trish

Dear Chuck,,,,I am so lucky to have found this sight...a friend told me about Fodors,,,,and here I am....I loved your letters....any advice for taking a 14 year old boy.....with his 2 older sisters...staying in Florence near the Ponto Vechio...(apartment for 18 days) and would love some help on reasonable restaurants.....ITALIAN...also taking train to Rome for 2 days, 1 night,,and still haven't gotten train tickets..probably should soon..leaving June 15 from Philadelphia.....thanks in advance

Chuck

Trish, <BR>I will check on restaurants (I do recommend Trattoria Nelle, and will try to find street and address). Depending on when in your trip you are going to Rome, get train tix and SEATS in advance. I think you can go to a local travel agent and get tickets in advance. <BR> <BR>What to do with a 14 year old guy and his two sisters is a bit more difficult. What are they interested in? The museums are world class, the gelati is incredible and the local towns have some Roman Ruins to explore, although we did not get out of Florence. Hopefully, some more experienced Italy travelers are reading and can add their comments. Again, I will ask my wife about restaurants and get back on tommorrow. <BR> <BR>Hope this helps, Chuck.

Fran

Thanks for the super report. A friend & I are leaving for 9 days in Rome and 6 in Florfence on 6/26. We have a concern. She has a problem and may have a sudden bathroom need. I know that sounds dumb, but it's true. She has not wished to travel in the past because of this. What do you suggest? If we go into a "bar" (I think these are like delis?? they sell food) and but an ice cream or drink, will she be able to use the restroom? I understand restrooms are very few in Rome, what about Florence? OK, I understand ther may be no seat, but are they more than a hole in the ground? Thanks for mentioning about safety--one reads so much about pickpockets that it is good to know one can have a good time with some caution.

russ

Fran, <BR> <BR>I have never had a problem walking into a bar or cafe and just asking where the bathroom is (Dov'é il bagno? = Doh-VEH eel BAHN-yoh?, more or less, or you can just say, "Il bango?"). I was never questioned. In fact, many times the place is so small you can just walk directly to the bathroom without a word. This is especially true if the bar/cafe has outdoor seating, with a lot of people coming and going.

Gerry

Fran: <BR> <BR>My wife has the same problem. It seems that 2 1/2 minutes after we leave the hotel she has to use the facilities. I was worried about this. In Rome we had no problem. Bars(they are something like a combination Starbucks, donut shop, sandwitch deli etc) are on virtually every block. Also there's McDonalds etc. and restaurants. I am told that by Roman law they must let you use the bathroom. It any case when we just asked politely we were always courteusly directed to the bathroom. <BR>Florence, however appears to have no such law. When my wife asked to use the bathroom at a gelataria there, the owner told her that it was for "clients" only. I told her no problem, buy a gelato and become a "client". She did and handed the gelato to me. The owner than blocked the way to the bathroom and told her she couldn't use it. The counterman then told him it was OK since she had bought something and he(the owner) stepped aside. In Rome they also refused to let us use the bathroom at a department store since we had't bought anything. <BR>Other than that we had no bathroom problems. It was much easier to find a bathroom than at home. (San Francisco). <BR> <BR>Have a great trip, <BR> <BR>Gerry <BR>

Julie

Also just back from Rome (and Siena, Florence and my fave, Venice). <BR> <BR>Just wanted to add my comments about pickpockets in Rome - don't let down your guard anywhere crowded. My 6'4" blond husband (who of course stuck out like a sore thumb!) was "trapped" by 2 characters in the doorway of a Metro train en route to the Colusseum. We were wise to them and I actually pulled one guy's arm/hand out of my husband's pocket. We used a moneybelt, so his pockets were empty. The two cads were a bit surprised by the "smart Americans" and parted ways quickly. <BR> <BR>Don't get too close to anyone and please use a moneybelt for cash, credit cards and especially your passports. Better safe than sorry. <BR> <BR>Other than that - Rome was fabulous! Try Ristorante 34 near Spanish Steps - it was incredible! <BR> <BR>Ciao! <BR>Julie

Paulo

Trish, <BR> <BR>You 14 year old may like to climb the Giotto campanile, to visit Palazzo Vecchio and to stroll the Boboli Garden and Piazzale Michelangelo. All of course, with lots of gelato. <BR> <BR>Of course, with 14 days in Florence you'll have the opportunity to make some daytrips. San Gimignano is possibly what he'll like best. He'll also like Siena and Campo dei Miracoli in Pisa. <BR> <BR>I'd get the train tickets once in Florence. No need to rush. <BR> <BR>Paulo

Diane

It is hard to visualise from guide books and even postings here, but Florence's "centro storica" is VERY small and easy to get around. You can walk from the Duomo to the Ponte Vecchio in virtually no time. (If there wasn't so much to see in betwen!) Florence is the only place we actually noticed pickpockets -- in an area where mimes were performing and people were enjoying the show, eating gelato, you got the idea? In 80 degree weather, suddenly you realise the guy brushing past was wearing a floppy coat over his shoulders and his hands and arms were pretty active under that coat, and he disappeared pretty quickly into a doorway/alley ahead. We carried our credit cards and major cash in a moneybelt in Venice, Florence and Rome. My husband kept walking-around cash in his deep pocket, with a comb on top. If we'd lost anything it would have only amounted to about $20. In May, there weren't enough crowds in any of the other places we visited to make it worth (a thief's) while. We also stayed in a central location for our 3 days in Rome and were able to walk everywhere.

Chuck

Re Bathrooms, in Rome we used a few without buying anything and just walked in and went straight to the back. In Florence, I only did that once and had no problem. With 4 people, it always seemed like someone needed/wanted something and the others became accustomed to finding the bathroom. One time, I went while my wife was deciding on what to purchase and when I came out she changed her mind and bought nothing. This was inadvertant, but it worked. <BR> <BR>Trish - can't find address for Trattoria Nelle but I remember it was one street over from S. Appostli (spelling?) and about 3-4 blocks from the street coming off of Ponte Vechio. When you get there, ask as many people as you can for restaurant recommendations and look at the menus. We did and enjoyed making our own discoveries. <BR> <BR>Chuck <BR> <BR>PICKPOCKETS - as I stated we had no problem, BUT we were always on guard and I would recommend being on guard to everyone. Living near and working in Philadelphia trained me to always have an eye out for potential trouble. So, please do not take my comment to mean pickpockets were not there, just that we did not encounter them or see anyone.

Shannon

Chuck - great report. Sounds like you guys had a blast! Re the phone number you called for appointments for the Accademia and the Uffizi, how far in advance did you call to get the appointments? Thanks.

kam

Not to be too picky, but to sound more polite and with better Italian.....Il Bagno is the room you want included with your bedroom. It includes toilet, sink, bathtub/shower and sometimes bidet and can also mean "bathtub". La toiletta is what you ask for when you want a restroom in a bar/restaurant. So Dov'e la toiletta, per favore? Maybe precede it with Buon giorno and follow with grazie. And, it's just my opinion, but I think it's poor form to use the restroom without buying some small snack.

Chuck

Shannon, <BR>I called 1 month in advance for museum tickets. This seemed to work well. <BR> <BR>Chuck

Sue Dwyer

Thank you everyone for all the great info. Our family will be traveling to a Wedding in Fano Italy the end of August and plan on spending 3 nights in Florence on the way. I have hotel reservations everywhere except in Florence. I have contacted by fax and e-mail many hotels, and spoke to a booking agent by phone. I am having trouble finding a well located hotel at a good price that is not full because my husband is in a wheelchair and needs a bathroom door opening of 26". He is a small man and very capiable of taking care of himself. My 16 yr old son will be with us and can take him up some steps and lift him. If anyone has any advice or recommendations it would be appreciated.

Carin

Chuck, thanks for a great report! This report and all it's replies, questions, & contributions (& no negative nasty, politically picky people) is the stuff of which Fodor's Heaven is made of!

candis

great report chuck.......having been to rome/florence last year on a tour im returning 2002 on our own. my question is knowing the hotels are not rated as ours are were they tastfully decorated and clean, and were these medium or high in price? thanks candis

christina

ciao chuck <BR> <BR>trattoria nella is in Via delle Terme, in the corner to Via del Oro. do we met at torre guelfa? was the bar on the rooftop open? if so, i'm be the bartender there........ but it could be, that you saw me or my dog (puppy jack russell terrier, named milou). <BR> <BR>tanti saluti <BR> <BR>christina

Curly

Chuck, <BR> <BR>Can you give some more details about the Torre Guelfa in Florence? It sounds nice, but can you tell me about the amenities...i.e., is there an elevator (if one is needed), what views you have from the hotel, etc. <BR> <BR>Thanks a lot.

deb

hi, <BR>thanks for report..concise and full of info! We are staying at Santa Chiara 7 nights end of October. I had asked for inner room overlooking courtyard, but no luck..they are giving me a 4th story room with balcony..you have eased my mind re:noise..thanks! <BR>and for the restaurant choices..(we like to find someplace moderate and closeby that we can return to several times.) <BR>we are also taking train to florence, but only for the day..any suggestions as to what kind would be easiest for round trip in same day, and without luggage? <BR>thanks again! <BR> <BR>

Chuck

Some more info on Torre Guelfa in Florence - they did have an elevator, very small, holds about 4 people max and very close or 1 person and all luggage. Great views (really an understatment) from rooftop terrace, views from rooms were of buildings close by. Hotel was charming, very old, clean. As I indicated, rooms are on 6th floor and hot water took a bit to reach us (this bothered my wife, I expected it so no big deal, only about 30 seconds or so). <BR> <BR>Train to Florence from Rome - they run every half hour and it takes about 90 to 120 minutes depending on stops. I would ask at the hotel when I check in how to make reservations, though, we ended up not getting seat assignments in first class because we got the tickets right before train left. <BR> <BR>Restaurants - so many to choose from, my recommendation is to find some locals or just look at menu's and peek inside. Your instincts usually are better than recommendations, IMHO. <BR> <BR>Good luck all!! <BR>Chuck <BR> <BR>p.s. Wife and I are going back in November over Thanksgiving!!!

ali

If I could add a comment to the Torre Guelfa info - to get on the elevator, you need to go up about 3-4 steps, plus the threshold of the main door guarding the courtyard at the entrance to the building is about 10-12" high. Also, our experience there was so-so at best. The rooms (we had three over a 4 night stay) were not particularly clean, and one of them was very, very cramped even though we had booked over 4 months in advance. The location can't be beat, but you do pay for location over amenities I think. view does merit ****. Ask for the room with the rooftop terrace (but you need to climb stairs to get there). It's the prettiest one.