the artisans - Via dei Chiavari was keymakers, Via Cappellari is hat makers, and has many wonderful artisan shops as does Via Pellegrino.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Rome is a beautiful city which if you take in small doses and wander, you will come to love. Regardless of what is said, it is very safe if you are as cautious as you would be in any big city. We always used a money belt because we realized that as tourists alot of times we are distracted by maps, trying to find our way and could become an easy target. We also carried - thanks to a poster on this board - a Metro Bar 200 which is anti-theft - wire in the shoulder strap so it can't be cut, tamper-proof zippers, etc. We wore it across the shoulder as recommended by our apartment owners so that it could not be pulled off easily. Money for the day we kept out and accessible.

We were dismayed by the graffiti (as we were in Venice) and the steet beggers - especially the children who would come to us daily while we had our coffee and put out their hand for money. It really is sad. What bothered us more, though, was the mothers with babies sitting in the cold street begging, or with small puppies. It is a terrible thing to say, but you almost come to be hardened to it after awhile.

Anyway, that is all I can think of for now. If anyone has questions I will be happy to answer and be of help in any way I can.










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Old Nov 7th, 2006, 01:31 AM
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Loving the report - you take things at my sort of pace. glad you enjoyed the food - we just got back from florence and IMO, the food in rome was better and cheaper. Gelati were twice the price we'd paid in rome, at least.
I'm off to Venice on thursday - wonder how much gelati are there?
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Old Nov 7th, 2006, 01:49 AM
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Then you MUST got to Nico's in Venice - it is on the Zattere - great setting - #922. You can sit at outdoor tables, or stroll the Fondamente.

There is also another Gelateria at 49 Campo Santa Margherita - I think called Il Dodge.

We actually liked the Gelato in Venice better than Rome, but we didn't try Il Crispino, so perhaps not a fair comparison
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Old Nov 7th, 2006, 12:37 PM
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Thanks for the tips, wanderer; the weather forecast is not good for venice at the moment which may curtail too much sitting out doors, but what do those forecasters know?
Regards
Ann
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Old Nov 7th, 2006, 01:40 PM
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I wouldn't put too much stock in the forecasters. We had a forecast of mostly rain, and had beautiful mid-70 degree weather almost all week in Rome.
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 03:58 AM
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p.s. Could someone please explain to me how it is that Italians do not get fat?

With all the wine, bread, and pasta they eat, not to mention all the courses and dessert, I just don't understand it. I know their portion sizes are smaller, but that can't be the whole story.

Is it the walking or lack of processed food(s) or something else?
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 04:14 AM
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Wanderer, yes it is both. I think they eat regularly enough that they do not overeat or compulsively eat. They generally maintain a higher metabolism due to exercise; even if taking the bus or train, they still need to walk to the bus stop or station. Around 2002, I read a study that stated Italians had both the lowest obesity rate and the lowest suicide rate in Western Europe.

BC
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 04:37 AM
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"p.s. Could someone please explain to me how it is that Italians do not get fat?"

I've heard this comment before and I just don't get it. Have you ever been to Italy? I see groups of obese women standing around talking. I see very heavy men eating their pastas at lunch. And sadly I see tons of fat little kids running around. What parts of Italy have you NOT been to? When you see fat people in Italy are you just assuming they must be visiting Americans? Sorry, but that just isn't true.
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 05:24 AM
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wanderer,
As I said earlier, I am going to Rome for the first time in April. I have a question or two about the Vatican museums.

What day and what time did you go?

How long did you spend at the museums/Sistine Chapel?

I'm curious what you thought of the Egyptian Rooms?

Thanks,

Bill
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 05:52 AM
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I cannot find the link to send an email to see if the apt is available when we want to go in January. Can you post the email address?
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 06:19 AM
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Hello everybody
we would like to take this opportunity for thanking Wanderer for her lovely thoughts about our home and for replying about the comments that have been made about our services.

We are very sorry that the lack of pricing information on our website has caused such a distress for NeoPatrick and probably several other visitors.

Our rental fee varies quite a lot according to the season, the length of stay, eventual utilities and extra services available, special offers at the time of inquiry, etc. In this sense we have preferred to encourage a more direct contact with our potential guests instead of making a lengthy list of prices to be updated more and more frequently every month.

Regarding susiedq's missing reply to her inquiry we are also very sorry that this has happened. To answer as soon as possible - and definitely not later than 12 hours - is one of our outmost priorities. Italian internet providers are not very good, though, and lately we often have had problems with our mail server. That's why we advice to try again in case of no reply. If susiedq decided not to contact us again and preferred to book with someone else is just very unfortunate for us. Sorry for that.

Regarding NeoPatrick's "I suppose their goal is to only attract people for whom price is NOT a priority.", we must say that this can be also true, but not in the way he intends it.

This apartment has been our home until our daughter was born. We believe that our home it's not the kind of tourist-flat to just come and sleep-in at night. It is a very special place, it should be shared by somebody who is sensitive enough to feel its history and beauty. If the priority is to look for the cheapest place in town, our apartment is simply not right. Price in this sense is not a priority that's true.

We are definitely not rich and experience everyday the difficulty of a limited budget, believe us. Nevertheless, for us personal contact, kindness and respect is of outmost interest. This has nothing to do with our prices. We actually are very selective on our guests and it is not rarely that we do not accept bookings from somebody we feel is not on our same wave-length. On the other end, because of the apartment's location (read "property taxes" here), it's age (800 years!) and its very special needs in the upkeeping, it's probably difficult for us to hold a truly competitive rental fee respect other places in town.

We hope that this clarifies a bit our situation and we are always at your disposal for further information and details.

Lastly, thank you all very much for your interest in our home. We sincerely hope to meet you all in Rome in the future!

Our very best regards

Massimo and Biancamaria
http://www.rome-is-home.com
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 07:08 AM
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To rome-is-home.com: I think it is your prerogative to do whatever you want with your website as it is your home you are advertising. But like many others when I want to rent a place, I would first look at the location, then the pictures and the price in that order. Not having an idea how much a place would cost me makes me abandon that particular place. I won't even bother emailing the owner as FOR ME it would be a waste of time more so if I could not afford it. You could put in your website a thing like "prices starting at $1000,low season, for a week's stay but for shorter stays, please email us". That way we, the public, would have at least an idea whether to pursue it or not.Just my 2 cents.
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 10:23 AM
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wanderer, thank you so much for your very thorough report! I am in Rome right now (until the 18th) and have noted a few shops and restaurants you have mentioned that I will want to check out. (esp. the glass shop, which sounds lovely)

Btw, I did not find the gelato in Florence to be more expensive than what I have had here in Rome so far. It has been roughly 2E for a small cup everywhere I've gone (including Vivoli, in Firenze). But the best gelato I've had on my trip so far has been in Siena.
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 01:34 PM
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jamq:
Re: your Vatican question(s).

We were there the week of All Saint's Day, so 2 of the days the Vatican was closed - Sunday and Wed (All St's Day).

We had originally planned to go on Mon/Tues. but were still so jet lagged we couldn't face getting up so early just yet.

We ended up going on Thurs, since we were leaving on Sat at 6AM and wanted to have Fri as a buffer day - just in case...

We left the apartment at 7am, walked the 5 min to Largo Argentina and opted for a cab for a couple of reasons - I had a bad blister on my foot and knew we would be doing a fair amount of walking in the museum/church, we wanted to get there ASAP, as we were running a little late, and it was cold and drizzly.

We arrived in line at 7:15am, and they opened the doors at 8:45. When we got there, we were shocked to see the line was already half-way down the street. Many of the guidebooks will tell you to wait and go later in the afternoon, but the Vatican was on Winter time, and closed at 12:30, so we had no choice.

We opted for just a few galleries so that we wouldn't get overloaded. The line was quick to get in - beware that they make you run your camera through security at the door - I am sure that is how we lost a whole roll of pictures.

The guidebooks mentioned they have several different tour "routes" clearly mapped out, with one-way only direction, but we could find neither a map nor floor markings, so just followed the signs to where we wanted to go.

We loved the Egyptian Museum - I had never seen a real mummy before! Really interesting stuff. We could have spent the whole time here (until 12:30 close), but instead opted to call it quits @11:30am and head to St. Peters.

The last thing on your tour should be the Sistine Chapel. The time you spend here will depend on how much time you spend looking at the ceiling and reading about the works. The room is packed, and all the side seats were taken, so everyone was just standing there with necks craned. You cannot take pictures here, but surprisingly they allowed them everywhere else.

I was a bit underwhelmed by the Chapel. It is beautiful, but in a kind of austere way. Serene. Smaller than I anticipated. Still very lovely.

Make sure to go out the back door on your right, not the one on your left. This will deposit you in the line for the Dome, which you should stay in. You have a choice to go partway up via elevator, or then continue on via stairs. We missed out on this getting out of the line not knowing what line we were in.

We spent about 1 - 1 1/2 hours in St. Peters. Breathtaking. So much detail to see here. Be sure to kiss St. Peter's foot!! Again, we couldn't find the maps, but it is layed out very simply. Most guidebooks also have a map of where things are. The Pieta is on your right as you come in.

I would definitely check the Vatican web site before you go - they sometimes change their hours, and also call them the day before just to confirm. I believe you can set up tours through the Vatican, and also set up a tour of the Gardens - these need to be done in advance.

A hint - since there is a Papal Audience most Wednesdays, this tends to be a less crowded day to go. We would have done this had it not been All Saints Day.

I definitely would not go on the "free Sunday" (last Sunday of the month) or a weekend day. We found the tour group crowds oppressive in some of the rooms. It can get a bit claustrophic.

You'll love it - some many world treasures - it's hard to comprehend...
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 01:52 PM
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sandi_travelnut -

Here is the email for the Rome Is Home apartment:

[email protected]
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 01:53 PM
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p.s.s.

Also check Slowtrav.com

You can find additional reviews from people who have stayed there.
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 03:16 PM
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Wanderer
I enjoyed your wonderful trip report. You mention a few times - Trastevere. We will be staying in Trastevere at Hotel Santa Maria in May 2007. What more can you tell us about this section of Rome and things to do, see and enjoy in Trastevere?
Thank you for your help
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 05:33 PM
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wanderer,

Thanks so much for your detailed answer! The Egyptian Rooms and the Etruscan Rooms are high on our list, as our the map rooms.

I'd always assumed that the Vatican and St. Peters would be places to avoid on Wednesday because of the papal audience. I think we will end up going on a Thursday or a Friday.

Thanks again.

-Bill

-Bill
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Old Nov 9th, 2006, 02:57 AM
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Gohedwig -
We spent about 1/2 day in Trastevere. There aren't really many "sights" here except for Santa Maria in Trastavere - beautiful church, and piazza of the same name. Try to see the church when it is lit up at night.

There is also a market on Sunday (early) - I think 6am - 2pm.

Santa Cecilia is another church you may want to see and also Villa Farnesina.

Trastevere is mainly a residential area with not a main shopping area, but has many specialty, antique and craft stores. The fun is in finding them. Do visit the Almost Corner Bookshop.

We loved just wandering the narrow pretty streets. Some liken the area to Greenwich Village in NYC. I think it's much prettier.

From Trastevere, of course, you are also very close to Tiber Island, where you could pick up a boat for a ride, and also close to the Ghetto.

Restaurants in Trastevere and the Ghetto are noted to be less expensive than Central Rome, but we did not eat in either of these areas.

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