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Old Jan 7th, 2009, 05:58 PM
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questions about normandy and loire valley

hi fodorites,

i'm thinking about a two-week trip to france - one week in paris and one week somewhere else.

DH and i spent one week in paris and one week in provence this past fall. this time around, we're thinking about normandy and the loire valley.

i have a few questions:

1. we're canadians and would like to visit the canadian d-day sites in normandy (juno, dieppe, ??). we'd also like to visit mont st. michel. how much time could be devoted to this? we would rent a car.

2. DH is not a huge chateau fan ... he'd likely die of boredom if i dragged him to more than a few chateau in the loire. could we visit perhaps three of them and get a good 'taste'? if so, which three are recommended? and how many days should i allocate for this?

3. vague question -- any budgetary issues i could consider? for example, while in provence, we found things VERY affordable. food was not pricey (and we ate well!) and our accommodations were very budget-friendly. we did find the one week car rental to be expensive though (autoeurope, diesel, automatic).

for some background, we're in our early 30's and are pretty fast-paced. the primary purpose of this trip is to go back to paris (i have an inexplicable craving ... see my other thread "i want to go back to paris&quot ... but i wanted to explore tacking on a second week (or less)in a different/new region.

thanks!!
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Old Jan 7th, 2009, 06:34 PM
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I haven't been to Normany so I can't help with that part.

As for the Loire valley, I went there in June and the car rental (and gas!) were expensive. Lodging cost me about 65-70€ per night.

Does your husband like castles and/or gardens? Some of the chateau in the Loire valley are most like castles (e.g. they have moats and openings for pouring oil). Personally, I'm more of a castle than chateau person myself. There's also some nice gardens in the area.

I hope this helps.
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Old Jan 7th, 2009, 06:41 PM
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Recommending the usual suspects: Chenonceau and Chambord. The gardens at Villandry are enjoyable--people say one doesn't need to tour. I was a bit disappointed in Azay le Rideau (OK--probably didn't spell it right either) but it is sometimes on the list.
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Old Jan 7th, 2009, 06:44 PM
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Loire Valley-
Château d'Amboise - great views

Château du Clos Lucé - where Leonardo da Vinci lived the last 4 years of his life. has some good exhibits and his inventions re-created. might be more intersting to your husband

Chateau & Jardins de Villandry - Incredible gardens. Must see for any garden lovers

Chenonceau - Most famous chateau in the Loire. Beautiful setting across the River Cher. Read about Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici before you go.
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Old Jan 7th, 2009, 09:23 PM
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Battlebus tours does a "Canadian Experience" 1 day tour. We did their 2 day "American Experience" and found it to be simply outstanding. See if they have something you like. I would really recommend them. Bayeux is a really nice town to stay in too.
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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 01:29 AM
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There are some good treads on the site on both WWII and the Mont so I suggest use the search facility to start with.

I spent a fair amount of my childhood in Normandy and it is a low density sort of a place with realtively slow roads (even now) so you need a good plan of where to go to. For a 30 year old apart from the reasons meantioned and a need to eat very fresh fish.....

Loire on the other hand hasa some great wines. I suggest try and stay in a chateau hotel. Eg http://www.abbaye-fontevraud.com/v3/home/ has a grat place n the priory next door and you can visit the abbey as part of the deal.

Then wine tasting and a few abbeys gets it out of the sytem.
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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 02:03 AM
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Normandy and Loire are both wonderful places to complement a Paris visit. You could easily split the extra week between the two--3 days in Loire then 3-4 in Normandy. Amboise makes a nice base for the Loire and I'd opt for Honfleur for Normandy.

In 3 days you could see a lot in the Loire. For sure Chenonceau and Villandry. If you stay in Amboise, that's a logical 3rd chateau. Otherwise Chambord is a big deal from the outside and Cheverny has wonderful furnishings and the feeding of the pack of hunting hounds. Be sure to also check out the wines there and the troglodyte caves. The small villages will furnish nice markets and good strolling.

You could probably drive from Amboise to Mt. St. Michel and stay one night outside the village with views back onto it, then drive up the cost to Honfleur, stopping at some of the cemetaries enroute and doing one of the tours. Deauville and Trouville are interesting, but the harbor at Honfleur is very special and there's lots to do in the area. Alternately consider staying somewhere else on the coast and just soaking up coastal life. We stayed in St. Aubin a little way from Caen at a wonderful little hotel on the sea for very little cost. Honfleur hotels will be a bit more expensive. In general I'd consider the Loire a pricier destination than Normandy.

If you're young and on the move, all of this would be very doable and leave you longing to return not only to Paris, but also to Normandy and the Loire.
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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 02:03 AM
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Hi Lilaki,

My 3 girlfriends and I toured the Loire Valley in late November 2007. We also included an overnight visit to Le Mont St Michel. Staying overnight on the Mont was an absolute highlight for us all and it is something I would highly recommend.

I found the driving very easy going and experienced no problems (even though it is on the opposite side of the road to us).

I completely understand your concern for your DH regarding the chateaux. My DH would be bored silly. I agree that Château du Clos Lucé would hold his interest as a number of his inventions are on display there. I also think that Chenonceau would be my recommendation for one other. I seriously think two would be it for your DH.

I'm not a great foodee or a wine - ee or a cheese -ee but I do believe if you are, you would probably be in 7th Heaven around the Loire so that should help to occupy some further time there.

Can't help with Normandy as we did a dash from Le Mont St Michel back to Paris only stopping at Rouen. BUT I'll recommend again a night at Le Mont St Michel again!
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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 07:57 AM
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L'Ecrin in Honfleur is recommended often here as an overnight stay. We enjoyed it also.

Les Minimes in Amboise is lovely, if pricey. Le Clos de Amboise (I believe that's its name) is a bit cheaper and was also nice.

Mont St. Michel is a beautiful sight at night. I would recommend staying off the island looking at it. But there are opinions here both ways.

Although you are Canadian, Omaha Beach and the American Cemetary there are quite an emotional experience.

If you have the time at all, driving part of the cider route in Normandy is bucolic and beautiful. The apple trees were in bloom last May when we were there. Get a good map and take those little roads that are off the freeway
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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 01:27 PM
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I'll second the recommendation to spend some time on the cider and cheese routes in Normandy. Charming. Completely charming.
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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 03:17 PM
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I cycled from Dieppe to the Loire several years ago. If you stick to the secondary roads, you will find it very scenic. I would include a stop at Les Andelys to see the Richard the Lionhearted castle (ruins in a very spectacular setting overlooking the Seine).

Also drive there along the Loir (no 'e' - a different river).

In the Loire, I would see Chambord and Chenonceau for sure, and then select any other if you have time. Cheverny is interesting - if you go, get there before the feeding of the dogs.

Allow 1/2 day per Chateau and you won't feel rushed or overwhelmed.

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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 03:33 PM
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<i>Allow 1/2 day per Chateau and you won't feel rushed or overwhelmed.</i>

Which, of course, is the problem. You may want to spend 1/2 a day at each chateau, but I imagine your husband wanting to spend no more than 1/2 HOUR.
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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 04:15 PM
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I'll second the recommendation for Honfleur. There are many that don't like Honfleur - too touristy they claim. I liked staying there and walking around in the morning before the day-trippers came.

We were very impressed with the tours of the Normandy area. We took one with Victory Tours (Roel). www. victorytours.com It is a one-man show and he has a van - 8 people is his max I think. If you know of a relative or friend who landed there, tell him in advance and he will look up specifically when and where they landed. We only did a 1/2 day tour, but wished we could have done the full day tour. We skipped the &quot;Peace Museum&quot; at Caen. Based on what I read, it wasn't for us.

Another fun day trip was to Etretat. It is the French version of the white cliffs of Dover. Fun to climb to the tops of the cliffs overlooking the town down below. You've seen photos - it is amazing.

We stayed in Honfleur at La Cour Ste Catherine. We had a large room with a table and seating area and very roomy. We also left early one morning and she met us with baguettes and croissants for the road. www.giaglis.com We would stay there again in a heartbeat.

have fun!
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Old Jan 8th, 2009, 08:25 PM
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hi everyone,

thanks so much for the advice ... after reading the posts, i think one week would be very do-able for normandy and the loire valley.

and unfortunately, 1/2 day per chateau would probably drive DH nuts! however, he is very interested in the da vinci one ... so that's a bonus!

without having to move around TOO much, i'm thinking three nights in normandy and two to three nights in the loire. right now, i can't figure out a decent base in normandy that would be close enough to all the sights <b>AND</b> MSM. however, maybe we'll have to suck it up for one night and stay out near the mont and then head to the loire (assuming we land in CDG, grab the rental, drive to bayeux, honfleur, or wherever we decide to stay first and then circle back to paris via the loire valley).

i'll post back with other questions and/or a draft itinerary for your review soon.

thanks again!
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Old Jan 11th, 2009, 04:56 PM
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Perhaps I can give you a Canadian perspective on your visit to Normandy.

There are quite a few Canadian sites worth visiting in Normandy, but as your time is limited, I'll suggest the highlights.

You should definitely visit Dieppe. Head there from Paris and stay overnight. As well as the main beach, you should try to see the other landing sites at Puys and Pourville, to the west and east of Dieppe respectively. When you compare these beaches with their dominating cliffs to the flat beaches at Juno you will understand that lessons were indeed learned from the disaster at Dieppe (although not perhaps by the planners for Omaha Beach.)

From Dieppe head to Lower Normandy and base yourself for two or preferably three nights in Bayeux. It's a charming town and convenient to most of the sights that you will want to see. These include the Juno Beach Centre at Courseulles-sur-Mer, the Canadian Cemetery at B&eacute;ny-sur-Mer, the M&eacute;morial de Caen (plan at least a half day), Arromanches and Omaha Beach with the American Cemetery at St-Laurent-sur Mer. When at Courseulles, you should try to continue along Juno Beach to Bernieres-sur-Mer and St. Aubin. The Abbaye d'Ardennes, where Canadian POWs were murdered by the SS is certainly worth a visit.

There are many sites inland (remember that the Battle of Normandy lasted until nearly the end of August 1944), but you probably won't have time to see them.

If you are not confident about finding your way around, you might take a tour. manhattangirl recommends Battlebus, and while I have never taken a tour in Normandy, their one day Canadian Juno tour looks very good to me. Their tours leave from Bayeux.

A number of posters have suggested that you stay in Honfleur. While it is a pretty seaside town, it is a bit far from the sights you want to visit. You might stop there for lunch en route from Dieppe.

After Bayeux, head to Mont St Michel. You want to get there towards the end of the day when the tour buses are leaving. Stay overnight on the Mont and see the sights the next morning early before the day-trippers arrive. You can then leave mid-morning for a couple of days in the Loire before returning to Paris.

So that you will have a better understanding of what you will be seeing in Normandy, there are several books that I would recommend. Terry Copp's &quot;Fields of Fire&quot; is essential for a narrative of the Canadian part in the Battle of Normandy. Ted Barris' &quot;Juno&quot; focusses on D-Day and the days immediately after with personal accounts of the battle. For a guidebook and an overview of the battle, Terry Copp and Mike Bechtold's &quot;The Canadians in Normandy--A Visitor's Guide&quot; is very useful. It's filled with maps and photographs and has many practical suggestions on touring the area. For Dieppe, I'd suggest Denis and Sheila Whittaker's &quot;Dieppe: Tragedy to Triumph&quot;, a first-hand account of the battle.

I've visited Normandy a number of times and have followed the path of the Canadian Army from Juno Beach to the Seine, so if you have further questions, I'd be happy to help.
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Old Jan 11th, 2009, 05:41 PM
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laverendrye - thank you SOOOOO much for all of the information! it's so nice to have a canadian perspective.

our flight from toronto would land quite early in the morning at CDG ... do you think it's feasible to drive from CDG to dieppe and then onto bayeux for a few nights? i'm trying to minimize the amount of 'hotel-hopping' that we have to do ...

tks again!!
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Old Jan 11th, 2009, 06:50 PM
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You might want to consider spliting the week between Normany and Brittany. We did that on a two-week trip with the second week in Paris. It was a great trip!

We enjoyed our time in Brittany more than the Loire (another trip). We saw the main chateaus in the Loire and although we did enjoy it, we had a great time in Normandy and Brittany.

After landing at CDG, we drove to Giverney and saw Monet's gardens and spent the night there at a B&amp;B. We drove on to Honfleur the next day, spent one night there and then to Bayeau for a couple of nights. We did part of the cider route on the way and very much enjoyed the countryside. We did the D-Day sights from Bayeau (with Roel).

We saw Mont St Michael on the way to Dinan (in Brittany) where we stayed for three nights and saw some of the surrounding area. Dinan is such a fun place to stay.

Either way you can't go wrong. We've never seen a part of France that we didn't like! I think for us, we enjoy the scenic drives the most and that seems to be the reason we end up prefering one area over another.

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Old Jan 11th, 2009, 07:15 PM
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lilaki

I know that you want to minimize the number of places you stay overnight, but I would certainly not recommend driving to Dieppe and then on to Bayeux after an overnight flight.

Dieppe is about 2 and a half hours from Charles de Gaulle, which is just about the most that you would want to drive on arrival. Take the rest of the day to visit and get an early night's sleep. You'll be much better off. Set out the next morning, have lunch in Honfleur and get into Bayeux in the early afternoon. You can then look around Bayeux that day and spend the next day or two visiting the D-Day and other sights.

It sounds as if your husband is not all that interested in the Loire, so why rush? Take the time to enjoy Normandy, and blh has made a good suggestion about Brittany. After Mont St Michel, why not visit St. Malo and Dinan? Stay in Dinan for a few nights. It's a wonderful old town.
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Old Jan 11th, 2009, 07:27 PM
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Old Mar 19th, 2009, 09:16 AM
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I'm not sure why people are against staying on Mont St Michel. Granted the rooms aren't cheap, but night is amazing on the island. With nearly all the tourists gone, you really get the feeling of being in the middle ages. If you go in the summer, the abbey is open at night as well. They had a fantastic son et lumiere when I was there, but that was long ago. In any case, the whole place is much more atmospheric at night.

I strongly suggest contacting Maison de la France, the French tourism bureau, before your trip. They frequently have special offers not available elsewhere. Their website has lots of great info. Also, stopping in at tourist offices can yield some surprising free souveniers.

One city not mentioned by others, but well worth a visit, is Caen. Lots of history and a really good D-Day museum.

If one of you is into Da Vinci, Amboise is a great choice for a chateau. In the Loire Valley, two great non-chateaux stops are Chartres and Orleans.

Be sure to proudly declare tht you are Canadian. The people of Normandy are still very happy to show their gratitude!
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