Questions about Aeolians
Jul 14th, 2002, 08:13 AM
#1
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Questions about Aeolians
I have a reservation on Panaera at Raya - which looks very nice, but now I'm wondering if it's too isolated to take a day trip or two. Has anyone stayed there? Is there access to water (pool, beach, whatever)? <BR><BR>We're staying for 4 nights and I don't want to stay at different hotels, but I'm wondering if we'll feel too isolated on Panarea. <BR><BR>I'm wondering if we'll be better off on Lipari - but I also don't want to feel too "in the middle of it all." I've read a lot about Carasco on this site. Thanks for the info - are there any other hotels on Lipari that are recommended (so I can compare)? This is our anniversary trip, so we'd like to stay at 4 or 5 star, if possible. <BR><BR>Finally, the Raya site makes it seem like there's a direct hydrofoil from Naples to Panaera. Is that true?<BR><BR>Thanks!
Jul 15th, 2002, 07:44 AM
#3
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It's flattering to see a recommendation to search under "GAC". He is very pleased that people have read his posts on Lipari!<BR><BR>To answer MCT's questions, I personally would not stay four nights on Panarea, not because it is not a beautiful island (some say it is the most "Greek" in appearance), but simply because I would get very bored after about six hours there. The Raya is visible from the ferry ship and hydrofoil docking about 200 yards away. The hotel is well regarded and enjoys direct views of Stromboli and the small isles off of Panarea itself. Panarea is the smallest of the seven Aeolian Islands. You can walk from end to end in about 45 minutes. There is an prehistoric archeological site on Punta Milazzese which is very scenic. Prices are steeper on Panarea compared to Lipari, which has very much more "going on". Panarea seems to attract more of the "rich and famous", but I personally prefer Lipari for its rich diversity. The hydrofoil (and overnight car ferry) from Naples do indeed stop at Panarea before proceeding for Salina and Lipari.<BR><BR>Also, connections to Vulcano, Filicudi and Alicudi are faster from Lipari than from Panarea. However, if you only plan to do side trips to Stromboli, Lipari and Salina, Panarea would be more central).<BR><BR>Given your special requirements, the only other hotel which I would recommend on Lipari (aside from the Carasco, which is my favorite) is the four-star Villa Meligunis, 200 yards from Marina Corta (you can walk there from the hydrofoil dock in about 3 minutes). Meligunis is VERY expensive (you're paying for the proximity to Marina Corta, which has night life), but the sea views from the Carasco cannot be equalled. By the way, you pass by the Meligunis when walking from Marina Corta to Carasco. <BR><BR>There are as yet no five-star properties anywhere on the Aeolian Islands. Indeed, there are only three or four four-star properties (Le Sables Noires on Vulcano, Villa Meligunis on Lipari, Le Sirenette on Stromboli, to name a few).<BR><BR>You did not mention when you plan to go. When I was there at the end of May, the islands were VERY pleasant, but beginning around the middle of June, they start to fill up with tourists, and by the first week of August, they become a zoo!<BR><BR>If you decide to stay overnight on Lipari, you might consider requesting one of the air conditioned junior suites on the fourth floor of the Carasco, facing the Castello (I stayed in a "normal" room on the second floor, with identical view). These rooms need to be reserved well in advance. Rooms on the third floor also have a/c, but not those on the second floor.
Jul 15th, 2002, 11:22 AM
#4
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Thank you so much for your response. I can't tell you how helpful your postings have been. I'll be sure to follow up with a trip report upon my return. By the way, this leg of our trip will be 9/4-9/8. I've Emailed Carasco and am hoping they'll have availablility (I know, I'm late....)
Jul 15th, 2002, 11:46 AM
#5
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Dear MCT: I'm sure you'll love your trip to the Aeolian Islands. I'll wait to read your report. Early September is a good time, still crowded, still warm, yet "over the hump" of Ferragosto. You should be able to secure space at the Carasco (although perhaps not the very best rooms; bear in mind that the vast majority of the double rooms do have sea views). They will ask for a deposit, refundable with 30 days advance notice. In re-reading my posting above, I don't want to convey to you or to others who will be reading this thread in the future, the wrong impression: Panarea is an excellent place to stay for near total rest and relaxation in a relatively upscale environment (although the Carasco also meets this requirement), but I personally need greater variety and more things to do and see. The Aeolian Islands are still very rustic (particularly in the off-season), and Lipari Town alone provides a small modicum of small-town look and feel. Travelers who really want the rustic experience would particularly enjoy Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi, Salina and even upscale Panarea. Lipari Island is rustic outside of Lipari Town and Canneto.
Jul 15th, 2002, 01:04 PM
#6
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Thanks for the clarification. Carasco does have an opening, I'm just waiting to hear if it includes air conditioning. I, like you, prefer some activity, so I think this will be the better choice. One additional question; I've noticed that the Naples hydrofoil fares are listed as 65 euros (that's to Panarea). Do you know if that's round trip? It doesn't seems so, but 130 euros round trip seems a bit steep. I guess we could take the high-speed in one direction and the over night in the other. Thoughts? We'll be on the Amalfi coast following the Aeolians.
Jul 15th, 2002, 02:56 PM
#7
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The hydrofoil prices are one way! To Lipari, it's 75 Euros. However, the hydrofoil is twice as fast as the car ferry (though not a fraction as scenic, as you cannot sit or stand outdoors on the hydrofoil as you can on the ferry). By contrast, the ferry is extremely scenic (and fun, as long as the sea conditions are not rough).<BR>I would be very tempted to take the hydrofoil in one direction and the car ferry in the opposite direction (but caveat: read my posting on the quality of the sleeping cabins on the ferry). I would select according to schedule convenience. If you can overlook the shortcomings of the sleeping cabins, the overnight ferry is worth considering. You do also save one night's hotel cost (the cabin is 40 Euros supplement for two, or 30 Euros single). If you decide to take the ferry, the ship Vittore Carpaccio (4.700 tons), which operates three times a week in September, is preferable to the smaller and older Pier della Francesca (2.800 tons) (which operates twice weekly in September). The Carpaccio also has reclining seats (5 Euros), an alternative to a sleeping cabin. The della Francesca has no reclining seats, only cabins and non-reclining lounge seats. Travel time is the same for both ships. You can find the exact departure dates and fares at the SIREMAR website www.siremar.it Sleeping cabins and reclining seats should be reserved. Be aware that there are often summer storms in late August/early September which might affect the departure of the hydrofoil (much less likely the ferry).
Jul 18th, 2002, 09:46 AM
#9
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Thanks, again, for your help. Any advice on booking the ferries (both the hydrofoil and the overnight boat)? I think we'll do the hydorfoil on the way there and the overnight on the way back. I want to be sure we have a reservation, though (particularly for the sleeping compartment).
Jul 18th, 2002, 06:12 PM
#10
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BUT, GAC my burning question is: Were you actually able to sleep on the overnight ferry? I'm a light sleeper and cannot sleep on plans, trains, or automobiles! What do you think my chances would be on the ferry? Should I just plan on the hydrofoil?
Jul 19th, 2002, 07:18 AM
#11
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Answer for MCT: reserving the hydrofoil is less critical than reserving a sleeping cabin on the overnight ferry. In September, there are TWO daily hydrofoils from Naples to the Aeolian Islands, so if the 8:30 hydrofoil is sold out, you could try the one leaving at 14:30. At the beginning of September, you SHOULD be able to find space by buying the ticket one or two days beforehand. You can send an inquiry to the SNAV office in Naples: www.snavali.com <BR>e-mail: [email protected]<BR><BR>The ferry is a different story. In September, there are five weekly ferries. If you want a cabin for certain, you will need to reserve and purchase the ticket in advance. You can purchase directly from SIREMAR (go to their web site www.siremar.it for contact information), or from a travel agency such as www.bookingitalia.it The latter will sell you the ticket and make the reservation for a service charge of 15 Euros per request (fee is waived if you also make hotel reservations through them). Of course, once you've bought the ticket, it will be difficult to change the departure date, and there are cancellation penalties described on the website noted above. You could take a chance and make the reservation in Naples or in Lipari, several days beforehand. Bear in mind that the Pier della Francesca has only 77, and the larger Vittore Carpaccio, 118, cabins. If cabins are sold out (often the case during the summer), you could try to reserve a reclining seat (ONLY on the Carpaccio). Otherwise, you're stuck with non-reclining lounge seats which are uncomfortable for sleeping.<BR><BR>Answer for Dayle: I'm also a light sleeper, and I truthfully did not sleep much in the cabin of the Pier della Francesca. What kept me awake was the vibration coming from the ship's engines, which would rattle through the cabin (the journey was otherwise so smooth that one would forget being on water). The cost of the passage and the cabin was nearly the same as that of the hydrofoil. It's a close call on which one to take, ferry or hydrofoil. Were I to do it again, I would probably reserve a reclining seat on the larger ferry, the Carpaccio, since the overnight leg (Naples to Stromboli), is only 8 hours, or the equivalent of a transatlantic flight. The cabin might also be very small and warm for two adults. One of the SIREMAR workers told me that the interior of the Carpaccio (at the time in dry dock in Palermo) was being upgraded and modernized, although another worker told me that only the ship's exterior was being refitted. So I can't comment on the quality of the cabins on the Carpaccio. If you decide to avoid the overnight ferry, I still highly recommend that you take the smaller day-ferry between the islands themselves, as the hydrofoil affords no opportunity to take photos or videos, or admire the beautiful scenery.
BR><BR>www.pictures.isole-eolie.com<BR>www.go.to/maj<BR>www.eolieclub.it<BR><BR>Steve
Jul 23rd, 2002, 01:14 PM
#16
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I stayed at the Hotel Cincotta on Panarea, couldn't afford the Raya, which is the creme de la creme on Panarea, but we walked up there and I can assure you it's stunning. I loved every moment of my two days on that island and wished we had more time, but it's an expensive island, so we could only afford two days. It's a lovely place to rejuvenate, and it's easy to swim there. Your hotel has a pool or you can walk down the hill and jump into crystal clear water. It's a great place to be private and eat gourmet food and be amazed by fabulous scenery and take incredible walks or hired boats to uncrowded beaches. There are no cars, only the little moto-apes (three wheeled trucks to take your luggage up the hill), so you don't hear all the traffic noise you might hear on other islands. <BR>I would not have wanted to stay on Lipari, I'm not into the chi-chi yacht set, where everyone sits around all dressed to the nines and has champagne on their boats in the harbor while listening to pounding Europop played very loud. I was visiting family for two weeks and planned this to get AWAY and be alone with my husband for a couple of days. You may be interested in something completely different.<BR>But it seems very easy to take day trips from there.
Jul 23rd, 2002, 01:30 PM
#17
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I suppose that time of year may determine the presence or absence of the "chi chi yacht set" along the shores of Lipari Island. When I was there in late May, I did not see any such activity. I did, however, notice a beautiful large yacht moored right off the harbor of Panrea Island! Panarea obviously offers a different set of variables than does Lipari. If one really wanted to "get away and be alone", I would recommend Alicudi and Filicudi over Panarea, which can get crowded in July and August. In any case, each of the Aeolian Islands offers unique beauty, and choosing to stay overnight in any of them would not be a mistake.
Jul 23rd, 2002, 03:00 PM
#18
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That's true, the timing is very important. I was in the Aeolians in high season, late July or August, I don't recall, hence the hectic impression of Lipari. I'm sure it was at its most crowded with those wealthy people on yachts. <BR>But Panarea was not like that at all. This was perhaps 5 years ago, so things may have gotten more hectic there, too.
