RIsab & Daughter: Rome with Umbrellas in Hand
Dec 7th, 2008, 06:46 AM
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RIsab & Daughter: Rome with Umbrellas in Hand
My daughter L and I went to Rome from November 23 - Dec 2 to celebrate her 18th birthday and to visit with my college friend (we met as art students in Rome and she now teaches a few months a year in Rome). Hubby was at home happy for us to have a mommy & daughter time before "L" heads off to college.
To preface this is our 5th trip to Rome - one of our favorite cities but no matter how many times we visit there is always much to do and see. My daughter also traveled to Italy this summer with a program called AbbeyRoad and studied Italian language, culture and art in Tuscania, Florence, and Rome so she was very excited to return and use her language skills and share her knowledge with me.
I will say that this was one of our easiest trips from start to finish...our flight from JFK on Delta took off on time- 5:15 PM. I had used FFmiles to purchase L's ticket and I had to get a business class seat over and coach on return. Since it was L's birthday I thought she'd love to sit in first class but she insisted that I sit in first class since I occasionally have back and neck pain...and that was very nice so I was able to get a few hours of sleep. They did allow me to take a cheese platter to her in coach which she appreciated!
When we arrived in Rome at 8:00 AM and breezed through passport control and our luggage was first to arrive. We went out of baggage claim and there were two limo drivers holding signs with our last name. I originally booked with romelimo but then cancelled because they never showed up at the airport when we went to Rome two years ago (they did pick us up for the return). I booked with ROMECABS instead but low and behold Rome Limo was there, too. I was met by Enza from RomeCabs and she spoke to the other driver explaining that I cancelled. She was so lovely and insisted on pulling my luggage. We stopped at the bank machine because I needed additonal $ for my apartment fee but the bank machine was not working. Lots of traffic into Rome and Enza was just lovely to speak with. She called the person who was to meet me at the apartment and said we were on our way.
We rented our apartment through SleepinItaly- Monte di Pieta. I already posted about the apartment because some fodorites were waiting to hear my review. Two years ago we rented an apt. with sleepinitaly in Trastevere - great location but lots of problems with the apt. They offered to move us but we weren't up to it so we stuck it out, they gave us back a few Euro and we still had a great vacation. So when I contacted them to rent for this trip they were so pleased I returned and gave me a discount and offered me choices of a several very nice places. Monte di Pieta was just wonderful- off Via Giubonarri and a few steps away from the Campo Fiori. The apartment was immaculate, spacious, had hot water and heat, comfortable bed, Sky TV with a million channels,and the kitchen was well-stocked for eating and cooking. It could not have been more perfect. The building was quiet and also very charming. I did not have all of the money for the payment but the man who met me was willing to come back the next morning. He also came back to help my daughter get internet connection. I highly recommend sleepinitaly - but do your homework and research apartments so you don't have the experience I had the first time - and that apartment is no longer on their market.
When we arrived in Rome is was a bit grey and drizzling...basically it rained at some point every day but usually for only about 5 minute intervals. Thus, we never went out without our umbrellas. As for temperature...days were basically mild - I had a winter coat and lighter rain coat that I usually wore during the day. Evenings were cool and required a winter coat, gloves, and scarf but much milder than NY where we live.
Day 1:
Jumped for joy when we saw how nice the apartment was!
Then we unpacked and took a nice 3 hour nap. We awoke and freshened up then went for lunch. It was raining hard so we quickly found a restaurant that had an appealing menu - Fratelli di Bufalo right off of the Campo. We ordered two insalata mistas and a margherita pizza. The salads were huge and beautiful with lots of vegetables, potatoes, and sliced pumpkin. The pizza was our least favorite because it had smoked mozzarella. But we ate a few pieces and were sufficiently stuffed.
It had stopped raining so we walked to the Pantheon then over to the supermarket before heading back to the apartment. We spent our evening visiting with my friend who lives on Via Cestari (near the Pantheon) -we were still full from the afternoon meal so we just munched on some cheese and olives & wine and passed on dinner.
Day 2
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the shower was too hot and I had to turn it off to readjust the temperature. We were so happy to have hot showers daily! Great size shower stall with large shower head.
We had a nice breakfast then the paid the rest of our apartment fee before going out to meet my friend at the school she teaches at in the Ghetto, stopped for some wine to take back, and had lunch together at my apartment.
After lunch L and I took a walk...still a grey day...no sunshine so the "jet laggy feeling" lingered a bit. We walked down Via Guila and my daughter recounted what she had learned about this street this summer. Then we headed to Trastevere to visit a lovely store on Vicolo di Cinque called Anna Retico Designs. She is a jewelry maker using glass and she makes beautiful earings, necklaces, rings, etc. My daughter bought me earrings at her store this summer and wanted to take me to her store. It was right next to the apartment we stayed at two years ago. We bought some earrings for ourselve and some gifts. Her prices our very reasonable. Then we went to the Museum of Rome - just around the corner - to see the Lisette Model photo exhibit. Excellent exhibit of Lisette Model's works and other photographers she inspired. We loved this exhibit. Stopped in Santa Maria Trastevere to admire the art. We were fading by now so we both had a cappucino then stopped by an optical store to try on frames. The staff were very sweet and I explained that my brother was an optomistrist who could get me lenses but I wanted to just buy frames. They said they would give me a discount if we bought frames...we didn't buy any but took the card...
It started to rain again so we headed back to the apartment. We thought of going out to dinner but we were both tired so we went around the corner, bought pizza taglio and had dinner at home.
It was nice to have a nice space to relax in, watch TV and then go to bed.
Day 3
Awoke to beautiful weather - sunshine and we needed it! We slept late, had a light breakfast and headed out close to noon. We walked to Piazza di Spagna and with a stop at Sportstaff (spotted a few things but decided to come back later since we didn't want to carry bags yet)...then headed for lunch at Canova on Piazza del Popolo. When I was a student in Rome I lived in a pension on Via Babuino- it is now a posh hotel. We sat outside at Canova and enjoyed people watching while we at lunch - bruschetta pomodoro, salad w/pear, rucolo & cheese, roasted potatoes - and for me a glass of persecco to celebrate the sun! My daughter decided that old Italian men were just adorable so she waved to an old man passing by on his bike - and of course he waved back! After lunch we headed into the Borghese Gardens on our way to the Gallery for a 3:00 appt. The park was just lovely and from the sky was blue so the view from the Pincio was gorgeous. Then we noticed the thousands of starlings flying from trees and flying all over Rome...they looked like kinetic graphite designes in the sky...really lovely but we did have a few Alfred Hitchcock moments...
We had time before the gallery so we sat in the sun for a while and enjoyed the day...my daughter again took notice of an old man reading and cutting his apple carefully with a knife...these were her charming Italian moments.
Off to the Borghese gallery...this is our usual pilgrimage because we are in love with Bernini's sculptures...it was crowded but we enjoyed our time.
Then we headed back to Sportstaff - bought a dress for L and headed back to the apartment...it started to drizzle by now.
Dinner that evening was with our friend at Orso 80 - we had been there many years back and she wanted to try it again...we ordered the antipasta and my daughter had a plate of pasta...the antipasta was not as good as my first time there and "L's" pasta was not cooked enough. They replaced her dish and it was good...not a memorable meal.
Took a walk, stopped for a while at friends apt. then headed back around 11:00 and slept great!
Day 4 Thanksgiving
Another beautiful day! Slept late...Walked to Campo Fiori to buy food for Thanksgiving dinner...menu: salad, gigantes in tomato sauce (Greek recipe), mushroom, asiago cheese, and tomato frittata, and rosemary & olive breads (vegetarian).
While shopping in one of the market stalls I noticed the woman assisting me was wearing an Obama button. I pointed to it and spoke a little Italian and she hugged me and then showed me her Obama/Biden sticker on the pole of her stall. She was so happy for Obama. Later in the day I took "L" over to meet her. There were many other incidents throughout our week where people expressed happiness about our new President (even the Indian men selling umbrellas)...such a difference from my past trips...
...headed back to the apt. and cooked a few dishes to have for dinner. Then we headed to the Ghetto to our favorite store to get olive & rosemary breads and more olives. We dropped those off at my friends apt. then we all headed off to the Vermeer to Rembrant exhibit.
We were a bit disappointed with the exhibit because we thought there would be more Vermeer's and Rembrants -there were one or two of each artist along with their contemporaries. The works were very good but not what we expected.
We took a walk and did a lot of window shopping then stopped (by chance) at Obika Mozzarella Bar for cappucinno and snack (and L had a mozz & tomato sandwich). The place is very lovely. Picked up some dessert for dinner then my daughter found a store with shoes she just had to have...
We were exhausted by now so we all went back to our apartments to rest before dinner. My friend came by about 8:00 and we had a great dinner. We took out the tart for dessert - it was a cherry tart that looked delicious. We all took a bite and then our mouths shriveled up and we all bust out laughing...sour cherry tart! It just wasn't a big hit. So we tossed it and had some chocolate instead.
Day 5
Slept late again...we just were not in too much of a hurry since it was raining again...Made omelets for breakfast then left after noon and headed for the Vatican for our Scavi Tour. It was just starting to pour when we got to the Vatican -perfect timing. It was interesting but not as profound as I thought it would be but the tour guide was just a "hoot" - she was very dramatic and her English was a bit hard to understand. It was an experience. After the tour we headed to Via Cola di Rienza - stopped raining (one of our fav areas to shop). We stopped for a late lunch then did some shopping.
We both bought two sweaters - one for my husband and one for L's boyfriend along. When we got back to the apt. my daughter checked the things she bought and put the sweater against her skin...itchy wool - She knew that her boyfriend would hate the sweater. I tried on my husbands and yes, itchy wool. We didn't even think of this when we bought them. Well...I knew that we could not return them but I said we'd go back the next day to see if they would exchange them.
Dinner that night was Cul de Sac- one of our favorites. My friend had never heard of the restaurant so she was so pleased to go there and loved it. L and I shared potato pie, greek salad, and hummus. Delicious. We celebrated with some berlucci. Then we took a walk in the rain, stopped at Della Palma for delicious gelato and headed back to the apt. around 11:30.
...we had thought of taking a day trip to Perugia or Assissi but decided we were enjoying just hanging out in Rome and liked the balance of resting in the morning and running around 'til late....
Day 6
First thing...quick breakfast we headed right back to store we bought the sweaters - explained that they were itchy and the salesmen was very pleasant and allowed us to exchange them for softer sweaters. We were happy!
On our walk back, when we got near to the Castle St. Angelo we could not believe the sound the starling birds were making - that was our Alfred Hitchcock "Birds" moment. Yes the birds were really a problem.
Dropped off the sweaters and had some lunch and then headed out for a walk to the Forum...it was sunny and mild so we took off our coats as we walked...we decided to go to the Palatine Hill and enjoyed the walk, sunshine, and views. L loves taking photos and loved doing photos here. We stayed 'til closing then headed to the Pantheon - and sat outside and had some persecco and snack and relaxed.
We headed to Hostaria Pizzeria on Vicola della Cinque in Trastevere - L was craving their pizza. We had two salads and shared a margherita pizza, soda and 1/2 bottle of wine...yummy and very economical.
Then we walked to meet my friend for an evening walk and gelato. I had Peperoncino Chocoate & Cappucinno- decadent and delicious. Hung out 'til about midnight then headed home quite tired.
Day 7
Woke up at 4:00 AM to a loud thunderstorm and had a sad moment thinking it would be another rainy day before falling back to bed...
Woke up and the sun was out and it was very pleasant. After breakfast we decided to go for a walk up to the Janiculum Hill. L loved the walk and took some wonderful photos. Lots of families with kids out for Sunday strolls.
Walked back through Trastevere and stopped at Piazza Santa Maria...Cafe Arancia for cappucinno and lunch. What a moment when the sun was shining on us as we sat! Then it was off to do a bit of shopping along Via Giubonarri before heading to the Picasso exhibit.
We went to the exhibit around 4:30 and it was very crowded. The exhibit is just excellent! When we left the Picasso we went to the Pavorotti exhibit at the same museum and that was also quite an experience. The room was filled with costumes, awards, and photos exhibits of Luciano with world leaders, celebrities and musicians, and operas he performed in. In the middle was a large screen with videos of Pavorotti and seating for viewers - the room was filled with many older Italian people who were just mesmorized watching the videos- you could feel the love and admiration. L and I were just enthralled as we watched him perform on the screeen. She had not been exposed to Pavorotti so this was new for her. It was one of our highlights of our trip.
Afterwards we headed to Pipiro to buy a gift for L's friend and then met our friend and had dinner at Macaroni. Food was delicious. We all shared two different salads. I had Macaroni Arrabiata and L had Pesto Linguini. Yum. L was up for gelato so we did our nightly stop at Della Palma and of course, L was known graciously greeted as she was a nightly visitor.
We bid our friend good night since she had to get up for work the next morning and headed for a long walk through Piazza Navonna, over to the Castle for an evening view from the bridge..then headed through the back streets to the Campo before calling it a day...tomorrow would be our last day so I did some packing before going to bed.
Day 8
Our last day...this was L's food day to eat all of her favorite things! We woke up earlier to have a longer day. We went for capucinno at a bar on Via Arenula and L had a decedant creme filled coronetto to start the day. Then we headed over to the Campo to buy olive oils, aceto, olives and cheese to take home -some for gifts and some for me! Packed the olive oil and aceto carefully in my suitcase. We dropped off the items and then put on warmer coats because what started as a sunny morning became a bit balmy and cool.
We headed over to the Trevi fountain to throw our coins - we had a feeling we would not make it over in the evening - Then headed towards Piazza del Popolo because L wanted to have lunch at Canova again. Stopped along the way because I found the coolest comfortable zebra stripped & patten leather flats - shoe happiness! Also bought some lovely brown gloves.
On our way to Canova it started to rain so we ducked into a building that turned out to be the church of San Silvestri - then it started to hail and we were joined by a host of people. It didn't last too long but that was a trip. We decided not to go to Canova and instead we had lunch at Dal Pallaro 1936 on Via Ripetta. L had a delicious lasagna and I had salad and carciofo romano - yum. Service was very gracious.
We walked back towards the Pantheon, window shopping of course and L decided that she wanted some sweets so we headed into a cafe and she bought some cookies and a nutella filled sfogliadel - really sweet. Stopped at Il Fornio off of the Campo to buy Rosemary Bread to take home then headed to the apt so we could pack and rest.
After L packed she decided she wanted to go back to the jewelry store in Trastevere to buy another pair of earrings. So off we headed to Trastevere...by now we had purchased almost all of her earrings...on our way back to the apt. we stopped at the optical store we visited our first day. We decided to try on frames and since they were less expensive than prices in the US (even with the exchange) I decided to buy a frames for each of us. The store owners gave us an additional 30 Euro off each pair...quite nice.
By now we were exhausted but the day was not over. We headed to our friends apt. then back to Cul de Sac at her request because she just loved the restaurant. This time we had basically the same food but added the Spinach pudding to our order. It was so good I ordered seconds! We tried a chestnut merengue dessert but only our friend liked that...
Last night so L had to go to Della Palma for her gelato and to bid arrividerci to her friends.
We hugged our friend and said our goodbyes then headed back to the apartment for bed....
Day 9
We were up at 5:30. Showered and had a quick breakfast. Enza from RomeCabs was waiting for us at 7:00. On our way to the airport we were driving through a lovely neighborhood and I asked her where we were..."aventino" - then she said she wanted to show us something...she took us to the "key hole" at the knights of Malta...L and I both looked through the key hole and what a lovely sight it was as the sun was rising over St. Peter's. That was our last image of our beloved Rome before heading to the airport...of course, we thanked Enza with grazia mille.
...our flight took off on time...slept a while...food was lousy in coach...landed at JFK at 2:30 and our suitcases once again were first off the plane...my husband met us at the airport and then took us for a lovely Italian meal in Brooklyn so that we would continue to have our Italy experience until bedtime...we missed him!...
It was another great trip to Rome. L and I had a lot of fun together!
My dream is to go back to Rome next year with my husband to celebrate my birthday and stay in the same apartment...
Happy travels!
To preface this is our 5th trip to Rome - one of our favorite cities but no matter how many times we visit there is always much to do and see. My daughter also traveled to Italy this summer with a program called AbbeyRoad and studied Italian language, culture and art in Tuscania, Florence, and Rome so she was very excited to return and use her language skills and share her knowledge with me.
I will say that this was one of our easiest trips from start to finish...our flight from JFK on Delta took off on time- 5:15 PM. I had used FFmiles to purchase L's ticket and I had to get a business class seat over and coach on return. Since it was L's birthday I thought she'd love to sit in first class but she insisted that I sit in first class since I occasionally have back and neck pain...and that was very nice so I was able to get a few hours of sleep. They did allow me to take a cheese platter to her in coach which she appreciated!
When we arrived in Rome at 8:00 AM and breezed through passport control and our luggage was first to arrive. We went out of baggage claim and there were two limo drivers holding signs with our last name. I originally booked with romelimo but then cancelled because they never showed up at the airport when we went to Rome two years ago (they did pick us up for the return). I booked with ROMECABS instead but low and behold Rome Limo was there, too. I was met by Enza from RomeCabs and she spoke to the other driver explaining that I cancelled. She was so lovely and insisted on pulling my luggage. We stopped at the bank machine because I needed additonal $ for my apartment fee but the bank machine was not working. Lots of traffic into Rome and Enza was just lovely to speak with. She called the person who was to meet me at the apartment and said we were on our way.
We rented our apartment through SleepinItaly- Monte di Pieta. I already posted about the apartment because some fodorites were waiting to hear my review. Two years ago we rented an apt. with sleepinitaly in Trastevere - great location but lots of problems with the apt. They offered to move us but we weren't up to it so we stuck it out, they gave us back a few Euro and we still had a great vacation. So when I contacted them to rent for this trip they were so pleased I returned and gave me a discount and offered me choices of a several very nice places. Monte di Pieta was just wonderful- off Via Giubonarri and a few steps away from the Campo Fiori. The apartment was immaculate, spacious, had hot water and heat, comfortable bed, Sky TV with a million channels,and the kitchen was well-stocked for eating and cooking. It could not have been more perfect. The building was quiet and also very charming. I did not have all of the money for the payment but the man who met me was willing to come back the next morning. He also came back to help my daughter get internet connection. I highly recommend sleepinitaly - but do your homework and research apartments so you don't have the experience I had the first time - and that apartment is no longer on their market.
When we arrived in Rome is was a bit grey and drizzling...basically it rained at some point every day but usually for only about 5 minute intervals. Thus, we never went out without our umbrellas. As for temperature...days were basically mild - I had a winter coat and lighter rain coat that I usually wore during the day. Evenings were cool and required a winter coat, gloves, and scarf but much milder than NY where we live.
Day 1:
Jumped for joy when we saw how nice the apartment was!
Then we unpacked and took a nice 3 hour nap. We awoke and freshened up then went for lunch. It was raining hard so we quickly found a restaurant that had an appealing menu - Fratelli di Bufalo right off of the Campo. We ordered two insalata mistas and a margherita pizza. The salads were huge and beautiful with lots of vegetables, potatoes, and sliced pumpkin. The pizza was our least favorite because it had smoked mozzarella. But we ate a few pieces and were sufficiently stuffed.
It had stopped raining so we walked to the Pantheon then over to the supermarket before heading back to the apartment. We spent our evening visiting with my friend who lives on Via Cestari (near the Pantheon) -we were still full from the afternoon meal so we just munched on some cheese and olives & wine and passed on dinner.
Day 2
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the shower was too hot and I had to turn it off to readjust the temperature. We were so happy to have hot showers daily! Great size shower stall with large shower head.
We had a nice breakfast then the paid the rest of our apartment fee before going out to meet my friend at the school she teaches at in the Ghetto, stopped for some wine to take back, and had lunch together at my apartment.
After lunch L and I took a walk...still a grey day...no sunshine so the "jet laggy feeling" lingered a bit. We walked down Via Guila and my daughter recounted what she had learned about this street this summer. Then we headed to Trastevere to visit a lovely store on Vicolo di Cinque called Anna Retico Designs. She is a jewelry maker using glass and she makes beautiful earings, necklaces, rings, etc. My daughter bought me earrings at her store this summer and wanted to take me to her store. It was right next to the apartment we stayed at two years ago. We bought some earrings for ourselve and some gifts. Her prices our very reasonable. Then we went to the Museum of Rome - just around the corner - to see the Lisette Model photo exhibit. Excellent exhibit of Lisette Model's works and other photographers she inspired. We loved this exhibit. Stopped in Santa Maria Trastevere to admire the art. We were fading by now so we both had a cappucino then stopped by an optical store to try on frames. The staff were very sweet and I explained that my brother was an optomistrist who could get me lenses but I wanted to just buy frames. They said they would give me a discount if we bought frames...we didn't buy any but took the card...
It started to rain again so we headed back to the apartment. We thought of going out to dinner but we were both tired so we went around the corner, bought pizza taglio and had dinner at home.
It was nice to have a nice space to relax in, watch TV and then go to bed.
Day 3
Awoke to beautiful weather - sunshine and we needed it! We slept late, had a light breakfast and headed out close to noon. We walked to Piazza di Spagna and with a stop at Sportstaff (spotted a few things but decided to come back later since we didn't want to carry bags yet)...then headed for lunch at Canova on Piazza del Popolo. When I was a student in Rome I lived in a pension on Via Babuino- it is now a posh hotel. We sat outside at Canova and enjoyed people watching while we at lunch - bruschetta pomodoro, salad w/pear, rucolo & cheese, roasted potatoes - and for me a glass of persecco to celebrate the sun! My daughter decided that old Italian men were just adorable so she waved to an old man passing by on his bike - and of course he waved back! After lunch we headed into the Borghese Gardens on our way to the Gallery for a 3:00 appt. The park was just lovely and from the sky was blue so the view from the Pincio was gorgeous. Then we noticed the thousands of starlings flying from trees and flying all over Rome...they looked like kinetic graphite designes in the sky...really lovely but we did have a few Alfred Hitchcock moments...
We had time before the gallery so we sat in the sun for a while and enjoyed the day...my daughter again took notice of an old man reading and cutting his apple carefully with a knife...these were her charming Italian moments.
Off to the Borghese gallery...this is our usual pilgrimage because we are in love with Bernini's sculptures...it was crowded but we enjoyed our time.
Then we headed back to Sportstaff - bought a dress for L and headed back to the apartment...it started to drizzle by now.
Dinner that evening was with our friend at Orso 80 - we had been there many years back and she wanted to try it again...we ordered the antipasta and my daughter had a plate of pasta...the antipasta was not as good as my first time there and "L's" pasta was not cooked enough. They replaced her dish and it was good...not a memorable meal.
Took a walk, stopped for a while at friends apt. then headed back around 11:00 and slept great!
Day 4 Thanksgiving
Another beautiful day! Slept late...Walked to Campo Fiori to buy food for Thanksgiving dinner...menu: salad, gigantes in tomato sauce (Greek recipe), mushroom, asiago cheese, and tomato frittata, and rosemary & olive breads (vegetarian).
While shopping in one of the market stalls I noticed the woman assisting me was wearing an Obama button. I pointed to it and spoke a little Italian and she hugged me and then showed me her Obama/Biden sticker on the pole of her stall. She was so happy for Obama. Later in the day I took "L" over to meet her. There were many other incidents throughout our week where people expressed happiness about our new President (even the Indian men selling umbrellas)...such a difference from my past trips...
...headed back to the apt. and cooked a few dishes to have for dinner. Then we headed to the Ghetto to our favorite store to get olive & rosemary breads and more olives. We dropped those off at my friends apt. then we all headed off to the Vermeer to Rembrant exhibit.
We were a bit disappointed with the exhibit because we thought there would be more Vermeer's and Rembrants -there were one or two of each artist along with their contemporaries. The works were very good but not what we expected.
We took a walk and did a lot of window shopping then stopped (by chance) at Obika Mozzarella Bar for cappucinno and snack (and L had a mozz & tomato sandwich). The place is very lovely. Picked up some dessert for dinner then my daughter found a store with shoes she just had to have...
We were exhausted by now so we all went back to our apartments to rest before dinner. My friend came by about 8:00 and we had a great dinner. We took out the tart for dessert - it was a cherry tart that looked delicious. We all took a bite and then our mouths shriveled up and we all bust out laughing...sour cherry tart! It just wasn't a big hit. So we tossed it and had some chocolate instead.
Day 5
Slept late again...we just were not in too much of a hurry since it was raining again...Made omelets for breakfast then left after noon and headed for the Vatican for our Scavi Tour. It was just starting to pour when we got to the Vatican -perfect timing. It was interesting but not as profound as I thought it would be but the tour guide was just a "hoot" - she was very dramatic and her English was a bit hard to understand. It was an experience. After the tour we headed to Via Cola di Rienza - stopped raining (one of our fav areas to shop). We stopped for a late lunch then did some shopping.
We both bought two sweaters - one for my husband and one for L's boyfriend along. When we got back to the apt. my daughter checked the things she bought and put the sweater against her skin...itchy wool - She knew that her boyfriend would hate the sweater. I tried on my husbands and yes, itchy wool. We didn't even think of this when we bought them. Well...I knew that we could not return them but I said we'd go back the next day to see if they would exchange them.
Dinner that night was Cul de Sac- one of our favorites. My friend had never heard of the restaurant so she was so pleased to go there and loved it. L and I shared potato pie, greek salad, and hummus. Delicious. We celebrated with some berlucci. Then we took a walk in the rain, stopped at Della Palma for delicious gelato and headed back to the apt. around 11:30.
...we had thought of taking a day trip to Perugia or Assissi but decided we were enjoying just hanging out in Rome and liked the balance of resting in the morning and running around 'til late....
Day 6
First thing...quick breakfast we headed right back to store we bought the sweaters - explained that they were itchy and the salesmen was very pleasant and allowed us to exchange them for softer sweaters. We were happy!
On our walk back, when we got near to the Castle St. Angelo we could not believe the sound the starling birds were making - that was our Alfred Hitchcock "Birds" moment. Yes the birds were really a problem.
Dropped off the sweaters and had some lunch and then headed out for a walk to the Forum...it was sunny and mild so we took off our coats as we walked...we decided to go to the Palatine Hill and enjoyed the walk, sunshine, and views. L loves taking photos and loved doing photos here. We stayed 'til closing then headed to the Pantheon - and sat outside and had some persecco and snack and relaxed.
We headed to Hostaria Pizzeria on Vicola della Cinque in Trastevere - L was craving their pizza. We had two salads and shared a margherita pizza, soda and 1/2 bottle of wine...yummy and very economical.
Then we walked to meet my friend for an evening walk and gelato. I had Peperoncino Chocoate & Cappucinno- decadent and delicious. Hung out 'til about midnight then headed home quite tired.
Day 7
Woke up at 4:00 AM to a loud thunderstorm and had a sad moment thinking it would be another rainy day before falling back to bed...
Woke up and the sun was out and it was very pleasant. After breakfast we decided to go for a walk up to the Janiculum Hill. L loved the walk and took some wonderful photos. Lots of families with kids out for Sunday strolls.
Walked back through Trastevere and stopped at Piazza Santa Maria...Cafe Arancia for cappucinno and lunch. What a moment when the sun was shining on us as we sat! Then it was off to do a bit of shopping along Via Giubonarri before heading to the Picasso exhibit.
We went to the exhibit around 4:30 and it was very crowded. The exhibit is just excellent! When we left the Picasso we went to the Pavorotti exhibit at the same museum and that was also quite an experience. The room was filled with costumes, awards, and photos exhibits of Luciano with world leaders, celebrities and musicians, and operas he performed in. In the middle was a large screen with videos of Pavorotti and seating for viewers - the room was filled with many older Italian people who were just mesmorized watching the videos- you could feel the love and admiration. L and I were just enthralled as we watched him perform on the screeen. She had not been exposed to Pavorotti so this was new for her. It was one of our highlights of our trip.
Afterwards we headed to Pipiro to buy a gift for L's friend and then met our friend and had dinner at Macaroni. Food was delicious. We all shared two different salads. I had Macaroni Arrabiata and L had Pesto Linguini. Yum. L was up for gelato so we did our nightly stop at Della Palma and of course, L was known graciously greeted as she was a nightly visitor.
We bid our friend good night since she had to get up for work the next morning and headed for a long walk through Piazza Navonna, over to the Castle for an evening view from the bridge..then headed through the back streets to the Campo before calling it a day...tomorrow would be our last day so I did some packing before going to bed.
Day 8
Our last day...this was L's food day to eat all of her favorite things! We woke up earlier to have a longer day. We went for capucinno at a bar on Via Arenula and L had a decedant creme filled coronetto to start the day. Then we headed over to the Campo to buy olive oils, aceto, olives and cheese to take home -some for gifts and some for me! Packed the olive oil and aceto carefully in my suitcase. We dropped off the items and then put on warmer coats because what started as a sunny morning became a bit balmy and cool.
We headed over to the Trevi fountain to throw our coins - we had a feeling we would not make it over in the evening - Then headed towards Piazza del Popolo because L wanted to have lunch at Canova again. Stopped along the way because I found the coolest comfortable zebra stripped & patten leather flats - shoe happiness! Also bought some lovely brown gloves.
On our way to Canova it started to rain so we ducked into a building that turned out to be the church of San Silvestri - then it started to hail and we were joined by a host of people. It didn't last too long but that was a trip. We decided not to go to Canova and instead we had lunch at Dal Pallaro 1936 on Via Ripetta. L had a delicious lasagna and I had salad and carciofo romano - yum. Service was very gracious.
We walked back towards the Pantheon, window shopping of course and L decided that she wanted some sweets so we headed into a cafe and she bought some cookies and a nutella filled sfogliadel - really sweet. Stopped at Il Fornio off of the Campo to buy Rosemary Bread to take home then headed to the apt so we could pack and rest.
After L packed she decided she wanted to go back to the jewelry store in Trastevere to buy another pair of earrings. So off we headed to Trastevere...by now we had purchased almost all of her earrings...on our way back to the apt. we stopped at the optical store we visited our first day. We decided to try on frames and since they were less expensive than prices in the US (even with the exchange) I decided to buy a frames for each of us. The store owners gave us an additional 30 Euro off each pair...quite nice.
By now we were exhausted but the day was not over. We headed to our friends apt. then back to Cul de Sac at her request because she just loved the restaurant. This time we had basically the same food but added the Spinach pudding to our order. It was so good I ordered seconds! We tried a chestnut merengue dessert but only our friend liked that...
Last night so L had to go to Della Palma for her gelato and to bid arrividerci to her friends.
We hugged our friend and said our goodbyes then headed back to the apartment for bed....
Day 9
We were up at 5:30. Showered and had a quick breakfast. Enza from RomeCabs was waiting for us at 7:00. On our way to the airport we were driving through a lovely neighborhood and I asked her where we were..."aventino" - then she said she wanted to show us something...she took us to the "key hole" at the knights of Malta...L and I both looked through the key hole and what a lovely sight it was as the sun was rising over St. Peter's. That was our last image of our beloved Rome before heading to the airport...of course, we thanked Enza with grazia mille.
...our flight took off on time...slept a while...food was lousy in coach...landed at JFK at 2:30 and our suitcases once again were first off the plane...my husband met us at the airport and then took us for a lovely Italian meal in Brooklyn so that we would continue to have our Italy experience until bedtime...we missed him!...
It was another great trip to Rome. L and I had a lot of fun together!
My dream is to go back to Rome next year with my husband to celebrate my birthday and stay in the same apartment...
Happy travels!
Dec 7th, 2008, 08:24 AM
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Loved your report! I'll be back in Rome in February and can't wait, so reading this was a treat. Do you have the name and street of the place in the Ghetto where you got the olive and rosemary bread? Or were you talking about Il Fornio?
Dec 7th, 2008, 11:01 AM
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The place in the ghetto is on Via d'ottavia across is Il Fornio is kosher except it is connected to a meat market & cheese shop that is not kosher(obviously)- across the street from Forno del Ghetto bakery.
Dec 7th, 2008, 03:11 PM
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I totally understand the "Alfred Hitchcock "Birds" moment" 
.
Had my 1st experience walking alone at dark dusk by the Baths of Diocletian with alot of open sky.
It was massive swarm moving and shieking in unison against the dimming sky.
But afterwards I started thinking of all those earthquake stories I've heard where the animals get crazed just before a quake.
And was alittle rattled that night.
But found out later that is just there natural behaviour.
Regards, Walter
.Had my 1st experience walking alone at dark dusk by the Baths of Diocletian with alot of open sky.
It was massive swarm moving and shieking in unison against the dimming sky.
But afterwards I started thinking of all those earthquake stories I've heard where the animals get crazed just before a quake.
And was alittle rattled that night
.But found out later that is just there natural behaviour.
Regards, Walter
Dec 7th, 2008, 05:20 PM
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The optical store is EuroOptical on Via San Francesco A Ripa, 154 in Trastevere not too far from the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. Small shop on the corner - with very nice sales staff.
Dec 8th, 2008, 08:37 AM
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risab and L
I loved the trip report. How awesome mother and daughter got the chance to go to Rome together and have such a beautiful time. I am hoping to do the same thing with my GB.
Thank you so much for all the details.
I loved the trip report. How awesome mother and daughter got the chance to go to Rome together and have such a beautiful time. I am hoping to do the same thing with my GB.
Thank you so much for all the details.
Dec 8th, 2008, 09:05 AM
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Was your guide at the St Peter's excavations a rather short, slightly dumpy, woman by any chance? Did she tell you the Pope's her boss?
I ask because we'd been shown round by a dramatising guide with slightly difficult English two days earlier. And if it was her, there's one fact she kept quiet about.
She said no bones had been found at the tomb itself. Back at the flat that night, though, I read "Inside the Vatican" by Thomas Reese. He claims that bones had been found at the tomb during the original excavation, but had been filed away by an inept supervising cardinal who didn't tell the archaeologists what he'd done - and then forgot. Twenty years later, a new and competent superintendent archaeologist, Margherita Guarducci, happened to hear about this from the workman who'd been with the cardinal at the time. Files opened, envelope found with bones in, which on examination in 1968 turn out to be a sturdy man in late middle age buried there, and venerated, in first century AD.
The Vatican preferred keeping quiet about the foulup - thus risking the faithful not believing St Peter had been there - to admitting what a pillock the cardinal had been. Even today our dramatic and dumpy friend doesn't mention it
And indeed, when I last visited the excavations in 1965, my memory is I was told there simply weren't any bones.
Trouble is, of course, it's tough to claim infallibilty if it gets out that your blokes can't remember where they've put your most distinguished predecessor's bones. What do you think St Peter must have said to the poor cardinal at the Pearly Gates?
I ask because we'd been shown round by a dramatising guide with slightly difficult English two days earlier. And if it was her, there's one fact she kept quiet about.
She said no bones had been found at the tomb itself. Back at the flat that night, though, I read "Inside the Vatican" by Thomas Reese. He claims that bones had been found at the tomb during the original excavation, but had been filed away by an inept supervising cardinal who didn't tell the archaeologists what he'd done - and then forgot. Twenty years later, a new and competent superintendent archaeologist, Margherita Guarducci, happened to hear about this from the workman who'd been with the cardinal at the time. Files opened, envelope found with bones in, which on examination in 1968 turn out to be a sturdy man in late middle age buried there, and venerated, in first century AD.
The Vatican preferred keeping quiet about the foulup - thus risking the faithful not believing St Peter had been there - to admitting what a pillock the cardinal had been. Even today our dramatic and dumpy friend doesn't mention it
And indeed, when I last visited the excavations in 1965, my memory is I was told there simply weren't any bones.
Trouble is, of course, it's tough to claim infallibilty if it gets out that your blokes can't remember where they've put your most distinguished predecessor's bones. What do you think St Peter must have said to the poor cardinal at the Pearly Gates?
Dec 8th, 2008, 04:43 PM
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She was short...but not sure if I'd refer to her as dumpy...she was however, very dramatic. At the end she gave a little speil about religion and being a "believer or non-believer" but encourage all to respect those who believe...
my daughter and I looked at each other at this point and thought she was going to go around the group and have us tell our religion...happy to say she did not.
I thought the tour was interesting from an archeological perspective and enjoyed hearing the history of the building of the Vatican. I found the tombs very interesting, especially when she spoke about the holes made near the tombs with pipes so that wine could be poured for the deceased. That sounded very good to me.
my daughter and I looked at each other at this point and thought she was going to go around the group and have us tell our religion...happy to say she did not.
I thought the tour was interesting from an archeological perspective and enjoyed hearing the history of the building of the Vatican. I found the tombs very interesting, especially when she spoke about the holes made near the tombs with pipes so that wine could be poured for the deceased. That sounded very good to me.
Mar 11th, 2009, 06:24 PM
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Hello Everyone! Well...I had vouchers from an August trip to Florida where all three of us volunteered for a later flight so my husband and I have decided to use them for a trip to Italy next month! I got very cheap flights with transfer in Paris and two transfers on the way home but we are going to Venice for a few days then on to Rome, renting an apartment. "L" will be spending two weeks with her boyfriends family in Florida so she won't be neglected. Hubby and I will enjoy our first trip abroad without child in tow- celebrating our 25 years together. This was a last minute plan so we are really excited! I'll be reporting!
Mar 12th, 2009, 04:46 PM
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risab,
I didn't see this report the first time and am glad you topped it. My mother and I are going in May (on the same DL flight you took!) and staying at an apartment in Trastevere. Do you have the address of the glass jewelry place on Vicolo di Cinque?
I didn't see this report the first time and am glad you topped it. My mother and I are going in May (on the same DL flight you took!) and staying at an apartment in Trastevere. Do you have the address of the glass jewelry place on Vicolo di Cinque?
Mar 12th, 2009, 08:55 PM
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risab, I'm so happy for you.. and so jealous! I'm planning my own return trip to Rome and so enjoyed your trip report. (I've made several notes!) I, too, have been with my adult daughter and we had an incredible time.
I'm sorry you did not get a good tour guide for the Scavi. We had a very good one (though quite soft-spoken) and I'm not ashamed to say I was in tears by the end of our tour. Probably the most memorable moment of my trip, other than walking out of the train station in Rome and having difficulty breathing- it was so.... Roman!hahah
Congrats on your anniversay. Buon viaggio!
Paula
I'm sorry you did not get a good tour guide for the Scavi. We had a very good one (though quite soft-spoken) and I'm not ashamed to say I was in tears by the end of our tour. Probably the most memorable moment of my trip, other than walking out of the train station in Rome and having difficulty breathing- it was so.... Roman!
hahahCongrats on your anniversay. Buon viaggio!
Paula
Mar 13th, 2009, 02:00 AM
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The name of the store on Vicolo del Cinque is Anna Restico Designs and she has a website so you can google it for the address. But it is a very small store between Via del Moro and Via della Scala - if you are walking towards Via della Scala it is on the right hand side closer to Via della Scala. Just keep eyeing everystore and you will find it.
Mar 13th, 2009, 07:43 PM
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Hi Risab, nice to hear from you again. If you remember, I have booked the Monte di Pieta apt for our trip, just had a couple more questions. Was the area rowdy at night? I have been hearing some negative things about Campo Fiori at night & since we will have our teenage daughter with us (who will surely be going out with her brother & his friends), I just want to make sure it is safe. What was your experience?
Also, what kind of bed did the single bedroom have? We now have another family traveling with us so trying to decide whether to stick with the apt for us & have them find alternate accommodation or find a larger apt for 8 which is not easy. Thanks.
Also, what kind of bed did the single bedroom have? We now have another family traveling with us so trying to decide whether to stick with the apt for us & have them find alternate accommodation or find a larger apt for 8 which is not easy. Thanks.
