We'll be in provence for 2 weeks in May/June based near Ventoux.

We are wine lovers but definately not aficionados. In Saint Emillion we went to a couple small wineries and then bought most of our wine in the small caves in the town.

I'd like to explore the Chateauneuf de Pape and larger Rhone areas a little more but wouldn't want to dedicate more than 1 day to this.

Any suggestions for a great day trip that might involve visiting wineries and seeing some villages?

Also, we have researched Avignon and can't seem to justify (based on our interests) spending a day there. Could this "wine tour" incorporate a quick visit? Is it worth it? (our interests in provence are: small villages, food, wine, nature). That said, we also loved Aix.

Jen

Just wondering if there are any Avignon lovers out there? Perhaps it's the hidden Avignon that makes a trip there worthwhile?

I would suggest simply driving through the Châteauneuf area - wineries are well signposted and most will show their opening hours (unless they say "sur rendez-vous"...which means you must have an appointment. I had a listing of good ones that offered tasting, but lost it when my old computer fried.)

Drive from Châteauneuf to Avignon via Villeneuve lez Avignon... it's a pretty drive and Villeneuve is worth a visit. I agree that a couple of hours is all you need to see Avignon proper. I haven't discovered any "hidden" Avignon in the fifteen years I've lived down here.

Further south (about 40 minutes)there are several vineyards near St. Rémy and Les Baux that offer tastings (Mas Ste. Berthe and Mas de la Dame to name two).

Patricia

jen,

If you love wine and follow PB's advice about Villeneuve, I suggest you stop at the tiny town of Tavel. This is the town for rose! We were there in November and did three or four tastings..some really delicious and bought several bottles. The town itself is very small and can be seen in no time, but the surrounding area is filled with vineyards and is quite a pretty ride.

PBProvence, I'm delighted to read that you haven't discovered a "hidden" Avignon. We've never felt the need to linger there and certainly have no plans to revisit the gloomy Palais des Papes. In fact our happiest times have been sitting at a café in Place de l'Horloge watching the children ride the carousel.

Jen,
I have to agree about Avignon. Having grown up singing "Sur le pont, d'Avignon..." it was awfully depressing to see the bridge going half-way across the river, and the Palais des Papes IS rather gloomy!

If you would consider an overnight in the Rhone Valley instead, might I suggest the hotel La Treille Muscate (http://www.latreillemuscate.com/) in the tiny village of Cliousclat. It is absolutely charming and has an excellent restaurant. If you like pottery, there are several nice galleries in town (but you must seek out the ones that aren't right on the main drag). Just 3 km away is the slightly larger, gorgeous village of Mirmande with a nice little restaurant called Chez Margot.

This is from my 20 page Cote d'Azur & Provence itinerary. if you want the entire document, e-mail me at [email protected]

The Dentelles, Vaison with Roman Ruins, and serious wine country.

I think this area is almost as pretty as the Luberon, and not as touristy. The Dentelles mountains provide a great backdrop, and there are several very nice perched villages. This is the famous Rhone wine growing region and you can visit a winery or just sip wine from tasting rooms in some of the villages.

Take the D938 to Malaucene. You will see a chateau up on the mountain ledge. Continue on toward Vaison la Romaine. We’ve vacationed 4 weeks in this area recently. When you pass the D54, there is a good “seconds” cookware/pottery outlet (outdoors). Also near there is the cute town of Crestet, which is a nice village to explore if you have the time & don’t mind climbing. This is a pretty drive. When approaching Vaison from Crestet on the D938, do not take the branch into “centre ville” – instead take the road to “ville medieval”. It will pass a gravel pit and then you will get a fantastic view of the medieval village and castle perched on the side & on top of a cliff. The “newer” Vaison is across the river to your right. Just before the old bridge that goes across the river, park the car and get out the camera – lots of photo opportunities. Explore Vaison** - the vieux/medieval section of town uphill to your left, and the newer part with the Roman ruins across the bridge to your right. The town has lots of shops, and if you have never seen Roman ruins, then do so. I think the “theatre” has been over-restored. The Roman toilets are interesting. See if you can latch onto an English tour of the ruins.

Now we’re off to wine country. See “Dentelles” in the Michelin green guide. Follow the route in the guide from Vaison to Seguret* (explore), Sablet, and then Gigondas. These are famous wine villages. This is a beautiful drive. There is a shop in Gigondas that will let you sample & buy many of the local wines. It’s in the square in the center of town, on the left side of the road. The store's called “Caveau du Gigondas” and you can walk in & see the selections you can taste. After Gigondas, head to Vacqueyras then Beaumes des Venise. You can taste the sweet Muscat wine in many shops in this town. There is a co-op called “vigurons de Beaumes de Venise” where you can taste & buy wine – it’s just west of town a little. The co-op is on the D7 at the round-about (look for the two big hands in the center of the round-about).

If you want an excellent tour of one of the famous Chateauneuf du Pape wineries, book an English tour at Beaucastel – perhaps the most famous winery. Phone 04 90 70 70 60. As I remember, the tour is about 1˝ hours and it’s quite informative. Book a couple of days ahead.

Getting to Beaucastel is a little difficult. I’ve wandered back & forth a few times – even after getting there OK once. Beaucastel is just south & a little east of Orange. I think I got there by going to Jonquieres then traveling on the road that is a bridge over the A7 just to the west & near the freeway exit. Follow the signs to Beaucastel.

After Beaucastel, head south on the D68 to Chateauneuf du Pape. If you didn’t visit Beaucastel, you can sample wine at any of the dozens of tasting rooms in town. It’s a little more intimidating than tasting in the Napa Valley, however. You sit down at a table and it’s more of a one-on-one event.

Stu Dudley