Provence Trip Report: NOT the usual suspects
Oct 16th, 2004, 06:15 AM
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Provence Trip Report: NOT the usual suspects
We are back two weeks and it is already becoming a distant memory. . I will try to do a trip report, including lodging ,a few restaurants, a few unusual things we did or saw, and a few observations on things I hear discussed here often.
We flew from San Francisco to Paris on Sept 6 and spent one night at Hotel Muguet. We also spent two nights at the end of the vacation there. Taxi rides: CDG to 7e, Hotel Muguet with a bit of traffic?44E?trip from hotel back to airport 57E?same distance, no traffic on the return, go figure. I have taken the shuttle in the past?if I knew it was going to be 44E I would take the cab next time, if I knew it wa going to be 60E next time I would take the shuttle?the debate goes on. We got a great fare in Feb on British for $469 round trip..it pays to start early and watch the fares daily.
Hotel Muguet: I now know why there is always so much discussion about it, so here is first hand info for anyone who might be debating weather to stay here.
Our one night that we loved was on a Monday night, we were given a triple room on the top floor which consisted of a good size bed, a small twin in the corner, a great new bathroom and a view of the ET and Sacra Coure, the air conditioner worked great, it was extremely quiet, the front desk staff was friendly, helpful, professional. The sixth floor requires you to walk up one flight of stairs, the elevator only goes o the 5th. We paid 105E for a double superior room.
The last two nights, Fri. and Sat. ,were a different experience, not necessarily bad, but different. We were given a regular superior room, which is much smaller, but what I had expected the first time. Big bed, a foot of space all the way around, ample closet space, again, wonderful new modern bath. No view, looking out onto a quiet courtyard. This time though, the air conditioner didn't work at all in the whole hotel the first night, the second night it worked but wasn't cold, so we had to sleep with the window open, which worked out fine. The desk help was totally different people, who were pretty uninterested in their jobs, I saw one of the women sleeping at a breakfast table instead of refilling and cleaning up.
Conclusion: If you are looking for a great 2* hotel, clean, quiet, well located, with air conditioning, this is it. I think that the problem comes from people expecting a great 3* hotel for the 2* price. For me, if I were flying in and out of Paris and wanted a nice place to just spend the night in the city, I would definitely return here, if I wanted a more charming place, in a more active neighborhood I would return to St. Germain and pay the $200 up price. You can't beat 105E, and I might also spring for the triple which is 135E just for the extra space. http://www.hotelmuguet.com/index.html
Took the TGV down to Avignon, made a reservation from the states, cost $11 a person. I?m glad that I had it, I was jet lagged when we arrived and didn?t want to deal with getting a reservation that night, which would have cost $3...well worth $8. Rented a car through Avis, picked up at the station, piece of cake !!
We rented a house for 2 weeks in Provence. We used UNTOURS this time around and I can?t say enough of good things about them. First let me say that we are in our late 40?s, early 50?s, have been to Europe a dozen times, have never been on a tour or used a tour company, and have rented apartments and houses a couple of times. When we were looking for a place in Provence on the net, I didn?t know the area, I didn?t speak the language, and I didn?t want to stay out in the middle of nowhere. I came across Untours here on Fodors, and had heard about them second hand. I was leery about a ?tour? but when I checked out their website I was impressed with the properties and with the prices. I felt that I could probably have saved a few dollars if I did it myself but this was just so easy.
Untours was great to deal with, they answered all my questions, and what they promised was delivered exactly as stated. Through them I rented a one bedroom house with a private swimming pool outside of Isle sur Sorgue, the rental car was reserved plus two extra days, the TGV reservation made, and I bought a train pass for a few days of travel. Everything came in the mail on time and was perfect. The house was wonderful, no surprises, the fridge stocked with a few days supplies, a great handbook with faultless driving directions to many places. If you want to know more, please ask. www.untours.com
A highlight of our trip was the two days we spent touring on motorcycles around Provence. I found a company on the net, Classic Bike Provence, www.classicbikeprovence.com that runs guided tours of the area. All his bikes are classic English models, beautifully maintained. This is not a ?how many miles can you cover? day , but a fun paced, frequent stops for café and pictures kind of day. We did the petit Luburon one day and the Cote d?zure the other. He does 1-4 day tours, pretty much any area you want to see, including overnight stays. You meet at his house at 9am for coffee and croissants on the deck, we stopped at a Mas one day for lunch and a swim, and back to his house around 6pm for drinks and snacks. Let me assure you that at home I wouldn?t think of getting on the back of my husbands commute bike and going anywhere, we are not motorcycle aficionado?s, but this was quite possibly the best way to see an area. If you know how to ride a bike or are willing to ride on the back, I can?t say enough of good things about it.
Fete du Patrimoine: Our town of Pernes les Fontaines has this festival once every four years, I?m sure other towns must have a similar event. We have gone to festivals celebrating foods or wines or patron saints, but never one like this. If you happen to be in an area where this is happening, run, don?t walk to it. The whole town recreates the history of how life once was. All the locals are in costume, our landlord wore his grandfathers clothes, and there are plays and reenactments of everyday life. The tennis club had matches, people were fishing in the river, there are old cars, tractors, bicycles, motorcycles, horse and buggies, just about everything?I don?t know where they stored it all for four years. All the restaurants are serving traditional foods from that era, in the evenings there was music and dancing. We were lucky to be included in the private dinners through our landlord, a perk I?m sure, because of Untours. This fete really gave you insight to the area and the people. There was nothing to buy, it was just an experience.
While in Provence we visited the usual suspects, and they are popular for a good reason. We loved Roussillon,Bonnieux,Les Baux and the hill opposite with the fabulous views, Avignon, Aix, Vaison le Romaine, Mt Ventoux, Fontaine de Vaucluse, the caves at Le Thor, Isle sur Sorgue, Cassis, Saint Remy, and all the markets everyday. We bought dishtowels, bedspreads, and tableclothes, just like everyone else. We bought cd?s of the local singers at the markets, and played them while driving around in the car, feeling very French. We ate our weight in cheese. Our best meal was in Isle sur Sorgue, at Mas de Cure Bourse, a beautiful old hotel/restaurant with lovely grounds in the middle of orchards. We ate at a most unlikely packed local place in Gemenos, on the way to Cassis, that was the best seafood salad, called simply Tourist Bar!!! Which proves it?s hard to find a bad meal in Provence. We didn?t make it to Gordes, Arles, Le Camargue,Nimes, Orange, Pont du Gard, Uzes, or anywhere east of the Vacluse, which means that we will just have to return one day.
In the two weeks that we were there, we never encountered anyone rude or anti American. These people were warm, friendly, and extremely happy?who wouldn?t be that lives in such a lovely area.
We then drove up to the edge of the French Alps. Last year I read a trip report from Hanl, and she was very generous in helping us all out. We stayed in a castle outside of Chambery, and it was everything she said it was. A wonderful old castle, beautiful room, and a fabulous restaurant. We passed through Grenoble getting there, and that was a beautiful city that I would like to return to. We took a day trip to Lake Annecy, and a drive through the Alps, both were gorgeous. Chateau des Comtes de Challes http://www.chateau-alpes.com/loisirs.htm
We returned to Paris, and did the night tour on Fat Tire Bike Tours. It was a low key way to end our trip, seeing the city on a bicycle at night, riding the boat on the Seine and drinking wine. I didn?t realize that it would be a tour of the city, with explanations of the sites, I thought that it was just biking. This would be a great way for a first timer to see the city, day or night. Knowing this, I am interested in using them to see Giverny next visit. They are a delightful, Texas based company, with enthusiastic young guides. http://www.fattirebiketoursparis.com/bikes/bike-tour/
This board helped me shape my trip and I am grateful for all the helpful information people share?and I hope this report helps someone else with their next vacation.
We flew from San Francisco to Paris on Sept 6 and spent one night at Hotel Muguet. We also spent two nights at the end of the vacation there. Taxi rides: CDG to 7e, Hotel Muguet with a bit of traffic?44E?trip from hotel back to airport 57E?same distance, no traffic on the return, go figure. I have taken the shuttle in the past?if I knew it was going to be 44E I would take the cab next time, if I knew it wa going to be 60E next time I would take the shuttle?the debate goes on. We got a great fare in Feb on British for $469 round trip..it pays to start early and watch the fares daily.
Hotel Muguet: I now know why there is always so much discussion about it, so here is first hand info for anyone who might be debating weather to stay here.
Our one night that we loved was on a Monday night, we were given a triple room on the top floor which consisted of a good size bed, a small twin in the corner, a great new bathroom and a view of the ET and Sacra Coure, the air conditioner worked great, it was extremely quiet, the front desk staff was friendly, helpful, professional. The sixth floor requires you to walk up one flight of stairs, the elevator only goes o the 5th. We paid 105E for a double superior room.
The last two nights, Fri. and Sat. ,were a different experience, not necessarily bad, but different. We were given a regular superior room, which is much smaller, but what I had expected the first time. Big bed, a foot of space all the way around, ample closet space, again, wonderful new modern bath. No view, looking out onto a quiet courtyard. This time though, the air conditioner didn't work at all in the whole hotel the first night, the second night it worked but wasn't cold, so we had to sleep with the window open, which worked out fine. The desk help was totally different people, who were pretty uninterested in their jobs, I saw one of the women sleeping at a breakfast table instead of refilling and cleaning up.
Conclusion: If you are looking for a great 2* hotel, clean, quiet, well located, with air conditioning, this is it. I think that the problem comes from people expecting a great 3* hotel for the 2* price. For me, if I were flying in and out of Paris and wanted a nice place to just spend the night in the city, I would definitely return here, if I wanted a more charming place, in a more active neighborhood I would return to St. Germain and pay the $200 up price. You can't beat 105E, and I might also spring for the triple which is 135E just for the extra space. http://www.hotelmuguet.com/index.html
Took the TGV down to Avignon, made a reservation from the states, cost $11 a person. I?m glad that I had it, I was jet lagged when we arrived and didn?t want to deal with getting a reservation that night, which would have cost $3...well worth $8. Rented a car through Avis, picked up at the station, piece of cake !!
We rented a house for 2 weeks in Provence. We used UNTOURS this time around and I can?t say enough of good things about them. First let me say that we are in our late 40?s, early 50?s, have been to Europe a dozen times, have never been on a tour or used a tour company, and have rented apartments and houses a couple of times. When we were looking for a place in Provence on the net, I didn?t know the area, I didn?t speak the language, and I didn?t want to stay out in the middle of nowhere. I came across Untours here on Fodors, and had heard about them second hand. I was leery about a ?tour? but when I checked out their website I was impressed with the properties and with the prices. I felt that I could probably have saved a few dollars if I did it myself but this was just so easy.
Untours was great to deal with, they answered all my questions, and what they promised was delivered exactly as stated. Through them I rented a one bedroom house with a private swimming pool outside of Isle sur Sorgue, the rental car was reserved plus two extra days, the TGV reservation made, and I bought a train pass for a few days of travel. Everything came in the mail on time and was perfect. The house was wonderful, no surprises, the fridge stocked with a few days supplies, a great handbook with faultless driving directions to many places. If you want to know more, please ask. www.untours.com
A highlight of our trip was the two days we spent touring on motorcycles around Provence. I found a company on the net, Classic Bike Provence, www.classicbikeprovence.com that runs guided tours of the area. All his bikes are classic English models, beautifully maintained. This is not a ?how many miles can you cover? day , but a fun paced, frequent stops for café and pictures kind of day. We did the petit Luburon one day and the Cote d?zure the other. He does 1-4 day tours, pretty much any area you want to see, including overnight stays. You meet at his house at 9am for coffee and croissants on the deck, we stopped at a Mas one day for lunch and a swim, and back to his house around 6pm for drinks and snacks. Let me assure you that at home I wouldn?t think of getting on the back of my husbands commute bike and going anywhere, we are not motorcycle aficionado?s, but this was quite possibly the best way to see an area. If you know how to ride a bike or are willing to ride on the back, I can?t say enough of good things about it.
Fete du Patrimoine: Our town of Pernes les Fontaines has this festival once every four years, I?m sure other towns must have a similar event. We have gone to festivals celebrating foods or wines or patron saints, but never one like this. If you happen to be in an area where this is happening, run, don?t walk to it. The whole town recreates the history of how life once was. All the locals are in costume, our landlord wore his grandfathers clothes, and there are plays and reenactments of everyday life. The tennis club had matches, people were fishing in the river, there are old cars, tractors, bicycles, motorcycles, horse and buggies, just about everything?I don?t know where they stored it all for four years. All the restaurants are serving traditional foods from that era, in the evenings there was music and dancing. We were lucky to be included in the private dinners through our landlord, a perk I?m sure, because of Untours. This fete really gave you insight to the area and the people. There was nothing to buy, it was just an experience.
While in Provence we visited the usual suspects, and they are popular for a good reason. We loved Roussillon,Bonnieux,Les Baux and the hill opposite with the fabulous views, Avignon, Aix, Vaison le Romaine, Mt Ventoux, Fontaine de Vaucluse, the caves at Le Thor, Isle sur Sorgue, Cassis, Saint Remy, and all the markets everyday. We bought dishtowels, bedspreads, and tableclothes, just like everyone else. We bought cd?s of the local singers at the markets, and played them while driving around in the car, feeling very French. We ate our weight in cheese. Our best meal was in Isle sur Sorgue, at Mas de Cure Bourse, a beautiful old hotel/restaurant with lovely grounds in the middle of orchards. We ate at a most unlikely packed local place in Gemenos, on the way to Cassis, that was the best seafood salad, called simply Tourist Bar!!! Which proves it?s hard to find a bad meal in Provence. We didn?t make it to Gordes, Arles, Le Camargue,Nimes, Orange, Pont du Gard, Uzes, or anywhere east of the Vacluse, which means that we will just have to return one day.
In the two weeks that we were there, we never encountered anyone rude or anti American. These people were warm, friendly, and extremely happy?who wouldn?t be that lives in such a lovely area.
We then drove up to the edge of the French Alps. Last year I read a trip report from Hanl, and she was very generous in helping us all out. We stayed in a castle outside of Chambery, and it was everything she said it was. A wonderful old castle, beautiful room, and a fabulous restaurant. We passed through Grenoble getting there, and that was a beautiful city that I would like to return to. We took a day trip to Lake Annecy, and a drive through the Alps, both were gorgeous. Chateau des Comtes de Challes http://www.chateau-alpes.com/loisirs.htm
We returned to Paris, and did the night tour on Fat Tire Bike Tours. It was a low key way to end our trip, seeing the city on a bicycle at night, riding the boat on the Seine and drinking wine. I didn?t realize that it would be a tour of the city, with explanations of the sites, I thought that it was just biking. This would be a great way for a first timer to see the city, day or night. Knowing this, I am interested in using them to see Giverny next visit. They are a delightful, Texas based company, with enthusiastic young guides. http://www.fattirebiketoursparis.com/bikes/bike-tour/
This board helped me shape my trip and I am grateful for all the helpful information people share?and I hope this report helps someone else with their next vacation.
Oct 16th, 2004, 07:19 AM
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Hi Susanna--what a wonderful trip and report--thanks so much--we had the top floor experience at Muguet as did our kids on another trip--but we did encounter the A/C issue--although it was only for 1 of the nights we spent there.
Glad to get some feedback on your Untours experience--I had heard some not quite as positive in Tuscany--bad location, bad view right on road in an unappealing town. Will consider in the future.
Take care,
Robyn France
Glad to get some feedback on your Untours experience--I had heard some not quite as positive in Tuscany--bad location, bad view right on road in an unappealing town. Will consider in the future.
Take care,
Robyn France
Oct 16th, 2004, 11:59 AM
#3
thanks susanna for a nice compact post bbut I'm amazed you paid only $11 for the tgv. I too, booked from the states and paid so much more. I'm glad you loved the towns, like Les Baux and all that some describe as too touristy. They are part of what makes Provence.
I loove it all. Thanks.
My eyes widen when I see Provence in the title
I loove it all. Thanks.
My eyes widen when I see Provence in the title
Oct 16th, 2004, 12:16 PM
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Sounds heavenly. Glad it went smoothly. My husband has a Harley in the garage; I don't dare tell him about touring on a motorcycle--he'll rearrange my whole trip! Mas de Cure Bourse sounds neat. Do you think they're open for lunches?
Oct 16th, 2004, 12:19 PM
#5
Yes, they are open for lunch.
Susanna, I wish I knew you were going there. It's a favorite of mine and grandmere.
I spent several days there and heard that Mde Donzé left and have been trying to find out if it's true.
She'll come to each table in her chef's coat and cap that usually has some vegetable dangling from it.
Susanna, I wish I knew you were going there. It's a favorite of mine and grandmere.
I spent several days there and heard that Mde Donzé left and have been trying to find out if it's true.
She'll come to each table in her chef's coat and cap that usually has some vegetable dangling from it.
Oct 16th, 2004, 02:33 PM
#6
OK, Susanna wins for the trip report most designed to make me green with envy.
Susanna, did you know about the festival in Pernes les Fontaines when you made the arrangements to stay there, or was it just serendipity?
Susanna, did you know about the festival in Pernes les Fontaines when you made the arrangements to stay there, or was it just serendipity?
Oct 16th, 2004, 06:41 PM
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Thanks everyone for the nice responses.
Robyn:I have stayed in other hotels in Paris that also have had this AC problem...I think they only really turn it on when THEY think it's hot enough. If you are thinking of using Untours, you really need to ask specifics, as with any rental company. I do think that their properties are not in the most popular cities, which can be good or bad. It is why they are not that expensive and you really get a feeling for living with the locals. Although our town was just a mile away and the next town was maybe 10 mins away, we did a fair amount of driving to get to all the places we wanted to see, which we didn't mind.
cigalechanta: Yes, my reservation card for my husband and I said $22...the reservation was made for me by Untours, maybe they get a discount that I am not aware of...At Mas de Cure Bourse we did not experience the chef coming to the table, so maybe she is gone. The food was wonderful though, so they must be following in her footsteps.
Hopingtotravel: Tell your husband...these were probably the two most fun days we had...very resonably priced too, I think about 220euros for the two days...try it!Here is a link to the biking pictures:http://public.fotki.com/somaenforcer...ikes_provence/
Nikki: we didn't know before hand about the fete, but I can assure you that I will be back there in 4 years to experience it again. Here is a link to the fete pictures: http://public.fotki.com/somaenforcer...te_pernes_les/
Robyn:I have stayed in other hotels in Paris that also have had this AC problem...I think they only really turn it on when THEY think it's hot enough. If you are thinking of using Untours, you really need to ask specifics, as with any rental company. I do think that their properties are not in the most popular cities, which can be good or bad. It is why they are not that expensive and you really get a feeling for living with the locals. Although our town was just a mile away and the next town was maybe 10 mins away, we did a fair amount of driving to get to all the places we wanted to see, which we didn't mind.
cigalechanta: Yes, my reservation card for my husband and I said $22...the reservation was made for me by Untours, maybe they get a discount that I am not aware of...At Mas de Cure Bourse we did not experience the chef coming to the table, so maybe she is gone. The food was wonderful though, so they must be following in her footsteps.
Hopingtotravel: Tell your husband...these were probably the two most fun days we had...very resonably priced too, I think about 220euros for the two days...try it!Here is a link to the biking pictures:http://public.fotki.com/somaenforcer...ikes_provence/
Nikki: we didn't know before hand about the fete, but I can assure you that I will be back there in 4 years to experience it again. Here is a link to the fete pictures: http://public.fotki.com/somaenforcer...te_pernes_les/
Oct 16th, 2004, 06:52 PM
#8
susanna, that was fun seeing your photos, I do prefer these types over monuments, that are in my many books. I loved the ones of the ladies at the lavoir. I try to find one in every village I visit
Oct 17th, 2004, 05:35 PM
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Susanna, What a fabulous trip. OK, this is going on my list of things to do (Judi, S' are you in?). I can only imagine how those lovely French purchases compliment your beautiful Italian things! Maybe your DH will let your return with Judi and I?
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