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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 08:20 AM
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question abt "perched villages" in France

We've recently returned from spending some days in the Nice area, with side trips to St Paul de Vence, Vence, and Eze. We loved those perched villages (not crazy abt all the shops, but I suppose that's inevitable). I'm in the early stages of planning a trip to Provence/Dordogne for next year, and I'm wondering whether the perched villages in that area are similar to, or quite different from the perched villages above the Cote d'Azur. Of course, each village is different from every other, but St Paul and Eze, e.g., did have a certain similarity. I'm wondering whether the villages in the Provence area will remind me of those in Cote d'Azur or will in fact be very different.
Also: I suspect that each person has his/her favorites? Or are there certain villages that more or less everyone thinks are the most lovely and "not to be missed"?
Thank you very much.
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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 08:47 AM
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Hi P,

The architecture of the Dordogne is quite different from that of Provence.

You might find my trip report helpful:

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34676645

Photos at http://tinyurl.com/sjch4



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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 08:52 AM
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There are more of the sameness in gift shops and too many of them but that comes with the territory of being the most popular place to visit. But that should not deter you to see how unique, (physically) they are
In the Dordogne and Western France I saw more crafts, like leather and art studios.
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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 08:53 AM
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There should be a period after are. First statement was about Provence.
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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 06:46 PM
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Bookmark, so I can respond within the next few days. I'm a little bit busy now.

Stu Dudley
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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 06:59 PM
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St Cirq Lapopie -- pretty perched village

La Roque-Gageac -- not on a peak, but along the river but with a similar feel.

Cordes-sur-Ciel -- delightful town.

Rocamadour -- cliff village
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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 07:05 PM
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Patrick, we loved staying in St Cirq Lapopie and in Cordes at the top of the main street , dining under chestnut trees were special. Rocamadour and LaRoche-Gageac were worth the visit.
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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 07:23 PM
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Collanges sur Rouge-maybe not so perched as the others, but equally interesting
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Old Oct 7th, 2007, 07:33 PM
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as is St Guilhem-le-désert.
So many beautiful places, so little time
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 08:52 AM
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We've probably visited over 70 small medieval villages (perched or not) on the Cote d'Azur, Provence, Lot, and the Dordogne. I like to mix the "touristy" ones (St Paul, Eze, Gordes, Roussillon, Les Baux, Rocamadour, St Cirq Lapopie, Domme), in with the more un-touristy villages that may have no commerce at all and are usually a little more remote (Simiane la Rotunde, Oppedette, St Didier, St Montan, Brantes, Caromb, Seguret in Provence; Daglan, plus dozens of others in Lot/Dordogne region). I often find that if I'm in a toursity village with lots of shops (like St Paul & Rocamadour) I have a tendency to keep my eyes on the shop windows instead of admiring the pretty architecture. My wife & I always remind each other to "look up" to the first floor (second in US) so that we keep focused on the architecture and not the shops. I actually prefer Sarlat on a Sunday, Monday or in the late evening when many shops close and all you have to look at are the fabulous buildings in town. We arrived at Rocamadour at about 9AM before the stores opened & draged out the postcard stands.

I would not advise visiting 3 touristy & crowded villages on the same day - 2 is the max for me. Eze, St Paul, & Vence would be to much for me as would Domme, Sarlat, and Les Eyzies (latter is not that interesting - except lots of museums & other sites are close to it).

Stu Dudley
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 09:00 AM
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Poss:

In terms of Provence, there are certainly shops and the like at most of the perched villages, but we found that the villages outside of Gordes were less touristy than Eze/St. Paul. We particularly liked Oppiede le Vieux which has not been fully restored and Roussillon, because it's made of ochre and is just different. I have a trip report on all the ones we visited if you want more detail.

JES
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 09:13 AM
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Dordogne is known for its 'bastides' or fortified crag-top villages, which uniquely feature straight grids of streets i believe extant from Roman days. Beynac and La Roque Bageac are two famous ones near Sarlat
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 09:32 AM
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Stu, as usual, makes some great points. But I'd emphasize the idea of staying overnight in some of your favorites. Cordes was a zoo when we got there, but after dinner walking the streets was wonderful. Sarlat is a great base -- IF you leave for much of the day when it is jammed with daytrippers.
But, of course, I suppose that same theory is true of almost all "magical" but popular spots.
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 09:35 AM
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Also, in some Perché villages, cars are not allowed or have very limited spaces and the walk up can be difficult for the elderly.
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 11:48 AM
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Try the untouristy perched villages in the Drôme region, which is essentially far northern Provence. Our favorite is Le Poët-Laval, once a stronghold of the Knights of Malta. There are a number of other perched villages in the same general area, some deserted, some still lived in.
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 04:02 PM
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What a fantastic array of wonderful detail! I thank you all so much, and have made all sorts of notes so that I can pursue each suggestion.
JEStraveler: thanks, too, for your terrific honeymoon report-- very helpful indeed.
I really am getting dizzy trying to decide among all the options. We're in our late 70's, and I suspect this'll be our one and only trip to Provence and surrounds, so I'm hoping to make intelligent choices about where to stay and what to try to see.
Am presently thinking about spending about 10 days in the "area," maybe splitting the time between 2 accommodations. Nowhere close to deciding anything-- but you're all sure being helpful.
I hope the suggestions keep coming; they are mightily appreciated.
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Old Oct 10th, 2007, 06:36 PM
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If you decide to visit the Drôme, stay in le Poët-Laval at Les Hospitaliers, a charming small inn built out of the ancient stone. Yvon Morin, who little by little restored thevillage, was an art dealer in Paris who eventually settled in Provence, and the hotel has some nice pieces of sculpture and good paintings. It's very peaceful, and the pretty little town of Dieulefit is just 10 minutes away. The htoel's restaurant is excellent; Morin's son is the chef.
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Old Oct 10th, 2007, 06:38 PM
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I agree, the restaurant was a treat but underhill, it's a bit of a walk up if they have walking problems.
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Old Oct 10th, 2007, 06:45 PM
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ira:
your photos are beautiful.
i was surprised to see the town of Conques. I went there with my 2 daughters in 1998 and it was one of the nicest small towns we've been to.
We stayed at a lovely B&B (can't remember the name now) and went to a lovely music recital at the church one evening.
your photos bring back wonderful memories.
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Old Oct 11th, 2007, 01:00 AM
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The village of Tourtour in the Upper Var is referred to as a village in the sky of Provence and one of the so-called "Plus Beaux Villages de France". Very good restaurant there called La Table.

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