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Puglia, and a touch of Rome

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Puglia, and a touch of Rome

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Old Sep 26th, 2016, 09:53 AM
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keep it coming, jubi - you're really having a great trip.

BTW I did try a bit of raw fish in Sicily though we didn't see that much but I was a bit put off by the raw prawns - I definitely prefer mine cooked.
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Old Sep 26th, 2016, 09:56 AM
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Yes, later might have been better, but there is only so much baroque I need, anyway.

It really made me yearn for Martina. Benches in all the piazzas, much more user friendly but still lots of beauty. But hillier.
I did buy a gorgeous pocketbook in Lecce, though.
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Old Sep 26th, 2016, 10:02 AM
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Sighing for Italy. Thanks for this, jubi!
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Old Sep 26th, 2016, 10:29 AM
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Glad you are still enjoying Puglia, interesting about the tour buses.
We were there in early October in 2014 and didn't see any tour buses. The only time Lecce seemed crowded at all was a couple of nights during the passegiata especially once when a big soccer game was on. But that was all locals.

Maybe October is quieter or maybe it is now becoming more popular?
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Old Sep 26th, 2016, 10:33 AM
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I think October is less popular and Puglia is becoming more so. We have seen the busses only in Lecce( since we did not go to Alberobello) and one in Ostuni.
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Old Sep 26th, 2016, 10:57 AM
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I think September is increasingly becoming a top travel month for people who don't need to consider school schedules. Good weather in lots of places in the northern hemisphere.
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Old Sep 27th, 2016, 04:57 AM
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We spent the day at a beach near us today.it looks and feels exactly like the best Carribean beaches. We rented two sun beds under a that he'd umbrella, read, swam, ate at the cafe.
Lovely.
http://www.togobayportocesareo.it/en/
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Old Sep 27th, 2016, 08:01 AM
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That looks lovely jubilada!
I love those beach clubs. We went to a pretty beach on the Adriatic side and swam despite it being October. Beach clubs all closed then though.

Was the food good at the cafe?
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Old Sep 27th, 2016, 10:01 AM
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Very nice beach club. We didn't make it to Porto Cesareo.
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Old Sep 27th, 2016, 04:01 PM
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raincitygirl, the food was fine
But very simple, salads, panini. I wouldn't have gone for the food alone.
Mariam, the masseria we have stayed in for this past week is very near Porto
Cesareo so we have spent a fair amount of time there. The beaches to the north of town are gorgeous.

Tonight we had dinner in Levarano, the town about 6 k from our masseria.
This is a town that shows up in no guidebook, but we love it and we're glad to have a great dinner there. We thought it would be dead on a weeknight but it was bustling and fun, big passagiata, great restaurant. We're so glad we stayed the whole week in the Salento.
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Old Sep 27th, 2016, 11:12 PM
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Myriam, sorry about misspelling your name. Phone has mind of its own
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Old Sep 28th, 2016, 01:48 AM
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I can very well understand you were glad to stay in the Salento. We would have enjoyed it, too, if the weather would have been better during our week there. We have spent only one and a half day on the beach (in Baia Verde, near Gallipoli).
We went to check out what they call the 'Maldive del Salento' in Pescoluse, presumably the nicest beach along the Ionian coast of Puglia ... we ran away after seeing the crowds!
I'm so sorry we missed out on Porto Cesareo. Looks really nice!

No worries, jubilada, my phone also has a mind of its own.
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Old Sep 28th, 2016, 07:28 AM
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Myriam, we so lucked out on the weather. It has been gorgeous yet the beaches we have gone to have been uncrowded. Didn't go to Pescalouse.

Today on our way to Otranto we stopped at Soleto, a small town which is one of several settled primarily by Greeks. The feeling was quite different from the other towns we had been in and my wife took lots of photos. We then stopped at Santa Caesaro another seaside town but now on the Adriatic coast. Huge open expanses of sea.we had hoped to swim in the mineral pool but it was closed.
Instead we had lunch in the next town up the coast, Porto Badisto, at an unpromising looking roadside restaurant where I had a lavish delicious seafood pasta with mussels, lobster, whole shrimp, octopus and lots of fresh tomato. It was a great surprise at 10€. It was called bar enea cafe.
We then proceeded to Otranto. Amazing scenery, wild in a way the Ionian coast is not. We found our way to our hotel just outside the old City of Otranto
Myriam, we so lucked out on the weather. It has been gorgeous yet the beaches we have gone to have been uncrowded. Didn't go to Pescalouse.

Today on our way to Otranto we stopped at Soleto, a small town which is one of several settled primarily by Greeks. The feeling was quite different from the other towns we had been in and my wife took lots of photos. We then stopped at Santa Caesaro another seaside town but now on the Adriatic coast. Huge open expanses of sea.we had hoped to swim in the mineral pool but it was closed.
Instead we had lunch in the next town up the coast, Porto Badisto, at an unpromising looking roadside restaurant where I had a lavish delicious seafood pasta with mussels, lobster, whole shrimp, octopus and lots of fresh tomato. It was a great surprise at 10€. It was called bar enea cafe.
We then proceeded to Otranto. Amazing scenery, wild in a way the Ionian coast is not. We found our way to our hotel just outside the old City of Otranto
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Old Sep 28th, 2016, 07:39 AM
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Continued

http://www.hotelsangiuseppeotranto.it
This hotel is right outside the old city, has parking, and has a spa.
We explored Otranto in the afternoon , with special focus on its Cathedral with famous Tree of Life mosaics, as well as the waterfront. Well go back later this evening when the tour busses have left , but the city and its setting are lovely and the setting is gorgeous.
My wife went out for a walk while I napped , taking the room key. She didn't realize that when the key is not in the slot, nothing electrical works!
We're going to have a bread and cheese and and wind picnic on our patio for dinner.
Tomorrow, Trani, our last stop in Puglia .
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Old Sep 28th, 2016, 10:04 AM
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I am so thrilled to have found this forum, it is so enjoyable. My husband and I are traveling to the Puglia region next April for 3 weeks. First staying in Monopoli for a week, then onto Castro Marina for another week and then we are open. Any suggestions for our third week. We are both retired, visited Rome, Venice, San Gimignano, Florence and Lucca this year and now what a quieter excursion, any suggestions?
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Old Sep 28th, 2016, 12:21 PM
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Bread and cheese on the patio might be easier without the wind.
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Old Sep 28th, 2016, 11:43 PM
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We really liked Trani. We just stopped for a few hours on our way from Vieste to Bari (to catch our flight). The location of the cathedral is so beautiful! Trani was the only town where we had to buy a scratchcard in a tabaccheria for paying our parking fee. So funny, since I hadn't seen these cards in maybe 30 years. I kept it as a souvenir.
Enjoy your last stop!
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Old Sep 28th, 2016, 11:44 PM
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@lindg
How about a few days in Gallipoli on the Ionian Sea? And do add a few days in Matera. It was the highlight of our trip.
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Old Sep 29th, 2016, 06:17 AM
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We like Trani much better than Gallipoli. We have just two nights here and I wish we had more.
We are staying here
http://www.albergolucy.com

This afternoon we are spending in the public garden and walking along the sea.

Nikki, you are right as usual.
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Old Sep 29th, 2016, 08:10 AM
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I'm following along in the hope of seeing the dancing video!
Well done on the dropping the tour; sometimes it's difficult to make these quick decisions/ changes to a plan but you have rolled with it and come out on top!
Thanks for the report so far.
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