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Puglia itinerary--2 weeks

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Jan 12th, 2016, 07:11 PM
  #1
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Puglia itinerary--2 weeks

I am working out our itinerary for mid May and have come up with the following ideas:
2 nights Trani (arrive in Bari late afternoon, get car and drive to Trani)
3 nights Ostuni (2?)
3 nights Lecce (4?)
2 nights Galipoli
2 nights Matera (drive to airport from there--flight is at noon)

Does the number of nights in each place seem reasonable? Thought we would tour Trani for a day and then see Polignano a Mare or Grotte di Castellana on the way to Ostuni. From Ostuni, we could tour Alberobello, Locorotundo and Martina Franca. We could stay in Lecce a few days and tour some of the area from there and then drive to Gallipoli and see areas there before heading to Matera.
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Jan 12th, 2016, 07:55 PM
  #2
 
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It seems quite a generous allocation of time in each spot.

Some of these places are quire close together - eg Lecce and Gallipoli. You might consider a base between the two so you have a longer stay and are free to organize your day trips as the weather and your mood dictate.

I've done both Lecce and Gallipoli as day trips from tiny Galatone.

I'd encourage you to reserve at least a day for the Gargano peninsula.

Of the places you plan to visit, Matera, Gallipoli and Lecce were my 1st, 2nd and 3rd faves.

You'll find a Puglia trip report if you click on my name. We were there a second time in Oct 2014 but I did not write a trip report.
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Jan 12th, 2016, 09:06 PM
  #3
kja
 
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"Trani (arrive in Bari late afternoon, get car and drive to Trani)"

If there is ANY chance that you will experience jet lag, then please do NOT pick up your rental upon arrival! One consequence of jet lag is a substantial increase in microsleep episodes, which are so short that you aren't even aware of them, but they are strongly associated with car accidents. You can't will yourself to not have them, or use caffeine to eliminate them. It doesn't matter how long the drive is -- microsleeps can be less than a second and are almost always less than a minute. And it can take just seconds to set an accident in motion -- one in which not only you, but anyone else on the road, could be injured. Research indicates that driving with jet lag is as bad as driving drunk. Because Trani is an easy train ride from Bari, you could easily wait until you've reached Trani and had a day or two there to recover before renting a car.

I would probably shift a night from somewhere to Matera, but that's just quibbling -- it really depends on what you want to see and when, exactly, you would make your transitions.

Should be a great trip!
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Jan 13th, 2016, 01:08 AM
  #4
 
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I got married in Lecce and I'd knock it back to 3 nights, just because I prefer the towns up on the Murge than those down on the flat.

Don't forget Brindisi for a flight if you are going back to Roma, it might just save you a bit of a drive.

Gravina and Martina Franca are worth a visit. If I went to Gravina I might see if TI can arrange a tour of the cave churches.
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Jan 13th, 2016, 01:53 AM
  #5
 
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Are you flying out of Rome? A noon flight means you likely need to be at the airport at 9am. I wouldn't drive from Matera to catch a flight in Rome the same day...I would stay in Rome.
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Jan 13th, 2016, 02:51 AM
  #6
 
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What is your departure airport? If it is Bari, I would go to Matera first and Trani last. If it is Rome or Naples, then you need to be closer than Matera the night before.

Be prepared for the fact that most towns in Puglia are very dead during the middle of the day, so if often makes sense to time your day trip to the latter part of the afternoon, or spend the night rather than day trip. In mid-May, many of the smaller coastal towns might look like ghost towns all day long.
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Jan 18th, 2016, 12:41 PM
  #7
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Thanks for the advice and suggestions. After thinking things through, I decided that we would:
Arrive in Bari and go to Trani for 2 nights
Stay in Ostuni for 3 nights
Stay in Lecce for 3 nights
Gallipoli 2
Matera 2
Although I would love to see the Gargano area, we decided to forgo it as it is in the opposite direction and we only have 2 weeks. We also decided to stay in both Lecce and Gallipoli rather than somewhere in between as we like to be able to have dinner in the town rather than have to drive every night. Our flights are in and out of Bari so I think we will be okay getting to Bari from Matera for a noon flight.
We are going to take a one day cooking class in Lecce with The Awaiting Table and that looks like it should be fun.
Now I will have to work on what to see, what order and choosing some restaurants. If anyone has restaurant advice, let me know.
The hotels I booked are: San Paolo Al Convento (Trani), Casa D'Autore-Ostuni, Palazzo Rollo (Lecce), Relais Corte Palmieri (Gallipoli) and L'hotel in Pietra (Mattera)
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Jan 18th, 2016, 01:01 PM
  #8
kja
 
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I had the great pleasure of meeting one of the owners of Lecce's Palazzo Rollo while I was there -- wonderful man!
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Jan 18th, 2016, 02:05 PM
  #9
 
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YOU ASKED FOR RESTAURANTSso here are a few:
PLACES WE ATE IN MATERA:
--LE BOTTEGHE -- Piazza San Pietro Barisano -- (Closed Wednesday – Try the local speciality: fusilli mollica e crusco: pasta and fried bread with local sweet peppers (cucina povera) – worth a hike from America to eat!
--LUCANERIE Really yummy regional specialities (delicious antipasti) and wonderful homemade pasta. A bit off the tourist area and well worth a visit.
--Oi Mari Via Fiorentini, 66,+39 0835 346121 -- In Sasso Barisano this is a big convivial cavern styled as a Neopolitan pizzeria with a cheery atmosphere and great pizzas.
--Lunch: Latteria Emanuele Rizzi Via Duni Emanuele 2, (near the Ridola Museum)

LECCE RESTAURANTS
•**Cucina Casareccia: run by two sisters (why the place is also known as “The Aunts”) which is highly recommended for lunch (Via Colonnello Archimede Costadura, 19+390832245178).
• Pasticceria Natale: must try for Lecce’s best gelato and pastries (Via Trinchese 7a)

MONOPOLI:
oRistorante Angelo Sabatelli Aldo Moro N. 27 | Presso Masseria Spina, tel 00 39 080 802396 Stylish, housed within a stunning Masseria tucked away in the commercial/industrial area to the North of Monopoli. The menu is adventurous, contemporary and offers the chef's own interpretation of traditional
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Jan 18th, 2016, 02:06 PM
  #10
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
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YOU ASKED FOR RESTAURANTSso here are a few:
PLACES WE ATE IN MATERA:
--LE BOTTEGHE -- Piazza San Pietro Barisano -- (Closed Wednesday – Try the local speciality: fusilli mollica e crusco: pasta and fried bread with local sweet peppers (cucina povera) – worth a hike from America to eat!
--LUCANERIE Really yummy regional specialities (delicious antipasti) and wonderful homemade pasta. A bit off the tourist area and well worth a visit.
--Oi Mari Via Fiorentini, 66,+39 0835 346121 -- In Sasso Barisano this is a big convivial cavern styled as a Neopolitan pizzeria with a cheery atmosphere and great pizzas.
--Lunch: Latteria Emanuele Rizzi Via Duni Emanuele 2, (near the Ridola Museum)

LECCE RESTAURANTS
•**Cucina Casareccia: run by two sisters (why the place is also known as “The Aunts”) which is highly recommended for lunch (Via Colonnello Archimede Costadura, 19+390832245178).
• Pasticceria Natale: must try for Lecce’s best gelato and pastries (Via Trinchese 7a)

MONOPOLI:
oRistorante Angelo Sabatelli Aldo Moro N. 27 | Presso Masseria Spina, tel 00 39 080 802396 Stylish, housed within a stunning Masseria tucked away in the commercial/industrial area to the North of Monopoli. The menu is adventurous, contemporary and offers the chef's own interpretation of traditional
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Jan 18th, 2016, 04:25 PM
  #11
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
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I am planning for 2 weeks in Puglia/Basilicata, too.
We will be going in September.

1 week in and apartment in Lecce
2 nights Matera
1 night in Trovigno (country side agriturismo with great food)
3 nights in Trani.

2 nights yet unplanned before
2 weeks Lucca and more.

I don't mean to high jack your thread--just encourage others to post restaurants and other suggestions.
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Jan 18th, 2016, 06:38 PM
  #12
 
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Lots of Fodorites in Puglia in September! We'll be there 2.5 weeks and a few days in Rome.

We will be fournights in a masseria near conversano
Six nights in Martina Franca
Three nights outside Gallipoli
For nights trani
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Jan 26th, 2016, 05:41 PM
  #13
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Thanks for the restaurant suggestions losaltos! I will definitely check them out.
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Jan 27th, 2016, 02:26 PM
  #14
 
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We stayed in Alberobello in June. You can rent a Trulli! It was such a quaint town - yes there are tourist shops but there are also boutiques. And you can stay in a Trulli! It was one of the highlights of the trip if you ask my teens.
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Jan 27th, 2016, 04:09 PM
  #15
 
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I can recommend La Torre di Merlino restaurant in Lecce. We sat outside on their very pleasant terrace, the food was delicious and not expensive, the waiter was pleasant and helpful and spoke English and was tolerant of my lousy Italian. Address is : via Giambattista del tufo, 10.

The gelato was very very good at Pasticceria Natale in the centre of town. Address: via Trinchese 7. You can't miss it there always seemed to be lots of customers.
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Jan 27th, 2016, 04:25 PM
  #16
 
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If any of you will be in Locorotondo at lunchtime I can highly recommend this restaurant for lunch: Al Vecchio Arco, via Antonio Bruno 5 in the Centro Storico.

You will see tables outside under the arch in a sort of little side passage, we almost didn't go in but were glad we did. The owner is the waiter and his wife and mother do all the cooking. The food was really tasty and fresh and not expensive. The owner was a bit of a hoot without meaning to be, my husband said we got lunch and a show for the price of lunch. Very worthwhile.

If anyone is still looking for accommodation in Lecce , we absolutely loved Five Rooms B&B. Free parking, big garden area, walk into the centre in 10 or 15 minutes, easy to get out of the city with your car (if you have one) for sight-seeing elsewhere, lovely good sized rooms and bathrooms, fresh modern ambiance, great breakfasts and lovely staff.
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Jan 29th, 2016, 09:03 AM
  #17
 
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We spent time in Puglia last summer based just outside of Ostuni. We rented a trulli which was an incredible experience!
A few highlights:
The beach. Drive to the coast for sure. Lido Stella is a private beach club. It was recommended by a local woman at our Trulli. Not touristy at all which I think is a bonus! You pay a small daily fee. Very friendly, beautiful beach, good food and bar. We went twice it was so good!
Masseria Brancati for a tour of an ancient olive oil farm. Trees are 2500 years old. Reserve in advance. Our kids loved it and so did we.
Sunset over the trullis in Alberobella.
Ostuni at night is SO FUN. The bean bag chairs lining the stone steps outside of bars, live music. Great restaurants too. Don't miss it!
Lecce is spectacular. We drove there late afternoon after a day at the beach. The distances are small between these towns and the roads and highways are good. You really can just pick a home base or two and day trip. No need to move around too much.
Ciao!
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Jan 29th, 2016, 04:10 PM
  #18
 
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I second Francewithfive's suggestion of Masseria Brancati for the olive oil farm tour. We did it as well and it was one of our highlights.
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Feb 2nd, 2016, 01:10 PM
  #19
Dai
 
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Maybe the best pizza of our trip was in Trani:

Antiche Arcate: Via Ognisanti, 4 Tel: 0883.508646

Had an absolutely wonderful lunch here in Trani:

http://www.osteriaferroefuoco.it/ris...erro_fuoco.asp

I wrote about our trip to Puglia which was done all by public transportation: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ain-driver.cfm
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