gradyghost

I have never carefully chronicled my trips on this board except to call attention to some things that I considered to be highlights for me. I recently completed a trip of 5 major cities in northern Germany and, with a few exceptions, would not consider my wanderings as worthy of your attention. I am reminded, however, by Ingo and DAX and other significant contributors like HSV and J62, of the importance of getting the word out regarding the culinary adventures available in Germany. So here goes, with less detail than you are used to, but with the assurance that if you visit these establishments, you'll have fun and a great meal.

KOLN

(1) em Krütsche
Am Frankenturm
on the Rhein

Really nice atmosphere and staff; try the wiener schnitzel

(2) Restaurant Steinmetz
Gottesweg
12 minute cab ride from centre

We were greeted by Mrs. Pradel, wife of the owner, Martin, with whom I had communicated by fax before leaving the U.S.

We were delighted to participate in the 4-5 course "surprise" menu with accompanying wines. Outstanding.

(3) Holtmanns
Am Bollwerk on the Rhein

We had lunch outside in a nicely landscaped patio that shielded the foot traffic without impairing a view of the river. I enjoyed the lobster ragout with noodles and a nice Riesling by August Kessler

BREMEN

(4) The Villa Restaurant
Goetheplatz 4

With a single exception noted later, this was the most memorable meal we had on the trip. We arrived without a reservation because our preferred choice on a Saturday night was booked. Upon our arrival, the courtyard was packed with cocktail party revelers, but I bulled my way into the restaurant and was met by the delightful co-owner who offered us the last available table. It turned out that the party-goers had a private dining room for a special occasion. We had a 6-course menu of the owner's selection, all small portions and just fabulous. This restaurant warrants a return if that ever becomes possible.

(5) The Park Hotel

This was our home in Bremen and a fantastic place. We had drinks on the veranda and then moved inside to a table overlooking the lake for a wonderful (and mightily expensive) dinner.

HAMBURG

(6) Die fischkueche
Kajen 12

The restaurant was an easy walk from our hotel (The Madison). We liked it so much that we returned for a second visit. The Dover sole is to die for, and the staff is especially friendly.

(7) Cafe Paris
near the Rathaus

This restaurant was suggested by HSV and prompted us to have lunch there twice. A wonderful atmosphere reminiscent of the left bank. Try the seafood soup and be sure to check on the plat du jour.

BERLIN

(8) Bocco di Bacca
Friedrichstr. 167

We stayed in Mitte so this was a natural. Fabulous. The spaghetti vongol was especially delightful. Nice wine list.

(9) Lütter and Wegner
Charlottenstr. 56

Great for Sunday brunch, particularly the goulash and noodles

(10) Via Condotti
near the Hotel Bristol off the K'Damm

This restaurant was mentioned favorably on this board and on the face looked promising. The fare is Italian and the specialty is a flambeed wine sauce over pasta. The table-side preparation was the high point because the dish was disappointing. Even more disappointing was the owner's reaction when the bill was presented. He told me that the amount did not include "service", despite the 19% clearly shown on the invoice. When I pointed this out, he actually began wailing about raising children, etc.. A thoroughly depressing end to a nice day in Berlin.

(10) Borchardt
Franzosischstr. 47

This is the place where Berlin celebrities are often seen. Our experience was that the food was mediocre and we were rushed.

DRESDEN

(11) Italian Village
Theaterplatz 2

This is a three part restaurant overlooking the Elbe. The fancy one is Italian, one is a cafe, and the section where we had lunch outside was traditional German fare. A delightful experience both the stomach and the eyes. One sour note. Within plain view is a restaurant located right on the river bank called "Piccolo". It looked very inviting and when I inquired at our hotel upon our return, the Concierge said: "I will reserve a table for you anywhere in Dresden except there. If I did, you would despise me upon your return". I have never heard anything so emphatic and obviously forgot about "Piccolo".

(12) Schmidt's
Moritzburger Weg 67

Highly acclaimed before I left the U.S. Austrian fare, reasonably priced. A fairly long cab ride from Centre.

(13) Bean & Beluga
Bautzener Landstr. 32

This is the restaurant Ingo has spoken of and now has reported upon on in another recent thread. We requested our reservation so far in advance that we were given the semi-private dining room on the second floor. This restaurant will be starred soon because it is exquisite. The truffle ravioli was washed down nicely with a red blend from Markus Schneider Black Print.

(14) La Casina Rosa

This Italian restaurant is located in the "new town" part of Dresden. We were warned by hotel staff that we might see some unruly young people in the neighborhood on a Friday night. We did see them during our cab ride home, but that didn't spoil a simply wonderful experience at a small, family-run, terrific restaurant. The owner greeted me with my fax of months before and assured us of a great meal. We began with the antipasto and went from there.

I hope that the foregoing may be helpful to future travellers to a nice part of the world. Gradyghost

ira

Thanks for sharing, gg

Surie

Hi Gradyghost-- thank you for sharing these suggestions.

I am especially interested because I just got back from a week in Berlin. My daughter is living there so I know I'll be going back fairly soon. I went this time with an old friend who is a fabulous cook and really loves good food. She had wanted to try Bocca di Bacco but I cheaped out, I'm afraid, and now I'm sorry! I'm glad we didn't go to Borchardt-- thanks for your opinion!

We had a great lunch at Lutter & Wegner, and loved the old-fashioned atmosphere. We had the set menu which was very reasonably priced and delicious.

I have to say that every meal we had was wonderful. Most of the places were small and just normal great food. I was thinking of writing my list too. You have inspired me-- thanks!

Ingo

Hi gradyghost,

thank you for sharing. It's very nice and much appreciated that you took the time to review your restaurant experiences. I am particularly interested in the Dresden part, of course.

I am very glad "La Casina Rosa" was such a good experience because my latest one in summer wasn't that good. Reason was probably that most of the regular staff and the owner were on vacation back home in Italy.

"Schmidt's" wasn't the big hit, eh? To be honest, it is not worth an expensive TAXI ride from the city centre. Then you probably better check out their sister restaurant "Alte Meister".

If I am not totally wrong "Bean & Beluga" just got their first Michelin star. I am envious that you got the semi-private dining room.

Never heard of "Piccolo". Thanks for the warning.

If you have a minute - I am interested in the Park Hotel in Bremen. I considered to stay there this year, but the (business) trip was cancelled. Did you like the HOTEL?

Cheers, Ingo

gradyghost

For Ingo and others interested in the Park Hotel in Bremen:

The hotel sits by itself in a wonderfully wooded tract which is, I believe, a municipal park. Nonetheless, it is possible to walk 10-15 minutes to the city. The focal point of the park is a lake of several acres with the front of the hotel facing one end. One of the pleasures is a walk around the lake in the early morning. I met there one morning a grizzled old ex merchant seaman who had an electrically powered, remote controlled, model ship, with the port of Bremerhaven painted on its stern. I helped him launch the ship in the lake and he proudly sailed it about for a hour or two.
On the day of our arrival, the staff was setting up for a wedding at lakeside, where the bride approached the alter on a red carpet and the couple faced the lake during the ceremony. We had a grand view of the proceedings from our lakeside room -- only the champagne was missing, but the wedding party was well supplied.
The hotel has at least two restaurants, one is very pricy, but good; it overlooks the lake. The accomodations and staff are what you would expect of a 5* hotel. For example, the hotel picked us up at the train station and returned us there for our departure. The public rooms are exquisite.
Before this trip, I last stayed at the hotel in the early 70's and am happy to say that it has been well-maintained. There is a spa on the premises but you must reserve in advance.

Ingo

Thank you a lot. That sounds promising. If I get the chance to go to Bremen next year I'll stay there.

I.

traveller1959

I have stayed at the Park Hotel in Bremen. From the outside it looks nicer than from the inside. It is pretty worn - 1960ies style.

IMHO, the best days of this hotel have been in the past.

Frankly said, in Berlin, I would choose other restaurants. For lunch, nothing can beat Fischers Fritz which is a stonethrow from Lutter&Wegner. Same price level and Michelin-star-awarded cuisine, while Lutter&Wegner has deteriorated into a tourist trap (and features Austrian cuisine - very strange to travel to Berlin to eat Austrian cuisine there).

Fischküche is quite good - very fresh fish, prepared in simple style. They have in branch in Hamburg and in Berlin, too. A good place if you want to eat oysters (however, there are other places too - I would go to Diekmann, Meinekestraße and Weinhaus Huth at Potsdamer Platz). Fischküche is the casual-style subsidiary of the more upscale Fischereihafenrestaurant of Rüdiger Kowalke.

Borchardt is another tourist trap. Former Chancellor Schröder used to dine there - in 1998. Now the tourists eat there.

gradyghost

Thanks Traveller:

I wish I had had your recommendations before my journey. Perhaps I could have done a better job in chosing my restaurants.

As it happened, I relied to a large extent on those trusted folks who have in good faith offered their recommendations, and even trusted my own judgment on occasions like returning to the Park Hotel. As I now reflect, I doubt that I would have altered my selections at all had I had your hindsight remarks. Grayghost

DAX

Thanks for posting your restaurant exeperiences gradyghost! It helps me choose the restaurants for my next trip, particularly in Dresden where we haven't hit the right restaurants. How was your hotel experience in Dresden?

I used to come to Borchardt for their fine food with subtle creative twists and their attentive proper service explaining each dish, but last April I too was disappointed by the boring dishes we had and, as you both mentioned, their inattentive rushed service. I thought maybe they forgot to explain their creative twist. I was going to give it another chance, but your thread makes me think I should move on. It's such an institution in Berlin that I saw it in a number of German movies/TV series.

Lutter & Wegner branches have been more consistent with their standard bistro service but I think I've eaten there too often that the novelty has faded for me. I still go to their cozy winebars, particularly the one on Charlottenstr. I like their staff friendliness and even their customers in business suits tend to be chatty and jovial. The wine sommelier gave me very good tips on where to hunt for certain wines.

I think Traveller went to the Park Hotel in Bremen before the new wing renovation was completed 3 years ago. So your experience confirms how much better the hotel is now, assuming you stayed in the new wing. I was also discouraged from staying there prior to the renovation. I was attracted to the peaceful Park hotel because it's a lot closer to the train station (no need for a taxi) compared to the Hilton which is located in the buzzing old town lanes far away from the station. 5 star hotel prices in Bremen are so low which makes Bremen an attractive stop for anyone travelling through northern Germany.

gradyghost

Hello DAX:

Our hotel in Dresden was the Taschenbergpalais Kempinski. I must say that it was our best hotel experience in Germany to date. It appears that high rates seen elsewhere in some German cities have not reached Dresden, so we reserved a junior suite for our 5-day stay. Our suite was one of two in the front that have large, walk-out balconies. You step out to overlook part of the Zwinger Palace to the left and the Theatreplatz with the Semper opera house occupying the rest of the view. It was fantastic.

I was especially taken with the concierge desk. They were all upbeat and particularly helpful in organizing tours and offering comments on the restaurant choices that I had made before leaving the U.S. based on advice from this board, mainly by Ingo and you. For example, I was pleased and surprised to hear them say that La Casina Rosa is the best Italian restaurant in Dresden.

The breakfast fare, breakfast room, and staff were one of those "to look forward to" daily experiences. We took two dinners in the Palais Bistro and enjoyed both. We did not try the fancy restaurant.

In addition to the above, the wonderful part of the Taschenberg experience is the location --right in the heart of the pedestrian only zone, making exploring the Alstadt a breeze. I can't wait to return. Gradyghost

traveller1959

Re Park Hotel, Bremen:

Yes, I stayed in the old wing. Location is excellent, indeed. With modernized rooms it will certainly come back to its old glory.

Re Taschenbergpalais, Dresden:

I share the opinion that it is an excellent hotel and certainly the very best in Dresden (also with the best location). Especially on weekends and if there is NO conference, you can get unbelievable rates. Just try their website.

Ingo

I am very glad to hear the raves about the Taschenbergpalais. I love it too - had coffee and cake (hmmmm...) in their hall with view of the Baroque staircase yesterday.

And I'll definitely try the Park Hotel in Bremen next year.

BTilke

Hi gg, thanks for your recs, esp. the Bremen restaurant. DH is spending a few nights in Bremen next month on business (not staying at the Park Hotel, alas) and I have booked a table for him at the Villa Restaurant. Enticing menu, decent prices.
http://www.restaurant-villa.de/

gradyghost

Hello BT:

Too bad you can't stow away on that trip - the Villa is a wonderful experience. You might suggest to DH that if time permits he should stroll around the square at the Town Hall. That's where the statue of the Bremen Town Musicians (Donkey, dog, etc from Grimm's) is located. Leading off the square is a narrow alley called Böttcherstrasse which is very interesting for its sights and sounds. Bremen is a real favorite of mine. Gradyghost

BTilke

How close is it to the train station or the old town area? He's staying fairly close to the station as he'll be heading in to Hannover one day for CeBIT (an IT conference). He'll be tired, so he needs a restaurant that's fairly close by so he can have an early dinner then go to bed.

gradyghost

BT:

Beyond the Villa and the Park Hotel, I don't have any first-hand experience with restaurants except the one right in the Town Hall square where we had a nice lunch. Sorry but the name escapes. Here is one in the train station that gets good reviews, but appears pricey:

L'Orchidée
Bahnhofsplatz 11, in Hotel zur Post, Bremen, Germany 28195 • 421-305-9888


I wish I could be of more help. Good luck to DH; let us know how it turned out. Gradyghost

BTilke

L'Orchidee has moved from that location. Its new home is adjacent to the Bremen Ratskeller.
DH has been staying in Bremen over the past few days and loves it. He's eaten at the Ratskeller twice, said the food has been good (if not Michelin star cuisine) and of course the selection of German wines is terrific.
http://www.ratskeller-bremen.de/

He likes Bremen so much that he wants us to do a December driving trip to the region, spending a few nights in Bremen then heading down to Goslar and Harz towns. And then finishing up in Baden-Baden.
He's coming home tomorrow, so fingers crossed he won't be affected by any train strikes OR the big storm that is heading for the UK late tomorrow night and Monday (and will probably hit other parts of Europe as well).

gradyghost

Hello BT:

Thanks for the info on Bremen. Did DH dine at the Villa as planned? If so, what reaction? Your driving trip to the Bremen area and then the Harz towns sounds great. I have such a trip pretty much planned except mine goes east to west from Leipzig to Dusseldorf. The only question is whether age (with all the physical problems) or desire wins the race. Gradyghost

DAX

Just want to second the Ratskeller in Bremen as it is one of my favorites. Not every Ratskeller is recommendable, but the one in Bremen serves decent food with 300 kinds of german wines (never really counted but so they claimed). What makes it better for me were the friendly servers and the festive ambiente during mealtimes. During both times we've had lunches there, the crowd was mostly gregarious business crowd so it was very lively. When we went in the afternoon, they only had a shortened limited menu so it was rather empty, but the personable servers had even more time to chat with us.

BTilke

I believe that claim is now doubled--something close to 600. At any rate, the wine recs they gave my husband for two nights were both excellent.

The staff were indeed very helpful and for our December trip, they assured him that our cocker would be welcome and told him that they would help make sure we had one of those little private rooms (really just over-sized booths) so the dog won't have to worry about getting stepped on by customers or staff.

Anyway, he's currently on an ICE heading back to Frankfurt airport, enjoying a pils as the scenery zooms by.