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¡QUE VIVA VALENCIA! Wandering and Eating amidst the Orange Blossoms

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¡QUE VIVA VALENCIA! Wandering and Eating amidst the Orange Blossoms

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Old Mar 25th, 2011, 02:52 PM
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Lucky me learned hw to make those calamar and bacon tidbits as well as the grilled rice. ( But i have never done them myself at home).. You have now tempted me to try to put my classes to good use.

If anyone is ever in Valencia and want to try one of those cooking classes.. , look at www.foodandfun.es to see who is on when you are here. It is a bargain at 35/50 or 60E depending on the chef and menu.

Raul's classes are always 60E, but we eat everything we make, plus they are very generous with the wine. Great fun. (Interpreter in English if notified ahead of time), otherwise the classes are in Spanish, but very easy to follow, I think, even if you are not fluent.

Still loving the report and so glad you enjoyed your dinner there. Looking forward to Barcelona.
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Old Mar 25th, 2011, 04:12 PM
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P.S The calamari are cut into about 8 thin strips about the length of a very long finger. then wrapped tightly with a very FINE slice of fatty iberian bacon like you would asparagus.. put on the hot slightly oiled "plancha" flatgrill.. the calamari curl up so attractively, a really beautiful sight.
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Old Mar 26th, 2011, 02:22 AM
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Linda: I am so glad you mentioned the calamar(i) dish.

Can you tell me the translation of "fardos" de calamar? Are those the strips?

Those cooking classes are a great deal. A class with Raul Aleixandre for 60 euro? I read all those threads recommending tourist-oriented cooking classes in Tuscany and Sorrento that cost about 200 euro and up for a few hours.. That alone will make me want to return to Valencia!



I did not mention one of the funniest things about that meal at Ca'Sento. Our dining neighbors on that evening were a pair of young Japanese guys who were taking about 20 photos of each dish on the longer tasting menu.

Rather, one of the guys was taking photos, because his friend was fast asleep. We were trying to keep our laughter t ourselves as we watched his head drop lower and lower towards the table. When he got within centimeters of his plate, the friend would nudge him and the head would straighten up. For about a second, before beginning its slow fall towards the plate. This guy left all that lovely food uneaten! We were so tempted to ask the awake friend if we could "share!"

The lovely sommelier, Amanda, told us that she has seen this happen many times before. People arrive, jet lagged, and cannot manage to get through the long, and late, Spanish dinner hour....
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Old Mar 26th, 2011, 06:09 AM
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What a funny story.

Yes, "fardos" could be translated as "bundles".

You know, I was thinking of organizing some intimate cooking class tours in Spain now that I have little other work. Would be fun.

Let me know if you are coming back for sure!
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Old Mar 26th, 2011, 06:23 AM
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>>>With water, wine, and one martini, the bill for this feast totalled a very reasonable 104 euro for two of us.<<<

Wow! Sounds like quite a bargain.
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Old Mar 26th, 2011, 08:59 AM
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Did you share a menu or what? I am also stumped by the price. I thought their tasting menu was near 60E itself.
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Old Mar 26th, 2011, 09:45 AM
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I know--it sounds low for the restaurant. I am sure that the price is correct, but cannot find the actual bill right now...

They accommodated us by letting us have the shortest tasting menu and a shared main course. They offer different tasting menus at different prices.


The copy of the menu they gave us to take home had no prices listed--it just lists the dishes that we had that night. I can't imagine why I cannot find the actual bill, since I save everything (in fact, my luggage was overweight coming home, although they let me slide..)
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Old Mar 26th, 2011, 10:02 AM
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in that case.. could be.. sounds like a fabulous meal. I am truly enjoying your professional report. I am going to try to do the artichokes again as I burned the last ones multi-tasking last week..
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Old Mar 26th, 2011, 11:53 AM
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I am loving this report - my husband booked a week long golf trip for next year near Marbella. I had urged it be guys only (not a golfer myself), but he made it for couples - so I'm turning it into 3 1/2 to 4 weeks of touring in total, "circumnavigating" Spain! Valencia is now on the list thanks to your report, and just yesterday I received my Amazon order: The New Spanish Table! ekscrunchy is so correct - the information included is amazing, it's essentially a geographic guide to Spain, and the recipes are beautifully spelled out. I highly recommend it as a source for anyone traveling to Spain. Now, I'm trying to find baby artichokes here Richmond, VA - could be difficult....
Thanks again for this amazing report ~ I'm hoping Linda can help us with info as I continue planning!
BTW, I had already decided your luggage would be overweight, when you mentioned the kilo of paella rice for your friend! You are obviously a lovely and generous person!
Thanks for this continued enjoyment -
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 02:46 AM
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JO Ann I am so glad that you bought the book, The New Spanish Table. I hope that you will enjoy many meals from it in the future! In Spain and Italy I have seen fresh artichokes, already cleaned, for sale at markets. Too bad we have nothing of the sort here in the US. Only recently has a few local growers started to sell artichokes at the farmer's market. But the price (usually $4.99 per pound for small ones) is kind of steep, and certainly VERY steep as compared to Spain!


Here is the last bit about Valencia:






The next morning, we enjoyed another in-room breakfast with coffee supplied by the hotel, before setting out by taxi for the gleaming new Joaquin Sorolla station, named after the impressionist artist and native son, Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida.

The taxi from the hotel to the high-speed-train station cost 12 euro including charge for baggage, and the ride took us through parts of the city that we had not seen before. Valencia is very spread out! The station itself is a joy. Everything is on the same level, including the tracks, so there is no need to schlep heavy bags up and down steps or even escalators. There are several shops inside, including one specializing in the food products of Valencia, and sparkling rest rooms. Signage is prominent.


http://www.adif.es/en_US/infraestruc...n_000382.shtml






Shortly before our scheduled 11am departure, we joined the short security line and entered the track area, quickly finding our train. My friend had been able to secure discount RENFE tickets online, so we paid about 18 euro each for the three-hour ride along the coast to Barcelona Sants station.


Like the train I had taken the month before, from Madrid to Granada, this one was fast, clean, and comfortable in second class. We rode along the sea for much of the route, and also passed through Tarragona and Sitges. I hope that many more Spanish train rides are in my future! We arrived in Barcelona right on time, shortly after 2pm, and so began the next chapter of our Spanish adventure.
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 05:23 AM
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Ekscrunchy:
Wow!!! what a report!!!!,now,waiting for Barcelona,a city we visited and enjoyed in 2010!!!; I bet you will tell us some good things about Boqueria market.
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Old Apr 14th, 2012, 09:10 AM
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hi Eks, what a wonderful report! I missed it the first time around and just found it while researching Valencia. I now go read the Barcelona TR....after placing an order for The New Spanish Table from Amazon.
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Old Apr 15th, 2012, 03:28 AM
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Hola, Marigross! I'm glad you found this report interesting. I've been following along on your relocation thread (I've dreamed of having a place in Spain ever since I was a kid; I can dream right!?) and will be watching as you ramble around looking for that perfect place! Suerte!
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Old Apr 15th, 2012, 04:38 PM
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Well, to be honest it is 75% dream and 25% plan right now...much better than the 100% dream it was 5 years ago !

My itinerary for September right now has 3 nights in Valencia but I'm really wanting to get in at least 1 one more, I have a feeling that Valencia might be 'IT'. DH really wants to check out Málaga so that is consuming a lot of precious vacation days.
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 04:31 AM
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Hi eck,

thanks for linking this for me. with less than 4 weeks to go before we finally get to go to Valencia [which I see from the above I started to think about after I read this thread back in 2014] it's nice to see that lots of the work has been done for me.

if we wanted to eat at Ca' Sento, which looks terrific for a special meal, I see that they don't take e-mail reservations - how far in advance did you make yours? also, looking at the website, do they still do the tasting menus? My inferior spanish can't find anything that looks like one. is there anywhere else that does a similar thing?

anyway, back to the trip planning!
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 12:42 PM
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Ann: I am so pleased for you that you will be in Valencia. We were able to get reservations a day in advance. But if I am not mistaken, Ca Sento has closed. But it looks as if Chef Aleixandre has this new place, which takes reservations

But I also found that Chef Aleixandre is associated with this place….they take reservations by phone but also list an e-mail address.


http://www.534-valencia.com/


Let's see if Lincasanova, a Valencia resident, knows more…..
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 12:51 PM
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Oscar Torrijos ( also excellent chef) has taken that restaurant over I THINK unless raúl also has something to do with it.

Raúl Aleixandre has another one

http://www.trencadish-valencia.com

P. S: The Valencia market now also has some specialty stands for oysters, olive oils, tapas and other things that really make it way over the top of any market around.
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 12:58 PM
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534 looks interesting, eck - they seem to do a menu for €27, and €30 though I couldn't find out what the difference was. as for Ca Sento, they are still showing a "carta" but no prices but also opening times and contact details.

probably my spanish isn't good enough to work it all out. [the italian helps some of the time but not so much with the complicated stuff!]
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 10:32 PM
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Ca'Sento will be moving to the port area where the America´s Cup was held. I do to think it has not opened nor begun building or renovating space as it was just announced at beginning of April. I will keep my eyes open for more news. Where are you seeing a menu for 27E?
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 11:07 PM
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Yummy yummy trip report, great to have some mouth watering descriptions of the meals taken. Many thanks.
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