Puglia Without a Car - Please Help!

Old Jan 20th, 2021, 10:44 PM
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I personally wouldn't find a holiday enjoyable if I had to take precautions such as wear a mask, keep my distance from others, and worry about passing on the virus to others because they haven't yet been vaccinated. If that were the case - and it seems quite likely that it will - then I would defer. Whether it's train or plane is a separate question. I wouldn't feel safe in either until the virus is under control. I just hope it doesn't take too long before we can all travel safely again.
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Old Jan 20th, 2021, 11:06 PM
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Thanks for posting your questions. Travel by car may soon be out of the question for us and there are still a few places we would like to visit, if possible, Puglia being one.
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Old Jan 21st, 2021, 03:42 AM
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Ger, omg, thank you for steering me to your TR - don't know how I missed it when I was scouring Fodors for them. I just read the whole thing and I need time to digest the information, but it's really making me start to rethink our transportation in the region. Mainly because my husband who's in his late 70's has some mobility issues following spinal surgery a few years ago. He can walk, but it's slow and I just don't see us walking long distances uphill, etc. especially with luggage!

So...renting a car isn't out of the question. In most towns, we'd have to use parking outside of the ZTL and walk in, but I think that's doable. Or hire transportation/tour companies to drive us from place to place? I need to do some more research, obviously.

You may have seen that my thought at this moment is to split our stay between Lecce and the northern part of Puglia. At the moment I'm thinking a few nights with Martina Franca as our base in the north. Thoughts, Ger or anyone? We love the Passeggiata which seems to be pretty strong there and it's a little larger than some of the other surrounding towns. I was also interested in your thoughts about Monopoli...

Anyway, lots to consider, but there's time. Thanks again for putting your TR on my radar!

Ellen

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Old Jan 21st, 2021, 03:57 AM
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Traveler Nick, interesting to read that you question whether Italy will be "open" next fall. Ugh! I agree with dreamon that if we have to wear masks and socially distance, we'll defer the trip. My optimistic view, although maybe naive, is that Europe will do everything within its power to open up for the tourist Euros. I guess time will tell, but at least the research I'm doing now will serve us well even if we have to postpone.
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Old Jan 21st, 2021, 05:05 AM
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Ellen, I've been planning away for a fall UK trip, COVID or not. Whether I'm allowed in or not (my husband and I just got our first COVID shot). Otherwise, I'd just go nuts. The money we're not spending on travel is going into things like a yard fence and a new HVAC unit. My neighbor says, "Isn't is wonderful that you'll get this money back when you sell this house?" And my thoughts are, "Oh great, I'll be leaving this house with a toe tag, but I should be thrilled about the return on our fence." The idea of spending one more year inside doing more home upgrades just isn't doing it for me.

There is ALWAYS a driver to be found. ALWAYS. Last spring's trip I had to cancel (sniff) involved four different days of private hire in areas where I was told no such transport existed. Desk clerks at hotels, tourist boards and so on our gold mines of info that can tell you otherwise.

Yes, I've rebooked our trip for next September.

So plan on, my friend!
----------------------------------------------
dreamon--My sister, one year younger than I, did not start taking cycling trips until she turned 63, by which time my husband and I had taken well over 20 trips. She and her husband like to travel with friends (my idea of hell), and for some reason, the friend group decided a cycling trip was their next adventure. She had always thought we were crazy to do that type of travel. She really liked this group of friends, and because she has such an intense case of FOMO, she decided to give it a go. And she finally heard me when I told her, "If you don't feel like hitting the road, just take the day off! Get a taxi from your hotel and hit a shopping area." This particular trip offered e-bikes. She and her husband came back and said, "We totally get it why you enjoyed this."

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Old Jan 21st, 2021, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ellen75005
Traveler Nick, interesting to read that you question whether Italy will be "open" next fall. Ugh! I agree with dreamon that if we have to wear masks and socially distance, we'll defer the trip. My optimistic view, although maybe naive, is that Europe will do everything within its power to ope stn up for the tourist Euros. I guess time will tell, but at least the research I'm doing now will serve us well even if we have to postpone.
I think the current schedule if all goes well I'll get my first short in October. Of course things aren't going well.

November is also the start of cold/flu season. If you think about this year they started locking down in November.
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Old Jan 21st, 2021, 06:58 AM
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TAXIS IN APULIA
Every hotel or restaurant keeper can call a taxi for you. I got never problems with this solution.
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Old Jan 21st, 2021, 11:59 AM
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bilboburgler and alessandra, thanks for the words of encouragement about cycling. The last year has really impacted my mood but I need to get up and get fitter.

My husband says that I am obsessed about travel (and he's right) so the inability to get out and see the world is hugely frustrating. However, knowing that the vaccine is not proven to prevent those who've had the vaccine from passing the virus on to others makes me extremely cautious. It means that people in my chosen destination have to have had an opportunity to fully vaccinate too, before I'd be prepared to visit (and as an Australian, our rate of infection is extremely low - and not by accident). My travel plans for 2020 and 2021 (and possibly beyond) have been shelved but I still continue to dream.
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Old Jan 21st, 2021, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ellen75005
Ger, omg, thank you for steering me to your TR - don't know how I missed it when I was scouring Fodors for them. I just read the whole thing and I need time to digest the information, but it's really making me start to rethink our transportation in the region. Mainly because my husband who's in his late 70's has some mobility issues following spinal surgery a few years ago. He can walk, but it's slow and I just don't see us walking long distances uphill, etc. especially with luggage!

So...renting a car isn't out of the question. In most towns, we'd have to use parking outside of the ZTL and walk in, but I think that's doable. Or hire transportation/tour companies to drive us from place to place? I need to do some more research, obviously.

You may have seen that my thought at this moment is to split our stay between Lecce and the northern part of Puglia. At the moment I'm thinking a few nights with Martina Franca as our base in the north. Thoughts, Ger or anyone? We love the Passeggiata which seems to be pretty strong there and it's a little larger than some of the other surrounding towns. I was also interested in your thoughts about Monopoli...

Anyway, lots to consider, but there's time. Thanks again for putting your TR on my radar!

Ellen
HI Ellen, I think if your husband has mobility issues you'd be better off renting a car, as long as one of you is comfortable driving in a different place. We had a car for our trip in 2014 and driving there was really pretty easy. We flew from Canada to Rome, went directly to the domestic terminal and got a flight to Brindisi which is a tad closer to Lecce. It is a small airport and it was easy collecting the car and accessing the highway for Lecce. We stayed at a BandB just on the outskirts of Lecce, with free parking, and it was a 1 km flat easy walk into the centre. Had 5 nights there (hotel was called Five Rooms BandB and was excellent, but not sure if it still exists) and used most of the days to drive to and explore towns to the south on the Salento peninsula and then walked into Lecce to explore and eat every night. The passegiata there is great and they are known for yummy ice cream shops which also sell chocolates and candy. You may be able to find a place closer to the centre which has parking or would give you instructions for a parking garage nearby.

I found this interesting blog with lots of good info on Puglia: neverendingvoyage.com

We then spent 5 nights in the Valle d'stria (where Martina Franca and Alberobello are, amongst other great little towns). We stayed at the Masseria Cervarolo not far from Ostuni and loved it. We did day trips from here and explored all the towns plus a day in Matera. I really wish we'd had more time so we could have spent a couple of days at this place just relaxing.

You could, of course use a shuttle from Brindisi to Lecce and if you just wanted to stay in Lecce maybe don't need a car, but to explore other towns and especially if you want to stay in Martina Franca I think a car would be a good bet. A couple of the towns, Locorondo and Martina Franca spring to mind are kind of on the top of hills (the old centres) and I will ask my husband to be sure but am pretty sure we drove in and parked without issues with ZTL.
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Old Jan 24th, 2021, 02:54 AM
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Well, you've all given us a lot to consider! dreamon, yes I think my husband would be fine driving in Puglia. He's driven in Europe before without any issues. I had also considered the Brindisi airport which looks very manageable. We're actually going to spend a few days in Naples before we go to Puglia, so we have the option of driving, training or flying to Puglia from there. And we'll probably fly out of Brindisi to Catania. I looked at the Five Rooms B&B and it looks absolutely beautiful! Every site I found said to contact it for information, so I'll do that soon.

It's interesting how different this part of Italy is from the north.

Neckervd, good to know that if we did need a taxi, one could be called. Also, some of you have given me names of tour/transportation companies which could also provide solutions. So much to research, but fortunately, I love doing it!

On a positive note, we've both received our first dose of vaccine this weekend. We feel very fortunate knowing that it's so hard to come by. Still keeping my fingers crossed that by fall Europe will be able to welcome visitors.

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Old Jan 24th, 2021, 06:47 AM
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There are direct intercity buses between Naples and Bari. They run about 4times daily and the journey takes less than 4 hrs. OW fare around 30 EUR/pax.
https://www.marinobus.it/
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Old Jan 25th, 2021, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by neckervd
There are direct intercity buses between Naples and Bari. They run about 4times daily and the journey takes less than 4 hrs. OW fare around 30 EUR/pax.
https://www.marinobus.it/
Neckervd, I looked at the bus and it looks like a viable option. It or the train would be much less hassle than flying, especially with checked luggage which both my husband and I will have. I think the bus goes to Brindisi, too, which is a little closer to Lecce. Thanks for the info; I've bookmarked it.
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Old Jan 25th, 2021, 04:52 AM
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I'm of the age where walking about and going to the loo on the train superseeds the joys of a four hour bus journey. Just a wee thought. plus the views are better on the train.
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Old Jan 26th, 2021, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bilboburgler
I'm of the age where walking about and going to the loo on the train superseeds the joys of a four hour bus journey. Just a wee thought. plus the views are better on the train.
Haha, bilboburgler, I hear you! We discussed the options yesterday and at this moment, we're leaning toward the train. We do love Italian (and most all European) trains. Now I just have to figure out whether we start out in Lecce or in the Itria Valley and then decide which town to stay in in addition to Lecce. So many decisions left, but so fun to plan!
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Old Jan 26th, 2021, 08:17 AM
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Depending on what you are doing while in Lecce, it might make sense to get the car before or after Lecce. Driving into and out of Lecce was the only remotely difficult driving we did in Puglia, but it was a necessity for us. There are parking garages outside the ztl, plus of course ask your accommodations.
One point in favor of just bring the car from Naples (not from within the city) is that you can stop at Matera. If that is in your plans, I would consider just driving.
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Old Jan 26th, 2021, 08:48 AM
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Naples - Lecce by train takes 5 1/2 hrs; change at Caserta.
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Old Jan 26th, 2021, 03:46 PM
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We flew on Volotea from Bari to Palermo, 50 minutes. Airline reminded us of Southwest. They also flew to Catania. On time, inexpensive, friendly staff.

Last edited by HappyTrvlr; Jan 26th, 2021 at 03:49 PM.
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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 03:54 AM
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Thank you, HappyTrvlr, for introducing me to Volotea; I had never heard of it and it doesn't come up on Kayak. This is one of the many reasons that Fodor is so valuable!

I reserved a B&B in Martina Franca yesterday; La Neviera dell'Arco. https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/la-...l-39-arco.html. I wasn't seeing anything that checked all the boxes - including being in the center of town - until this, so I grabbed it. Got a nice message from its owner. I have to start working on Sicily soon...

raincitygirl, FiveRoomsB&B in Lecce looks beautiful also. I'll reach out to them if they're still open.

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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ellen75005
Thank you, HappyTrvlr, for introducing me to Volotea; I had never heard of it and it doesn't come up on Kayak. This is one of the many reasons that Fodor is so valuable!

I reserved a B&B in Martina Franca yesterday; La Neviera dell'Arco. https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/la-...l-39-arco.html. I wasn't seeing anything that checked all the boxes - including being in the center of town - until this, so I grabbed it. Got a nice message from its owner. I have to start working on Sicily soon...

raincitygirl, FiveRoomsB&B in Lecce looks beautiful also. I'll reach out to them if they're still open.
I hope they are open, it was really a lovely place to stay. Very helpful people, good breakfast included, free parking, nice outdoor space to sit outside the room, plus indoor common space was nice. It wasn't really hard to find from the airport in Brindisi since it's in the newer part of Lecce on the outskirts, and as I said, a flat easy walk into the centre.
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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 09:13 AM
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Ok, this is TOTALLY off the wall, Ellen, but I always find pre-reading to be the most important part of the anticipation of travel. COVID mutants are driving me to distraction as I am sure they are doing to you. I hope my short reading list helps you get a feel of Puglia/Southern Italy.

Here is what I read other than tour books before our Puglia trip:

"Christ Stopped at Eboli" by Carlo Levy
“Seasons in Basilicata” by David Yeardon
"Casa Rosa" by Francesca Marciano

I think there was another I was reading at the time from an American married to a woman from Puglia—it discussed their culture clash—but I can’t find a record of it.

My other BIG recommendation because you are going on to Sicily is the “Gone With the Wind” of Italy: “The Leopard”, set in the Garibaldi era. I can’t believe I did not read it a few days ago (I was an English major!). I had been watching Scorsese’s Fran Liebowitz interview series, “Pretend It’s a City”, and she mentions seeing the film “The Leopard” recently where the entire audience is made up of film directors.

I had never heard of it. I Googled it and read the fascinating story of a great novel I had never read and a great movie that had been chopped to bits by American studio editors. Now that the movie has been restored to 3/4s of its full length and there are no longer any English subtitles, we can appreciate the sumptuous filming, soundtrack and performances, particularly by Burt Lancaster.

It took me two sittings to watch the complete film because I’d say it’s tedious in places. However, now I have picked up the book. Worth it!
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