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Riviera Trip Report, Part I: Travel there, orientation, and adjusting to the high costs

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Riviera Trip Report, Part I: Travel there, orientation, and adjusting to the high costs

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Old Jul 27th, 2008, 12:59 PM
  #21  
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Next day was 7/13. This was a beach day mainly.

At this point, we had stayed at the various public beaches in Juan-les-Pins. There is the main beach to the right of the pier, which is jam packed, but has free toilets, which is nice in France.

There's also the beach next to "Le Meridien Hotel" which has a little spot where you can sunbathe without all the hoards. It's still quite crowded though.

Both beaches have nice sand and the water is quite clear.

Then, there's Plage Des Ondes. You have to walk along Boulevard Edouard Boudoin and Boulevard du Marechal Juin for around 20-30 minutes to get this beach, but I highly recommend it. The beach is slightly coarser sand, but there are some rocky features slightly out that make snorkeling best there.

I went snorkeling there several times over the course of the vacation. If you snorkel next to the tower structure, you'll see most of the fish and marine life there. There are also some deep spots for diving if you are so interested.

I found that I could only snorkel around 20 minutes or so before I was chilled to the bone and shivering so I would recommend a wetsuit if you plan to snorkel for long periods of time. What I would do was to snorkel for around 20 minutes, come back to shore and lay in the 28-30C sun for around 30 minutes to warm up, and then I head back out to sea. Of course, if you are used to the 23C water, then you may not have any problems, but I'm mainly used to snorkeling in the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean, where you can snorkel for hours and not get cold.

Now, about toplessness. We found that toplessness was not as common on the main public beaches as you may think. I'd say rates of 20% among young women and 40% among older women were the rates. However, at Plage Des Ondes, the rates were probably 60-70% of all women were topless, with many women in the 20-40 age going topless, which was not the case on the other beaches. I think that is because most of the women there are locals (or vacationing for the summer). Also, many of the people there are very wealthy, living in the mansions nearby, so you get a more refined beach experience there. My wife was only comfortable going topless at that beach, as it was low key and the rates of toplessness were very high. I hope by posting this on the internet that the beach doesn't get hoarded by tourists, but I think it's one of the nicest beaches around (but let's just keep that amongst ourselves).


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Old Jul 27th, 2008, 01:01 PM
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kerouac,

Thanks. None of my translation guides had that word in it. Is it a common French word??
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Old Jul 27th, 2008, 02:56 PM
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Author: bkluvsNola
Date: 07/27/2008, 05:11 pm
For restaurants, on 7/12 it was MIL's birthday, so she got to pick the restaurant. She chose Veneto Cafe (Av Merchal Joffre). We each had the menu at 19.90E.

I had an avocado salad with citrus dressing (delicious) and my wife had a tomato and mozarrella salad (one of my favorites). I can't remember what I ordered for the main dish, but I had a chocolate mousse for dessert, but it was a bit too rich for me. I prefer chocolate mousse to be fluffier than they had there.

They charges for "eau plate 1L" (plain water, something free in the US) around 5E, so keep that in mind.







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Author: bkluvsNola
Date: 07/27/2008, 05:19 pm
On 7/13, we also went to Veneto Cafe. My MIL seemed to like the place.

I won't go into details of what we ordered, except that my son had moules mariniere and my wife had petite friture de la mer. When that dish came out, I thought it was calamari, until my wife explained that it was little fish that had been deep fried. I looked at them and discovered that it was basically deep fried minnows. I think it's illegal to serve minnows in the US, as you have to let the minnows grow up to be full fish.

My son absolutely loved eating those "baby fish" as he called it. He just couldn't have enough. I also loved eating them as well. I knew at that moment I would have to return to Veneto and get that same dish ordered.





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Author: bkluvsNola
Date: 07/27/2008, 05:55 pm
Now, there was a Jazz Festival occurring in Juan-les-Pins, and, me being a lover of New Orleans Dixieland style of Jazz, I wanted to check it out. So, I bought tickets in the 3'ieme section for around 26E a pop.

The musicians were more of new age Jazz and I didn't know any of them. The experience was nice, but it was getting quite windy and cool by 11:30PM or so and I didn't have a sweater, and I really didn't like the artists that much, so I headed home. I was there maybe 4 hours and I got to enjoy the experience. However, this is no New Orleans Jazz Festival. Everyone was just sitting in their chairs looking at the Jazz musicians play, behaving as if they were at an opera, occasionally clapping at the end of a number.

Sorry, but Jazz is best enjoyed in the New Orleans way: dancing, swaying, singing along, cheering, and getting into the groove. That's why, although many cities try to imitate, there's only one birthplace of Jazz, where Jazz comes natural, and that's the Big Easy, and there's only one Jazzfest, and it's at the Fairgrounds Racetrack in New Orleans.



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Old Jul 27th, 2008, 03:23 PM
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Yes, "guérite" is a common word in French.

The sign you saw on Ile Sainte-Marguerite was pointing in the direction of a restaurant, called Restaurant La Guérite!
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Old Jul 27th, 2008, 09:07 PM
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BK -

To clarify and help others out, when ordering water in a restaurant in France, if you ask for "eau plate" without specifiying anything else, you will most often be served a bottle of still water (which can easily run 5 euros and represents a nice margin for the restaurant). The bottle should without fault be brought to your table and opened in front of you - if not, ask for another one.

You also have the perfect right to ask for "une carafe d'eau" which means effectively tap water. There will not be a charge for this. I'm not sure if the law in France is that restaurants MUST offer this option. But I have never dined anywhere where they didn't. You just have to specify when ordering. If a waiter told me this was not possible, I'd be inclined to walk out, assuming they were trying to take advantage.

-Kevin

p.s.: many French diners specifically order bottled water as they can be quite particular about their water's taste.
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 04:31 AM
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"p.s.: many French diners specifically order bottled water as they can be quite particular about their water's taste."

That's why we add a lemon to tap water in the US

We attempted to order une carafe d'eau but they explained that in order to get that, you must also order standard bottled water.

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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 05:16 AM
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The law says they must offer tap water. I have walked out of places that said it wasn't possible. One time I took 8 people with me, and the next time we went there, we had no trouble getting tap water.

(We boycotted the place for 6 months, but since there is not a plethora of affordable lunch options near the office, we gave them another chance and they passed the test.)
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 05:42 AM
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Is France's tap water similar to tap water in the US or does one need to get used to it before drinking it? I've always had to have bottled water in Mexico & South America, but have never been to Europe, so I'm just curious. Thanks!
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 06:22 AM
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French tap water does not have nearly as much chlorine (Paris tap water doesn't have any at all because it is purified with ozone), so you may need to bring a bottle of bleach to get the good American tap water taste.
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 06:53 AM
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BK et al:


We have never had a problem ordering tap water in most western European countries. In fact, particularly in Italy, GB, Portugal and France, many restos deliver tap water in a nice carafe or in a good looking bottle...and the taste is certainly equal to or better than LA tap water in every case. Gone are the days when one was compelled to order Pellegrino, Evian, etc.(unless you prefer that)..or solve any problems with a glass of beer!
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 07:15 AM
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kerouac, the USA is a big place, there are many different sources of water supply, some better than others of course.
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 07:54 AM
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Monaco, a sunny place filled with shady characters:

On 7/14, we decided to take a day trip to Monaco via train (SNCF).

So, we walked over to the train station, which was a 5 minute walk, and got a train around 9:11 AM or so.

The train was ultramodern, with air conditioning and bathrooms that were larger than our hotel's... We were also able to get a seat, so that was nice.

The ride took about an hour in total, and the scenery was quite gorgeous. Southern France is a bit more green than Spain, I guess since it gets more rain and cooler temperatures. It reminds me of Northern California with respect to weather and scenery, whereas Spain reminded me of Southern California. There still was a bit too much grafitti along the rail lines. Why do people insist on desecrating such a beautiful area?

Shortly before Monaco, the train entered a tunnel, and then we entered the underground Monaco train station.

Right away, I knew we were in a place with money. I think the underground waiting platform is air conditioned, as it was cool in there. The floors looked like teak on a ship and the walls in the underground corridors were marble. I've never seen so much spent on a train station.

We did get a little confused, as there are several exits to different street levels in Monaco and it makes it confusing.

We asked how to get to the bus stop so we could take a bus up to the aquarium area.

So, we boarded the bus, and took off. The ride was quite enjoyable, as it gave a great panorama of the port area with the cruise terminal and such. I tell you, that place is simply beautiful.

When we got to the Aquarium, we saw a little tram that gave tours of the area, so we decided to do that. I think it was 7E per adult and 3E per child, so it was 17E total. Very steep, but we figured it was the best way to see the city.

The tram ride was excellent. We got to see the harbor area, with its olympic swimming pool, waterslide area, and yachting area.

Then, it went up the hill towards the beautiful gardens and the Casino. That was simply stunning. Finally, it ended going through a system of tunnels at different levels throughout the city. Talk about confusing. During this time, the tour became more one of propoganda about how great Monaco is, how there is low crime because of the high ratio of police to citizens, how the economy is robust and nobody is unemployed, how great the royal family is, etc... Finally, we got back up the hill to the old town area and saw the palace and then back to the aquarium area.




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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 08:26 AM
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We then went back to the Aquarium area, had a bite to eat, and then decided to tour the aquarium. I think the fee was a stiff 16E per person.

The aquarium itself is pretty small compared to American aquariums. There is a quite large tropical fish tank, which was hard to recreate this far from the tropics. It has coral, sharks, and the colorful Caribbean fish we all love.

There are also exhibits dedicated to Mediterranean marine life which were quite interesting.

My son particularly enjoyed the clown fish exhibit, where he said "Look, there's Nemo and all his brothers and sisters." That exhibit is really worth the whole price of admission, as my son loved it so much.

The aquarium is on the lower floors and there is a quite boring exhibit on the upper floors that we walked through, but really didn't have time to tour.

We got a very late lunch at a stand, where sandwiches cost $3.5 E each and water costs $1.5E each. This was one of the better deals we had seen.

I really wanted to see more, but my wife had planned which train we had to catch, and it was an hour train ride back, so we had to head back to the train station. We took a bus back to the train station and boarded the next train.

Now, this train was quite old and didn't have air conditioning. It was around 30C that day, so the train was a bit warm and we both fell asleep on it with the wind blowing on our faces from the open window.

That night we ate at, guess where? Veneto Cafe. This time I had the Petit Friture de la mer and shared with my son. My wife had salade caraibes, my FIL had moules mariniere, and my MIL had quatre saisons.

I enjoyed the petit fritures but I would only request that perhaps they have a dipping sauce or tartar sauce with it? I guess us Americans like our dipping sauces.

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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 02:35 PM
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Very enjoyable bk! Am bookmarking for the NO info.
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 05:51 PM
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I have enjoyed your trip report, especially your son's reactions reliving my trip there last summer. For others using it to plan their time in Monaco, I just would like to add a couple things.

Yes, the aquarium was really interesting, in and of itself, but it would have been useful for you to do some research ahead of time to put it in all in its context...when Monaco achieved independence, a source of revenue was needed- hence the start of gambling- hence the trains there!

The "boring" upstairs is NOT so boring if you know how much they worship Albert I!!! He was a passionate scientist and that's why the aquarium is there.

Ditto for Prince Rainier and his contributions (to say nothing of the giant Grace Kelly posters all over the place!) and it was just a few moments to duck into the church and see their graves. Can't you just imagine her, now, driving on the "corniches"?

Albert II has only worn the crown for several years- he has big shoes to fill...

The exotic gardens at the tippy top are spectacular and if you are traveling with kids there is a cool (literally) "grotte" to tour, too.
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 06:20 PM
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sglass,

"The "boring" upstairs is NOT so boring if you know how much they worship Albert I!!!"

I should have said "it was boring to my wife and child".

I tried to convince them to take some more time touring the exhibits, but they were getting hungry and I didn't want our son to get cranky.

I do know the history of Monaco and that gambling is a source of their main revenue and that's why the citizens don't pay taxes. If I was in the tax bracket of most of the citizens there, perhaps I would even move there, but like that is going to happen

Very sad about Grace Kelly and the auto accident, indeed. Those roads are quite dangerous - several times I thought our bus was going to fall off the side of the cliff.

I hope Albert is able to find a wife. Last I heard he must have a male heir or the country reverts back to France. Talk about pressure, huh?

Thanks for the other information. Like I said, I could have stayed there for several days but my wife is Swiss, so we stick to the schedule on the second...
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 06:23 PM
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Now, onto July 16th.

Inlaws are now back in Switzerland and it is just the three of us.

My wife scheduled us for a trip to St. Tropez via the ferry. It was very expensive, at 40E each, for 80E. Luckily, the little one was free.

The ferry takes around 2 hours, but it is probably the best way to get to St. Tropez (or is the most stylish way). I hear the traffic there and back is horrendous.

The weather was sunny and warm in Juan-les-Pins, but it became a bit cloudy as we headed to St. Tropez. There are three types of seating on the boat, the bow, the stern, and inside.

The boat ride was jam packed, so once you chose a spot, you had to stay there the whole time. Thus, you must choose your spot wisely (or you could get soaked or chilled to the bone).

If you sit up front on the bow, then you'll be getting a constant 40 MPH wind on you and it will be quite chilly, unless you wear a sweater or other gear. Since my defacto outfit in the summer is shorts, t-shirt, and sandals, that is not my cup of tea.

The other alternative is sitting back in the stern. You don't get the extreme wind but you do get enough to cool you off. However, if you sit on the sides, you can get soaked. Two British women sitting on the starboard side of the stern were literally soaked by the end of the return trip. Another couple had to leave that area because they were so soaked.

On the way there, I sat inside with my son, as we couldn't nab a spot outside. However, on the return, I got a nice spot in the middle of the stern, where I got a slight mist from time to time and a light breeze. It was a very enjoyable experience. Just keep that in mind when you go to get a seat.






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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 09:01 PM
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<i>In 2002, a new treaty between France and Monaco specified that, should there be no heirs to carry on the Grimaldi dynasty, the principality would still remain an independent nation rather than revert to France.</i>

The Monaco train station opened in 1999. The old station was above ground. The new station is built in the same style as the RER E stations in Paris (Haussmann-Saint Lazare and Magenta) with tropical wood, marble and intricate lighting on the ceiling. It is also interesting to note that the Monaco train station is partially in France, including part of each of the 13 levels of the car park.
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 12:40 AM
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Indeed we are very very proud of the Oceanographic Institute, and at one time in the early early days of Monaco (before my time :-0 ) there was only a few buildings sticking out of the rock in all of Monaco, these were the Institute, the Casino, the Riviera Palace in Beusoleil and the Train station. In between there was only a few farmhouses, olive groves and small fishermans cottages.

So the Institute was SO advanced for it's time and Albert (of the time ) was the first in the world to begin charting the Ocean floor.

Please don't visit Monaco without seeing the incredible history contained in the images and other media on display in the Institute, and of course the fish in the aquarium are beautiful, including the oldest Moray Eel in the world. He's an ugly critter but that's to be expected.

For excellent guides to Monaco, try this resource.

http://www.rivierarentalguide.com/ex...is+monaco.html
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 07:03 AM
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kerouac,

&quot;In 2002, a new treaty between France and Monaco specified that, should there be no heirs to carry on the Grimaldi dynasty, the principality would still remain an independent nation rather than revert to France.&quot;

Wouldn't it have been easier for Albert to just find a wife and impregnate her? Surely there are women who wouldn't mind their son becoming ruler of a country guaranteed? I'd imagine Albert can get any woman he wants.
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