Uma

How best to "round out" a brief intro to Provence in early September?? We'll base in Avignon with a rental car:
Wed - Arrive in and explore Avignon
Thurs - Arles
Fri - Les Baux and St. Remy
Sat - deciding between Aix and Gordes, Bonnieux ??
Sun - Pont du Gard, perhaps Nimes, Avignon
Mon - return to Paris
I am wondering about the drive from Avignon to Aix -- how long, how difficult
for the directionally challenged? (will have maps). Our interests are
art, architecture, history, landscape, culture, food.

Ackislander

Aix is a modestly-sized city, home to a university and to -- to quote a passerby on the street "more beautiful women than I have ever seen in one place in my life."

It also has wonderful markets, interesting architecture, fountains fed by hot springs, delicious food, and the Cours Mirabeau, one of the most famous streets in France. Rue Cardinale has been used in movies for scenes set in medieval France, and Cezanne and Victor Hugo (?) went to school there.

There is a ring road around the old part of the city, with underground parking garages and electric signs to tell you where parking is available. On street parking is essentially unavailable.

Christina

I like Aix a lot but it is a city and you seem to mainly be exploring cities. You barely need a car, actually. Les Baux and Pont du Gard(which are really historic sites) and St Remy are the only ones that are not on your list.

So I'd probably say some smaller places, although Gordes and Bonnieux aren't my favorites and I doubt you'll spend hours in either one of them. I like Roussillon better, for one place. They are fine, there are other things to see around them, I presume you might do more but it's hard to tell from your list as you do list Pont du Gard but don't list anything else that you might visit around Gordes (e.g., the Abbaye de Senanque).

The drive from Avignon to Aix is easy, they are both major cities on major routes. It's the narrow twisting one-lane roads on mountains that are problems. I don't know how long it might take, I guess a couple hours if you meander and take it easy or go national routes rather than the big one. They are only about 50 miles apart, as I recall.

FrenchMystiqueTours

You should buy Muchelin maps of the region (scale of 1/150,000 or 1/200,000). They are loaded with useful information and icons for all kinds of touristic/historic sites. I use them like my bible. The roads on the maps highlighted in green are designated scenic roads. Use the website viamichelin.com to estimate driving times and distances as well as gas/toll costs and suggested routes.

You don't say what time you are arriving on Wednesday but if mid to late afternoon then you may only have time to get settled into your place an explore Avignon that day. The big attraction there is the Papal Palace.

Thursday - If you leave early enough I don't know that you will need a whole day for Arles. You could spend a whole day there if you are doing museums and things but if you are just strolling and window shopping, so to speak, you might spend the second half of you day nearby in The Camargues region. It is a major salt producing region and is most known for the Gardian (French cowboys) who ride white horses and round up the famous black bulls of the region. Famous also for its unique salt marsh vegetation. Another alternative is to drive through the Camargue region to the medieval walled city of Aigues Mortes. Thirdly, if the weather is still warm you could drive through the Camargue to a beach on the Mediterranean called Plage de Piemanson.

Friday looks good with Les Baux and St. Remy. With any additional time drive on the designated scenic roads nearby that go through The Alpilles.

Saturday - I guess this is your call. If you are thinking of a city my choice would be Nimes as opposed to Aix. Many people here on the forum love Aix but I prefer the other small cities in the region to Aix. I think for the first time visitor there is more in the way of touristic/historic sites in Nimes than in Aix. Otherwise Gordes, Bonnieux are fine and/or you could also visit Roussillon, Oppede or any of the other perched villages around here.

Sunday - Pont du Gard is a good idea but after that how about something a little different? I suggest (since you have a car) that you get lost. Before you do that, though, go vist a town to northwest of Pont du Gard called Uzes. Lovely place that I know you will like. Lots of restaurants, stores, boutiques etc. On your map you will notice to the north and west of Uzes lots of small white roads that go through lots of tiny villages. Go explore these roads and drive through these villages. I've stayed in this area before and there are loads of tiny villages that are just charming that no one ever visits. A good time to put the guidebook down and just get lost. There's always the chance you'll have an interesting encounter with a local too.

Uma

Thanks, Ackislander. Christina, I'm fine with cities(having
been born in quite a large one)and with smaller villages.
My itinerary is an outline, basically, with some places that I
thought we would enjoy; will fill in more as my research, time and our energy levels permit. Ideally would visit both Aix and the Gordes, Bonnieux, Roussillon area; not enough days. Guess only I can make the final decision. But always appreciate the input here.

Uma

Your response popped up while I was writing a reply,
FrenchMystiqueTours. Thanks for the wonderful info/suggestions. Don't worry -- we are guaranteed to get lost!

nametaken

I have just returned from Provence from my third visit. I have done some new and some repeat visits to all the wonderful places there are in that area. Uzes is a not to miss place just across the Rhone from Avingnon.The Pont du Gard is a do not miss, but Nimes is very disappointing. The temple is covered with scaffolding and is in the process of being cleaned(this has been going on for several years now) so you will not see anything. The arena is always in preparation for a bull fight or concert, so you will not see what my husband and I saw there five years ago on the inside--go to Orange or Arles to see that.In other words skip Nimes.So much of Provence is lovely,I would hate to see you waste a day in Nimes. Been there done that. I also have very string opinions about other villages. Let me know if you are interested. But please skip Nimes.

grandmere

I like Gordes, Menerbes, Bonnieux, Roussillon, Apt, Oppede-le-Vieux.

Uma

Appreciate the info. on Nimes and Uzes, nametaken. Will you write a trip report? Where else would you suggest? Thanks, grandmere. Saw a wonderful exhibit this evening, "Cezanne and American Modernism,"
that included several of his works and pieces from many American artists he influenced. Which, of course, makes me
want to go to Aix.

nametaken

I may write a trip report, buI want to respond to your questions before I undertake that. I spent several days in Aix on this last trip, and I wish I had spent my time elsewhere. It is a beautiful city but difficult to navigate because of all the one way streets. To see any of the Cyzanne sites you must make arrangments through the tourist office, and you may not get the time you want or an English tour.It is also a long trip from Avignon, and the parking garages are often full. If I sound overly negative to Aix lovers, I apologize. I just happen to agree with Grandmere about the places I love in Provence--plus one more--L'isle sur la Sorgue. That would be a must if you can fit it in The Sunday market there is heaven. Uzes has a lovely market on Saturday. You will love Provence whatever piece of it you chose to see this trip.

nametaken

I forgot to mention Uzes is just a few miles from the Pont due Gard.

Uma

Uzes, L'isle sur la Sorgue sound great. So many wonderful places to choose from. Maybe we'll stay north, and leave Aix for next year!

FrenchMystiqueTours

Yes, forgot to mention L'Isle sur la Sorgue. It's not the first time someone has disagreed with me about Nimes. Everyone has their own opinion so do some research and form your own opinion. Another personal opinion is that if you do Avignon and Arles then you should spend the rest of your time in the countryside (yes, that means skip Nimes).

Orange has a fantastic (one of only 3 of its kind) Roman theater but my wife and I found the rest of the city to be rather ordinary and uninteresting. The theater is worth a visit though (Louis XIV called the theater wall the greatest wall in his kingdom) and if you do that then about 30+- minutes drive northwest is another lovely town called Vaison la Romaine. It has a large collection of Roman ruins, a well known market and a lovely ancient old city. Very beautiful place. I didn't have time to do it but there are some designated scenic roads to the south and east of Vaison la Romaine that look interesting. I'll get them next time.

Also, if you are doing the Luberon (which I think you would like very much) and have time there are also a number of scenic roads north of Gordes and you could take one of these to Venasque or wander around. And between Avignon and Orange is Chateauneuf du Pape, famous for its wine if you feel like a wine tour.

TDudette

Uma, if you want to read my TR ("Provence Sandwich"), DH and I based in Aix and took a day trip that included Gorges, Roussillon and Bonnieux (and more). Granted, we were seeing only the highlights, but you might be able to swing a few places in one day if you are organized.

DaveMM

Great discussion. Thanks.

Bookmarked.

DaveMM

Uma

Thanks, all, for your continuing input. Enjoyed your TR,
TDudette. FrenchMystiqueTours, I am the research queen!
Fodors, Frommers, Michelin Green Guide, bookstores,
travel magazines, travel forums, friends. Insights on this forum always among the most helpful.

TDudette

Hope to be reading your TR soon!

FrenchMystiqueTours

Have a blast Uma! Early September is a great time to see Provence.

CaliNurse

Nametaken, I am interested in your "strong opinions" about other villages. please continue naming your favorites.
Uma, thanks for inspring a great thread and great answers!

cigalechanta

I think you should do your own exploring, as I have always done hoping you have read where you would like to see.
We here, who love Provence have diffrent ideas about what to see or stay. Our life styles may differ which comes into play.
I love the Les Alpilles with the narled olive trees twisted by the Mistral. I love the Luberon with my favorite villages like Lourmarin, Uzes though not in Provence but the Gard is a favorite. The SaturDay market is on my list of favorites
Maussane, to have lunch by the fountain and taste bull meat is something you may want to taste. The list goea on what to
do, taste, look and experience. I hope you will love it.