Romantic Greece and Exciting Turkey : 2011 Trip Report
Jul 19th, 2011, 09:56 AM
#43
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My enjoyment increases with every island and town you visit, Indiancouple. You have a very nice writing style, and glad to see that all four of you are real troopers, and make the most of your time, as well as whatever trials you encounter.
I've just helped an elderly couple in their 80s who are dear friends set up their GPS for a driving trip they were making to the far regions of northern Quebec. Poor them ! they had the same experience as you, with the GPS taking them through all the ins and outs and side streets and backstreets whenever they were passing a town on the highway. However also like you, they were resourceful enough to turn it off and make their own way by asking for help from the locals.
Really enjoyed Greece; now looking forward to Turkey ! Thank you for sharing.
M
PS Any pictures you may like to share ?
I've just helped an elderly couple in their 80s who are dear friends set up their GPS for a driving trip they were making to the far regions of northern Quebec. Poor them ! they had the same experience as you, with the GPS taking them through all the ins and outs and side streets and backstreets whenever they were passing a town on the highway. However also like you, they were resourceful enough to turn it off and make their own way by asking for help from the locals.
Really enjoyed Greece; now looking forward to Turkey ! Thank you for sharing.
M
PS Any pictures you may like to share ?
Jul 19th, 2011, 10:09 AM
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We stayed at the Hotel Aetoma in early June and had to laugh at your description of their breakfast! We had the room on the third floor which had a terrace where they served our breakfast. Every day we had to ask her to please bring less food....hated to waste.
We left early one morning to catch a boat to Hydra and Spetses. She delivered a small breakfast and coffee early and packed us a bag of sandwiches for the trip!
It was a wonderful stay in Nafplion.
We left early one morning to catch a boat to Hydra and Spetses. She delivered a small breakfast and coffee early and packed us a bag of sandwiches for the trip!
It was a wonderful stay in Nafplion.
Jul 19th, 2011, 10:53 AM
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I've very much enjoyed reading your trip report, because your travels are similar to a trip I'm planning for the end of August - August, Santorini, Paros, Nafplio. Also plan on renting a car, and was considering Budget. Any suggestions for fixing the GPS problem? What did Budget say about it when you returned the car?
Jul 19th, 2011, 10:59 AM
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We have always done better relying on a Good map.... ROAD Magp (brand) available in bookstore right in the airport. GPS only as good as the stupids who program it (and often they send people to drive around and write up the route who are not familiar with the area).
Jul 19th, 2011, 07:12 PM
#48
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Mathieu, thanks again for the kind words. Given below is a link to our Greece photos :
https://picasaweb.google.com/indianc...CNLmpOyRp8ikNg
Hope the photos do justice to the beauty of the places that we visited.
https://picasaweb.google.com/indianc...CNLmpOyRp8ikNg
Hope the photos do justice to the beauty of the places that we visited.
Jul 19th, 2011, 07:17 PM
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Judy, not surprised to hear about your experiences at Aetoma Hotel. We had a similar experience the morning of checking out - we were checking out much before her normal breakfast time, but she insisted on making a full early breakfast for us. Amongst the 4 of us who travelled together, we called her the nicest woman in Greece !
We did check the settings on the GPS. It had no option for setting either "shortest time" or "shortest distance". We did check that it was not programmed to avoid toll roads or national highways. Still the bizarre route selection. Strange.
We did check the settings on the GPS. It had no option for setting either "shortest time" or "shortest distance". We did check that it was not programmed to avoid toll roads or national highways. Still the bizarre route selection. Strange.
Jul 19th, 2011, 07:23 PM
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efobrien, we did lodge a complaint about the GPS to Budget when we returned the car, and asked them to check its programming before they gave it out to another customer. They checked the settings and verified that the settings were correct. Their stupid comment was : "You have to know Greece well to use this GPS " , to which my natural reaction was : "Why would I need a GPS if I knew Greece so well ?".
Cannot really blame the car rental agency for faulty programming; they all use cheap GPS models, which are sometimes with defective programs. No other problem really with Budget Rentals. Their car was fine, their rates were good, and their advance reservation system worked very well.
Cannot really blame the car rental agency for faulty programming; they all use cheap GPS models, which are sometimes with defective programs. No other problem really with Budget Rentals. Their car was fine, their rates were good, and their advance reservation system worked very well.
Jul 19th, 2011, 07:26 PM
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travelerjan, I wish we had done the same, to buy a good road map at the airport. This was my first experience of being let down by a GPS, so I am sufficiently chastened for the next time.
Jul 19th, 2011, 11:59 PM
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How nice to read your trip report and especially very interesting for me to see my country through the eyes of a non Greek guest.
This anti word comes straight from ancient Greek and can be found in many words and names, like Antigone( the daughter of Oedipus) , antagonism , antibiotics, antibacterial etc
It was so exciting for me to read about your experience at the Epidaurus theatre, i have seen there many ancient Greek tragedies and comedies. It is no surprize that the theatre was full, this a major event in Greece's cultural life.
Due to the history of the theatre only ancient greek plays are allowed to be performed there, and only from major actors.
it is actually a great honour for a Greek actor to perform in Epidaurus. Recently they allowed also to great actors and musicians from abroad to perform in the theatre...
If someone happen to be in Argolis at the end of July, there will be a great actor - Kevin Spacey with Bridge Project - (project between The Old Vic (London), BAM (USA) and Neal Street )in Richard III by William Shakespeare .
Date sare : 29 - 31/7 tickets start from 20 Euro ( for upper tier)
Had to laugh with the two places that confused the locals and you... Nemea, which is near Nafplio, and Lemea... which doesn't exist... it must have been Lamia, a city in Central Greece 350 km away from Nafplio.....
Thank you for your wonderful trip report, can't wait to read about Turkey, a country that i deeply love.
This anti word comes straight from ancient Greek and can be found in many words and names, like Antigone( the daughter of Oedipus) , antagonism , antibiotics, antibacterial etc
It was so exciting for me to read about your experience at the Epidaurus theatre, i have seen there many ancient Greek tragedies and comedies. It is no surprize that the theatre was full, this a major event in Greece's cultural life.
Due to the history of the theatre only ancient greek plays are allowed to be performed there, and only from major actors.
it is actually a great honour for a Greek actor to perform in Epidaurus. Recently they allowed also to great actors and musicians from abroad to perform in the theatre...
If someone happen to be in Argolis at the end of July, there will be a great actor - Kevin Spacey with Bridge Project - (project between The Old Vic (London), BAM (USA) and Neal Street )in Richard III by William Shakespeare .
Date sare : 29 - 31/7 tickets start from 20 Euro ( for upper tier)
Had to laugh with the two places that confused the locals and you... Nemea, which is near Nafplio, and Lemea... which doesn't exist... it must have been Lamia, a city in Central Greece 350 km away from Nafplio.....
Thank you for your wonderful trip report, can't wait to read about Turkey, a country that i deeply love.
Jul 20th, 2011, 12:07 AM
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clausar, it is equally nice to have my trip report read by a Greek native - your comments have a different perspective than that of another tourist.
Thanks for the info about the Epidaurus Theater; too bad we won't be there to watch Kevin Spacey in action. Would have been great to watch a play in English language there, which we would have understood. Anyway, even without comprehending the lines, the experience was still fantastic.
Will start posting the Turkey installments later today.
Thanks for the info about the Epidaurus Theater; too bad we won't be there to watch Kevin Spacey in action. Would have been great to watch a play in English language there, which we would have understood. Anyway, even without comprehending the lines, the experience was still fantastic.
Will start posting the Turkey installments later today.
Jul 20th, 2011, 05:39 AM
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Your trip report and description of Antiparos has inspired me to take a closer look at the island. My husband and I are now thinking of spending 5 nights on Antiparos and taking a day trip or two to Paros. Earlier, we were thinking of staying on Paros and taking a day trip to Antiparos. Antiparos seems much more quiet and relaxing with a beautiful beach. Did you think the beaches on Antiparos were prettier than on Paros? Pictures that I've seen online look like they are, even though there aren't as many. We've never been to Greece, but while Paros has more to see and do, we are leaning towards the peacefulness and beauty that Antiparos seems to offer. We'll then make our way to Santorini after Antiparos/Paros.
Jul 20th, 2011, 08:56 AM
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cvilletravel, I do think the beaches of Antiparos are far prettier than those at Paros. At Paros you have the Krios beach, which is a popular spot, but nothing special about it. And you have the Kolymvithres beach, which has pretty rock formations. The beaches that we saw at Antiparos were infinitely prettier and serene. There are many secluded beaches which you can have all to yourself. The water at Antiparos is much much cleaner and pure. There are spots on the western coast of Antiparos which are divine, with coves and bays set in pristine environs.
If you like quiet and serene settings, Antiparos is the place for you. I am sure it will also be a lot cheaper. And you can rent a car, and bring the car with you whenever you day-trip to Paros (the car ferry runs every 30 minutes, all the way till past midnight). There are other Greece experts on this forum, including people like Heimdall and travelerjan, both of whom have an affinity for Antiparos, and who can feed you much more about that island.
TDudette, Turkey installment coming very soon.
If you like quiet and serene settings, Antiparos is the place for you. I am sure it will also be a lot cheaper. And you can rent a car, and bring the car with you whenever you day-trip to Paros (the car ferry runs every 30 minutes, all the way till past midnight). There are other Greece experts on this forum, including people like Heimdall and travelerjan, both of whom have an affinity for Antiparos, and who can feed you much more about that island.
TDudette, Turkey installment coming very soon.
Jul 20th, 2011, 09:31 AM
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Day 10 (Sunday, July 3rd): ARRIVAL AT CAPPADOCIA :
We had mentioned to our hostess that we wanted to leave by 8:15 am in the morning. That threw her in a spot of bother, as fresh bread arrived only by 9 am in the morning ! We assured her that we could do with bread which was one day old, or skip bread altogether for breakfast, but she was not satisfied. Finally she said : "Leave it to me, I will ensure you get a good breakfast before you leave". We were worried that she would subject herself to far more bother than what was necessary, but she would hear none of it.
We got up early, and when we reported for breakfast at 8 am, the full service was ready, fresh from the kitchen. Cheese pies, omelettes, fresh bread, the whole works. We could not possibly eat so much so early in the morning, but looking at the trouble she had gone through, we stuffed ourselves to the brim. Then loaded the luggage in the car, said a painful farewell, and departed. If anyone visits Nafplion, he would be unwise to not stay at this piece of Paradise.
As we exited the city, we just had to stop at the sign which marks the end of city limits of any town/city in Greece, which was a sign reading "Nafplion" which a red diagonal line running across it. Sort of like "Nafplion cancelled" ! Clicked pictures of that sign. This was something we had never seen anywhere else in the world, and was a cute way of signalling the end of any city limit.
On the way we made a brief detour to stop at Corinth Canal, to click pictures. Nice photo stop for a few minutes. Pretty sight.
Continued driving to Athens airport, fortunately without the aid of our GPS. Had some food in the car itself, exhausting our supplies of packed Indian goodies. Reached Athens airport by 11:30 am. Took a while to return the car, while the ladies checked us in at the Aegean Airlines counter. The flight departed at 2 pm, and that was our goodbye to Greece. Reached Istanbul at 3 pm. Had a comfortable flight changeover; just sufficient time to retrieve our luggage, clear Immigration (including getting a visa on arrival, which was efficiently done), and proceed to the domestic terminal to check-in at the Turkish Airline counter for our onward flight to Nevsehir. The flight departed on-time at 5:45 pm, and reached Nevsehir at 7 pm. Turkey, here we come !
Our hotel at Urgup had arranged a car pick-up for us at Nevsehir, and the driver was waiting with our name sign. By the time we reached our Hotel Esbelli Evi at Urgup, it was almost 8 pm. Almost the entire day had gone in transit, but we had been prepared for this today.
The bothers of a long journey were forgotten on reaching the hotel. A cave hotel, which had been raved about on every travel site, including this forum. We had gone ahead and splurged a little by booking two suites for ourselves, the Volcano Cave Suite for ourselves, and the Hillside Suite for our friends. The staff at the hotel were simply wonderful, and Sajid took charge of giving us an orientation of the hotel.
As he showed us around, we ooooh-ed and aaaah-ed at every nook and corner that we saw. It was a classy hotel, built and furnished to perfection. The reception area, sitting area, breakfast area, everything was so well laid out and cozy. And when we were shown inside our Volcano Cave Suite, I was simply blown away. It was too beautiful for words. A lovely large bedroom, adjoining a very comfortable living area (which not only had a big television, but also a large free laptop), a kitchenette cum dining area, and a huge huge toilet, with double showers and a separate ante-room with the WC. And another "secret" door leading to a mysterious passage inside some cave (God knows leading to where, as we never ventured inside). There was a large patio outside with full privacy, to laze about. The suite was extremely romantic, and one wanted to just stay put inside for three whole days !
Our friends had the Hillside Suite, which was just above ours, and was very differently laid out, and had its own special charm. We felt glad that we had selected this hotel, and happier that we had opted for the suites over the normal rooms.
There was not much else to do that evening, after a long day of travel. We left at 9:30 pm to grab some dinner. The most well-rated restaurant of Urgup, by the name "Ziggy's" was a short walk away. Very nice place, quite upmarket. Had a fine dinner of Potato Salad, Olives and Feta in Spicy olive oil, and a Mixed Vegetable platter. Had my first taste of Raki. The waiter showed me how to drink it (i.e. how much water and ice to ideally mix), and it went down much smoother than ouzo. Fell in love with Raki instantly.
Returned to the hotel, watched some TV, explored the net a little, and fell asleep past midnight.
We had mentioned to our hostess that we wanted to leave by 8:15 am in the morning. That threw her in a spot of bother, as fresh bread arrived only by 9 am in the morning ! We assured her that we could do with bread which was one day old, or skip bread altogether for breakfast, but she was not satisfied. Finally she said : "Leave it to me, I will ensure you get a good breakfast before you leave". We were worried that she would subject herself to far more bother than what was necessary, but she would hear none of it.
We got up early, and when we reported for breakfast at 8 am, the full service was ready, fresh from the kitchen. Cheese pies, omelettes, fresh bread, the whole works. We could not possibly eat so much so early in the morning, but looking at the trouble she had gone through, we stuffed ourselves to the brim. Then loaded the luggage in the car, said a painful farewell, and departed. If anyone visits Nafplion, he would be unwise to not stay at this piece of Paradise.
As we exited the city, we just had to stop at the sign which marks the end of city limits of any town/city in Greece, which was a sign reading "Nafplion" which a red diagonal line running across it. Sort of like "Nafplion cancelled" ! Clicked pictures of that sign. This was something we had never seen anywhere else in the world, and was a cute way of signalling the end of any city limit.
On the way we made a brief detour to stop at Corinth Canal, to click pictures. Nice photo stop for a few minutes. Pretty sight.
Continued driving to Athens airport, fortunately without the aid of our GPS. Had some food in the car itself, exhausting our supplies of packed Indian goodies. Reached Athens airport by 11:30 am. Took a while to return the car, while the ladies checked us in at the Aegean Airlines counter. The flight departed at 2 pm, and that was our goodbye to Greece. Reached Istanbul at 3 pm. Had a comfortable flight changeover; just sufficient time to retrieve our luggage, clear Immigration (including getting a visa on arrival, which was efficiently done), and proceed to the domestic terminal to check-in at the Turkish Airline counter for our onward flight to Nevsehir. The flight departed on-time at 5:45 pm, and reached Nevsehir at 7 pm. Turkey, here we come !
Our hotel at Urgup had arranged a car pick-up for us at Nevsehir, and the driver was waiting with our name sign. By the time we reached our Hotel Esbelli Evi at Urgup, it was almost 8 pm. Almost the entire day had gone in transit, but we had been prepared for this today.
The bothers of a long journey were forgotten on reaching the hotel. A cave hotel, which had been raved about on every travel site, including this forum. We had gone ahead and splurged a little by booking two suites for ourselves, the Volcano Cave Suite for ourselves, and the Hillside Suite for our friends. The staff at the hotel were simply wonderful, and Sajid took charge of giving us an orientation of the hotel.
As he showed us around, we ooooh-ed and aaaah-ed at every nook and corner that we saw. It was a classy hotel, built and furnished to perfection. The reception area, sitting area, breakfast area, everything was so well laid out and cozy. And when we were shown inside our Volcano Cave Suite, I was simply blown away. It was too beautiful for words. A lovely large bedroom, adjoining a very comfortable living area (which not only had a big television, but also a large free laptop), a kitchenette cum dining area, and a huge huge toilet, with double showers and a separate ante-room with the WC. And another "secret" door leading to a mysterious passage inside some cave (God knows leading to where, as we never ventured inside). There was a large patio outside with full privacy, to laze about. The suite was extremely romantic, and one wanted to just stay put inside for three whole days !
Our friends had the Hillside Suite, which was just above ours, and was very differently laid out, and had its own special charm. We felt glad that we had selected this hotel, and happier that we had opted for the suites over the normal rooms.
There was not much else to do that evening, after a long day of travel. We left at 9:30 pm to grab some dinner. The most well-rated restaurant of Urgup, by the name "Ziggy's" was a short walk away. Very nice place, quite upmarket. Had a fine dinner of Potato Salad, Olives and Feta in Spicy olive oil, and a Mixed Vegetable platter. Had my first taste of Raki. The waiter showed me how to drink it (i.e. how much water and ice to ideally mix), and it went down much smoother than ouzo. Fell in love with Raki instantly.
Returned to the hotel, watched some TV, explored the net a little, and fell asleep past midnight.
Jul 20th, 2011, 09:49 AM
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Hi cvilletravel,
I have been going to Antiparos once or twice a year for the last 15 years or so, and finally persuaded travellerjan to visit the island for a few days the first time this year. Prices are about the same as on Paros, with most accommodation consisting of rooms, studios, and apartments. Antiparos gets very busy in August, but the rest of the time is laid back and serene, just as indiancouple describes.
There are about five beaches within a 10 minute walk from the center of town, mostly sand with a mixture of pebbles. To the south of Antiparos are Soros and Ag. Georgios, a beautiful area with expensive villas and excellent beaches. To me, the best beaches are the little coves which offer good snorkelling. It's possible to find a little cove all to yourself if you are prepared to walk or rent a boat as did indiancouple. You can even wade or swim across to Diplo, an uninhabited island to the north, from the clothing optional Camping Beach. Bring a pair of sandals, and you can walk around on an island with no one else but yourself.
I do find Antiparos a good base for day trips to Paros. Parikia, the Paros island hub, is only 30 minutes away by bus or excursion boat. From there you can take buses to anywhere on Paros. The best part is coming back to Antiparos in the evening, for a stroll around town and a meal in one of the excellent tavernas. There is a subdued nightlife after midnight around kastro square.
One website that offers a good (but slightly dated) description of Antiparos and other islands is:
http://islandstrolling.com/english/index.htm
Another is:
http://www.angelfire.com/super2/greece/antiparos.html
I have been going to Antiparos once or twice a year for the last 15 years or so, and finally persuaded travellerjan to visit the island for a few days the first time this year. Prices are about the same as on Paros, with most accommodation consisting of rooms, studios, and apartments. Antiparos gets very busy in August, but the rest of the time is laid back and serene, just as indiancouple describes.
There are about five beaches within a 10 minute walk from the center of town, mostly sand with a mixture of pebbles. To the south of Antiparos are Soros and Ag. Georgios, a beautiful area with expensive villas and excellent beaches. To me, the best beaches are the little coves which offer good snorkelling. It's possible to find a little cove all to yourself if you are prepared to walk or rent a boat as did indiancouple. You can even wade or swim across to Diplo, an uninhabited island to the north, from the clothing optional Camping Beach. Bring a pair of sandals, and you can walk around on an island with no one else but yourself.
I do find Antiparos a good base for day trips to Paros. Parikia, the Paros island hub, is only 30 minutes away by bus or excursion boat. From there you can take buses to anywhere on Paros. The best part is coming back to Antiparos in the evening, for a stroll around town and a meal in one of the excellent tavernas. There is a subdued nightlife after midnight around kastro square.
One website that offers a good (but slightly dated) description of Antiparos and other islands is:
http://islandstrolling.com/english/index.htm
Another is:
http://www.angelfire.com/super2/greece/antiparos.html
