My husband and I are planning a 9 day trip through Croatia, driving from Zagreb to Dbv. We like to explore the countryside more than lie on the beach. We have 2 questions:

1. How long should we plan to visit Istria? We are going to stay in Rovinj and do day trips to Pula, Porec etc. Is 2 days enough time or should we take 3 days?

This leads to the second question:

2. We may be pressed for time (see question #1) at the end of our trip. We are driving from Split to Dbv on a Tuesday and are flying from Dbv to Zagreb on Thursday night. Should we spend Wednesday in Dubrovnik or take a day trip to Montenegro (and see less of Dbv)?

You don`t have time to go to Montenegro. Stick with seeing Dub.

Dear Hat,

I would spend a minimum of 3 days in Istria, with Rovinj as the perfect place to rest your bags, take day trips from, and have wonderful dinners in. Regarding Dubrovnik, skip a day trip to Montenegro, and spend at least 2 days in this beautiful city. You'll need at least several hours of a morning to walk the walls, and another day to see everything else. Have fun!

When are you going? Are you planning to drive Zagreb to Istria to Split to Dubrovnik?

I've never been to Croatia. Going for first time in June. Since Dubrovnik is at the end of our trip, I have already prepared myself for the possibility that we may be "exhuasted" and finally moving at a slower pace. If that happens, I am ready to save Montenegro for another time. Maybe just leave your options open, and take a couple of phone numbers for a private driver (see tcreaths posts) if you decide when you're there that you want to do it.

I'm disappointed to not be going to Istria, but hope to make a fall trip next year -- maybe do a cycle tour (NYTimes article...)

Good luck with your planning!

Lucky you! Croatia is utterly fantastic.

1. With only 9 days you are sort of limited. However, I would definitely spend at least 3 in Istria. Other than Dubrovnik Istria was our favourite place - the tiny little hill villages were amazing.

2. I am not sure how long you are spending in Split but we found a couple of hours to be enough. We much preferred Trogir.

Always assume that you are going to return! Plitvice Lakes is a must see as well but likely will not happen on this short trip.

Enjoy!

Montenegro is a favorite of mine, and I usually highly suggest a visit there, but given your time frame I would stay in Dubrovnik. Its beautiful and amazing in so many ways, and a few days there would be perfect, especially at the end of your trip.

I can't comment on Istria since we didn't make it up there, but you will absolutely fall in love with Croatia like the rest of us!

Tracy

Thank you everyone for your input. We are actually going at the end of May (last minute travellers) and we are planning on driving from Zagreb to Istria,Plitvice, Split/Hvar, and Dubrovnik. I know this is a lot to do in only 9 days so, with your input, we will probably leave Montenegro for an other trip. Any last thoughts?

So pleased to hear that you are driving - I would not do it any other way. If I beg and plead can I come along?

Croatia will transfix you, I am sure. Don't forget to write us a trip report within 24 hours of your return!! ;-)

Hat,
That’s a lot in 9 days…we did exactly the same thing last year (minus your stop in Split) in 14 days. It was relaxing and we loved it.

Having said that, if you really want to do all that you listed, I would suggest 3 nights in Istria (if you want to see Rovinj, Pula, Porec and the hill towns), 1 night in Plitvice, 2 in Hvar, 2 in Dubrovnik. Not sure if your 9 days include the days you fly in/out, if they are actually 9 days/9 nights or 9 days/8 nights….

If you are flying from the States, you’ll be jet lagged – can’t drive the same day to Rovinj. And with 9 days only, definitely skip Montenegro this time.

Are you taking the car on Hvar? We did, and it was a good idea – gave us more flexibility. Make sure you know the car ferry schedule. http://www.jadrolinija.hr/default.aspx?lang=2
You do not need a car in Dubrovnik. Good luck planning.

You actually couldn't do this without a car. If it is 8 or 9 nights makes a big difference.
Check out the drive times at viamichelin.
I guess you will head to Istria first, so are you planning on visiting Plitvice from Split (otherwise you backtrack, I don't knowwhich is better).
Maybe you could take the overnight ferry from Rijeka to Split to save time? Check the ferry schedule at the link posted above.
Good luck--You'll love Croatia!

I have been to western Croatia 4 times in the last year and here is a list of restaurants that really impressed me.

Toklarija > is in Sovinjsko Polje,3 miles south of Buzet.Tel.00385 52 663031

Zigante > is in Livade,2 miles north of Motovun.Tel.00385 52 664302

Le Mandrac > is in Volosko harbour, Opatija.Tel.00385 51 701357

Enjoy!

I rechecked my itinerary, and we actually have 10 full days and nights plus 2 travel days for a total of 12 days away! We are planning to go to Plitvice from Istria even though it is backtracking but we couldn't figure out a faster route. Any thoughts?

With your suggestions, we have decided to stay for a night in Trojir and not Split and we were considering taking the car to Hvar, so thank you, xyz99, for your suggestion. Although we have the ferry web site, we have had trouble accessing it and finding the schedule for the day we are interested in so we were wondering if we can just show up the night before and make arrangements? Any comments?

Thank you so much DansDelight for the restaurant suggestions as this is so last minute, we haven't even began to consider eating!!

Thank you everyone for all of the wonderful advice. I have found it so helpful and encouraging, and it has certainly made us feel a little more confident regarding our last minute and obviously very ambitious trip!!

Hat,
Last year we could not make any advanced reservations for the car ferry; I don’t know if things changed or not. Anyway, if you get to the ferry about 2 hrs prior to departure, you should not have any problem.

10 full days will give you enough time to do what you planned. Plitvice after Istria is ok, I don’t see any better way of doing it. How are you planning on getting from Hvar to Dubrovnik? We took the car ferry from Stari Grad to Korkula, then Korkula to Orebic. From there we drove to Dubrovnik through the Peljesac peninsula.

In Dubrovnik, make sure you have a drink at Buza Bar. In Hvar, don’t miss the fortress. The views form there are fantastic. In Rovinj, be on the pier at sunset time. When in Plitvice, have dinner at Licka Kuca (sp?) – the restaurant is right next to one of the park entances. Croatia is wonderful.

Thanks again, xyz99. We were just going to retrace our steps and take the ferry back to Split from Hvar, but your route sounds more interesting. Is it one ferry to Orebic or 2? Did you get off in Korkula and spend time there? How long did this route take, including the driving time to Dubrovnik? I am trying to tighten up the trip because of time restraints, but I really do want to experience as much as possible.

Hat,
The car ferry terminal on the island of Hvar is in Stari Grad. We stayed in Hvar, and I think Stari Grad is about 30-40 min away.
We took 2 ferries to Orebic – first to Korkula, but did not spend any time there (we did not know how long the rest of the drive would be). Orebic is on the Island of Korkula, about 20 min away from Korkula town. The ferry from Orebic to mainland runs every ½ hr and it lasts about 20 min or so.

We stopped someway on the road for lunch – just followed signs for “Domestic Food” and ended up somewhere, in a small village, where the lady of the house had a couple of tables in the back yard, and prepared lunch for us and another German couple sitting at the other table. Had a great tomato salad (fresh from the garden), crusty bread and delicious sage veal medallions. The sage was picked right then from the garden – definitely one of the best meals we had in Croatia.
We arrived in Dubrovnik around 5 pm. Navigating in Dubrovnik is not that easy – the old town is pedestrian only, and the rest of the towns has a lot of one-way only streets. Get good directions to where you’re staying or carry a cell phone (we did not have either).
Good luck planning.

I agree with DansDelight , my favorite is Le Mandrac ( www.lemandrac.com ), but Toklarija and Zigante are exellent reataurants too.

Just got back from Croatia. The road from Split to Dubrovnik is under construction. It is one lane, so the traffic is unbelievable!! It took 9 hours from Split (where the super highway ends) to Dubrovnik. Take the ferry if you possibly can.

We did a lot in 7 days - about the same as you're doing in 12. It was amazing!! I personally loved Split, loved Pula - a day trip is fine - but we were amazed by the ampitheatre and other 1st century ruins. Unfortunately it poured rain in Dubrovnik, but still had a blast.

Oh Boy, that is bad news for us about the road from Split to Dubrovnik. We are planning to drive this route on June 1st.

Is there any hope that this project might be finished by this time?

Thanks for posting about this.
Laurie

We just returned from the Balkans. Definitely choose DBV rather than Montenegro. Be aware, there is construction on the road from Split which causes delays - leave early. You will want to spend at least a day wandering around the Old City in DBV - it's magnificent. Driving takes longer than it appears on the map, so Montegegro would be a tough day trip, anyway. Do you know where you'll stay in DBV?

About the road construction:

We're driving from Orebic on Peljesic Peninsula down to Dubrovnik. How much construction will we run into?

Any suggestions, comments?