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Returning to Italy - October 2011

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Returning to Italy - October 2011

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Old Dec 30th, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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Returning to Italy - October 2011

Warning: Hope this isn’t too long! And yes, there are questions below!

Intro: I have been ‘lurking’ on this forum since the summer, and planning my return to Italy after a 30 yr absence (yikes!) … I had worked in Rome for 6 months way back then and had the opportunity to travel for work all around the boot. While I may have seen most of the major sites/museums in the big 5 (Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan and Naples), it’s all a vague memory. I’ve started locking down the specifics for a solo trip this October 2011. Probably bought the open jaw flight tickets too early, but wanted the details fixed ($1100 – USAIR – arrive in Rome; depart Florence). Also made my hotel reservations … all based on the feedback read in this forum, along with TA and ST. Location was a prime consideration for the hotel selection, also wanted an aperitif site (roof top terrace or gardens) for pre-dinner R&R! Rome – 4 nights (Albergo del Senato); overnight train to Venice (major splurge – VSOE); Venice – 4 nights (Accademia Villa Maravege); Siena – 4 nights (Palazzo Ravizza); and Florence – 2 nights (Hotel degli Orafi). Theme of trip – combination of ancient ruins, Caravaggio paintings/Bernini sculptures, drink in each Harry’s Bar I pass, delish meals and wine tastings (tentatively Rome – Vino Roma; Siena – Tuscan Wine School; Venice – Lessons of the Vine).

Qs: Is there a timeframe for booking reservations for tours (ie Rome - Scavi tour, Vatican mus, Borghese for time reservation; Venice - Secret Itineraries at the Doges Palace; Florence – Accademia)? Or should I just check web sites monthly?

Has anyone taken the guided tour of the Parco della Caffarella offered only on Sunday mornings? Is this arranged at the site?

On Palatine Hill, I definitely want to see the inside of the House of Augustus and the separate House of Livia. Do I trust the tour companies that they visit the inside of the sites, and not just walk by? (Looking at Context and Through Eternity) Or plan to visit on my own – looks like interiors open on Wed, Thursday (?) or Sat mornings? (Various sites give a variety of days when open.)

While in Venice, in addition to exploring the city and visiting the sites, I’d like to take a day to train to Vicenza. I definitely would like to see the interior of the Villa Rotonda (open Wed mornings 10-12), then visit the Villa Valmarana before heading to the city center to see the Palladio buildings and other sites. To insure arriving when the VillaR is open, are there taxis at the Vicenza train station? Or is the VillaR a walkable distance?

I’m renting a car through Kemwel in Florence (pick up - Borgo Ognissanti; drop off - Via del Gelsomino) and am terrified of the ZTL areas! Have bought a GPS (Garmin), and will load their Italy maps. Since I love maps, also have the Michelin #563 for Central Italy, and Rough Guide city maps. Q: In driving to Siena – is it safe to stop first at San Gim (noonish, with luggage in the trunk)? Or should I first go to the hotel to drop off the luggage (likely too early to check in)?

For subsequent days, I hope to combine some Siena city visits, and driving to hill towns. Ideally hope to visit Montalcino, San Antimo, Montepulciano. Q: Is Cortona too far away? Seems a short distance on the map, but I want to take my time in each town to relax and enjoy a leisurely lunch with wine (and espresso, as I’m the designated driver!)

Thanks for any/all comments and recommendations! I’m sure to be returning for more specific info on sites as I try to narrow down my priorities for each location.
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Old Dec 30th, 2010 | 11:25 AM
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Villa Rotunda is walkable from the train station, depending on how much you like to walk. (Years ago we walked there with no problem.) The distance is just more than 2 km, about 30 minutes on foot. If i were concerned about the brief opening times, I'd take a taxi and walk back into town for the rest of my visit to Vicenza. As you approach Vicenza from Venice by train, you can actually see the Villa Rotunda in the distance on the left.
ellenem is offline  
Old Dec 30th, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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I am impressed---you have been doing your homework.
Why not drop your car at the Florence airport and avoid any ZTL exposure?
Yes, I do think a stop at San Gim.is doable---especially in the lot just outside the main gate.
Cortona is a good drive, but do try to include a day south via Asicano and the Crete Sensei to the Abbey at Oliveto Maggiore and on to Pienza. Be at the Abbey by 11:00 or earlier.
Love your hotel choices---good job!
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Old Dec 30th, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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I know Harry's Bar is iconic, but it is a staggeringly expensive place that only tourists visit. There are plenty of other places that are much more "Italian".

Otherwise, your trip sounds well-thought-out.
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Old Dec 30th, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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Thanks for such quick responses!

Ellen – Glad to hear it’s walkable to VillaR. Due to an episode last year with black ice (torn meniscus, knee surgery), I’ll try the taxi out, then walk back to town. And sit on the left side of the train heading to Vicenza. Good tip! Bob – I probably picked up some of my hotel reco’s from you – so thanks! I’m returning the car to Florence at Via del Gelsomino since I was tentatively planning on taking R222 with a stop in Greve in Chianti and approaching Florence from the south. And I’ll add a morning out via the Crete Sensei to the Abbey and further to Pienza! Charnees – yes, I figured Harry’s was a true tourist destination, and costly. But in my time in Rome years ago, I remember passing the bar on the Veneto and seeing Lamborghini’s and Maserati’s parallel parked in front! I was too young/intimidated to go in for a drink. Now that I’m probably too old/foolish, seems a late afternoon cocktail visit would be fun! (possibilities considered: Rome – a Golden Cadillac with Galliano; Venice – a Bellini; and Florence – a Negroni?) Of course, all depends on if/when I’m in the area of each, and my timing.

Looking forward to any additional comments/suggestions!
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Old Jan 2nd, 2011 | 04:50 AM
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I wouldn't be afraid of leaving luggage in the car in S. Gimignano - Tuscany is a very safe region.

And I've done the Caffarella tour - highly recommended, and compliments for your homework on my behalf, too. No reservations were necessary, but since this was years ago, I'd check the web whether anything may have changed. As far as this and similar questions (Palatine opening hours e.g.), I always recommend calling ahead - in Italy, don't send emails, always ask your questions by phone. There's no better way to get up-to-date informations.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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Franco – Thanks for your information! Glad to be reassured that luggage in the car trunk is safe while visiting San Gim.

I checked the 060608.it web site and will call the information number once I’m in Rome to see if the tours are still offered on the Sunday morning I’ll be in town. I gather the antiquity sites are only accessible by the guided tour, right? Is it difficult to get to the Via Appia park center since there is no traffic on Sundays? Just curious.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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The only modification I'd personally make to your itinerary is to spend 2 days in Siena and 4 days in Florence. Nice as Siena is, there's lots more to see in Florence.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2011 | 03:08 AM
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Janet, I have no personal experience with 060608 so far, but even though I've heard they are quite organized, I'd be prepared they might not have a clue as far as the Caffarella tours, which are organized by private volunteers (www.caffarella.it). Were it me, I'd contact that private association directly, and in advance, i.e. from home... some phone numbers I found on the web: 06.7803513, 06.786169, 06.789279, 333.7137257. The main question, though, is not whether you need a reservation (it's obvious from their website that you still don't need one), but whether there is a guided tour on that specific Sunday (usually there is, but I'm not sure if EVERY Sunday), where the meeting point is (usually on Largo Tacchi Venturi, but not always), and which guided tour is being held on "your" Sunday (not every tour goes to the archeological sites, since there are also ecological tours (the plants of the park and so on). On the other hand, it seems that the tours are now not only on Sundays, but also on Saturdays, and sometimes on Wednesdays, so there are considerably more tours than a few years ago.
Yes, the archeological sites, which are private properties, are only accessible by tour, that's why those tours are so interesting (both S. Urbano and the Tomb of Annia Regilla are definitely top sights).
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Old Jan 3rd, 2011 | 04:33 AM
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Franco – Thanks for clarifying, and providing the specific telephone contact numbers for the park association that organizes tours by private volunteers. As the usual tour meeting site is not far from a subway stop, I see no problem in transportation. I’ll definitely call before leaving for Rome to see if the archeological tour is offered on October 2nd!

Bachslunch – I agree that it seems timeframes for Florence and Siena should be reversed, but I have been to Florence before, never to Siena. Also, I plan on having a rental car (hotel in Siena has parking) to explore the hill towns, so Siena will be my base. While I will have a very short 1½ day visit to Florence, I’ll be seeing as much as possible knowing that my next trip to Italy (hopefully 2012) will also include Florence!
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Old Mar 19th, 2011 | 11:20 AM
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I will also be in Italy in October! Hope you have a great trip.

Scavi tour - book NOW

Vatican - if you are just going to book entrance reservations, you can do that a month in advance. I plan on also booking my Borghese reservation about a month in advance as well. Keep in mind the official Vatican tours are only available in the morning. I plan on climbing St. Peter's in the morning when it's empty, Scavi tour, lunch, and the Vatican Museum in the late afternoon with a podcast guide.

Secret Itineraries at Doge's - I already booked this on the official website along with my San Marco museum pass http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it/

I believe Accademia/Uffizi are best booked a month or two in advance if you want a specific slot, but you can probably get a reservation by calling when you arrive at your hotel, or have them book it for you. You won't need a reservation for any other attractions in Florence.
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Old Mar 19th, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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While in Vicenza, do not miss the Teatro Olimpico. It is such a perfect example of Palladio's work and the stage is one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. It is impossible for me to describe how special this is. If you have any interest at all in Palladio (and obviously, you do), this alone is worth making a trip to Vicenza.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2011 | 06:51 AM
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Just returned from a trip to France - and checked back with the forum ...

Anothertravelinsong - I just sent off an email request for the Scavi tour, and hope to hear back soon which date/time they have an opening. Next up - the Doge's tour. For both I thought I should wait until late spring to book, so thanks for info to get this process started!

Sassafrass - yes, the Teatro Olimpico is definitely on my short list for Vicenza. On a side note, I'll be taking the train from Venice for the day's outing. Do you think I have time when returning to Venice for a stop in Padua to see the Scrovegni Chapel? Don't want to over schedule, but wondered if it was possible. Thanks.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2011 | 07:58 AM
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Janet, I can't comment on the possible timing of stopping in Padua, but if it is at all feasible I would HIGHLY recommend seeing the Scrovegni Chapel. It was one of the highlights of our trip last year - truly amazing. If you can fit it in and would like a guide to give you a tour of the chapel, let me know and I will get the contact information of the guide we had last year.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2011 | 08:05 AM
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Janet,

It would really be pushing it to include the Scrovegni Chapel, and IMHO, not worth it. That is a very personal bias though, because, given a choice, I would pick Teatro Olimpico over Scrovegni. I appreciate the artistic and historic significance of the Scrovegni, but the perfectly proportioned, simple interior contrasted with the stage of Teatro Opimpico just "wowed" me. I also like Vicenza and would make the most of the day there, probably staying for dinner, and getting back to Venice late. If you decide to skip Padua, but are not staying after dark in Vicenza, and you have time (lots of ifs, I know), an hour or so before you are ready to leave, take a taxi up to Monte Berico, visit the Basilica and walk back down to the train station to catch the train back to Venice.

Do you have the hours, etc. for the Rotonda? When I was there last fall, inside hours were only one day a week, Wed, 10-12 & 3-6, so you really have to plan for that. Unfortunately, I did not have current times and missed out - don't want that to happen to you. The Basilica Palladiana was open only during special exhibitions. The Teatro Olimpico was closed on Mondays, but open 9-5 Tue-Sun. I have phone numbers and web sites if you need them.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2011 | 08:08 AM
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Ekc - Yes, I would appreciate the guide contact information. I'm going to work with the train schedule and try my best to fit it in on the Vicenza day trip, or when heading for Florence via train a few days later. Thanks!
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Old Mar 22nd, 2011 | 08:13 AM
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Oops, I see you do have the hours. Yes, there are taxis at the train station. It is so interesting to see the different reactions of people to the things they see. Loved that the Scrovegni was a highlight for ekc, and more of a "good, I've finally seen it" for me. Maybe you will get to see both and we'll get a third view.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2011 | 08:30 AM
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Sassafrass - Just saw your response! My plan for the day trip to Vicenza is on a Wednesday with the goal of being at the Rotonda (via taxi or walking from the train station) by the 10am opening. The following sites still show the interior open on Wed 10-12, so planning around this timeframe. If you find different, let me know!

http://www.italiantourism.com/villas.html
http://www.cisapalladio.org/veneto/s...ra=67&lingua=e

I know I will want to be back in Venice for dinner; and don't want to short change my visit to Vicenza, so will weigh my options before persuing Padua enroute back to Venice. Thanks for the info on Monte Berico - I'll have to research this, and figure if I can handle the walk, or rely on a taxi once on site. It's always good to get personal recommendations - thanks!
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