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Old Dec 30th, 2012, 06:26 PM
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alicefe...

I would say Osteria dell’Ingegno located on Piazza della Pietra, which is around the corner and down the street from the Albergo del Senato is a good choice. I've had lunch there on a previous trip and the food was good. This trip in November we only went there for aperitivo. I'd consider this place less touristy than others in that area.
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 06:21 AM
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Thanks Lowcountry. One more question if you don't mind: Does the Caffe Sant'Eustachio serve food other than for breakfast? Also, if it isn't asking too much, since this is my daughter's first trip to Rome and my first trip in over 15 years, we are going to try to see all the main sights. I know we are going to end up scrambling,looking for lunch places in the middle of these tourist areas. Do you have any recommendations for lunch either near the Vatican, the Colosseum or the Villa Borghese?
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 10:36 AM
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alicefe...

I've only ever had breakfast (pastry & coffee) at Caffe Sant'Eustachio, so can't say about other meals. I do know at other cafes at lunch time there are usually sandwiches available. I know for sure Caffe Camilloni, which is in the same piazza as Sant'Eustachio, does offer sandwiches/omelettes at lunch time.

Near the Vatican I liked a restaurant called Arlu, on Via Pia Borga, but I haven't been there since 2007. I do know they are still there, because on this last trip we considered going for lunch one day, but never made it over to the Vatican. Near the Colosseum, I had lunch at a cute little place kind of like a tea room, but I'll have to look at my past trip reports to dig up the name, then I'll post it back here. The Villa Borghese area I can't say. If you have a smart phone I encourage buying the EatRome App or the Rome for Foodies app. Both are terrific and very helpful, you can sort the information by neighborhood and there are maps to help find your way.
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 11:19 AM
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alicefe...

Below is the except from my 2010 Bologna/Rome trip report which talks about the place near the Colosseum, that I would recommend for a lunch stop. The last time I was there was in 2010, so I can't say how it is currently, but when we went we enjoyed it. I also listed a trattoria below the cafe that's not too far from the Albergo del Senato that you may like.


Café Café
Located at Via De SS Quattro, 44 (near the Coliseum) www.cafecafebistrot.it

Mom had found this place mentioned on Elizabeth Minchilli’s blog and I am glad she did. It was the perfect little spot to stop for a light lunch after exploring the Coliseum. The inside is a bit of a mish-mash of about 10 wooden tables and chairs. Mom had the chicken salad with parmigiano cheese and verdiana leaves, which is a green we had never seen or heard of before. I had the capresee panino, which made for a great light lunch. With a bottle of water the total cost of the meal was €18.


Tonino – Trattoria/Antonio Bassetii
Located at Via del Governo Vecchio, 18/19

This really is one of my most favorite places in Rome to eat the food is excellent! There is no sign so make sure to note the street address. The prices are very reasonable and the service is friendly and casual. When we went here last year the menu was completely in Italian, this trip I noted there was an English translation below each menu item, it must be getting more popular with visitors. The night we were there we literally got the last table; the place was teeming with happy patrons eating. We had a liter of the house white wine and a bottle of water. For starters mom had the eggplant rigatoni and it was as good as we remembered. I had the pasta with mushrooms and peas and it was creamy and delicious. For our main course mom had the rabbit which was very tender, but watch out, for lots of bones. I had the meatballs which were fabulous, they were as big as the palm of my hand and were veal and pork, with the marinara sauce it was heaven on a plate. The total cost for this meal was €49. If you are cost conscience any one of the pasta primi dishes could easily satisfy any hungry person.
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 12:12 PM
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thanks, as ever, LCI.

I've made a note of them for my trip in February.

less than 7 weeks to go!
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 01:38 PM
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Thank you so much lowcountry. I will buy at least one of the food apps but I must say that I think the info and recommendations you have provided will probably do the trick. Again, thank you very much.
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 06:57 PM
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annhig...I'm envious! Wish I was going back to Rome in 7 weeks!

alicefe...you're welcome, it's my pleasure.

Felice Anno Nuovo a Tutti!
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Old Jan 1st, 2013, 01:29 AM
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LCI - have I mentioned that i am going as part of a group to attend a language school? no? i was sure i'd told everybody! the college where i attend italian conversation evening classes decided that rather than just take the A level and IB students [17-18 year olds] on a sightseeing trip, it would offer the chance to attend a language school, AND opened it up to us oldies. there are about 15 kids, and 5 of us, plus our teacher. we will have 4 hours lessons in the morning, then a break for the all important lunch, then an excursion in the afternoon, lead by a tour guide, i assume in italian. the school is near the Piazza Bologna, which is a new area of Rome for me, and we will be staying near the Vatican, which again is not somewhere where I've stayed before, so it will be a chance to explore somewhere new.

I'm getting quite excited now!
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Old Jan 2nd, 2013, 05:16 AM
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annhig...I do recall mention of your language school trip to Rome, I'm quite envious! The name Piazza Bologna is familiar to me, but I don't remember its exact location in the city. I'm sure you are going to have a great time! Have a cappuccino and a glass of wine (not at the same time of course!) and think of me!
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Old Jan 2nd, 2013, 07:29 AM
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salute, LCI! I will certainly raise a glass of something to you while I'm in Rome, and a cappuccino as well.

Piazza Bologna is to the east of the Villa Borghese somewhere - on metro line B. We'll be staying near a metro stop on line A I think, so getting there should be pretty easy, if we can avoid the pick pockets at Termini [ref another current thread!]

I will undoubtedly report back!
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Old Jan 8th, 2013, 02:43 PM
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LCI, you have been so generous with your advice, that I'm hoping I can ask a bit more!
Can you answer the same question I posed above regarding restaurants for a first-time visitor, except for Bologna? We will be training from Venice to Bologna in the late afternoon on a Sunday - not the best since many restaurants are closed. Any Sunday recs specifically would be great, but your top choices otherwise?

We also plan to do the Italian Days Tour and Bluone cooking class - thanks for those recs as well!!
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Old Jan 8th, 2013, 05:15 PM
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caze17...

Looking back at my Bologna trip report, and from my memory, I'd say this was our favorite meal during our time in Bologna. But I'm not sure if they are open on Sundays.

Trattoria Gianni
Located at Via Clavatura, 18
This restaurant was on my “radar” from a trip report posted by Fodorite Ekscrunchy and the recommendation was seconded by Fodorite kathrynj, so we had our final evening meal in Bologna at Trattoria Gianni and it could not have been a better choice, this was another stellar meal.

We ordered a bottle of local white wine and I started with the special of tortelloni stuffed with mushrooms in a butter sauce with hand grated parmigiano cheese, it was one of the best pasta dishes I had in Bologna. Mom had the tortellini in brood and it far exceeded the version I had at Cesari earlier in the trip, it the broth was very smooth. I had the grilled mortadella with balsamic for my main dish and this was a huge piece of grilled mortadella with a drizzle of balsamic and garnished with radicchio, with nothing else on the plate it made for an interesting presentation. Mom had the bacala special and this was another great dish, mom had a one/two punch with 2 winning dishes at Gianni.

Since it was our last evening in Bologna we decided to “splash out” and we each ordered dessert. Mom had a fantastic semi-fredo (chocolate and amaretto), it was addictive. I had a mascarpone cream with chocolate that was deliciously smooth. We had 2 espresso and ended the meal with 2 limoncello and here is something interesting. We ordered the limoncello and they brought 2 glassed to the table and put the whole bottle of limoncello down on the table for us to pour and left it there, this surprised us, could we have poured more than one glass? We don’t know, after one we were ready to meander back to the apartment and prepare for the next day of train travel to Rome
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Old Jan 9th, 2013, 07:24 PM
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LCI, I just found this trip report and couldn't stop reading! (There goes my evening of cleaning out closets..hahaha)

Loved the trip report and restaurant/shop recemmendations. I'm a "small plates" kind of person, so picking up some cheese, bread, olives and wine is right up my alley. Or even some pizza bianca.

Expect to spend a bit of time in Rome later this spring. I look forward to putting some of these restaurants on to my personalized Rome restaurant map.

Grazie!
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Old Jan 10th, 2013, 04:51 AM
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sarge56...glad I could provide some helpful info for your upcoming trip. Enjoy your time in Rome!
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Old Jan 18th, 2013, 07:45 AM
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In Rome now - have so appreciated your trip report and following in some of your footsteps. Had lunch today at Metamorfosi - it was lovely....but like you we were the only people there. Initially they said the Tasting menus weren't available, but then offered the 70E menu, but we were happier to order a la carte. Of the many highlights, my smoked lobster was stunning. Pics to follow on our blog tomorrow......

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/2013returntoitaly/

We plan to go to Eataly next week and maybe a couple other restaurants you suggested - thanks!
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Old Jan 18th, 2013, 07:47 AM
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Oh - forgot to mention - we met John as well as the Chef - had a great tour of the kitchen and Chef gave us several recommendations for our next stops in Sardinia and Lucca.
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Old Jan 18th, 2013, 08:42 AM
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Elizabeth...

So glad you tried Metamorfosi, and I'm jealous that you toured the kitchen! ;-)

Your blog is terrific, great pics!

Enjoy your journey!
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Old Jan 18th, 2013, 10:29 AM
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is this it?

http://metamorfosiroma.it/

looks great but sadly it will probably be outside the budget of my fellow language students. I'm definitely looking at the budget end of the market.
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Old Jan 18th, 2013, 11:46 AM
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annhig - yes that's it. Not a budget place, sadly
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Old Feb 26th, 2013, 04:18 PM
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LCI, your "Gourmet Rome" report was so enjoyable! We appreciate the time you took to include so many details. We're keeping some of your suggestions for our next trip to Rome. . .which may have to wait for a while. Our next European trip, planned for September, will be to S. Germany, Austria, & Switzerland, more of a scenic beauty exploration rather than big cities. But we hope to have a few days in Paris before heading for home!

Also, just caught up with your report of your trip to S. Asia. Our trips to that area were pre-Fodor's. But we still have some of the countries you visited on our list. Not enough time to get to all the places!
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