also, any places to grab a inexpensive bite to eat.

No help here, just envy. I have recently read all of the Alexander Mc Call Smith books that take place in Edinburgh and I am so eager to go sometime! Please report back on your experience there.

I really liked the ambience at Deacon Brodies on the Royal Mile. This pub used to be the house of a real life character said to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson's Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. There is a restaurant upstairs with the whole story on the menu cover. This pub is named after William Brodie who was, by day, a respectable, wealthy town council member and Deacon of the CabinetMakers Guild. By night he was a drunk and a gambler. He began to commit robberies at the houses he worked in to pay for his gambling debts until caught and hanged in the same gallows he helped designed and built.

I love that story; have never forgotten any details since I read it back in 1998! Oh, well....

Yes, Deacon Brodie's is atmospheric, but that's because it's on the Royal Mile - it's set up that way But yes, the food is decent. Still, it's touristy fare.

Another touristy place that had good food was Maggie Dixson's on Victoria Street. If you go up a little further onto West Bow, there is a great Indian place called Kushi's. Across from that is a cheesemonger's named Iain Meillis - pick and choose some cheese for snacks

There is also a 'liquid deli' near there, mix and match your own homemade liqueurs.

Caroline_edinburgh has given lots of great information on places to eat there in the past, search her name for some great suggestions.

Café Royal - a very beautiful pub with good food (including fresh oysters). The pub connects to a restaurant. Location is good - just opposite the Balmoral.

Oh, and if you are out and about the Royal Mile early Sunday morning, looking for something to eat - ONE place seemed to be open. it's a little sandwich shop on the left side (as you are looking towards the castle) about a block north of St. Giles Cathedral. The road splits off to the left there, and the little shop is on the left... yummy bacon baps.

The Bow Bar is my favorite for beer, but I have not indulged in any of their pies they serve.

This might be a helpful link:

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.u...ide/index.html

I also really like The Cloisters.

I googled and I wikipedia'ed but still cannot discover what a "bacon bap" is. Anyone willing to enlighten me?

Sage,

The Mussel Inn. A kilo pot of mussels steamed in white wine, crisp chips, fresh baked bread and wine or Budvar. This could easily be my last earthly meal. I recreate it to the best of my ability every time I find fresh mussels at Central Market.

Enjoy Edinburgh!
Saige

Oh, love bacon baps! I've only had them home-made at my friend's in Edinburgh and in the airport there, but in both cases they were a soft, floury roll (think of a hamburger bun that you get from a bakery, not a supermarket) with melted butter and hot bacon. Salty and warm and SO good!

Thanks for the explanation, Mel.

An embarassment of riches. Some faves -

Certainly the Cafe Royal (although I was troubled in a recent visit that it was closed and perhaps under renovation? Any locals, please advise.)

In Rose Street, the Abbotsford is a grand pub with really excellent food. Probably would be my first goal.

In Stockbridge the St. Vincent (foot of Frederick St.) was my local for years and has weathered well.

Near the University, Sandy Bell's (aka Forrest Bar) on Forrest Road is still the place for good beer and reliably good music by any and all who drop in.

Bennet's Bar, next to the King's Theatre in Leven St., is arguably the most beautiful Victorian bar in Edinburgh, maybe Scotland (with the Cafe in close competition) and shouldn't be missed.

In Leith, the Central Bar has been cleaned up (oh my did it need it) and is now a grand Victorian boozer.

Finally, in Duddingston village (around the back from Holyrood Park) the Sheep Heid is a must-visit. 500 years old and still going strong - one of Edinburgh's great pubs and Duddingston is a surprise gem - one of several villages absorbed by Edinburgh over the centuries, like Cramond and the Dean Village.

How difficult is it to get into one of the pubs to grab a bite to eat? I will be in Edinburgh this Friday & Saturday and wondered how hard it will be to get in with it being festival time.

We really liked the Ensign Ewart pub (http://www.ensignewart.demon.co.uk/ensign/) on the Royal Mile. We had no problem getting in on August 6th for dinner before heading up to the castle for the tattoo. It was cozy with the electric fire and the food was good and very reasonable.

Is Whistle Binkie's (on Rose St., I think) still a cool little bar where locals play music?

Sandy Bells pub is still the most traditional pub in town. Has a great scottish folk history. Loads of guests who just break out into song. Amazing!

Another vote for the Cafe Royal (recently reopened after refurbishment), the Cloisters (where I met DH !) and the Bow Bar (although I didn't think it did food). Also in the centre the Oxford Bar (no food to speak of), the Guildford Arms and the Halfway House (my favourite - the smallest pub in town & with vg home-made food). The Cambridge Bar (on the same stretch of Young St as the Oxford Bar) is a bit posher & less my sort of place (in term time, think university rugger buggers) but does vg home-made burgers.

Be aware that many pubs, unless specifically aimed at tourists like Deacon Brodie's, don't do food after a certain time of day, which generally ranges from 4pm to 8pm.

Sage411, where are you staying, so we can recommend any others nearby ?

Gardyloo, have you been to the Central Bar ?? Interested to see you mention this as I live in Leith but didn't think it was, er, my kind of place. We tend to go to the Malt & Hops, the Port o'Leith or the Shore, although I'm still undecided about the latter since it changed hands.

PHayden, it depends on where exactly and what time. Do you know when you are likely to be where ? Is this to fit around shows ?

MelJ, to me Whistle Binkies is not so much a cool little bar where locals play music, but I daresay it may be that earlier in the day than I've ever been - I know it more as a late night dive of last resort ! DH ended his stag do there - nuff said ?

I wonder if there is still a "Logie's Bar".

None to recommend, but a proviso- this is not Spain or Italy with people starting to go out after 10 at night! Whe I was there in 2002, I found most pubs stopped serving food between 8-9 pm, so plan on checking in advance or getting out a bit earlier. I am so jealous, I'd love to go back. Also a big McCall Smith reader.

And many only serve lunch from 12-2, then dinner from 6-8. Heaven forbid you are hungry from 2-6 (like if you had a huge Full Scottish Breakfast somewhere or something).