Sept. 25- Oct. 3.
We drove from Lake Orta to Rapallo as the third leg in a 6-week European vacation.
We had a rented Fiat 500, a parking space near our apartment but we mostly used inexpensive and plentiful rail service during this period.
Towns visited included:
Rapallo
Santa Margherita Ligure
Positano
Camogli
San Rocco
Monterosso
Vernazza
Corniglia
Manarola
Riomaggiore
La Spezia
Portovenere
Lerici
Tellaro
Genoa
Chiavari
Sestri Levante
Varese Ligure
Brugnato
Montallegro


Day One:
On the road from Lake Orta to the Italian Riviera, our first stop was Vercelli, where we walked several miles, visited a couple of dramatic churches and had our morning fresh squeezed oj and a croissant. It was market day all over the old town, up and down many streets. Why go to a Walmart when they bring so much stuff to you? We saw a lot of the usual food and clothes, but this market had some of the cheapest prices we have seen. A new belt for Dad, the kind that you can buy at the Florence market for 10 euros, and a multi-zippered purse for Mom, each for three euros. This was not an upscale area, certainly no tourists, but there was a Grom, one of our favorite gelato chains, and yes we did have a small cup. As we drove
south of Vercelli, seemingly out in nowhere, we observed a massive Amazon distribution facility just off the hardly used divided highway. It wasn’t long before we had the one, perhaps the only, travel hiccup in our 6 weeks in Europe this fall. We saw signs that seemed to indicate taking a different autostrade, presumably because of the devastating bridge collapse in Bologna but somehow we missed the turn. We reached a point where traffic was simply diverted to a busy area of Bologna. No detour signs or any other visible assistance. Unfortunately, with our google offline maps (that were superb for most of our trip), we were re-routed three times back on the autostrade in the wrong direction and then brought back to the same point. The only consolation is that when we exited three times in each direction each time through the same toll booths, the computers almost seemed to recognize the problem and, when we entered our ticket into the machine, it simply said “arrivederci”, opened the gate and didn’t charge us. At one point, we got stuck on a one-way road into an airport parking lot; that cost us three euros for the 15 seconds we were there. Then we got trapped in traffic into the city center that was just sitting. Attempts to get the attention of police directing traffic were met with indications to just move. While sitting in traffic, nice motorists, none of whom spoke English, seemed to say we needed to go high up (and basically get above the broken bridge). So, we found some roads that got us uphill, and we saw a group of policemen and were able to pull off and talk to them. We attempted to communicate with hand gestures and some very limited broken Italian, and the firs one simply advised us to go back down the hill. When I persisted, he seemed to suggest he could put me in the back of his squad car. I got the attention of a younger cop, who knew a couple words of English and seemed a bit eager to be helpful. And then the two cops argued. Eventually, the younger one seemed dismissive of the other one, and pointed me straight ahead, in the direction we were now headed, and said in six kilometers, we would hit the correct autostrade. When we reached that point, we got an eerie look at the remnants of that collapsed bridge just below us. And, even though we got out, we instantly crossed off Genoa as one of the places we would ever visit.

Our base for the next 8 nights was Rapallo, and, although we were a few minutes late, for our meeting with our “Home Away” hosts, they were a lovely couple who spoke no English. They gave us snacks, water and a large bottle of pre-mixed Aperol Spritz. But our focus was their son’s small modern apartment with wide open view of the Rapallo town and seaside. The building itself was some sort of condo hotel that apparently operates only seasonally because the front desk was not manned, the parking area near empty and, although this 6 or 7 story building, the largest one on the waterfront, must have 150 apartments, we saw only a handful of people in 8 nights. And, that, while we were having weather that typically was 80 degrees and sunny. Every day. Our first evening in Rapallo consisted of a quick walk around the old town and confirmed this as a perfect selection as our long-term base. It is a busy small city with lots of shops and restaurants. As former innkeepers, the first things that catch our eyes were three adjacent, but separate, five-story Gothic buildings that once must have housed wealthy hotel guests. These abandoned buildings clearly sit in a prime area of this prosperous area, with its beach, small castle and harbor dotted with numerous luxury yachts. Our hosts recommended Nettuno, a large and full pizzeria across from the sea for dinner. We nabbed a table on the sidewalk at opening and got a big plate of green beans (to compensate for some of our other unhealthy eating), a half liter of red wine, two large and beautiful salads (the bright red tomato one was loaded with fresh picked basil) and added this to another great pizza, all for 26E including service charges.

Day Two:
There are various ways to get to Santa Margherita Ligure (SML) and Portofino, the two biggest attractions in this area of the Italian Riviera. You can drive, but the parking situation in Portofino is not good; you can take a taxi but that’s not cheap; there is a bus and a ferry, and those are the preferred options. We selected the only other option: we walked. The weather provided another perfect day. Our route was several miles each way. Much of the route is separated from the road and numerous fancy villas by a high-walled path. As the harbor at SML comes into sight, the early morning sun splashes across the old, but cared for, buildings in their reds and pinks and oranges and yellows, most with bright green shutters. The waterfront activity at this time is limited to one small ferry, sailboats bobbing in their berths, a small amount of fisherman activity and several beach areas lined with empty chairs and umbrellas. As we head from SML, the path takes a breathtaking turn right long the water and then meanders through some pretty woods until we eventually get sight of that famous scene of Portofino and its pastel-colored buildings hugging the sea. Anchored offshore today is the black-bottomed Nero, the near 300 foot antique style yacht with a giant slide off its side for swimmers. Two tenders, with 8 of the yacht’s crew of 20, shuttle guests who are typically paying about $500k a week to charter the boat. We saw this beautiful boat several years ago in the Caribbean. In the small town, tourists and tour groups compete with ritzy looking people for space inside and outside upscale boutique shops. We have always wanted to come here and were surprised that it was not busier than it was. Most of the small harbor area on this day was covered with newer cars belonging to a British Maserati owner’s group. We considered checking out the Splendido Hotel far up a hill from the waterfront and the place where the rich and famous pay big bucks to spend a night. Instead, we hiked to the 1500’s Castello Brown that stands guard over the harbor. Its biggest draw is the view from above and its collection of photos of all the famous people who have visited Portofino. Fortunately, we also noticed a trail to he lighthouse at the end of the peninsula. And, the bonus at the end, especially on such a gorgeous day, was the white-washed bar (felt like we were on a Greek island), a place so special it was easy to overlook paying twice as much for a drink as you would anywhere else. The walk back included a longer visit in SML and an early dinner, a walk through the old town and a visit to the stunning cathedral. By the end of the day, we noticed that we had walked about 14 miles, and it was all so beautiful, we didn’t really notice.

Day Three:
We decided to do some driving and picked the nearby town of Camogli, a beachfront village that an Italian guest recommended to us when we were innkeepers ten years ago. Its certainly not Miami Beach, but the buildings soar higher than the ones in SML and Portofino, yet they have the same colors and feel. The big difference is that Camogli is clearly off the radar and is slower paced. There is a larger fishing community there, but this clearly is a beach resort, a somewhat ritzy one but it seems like an Italian secret. We saw a display of photos from over the years, showing an annual fish fry, in which they use a giant pan, as large as you can imagine. And, we were told, that every year in May, they give away the fried fish for free. We talked to a couple from Norway, staying in Sestri Levante, and one visit to Camogli convinced them that next time that this will be their base. We loved it as well, even if we thought there wasn’t much beyond the imposing beachfront buildings. But there are trails that connect other seaside towns. Since we had the car, we drove over to San Rocco, although we could have walked. From there, well above the beaches of Camogli, you get panoramic views of that entire area of coastline from Camogli north. Little San Rocco has hardly any population and some beautiful villas, but there are several restaurants that we suspect are great because they have to bring in guests from Camogli. There is a striking cathedral here, but the hiking trails and views are the main attraction. We returned to Rapallo and spent time exploring the unique shops there. We discovered a regular, albeit small, produce market and several fresh pasta shops, each with a number of impressive pasta machines that produce various shapes of pasta each with several employees. We bought a couple different types of ravioli and spaghetti, and, along with some fresh veggies from the market, had our first of several dinners at home, utilizing our deck and watching the sunset.



Day Four:
This was to be a big day. We had been to Cinque Terre once. Ten years ago. And, we had read to never try to drive there. But then it was November, and we just happened to see a sign for Vernazza as we were heading toward Milan for an eventual flight back home. The road was narrow and winding, but there was no traffic and we got as close to the village as they allow, leaving us a bit of a walk. And, we fell in love. Found a little place that made us a sandwich and poured us a glass of local white wine for two euros. Took so many beautiful photos and were saddened when we herd about the terrible mudslides a few years later. Now, we planned to go back and spend time in all five of the villages, but we knew that this area has become popular, and early October is a lot different than late November. We planned to take the train and thought it would take us two days, or, since we were based in Rapallo, two trips. For that reason, we bought a 2-day Cinque Terre card that allowed travel between Levanto and La Spezia. All we would have to pay would be a nominal charge from Rapallo to Levanto. This pass allows for unlimited travel between the various Cinque Terre (CT) towns as well. And, did we mention free access to rest rooms and free wifi. By the time we got to Levanto, the trains to CT are filling up. First stop for us is Monterosso and the beginning of the hike that has made news because over-tourism there has resulted in recent action to limit the numbers of people allowed on the trails. You have to buy a ticket, and we didn’t know what to expect. Monterosso, the northernmost of the famed coastal towns, itself is beautiful and surprisingly quiet, perhaps because it was early and many of the visitors to CT begin from the south. We saw only four or five people on the beach, although the sun was warm, and little was happening in the part of the town that we walked through. We headed for the trail, paid our fee, and quickly realized that, even small numbers of people, would make the narrow paths seem at least a bit crowded at times. We quickly ignore the steady line of hikers headed in both directions, focusing on our climbing, taking photos and enjoying the first scenic views of now distant Monterosso below. There are signs of occasional agricultural activity on these steep slopes and little cars that run up and down on tracks to facilitate the planting and harvest. The views kept coming in both directions. In less than two hours, there was the next village, Vernazza, below, and steep terraces loaded with grapes and other plantings. We also caught the first glimpse of the train tunnels that are necessary to bring service to these old fishing villages that have been turned into major tourist destinations. Although we had been anxious to return to Vernazza, the excitement quickly wore off as this town is clearly ground zero for any signs of over-tourism this time of year. There is one tour group leader after another holding the flag that dozens follow behind. We just couldn’t move. Time for a bathroom break and to just move on. Then back to the trails, but within a couple hundred feet up, just far enough from the maddening crowds, we found a little restaurant/bar with stunning views of our once beloved town. We ordered a couple Aperol Spritzers and just enjoyed the calm beauty of this special little town from a hillside that was just far enough away from the noise and sight of the tour groups. For whatever reason, this section of trail seemed to have fewer people. We could climb large expanses of granite stairs without seeing another hiker in any direction. Green netting was in place below olive trees, getting ready for the fall harvest. We came upon a tiny little village on high ground between Vernazza and Corneglia. Our photos tag the spot as part of Vernazza, but we weren’t sure about that. The important thing is that it was a little oasis, especially a little juice bar that had stacks and stacks of boxes full of fresh oranges. You could get other beverages, and many simply selected their specialty, a mix of fresh lemon and fresh orange. We settled for the fresh oj, and it was a nice lift for the last phase of this less than 2-hour stretch. When we arrived in Corneglia, we found a more civilized little town with some nice shops and no signs of large tour groups. The remainder of the trails were closed due to damage from the mudslides seven years ago. If you had some extra time, a lot of extra time, there were paths up over the mountains that still connect these last villages. Time for trains, and, fortunately for us, a massive set of stairs, 382 steps to be exact, led DOWN to the trains. Those coming in to the town have to make the climb UP, and we saw some people navigating the stairs with roller bags. Next stop was Manarola, and the entrance, once you exit the train, rather than by stairs, was through a long tunnel. All the villages look a bit different. Manarola has some big rocks at the entrance to its little harbor. And, those rocks on this warm, sunny Friday play the role of beach for the locals. And, one young guy after another was diving from points high up on the rocks into narrow areas between the rocks. It looked very daring and very dangerous to us. Most of this town sits on a cliff above these rocks. A very dramatic setting. Maybe it was the time of day, but the last of the five villages, Riomaggiore, the closest point to most of the tour buses and cruise ships south of CT, was fairly quiet. Quite a few sunbathers dotted the pebbly beach below. We walked a short distance on the part of the trail, headed back north, that you still can access, mostly to get photos. One gelato shop had a really long line, but these people were part of a tour group that ended with a free cone. Although we liked our base, we know that all these villages, like so many in Italy, come alive at night without the bus groups. For us, we felt we had seen and done the CT for now and were fortunate that the weather was so nice and that we had come from the north and not followed the larger crowds from the south.


Day Five:
We still had that second day on our CT Card, which meant that a good portion of train travel in that direction would be free. (As a side note, during our six weeks in Europe, we rode dozens of trains and had our tickets checked maybe 10-15% of the time. We are not suggesting you don’t get tickets, but sometimes the panic over validations and the like can be over-done. We rarely had to validate since 95% of our tickets were bought online and were on our iPhone. Ironically, for us, one ticket check, near Florence, was on a 5-minute trip to make a connection, just as we were preparing to exit to the platform.) We decided the most efficient use of the CT card was to check out La Spezia, a large city that is largely a funnel for much of the CT traffic. And, that would be our link to Portovenere on one side and Lerici and Tellaro on the other. First up La Spezia, a large port city that is largely overlooked by the millions of people who pass through each year. We ended taking two looks on what seemed like our zillionth consecutive warm, sunny day of our trip. We took a morning jaunt through areas that included a large covered, but open, produce market and down streets lined with trees bulging with oranges. We hadn’t done a lot of homework but eventually happened onto a large ticket office for local buses. They helped us figure out where to catch a bus to Portovenere, the medieval town that is at the very end of the long peninsula that includes the Cinque Terre towns. The bus wound its way along the waterfront and the many Italian naval ships that fill the La Spezia harbor, and we realized that this bus was largely a local one serving some little towns along the way. It was a good sign to us that we might be the only tourists. To our astonishment, Portovenere looked a lot like Portofino without the crowds. Big pine trees shielded some of the cafes from the sun; a few people played in the little beach in front; and there were a few kayakers getting ready. And, of course, some yachts. At the end of the point is a stone castle, from where we could see maybe half of the day’s visitors to the area sunning on the many rocks and terraces of rocks below. We walked the old streets that had just the right amount of people and grabbed some food at a great “focacceria”, whose entrance was a giant curtain of weaved pasta. Near the waterfront, there were about a dozen or more unusual looking sports cars, all in different colors, with an emblem “Caterham”. We learned that these were British race cars. The owners, wearing racing shirts, and sitting at a table that was connected to the front end of an old Fiat and trying to enjoy some wine in the square, jumped up with alarm when a youngster touched something on one of the cars. But they smiled as a bride and groom selected one of the cars for a wedding photo. There were beautiful walkways, and more activity on the water than on the shore. Clearly off the radar for tourists; a place mostly for locals. On this summer-like day, this was our perfect idea of what the Italian Riviera should be. But we also wanted to see the opposite side of the La Spezia harbor and traveled back to the city by bus. We hopped on another bus that took us to Lerici, another unknown gem, this one anchored by an even larger castle. We were welcomed by a long shaded walkway, with couples and families sitting on benches in front of a sea full of smaller boats, hundreds of them. We saw lots of seafood at restaurants and at retail. The castle had a free entry, at least on this day. The outside ramparts provided views in every direction. Inside, there was a modern 2-story gallery that highlighted the local mussel farming history. This may have been a temporary exhibit, since there was an indication of a recent mussel festival. In one large cell-like area of the castle, there also were two life-like female mannequins dressed in outfits made of pasta; we were not sure of the significance but it gave us a laugh. This is another special coastal town that the lack of rail service has preserved for Italians. We had gone this far and had heard that a town that some have called the sixth Cinque Terre town, Tellaro, was a short additional bus ride to the south. The road there is very narrow, so the buses are understandably small. Tellaro definitely had the look of a CT village, sitting on a steep cliff reaching to the sea with a tiny harbor at the bottom. A very tiny harbor with a handful of small overturned fishing boats. And a few walkways and terraces close to the sea, reserved for and being used by several dozen locals, as their “beach.” Community activity seemed important here. They have kept the old communal wash houses for display in an area where they also had a communal water source. There are various signs of octopus in this village, based on a legend about one that supposedly rang the church bell when the rope fell into the water. This is a small village, not much for tourists, and it seems they like it that way. Two more buses, and we were back in La Spezia. We walked to the waterfront where there was a wide cobbled walkway under large palm trees, and a large cruise ship was getting ready to leave. At sunset, we decided to head into the heart of the old city, and we discovered Italy at its finest. Wide pedestrian only streets, beautiful shops, busy restaurants, food of every kind, families, young people, all locals. And, we were the only ones taking pictures, and the locals seemed to wonder why.

Day Six:
Although we had sworn to never step foot in Genoa again, after our travel issues on our first day, we were beginning to run out of new places to reach from Rapallo. And, the train there was only a few dollars, and we were curious. The hour or so train ride itself was more than worth the time, all along the coast, with a few stops in nice little villages. We hadn’t seen Santa Margherita Ligure or Camogli from the train, and this was an extra. The large station, Genova Piazza Principe, was one of several Genoa stops but the one that brought us to the city center. And, the grand station itself is certainly one of the city highlights. Immediately outside was an imposing statue of Christopher Columbus, since the city claims he was born there. We started what would turn out to be about 10 miles of walking, first on pedestrianized Via Garibaldi. We knew that was where the action was since we began to spot cruise ship tour groups. We decided against a day of museums, and, although we quickly visited the open Palazzo Doria, we mostly wanted to get a feel of the city’s vibe. We eventually came upon the large Piazza de Ferrari, the city’s main square with its signature fountain. The square is surrounded by several palaces and a theatre. This area was the dividing line between the old and new cities, and we got a bit mis-directed from here. But it allowed us to see a few sights that many miss. We passed through a large shopping area of old buildings, many with arcaded walkways known as caruggi. And, then in a seemingly odd place, there was what looked like the Arc di Triomphe, Genoa’s victory arch, dedicated to those lost in WWI. Across from there were some sort of gorgeous nautical-themed gardens, a hillside of white and red flowers forming large anchors and ships. Eventually, we found our way to the waterfront, an industrialized area, far from the center. There were mega yachts being serviced and some marinas in this largely commercial area. In the distance, we glimpsed the first of four large cruise ships, three of them owned by MSC (and one of them we saw the day before in La Spezia). The sidewalks in this area were dirty. But when we reached the modern port area, we were in for a pleasant surprise. Bordered by the old city, Genoa has re-made a portion of its waterfront with a huge aquarium, an Eataly (now an international chain showcasing Italian products) and other restaurants, and promenades and boardwalks from which to enjoy looking at the cruise ships and the mega yachts berthed there. The only corny thing was a tethered circular car that would take passengers high up for views, but we found a similar effect for free at Eataly, which was a few floors off the ground, and had a free glass elevator. Eataly’s restaurants were mobbed, so we ate at one on the ground floor of their building with a terrace overlooking the sea and had pasta with pesto, which originated in Genoa. Excellent. This entire area was bustling, with a Sunday market in a nearby square as you entered the old city. The old city had all the usual stuff, nice shops, interesting eating places, and little churches full of stunning art. The one surprise, not far from the waterfront, was an area that spanned a number of streets that, on this Sunday afternoon, was chock full of prostitutes. After the train ride back to Rapallo, we splurged on our first gelato in Rapallo, a nice end to a surprisingly great day.


Day Seven:
Back to the Rapallo train station this morning, where there are two regulars inside with their hands out. Like others, we all feel the dilemma of who to help, but you often hear that voice in your head re-telling a possible myth about some professional pan-handlers who rake in six figure annual incomes. One of them stands awkwardly against the same wall all day every day. The other is sitting in the hallway to the first platform, a little more aggressive with his cap out and ready to help someone validate their ticket for a tip. First stop today is Chiavari, a medium-sized town just south of Rapallo. Upon first glance, and even a second one, this seaside resort is simply not as good looking as most of the other places we have seen in the last week. But there is something compelling about those caruggi (the covered porticos over many of the sidewalks) in the old town, which is a bit removed from the waterfront and its more modern and sterile buildings. More to our liking were the old buildings like the columned entry to the magnificent cathedral. We then walked a bit, past a large outdoor produce market, before finding our way to the botanical gardens at the former Villa Rocca. We were the only visitors and wondered how, based on the entry fee, which we recall was only one euro each, they paid the ticket taker. But other concessions were evident everywhere. These gardens get lots of raves from some travel writers, but we found it peaceful but very neglected. There were nice views at the higher spots and even a nice working waterfall, but a headless statue, mold, rust and overgrowth seemed to rule our impression of the park. Back in the village, we discovered why there was something that was beckoning about those caruggi as the first splashes of rain on our trip so far were coming down. This is why this is a recommended visit for travelers on a rainy day. We took a break and had the best focaccia we ever tasted. Not sure how they can roast tomatoes to get so much flavor. The rain didn’t last, and we headed for the next village south, Sestri Levante. It was a bit of a hike from the rail station to the old town, full of more of those pastel colored buildings, with perfectly restored exteriors, and nicely positioned close to, and in the middle of, two seas in this area across from Portofino. We liked the looks here a lot better than Chiavari. Once an island, but now connected by a thin piece of land, we first found the Bay of Silence, a small harbor with a quiet, but decent size beach. At this still gloomy hour, the beach was empty but the harbor was full of small boats. The Bay of Fables is on the busier side, with a long stone paved promenade, lots of private beaches, some labeled as free beaches. The two bays are named as a tribute to the Danish writer Hans Christian Anderson who once lived here. On this day, the first day of October, it looked like the beach pavilions were closing down for the season. There were two street vendors trying to sell umbrellas, but there were few people around. Even traffic was light, but the local police stopped a couple of what appeared to be American senior citizens in their rental car. Not sure for what, but one cop had the rear hatch of his car open, revealing a small office, and he was inputting, into a small computer, information from the driver’s international license. The other cop was standing alongside the driver’s door, holding with two hands a very long gun, which, we are sure, was unsettling to this couple. An otherwise beautiful city that we want to return to.


Day Eight: We decided to take out the car for our last day in this area, and decided first to head into the mountains for an open-ended day. We felt like the only car on the road as we climbed up through a number of small hill towns that appeared to be serviced by a La Spezia based bus line. Our destination, Varese Ligure, had earned some positive media attention years ago when the local town officials, well before their time, encouraged the once dying area to focus on organic agricultural and renewable energy. They also created a competitive atmosphere to get properties restored. It may be best known as a village that was created in the round, and, although you notice the curved streets and buildings, it takes an aerial view to fully appreciate. We found the little village in the midst of its weekly market, with a little bit of everything, clothes, meats, and produce (which didn’t appear to be organic). The mountain air was a little cooler that morning than we had been used to. So, we stepped into a crowded coffee shop in the main square and ordered hot chocolate and pastries. The last time we had this type of chocolate was at the Perugia chocolate festival. Thick like pudding and exceptional and only 3 euros each including the really fresh pastry. Everyone was friendly, and we felt bad for the little produce store when they have to compete with the outsiders who man the market in the street. There were signs of agriturismos outside the village but no other obvious sign of the 100 or so organic farms nor did we see evidence of wind, solar or hydro power. It was a cute town with a nice crisp fall feeling. We decided to head south on a different road that included a couple tunnels through the mountains. We were curious about an outlet mall in Brugnato that is heavily advertised to tourists going to Cinque Terre. On one of the mall’s out-parcels was a large modern square building housing a large butcher shop, something we had never seen in such a place. The mall itself, as large as a typical outlet mall, had beautiful grounds and landscaping and was full of upscale stores, mostly Italian/European but some names we are more familiar with like Nike and Ralph Lauren Polo. The downside, there were hardly any customers. In fact, we saw more people in a food court building than we saw in total in or around any of the stores. And, that was likely because the food court offered a high level of fast service food with attractive displays. For contrast, we went across the road from this typical roadside mall and found ourselves in Brugnato’s little old town. Pastel colored buildings, a beautiful church, town squares, a religious museum built and re-built as a palace for archbishops since 1133 and originally built on the site of an abbey that was even hundreds of years older. People live in this community but we didn’t see anyone. A nearby hill town above, Bozzolo, caught our eye, so we headed that way and hoped to get a birdseye view of Brugnato, which is another of the few circular medieval communities in Italy and our second of the day. Bozzolo had an eerie feel. We walked its few streets and saw only one person and, feeling like trespassers, we made a quick exit. With a car, we decided it was time to see the one place we had missed so far in Rapallo. Montallegro is the mountain above the city and is serviced by a cable car. For some reason, even with a perfect sight from our apartment, we had not seen one cable car go up the mountain, so we assumed it was closed. We also saw some chatter on the internet about closures at various times and assumed that it was current. So, we drove up the long (30 minutes) narrow, winding road. A fair number of people live on the hillside, and we also had to navigate parked cars in places. Stunning views going up but not a pleasant drive. Once on top, we realized we had been wrong about the cable car. It was in operation. Most people go up there to see the views and the magnificent church, The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Montallegro. It was originally built in 1559, on the site of a claimed visit there by Mary, with some changes since. The walls are covered with messages and gifts of thanks for miracles claimed to be granted. There is a hotel and restaurant out front, but we found a beautiful slate path behind the church through a scenic woodland. A short distance away was one of the best spots we have ever seen for a hotel/restaurant. A large terrace overlooks the coastline from Rapallo to SML to Portofino and the lighthouse beyond. A great spot for our nice large glass of Prosecco and snacks for a few dollars. And, a fitting end to our visit to the Riviera.

Sorry for the confusion. Yes that was a typo. Meant to say Genoa. Nothing sub-conscious about Bologna, an area we loved in a visit following the Riviera and now it's too late to edit. It may have simply been the late night post while I was watching my Dodgers blow their lead. Too bad we missed Moneglia; it looks like a nice place.

I take it you have seen about the storm? This is Rapallo:

We saw that video, as well as news of problems all over Europe including Venice and Rome, and even Salzburg, where we also were in September. We took photos of some of the yachts that were damaged in that video. We had 40 days in Europe this fall, 36 with perfect warm, sunny weather and even the bad days had some sunshine. Every morning in Rapallo, we had beautiful sunrises. The contrast is stunning, and we obviously consider ourselves very lucky.