Prelogue - Basingstoke's trip report, Paris, Brugge, and beyond.
May 21st, 2008, 08:03 AM
#21
Original Poster
We only stayed 2 nights in Brugge. In retrospect I would have liked to add some more time to this charming city. It is a great place to wander and as we left for Antwerp it was with the realization that there was much that we would like to have experienced there but did not.
A morning train brought us to Antwerp. We approached the first taxi in the line, told him the address of our B&B and he replied that it was very near by and not worth a taxi trip. It did not look that close on the map and the Garmin was of little help in giving total distances at the time. More about using a Garmin later. However, the taxi did refuse to take us and rather than go to the next one in line we decided that since it was a nice day we would walk. It turned out to be about 2km, not too long considering all of the walking we had been doing but feeing much longer in the hot sun and with suitcases dragging behind.
The B&B, Monique Vermeire was very interesting and very different from the one in Brugge but not in a negative way. It was one found on the internet but with only 2 reviews, both positive. Monique Vermeire is an artist and a recognized and accomplished one at that. The B&B was like staying in a museum. Not only was it full of her art but the public areas of her home had unique antiques, wallpapers and ceiling frescoes. When I post pictures you will see what I mean. Our room was on the 3rd (read 4th)floor, this time one flight more than in Brugge and it was quite a haul up there. I had thought that the room would be ensuite but it was not - put that down to miscommunication due to language. However, the WC and shower were right outside our door and as we were the only folks on that floor, it was not shared, so all was well. The clean,large rooms show the age of the house, and are furnished with a combination of antiques and simply old furniture. It was like staying with an aunt and was comfortable. One room that we saw did have a shower in the room, but it was a free standing shower cabinet along one of the walls - something I experienced once before and would not recommend.
Ms. Vermeire welcomed us serving a beverage choice and chocolates in her beautiful courtyard garden that was in full bloom and we had a very nice discussion of Antwerp, Art, and life. She is a lovely woman.
After settling in we took a walk to Antwerp's main square, about 10 minutes or so but not an especially interesting route. We looked around and not yet being ready for food settled for a soft drink on the square and just people watched for awhile. I found the nearby tourist office, asked some general questions, picked up a better map and learned that there was a nearby shopping mall nearby behind the Hilton that has a WC on the 3rd level - a valuable piece of info.
We were not too interested in touring that day since we were to meet a fellow fodorite the next day for a city tour - I'll devote a full post to that.
We did though want to see Antwerp's Jewish section in some detail and thought it would be cool to have dinner in a kosher restaurant just to see if it was any different from those that can be (increasingly rarely) found in the US. We knew we had reached the Jewish section when we saw a number of people in the streets wearing what I would consider Hasidic clothing. I approached a pair of young men hoping they would speak English but they did not really. Mi Chica, although born in Cuba speaks fluent Yiddish which is the street language of Hasids in the US but it is not socially acceptable for her to approach them.
Many years ago, I spent a year plus on an assignment in Jerusalem and learned enough of the Hebrew language to get along. Reaching into my memory banks I asked them in Hebrew if they spoke that language and they did. It turns out that Hebrew is the street language there rather than Yiddish. I was amazed at how the Hebrew that I had learned came flooding back and we had a nice conversation ending with directions to a restaurant called Mama Mia, which they claimed was the best kosher dairy restaurant in Antwerp.
More about that later.
A morning train brought us to Antwerp. We approached the first taxi in the line, told him the address of our B&B and he replied that it was very near by and not worth a taxi trip. It did not look that close on the map and the Garmin was of little help in giving total distances at the time. More about using a Garmin later. However, the taxi did refuse to take us and rather than go to the next one in line we decided that since it was a nice day we would walk. It turned out to be about 2km, not too long considering all of the walking we had been doing but feeing much longer in the hot sun and with suitcases dragging behind.
The B&B, Monique Vermeire was very interesting and very different from the one in Brugge but not in a negative way. It was one found on the internet but with only 2 reviews, both positive. Monique Vermeire is an artist and a recognized and accomplished one at that. The B&B was like staying in a museum. Not only was it full of her art but the public areas of her home had unique antiques, wallpapers and ceiling frescoes. When I post pictures you will see what I mean. Our room was on the 3rd (read 4th)floor, this time one flight more than in Brugge and it was quite a haul up there. I had thought that the room would be ensuite but it was not - put that down to miscommunication due to language. However, the WC and shower were right outside our door and as we were the only folks on that floor, it was not shared, so all was well. The clean,large rooms show the age of the house, and are furnished with a combination of antiques and simply old furniture. It was like staying with an aunt and was comfortable. One room that we saw did have a shower in the room, but it was a free standing shower cabinet along one of the walls - something I experienced once before and would not recommend.
Ms. Vermeire welcomed us serving a beverage choice and chocolates in her beautiful courtyard garden that was in full bloom and we had a very nice discussion of Antwerp, Art, and life. She is a lovely woman.
After settling in we took a walk to Antwerp's main square, about 10 minutes or so but not an especially interesting route. We looked around and not yet being ready for food settled for a soft drink on the square and just people watched for awhile. I found the nearby tourist office, asked some general questions, picked up a better map and learned that there was a nearby shopping mall nearby behind the Hilton that has a WC on the 3rd level - a valuable piece of info.
We were not too interested in touring that day since we were to meet a fellow fodorite the next day for a city tour - I'll devote a full post to that.
We did though want to see Antwerp's Jewish section in some detail and thought it would be cool to have dinner in a kosher restaurant just to see if it was any different from those that can be (increasingly rarely) found in the US. We knew we had reached the Jewish section when we saw a number of people in the streets wearing what I would consider Hasidic clothing. I approached a pair of young men hoping they would speak English but they did not really. Mi Chica, although born in Cuba speaks fluent Yiddish which is the street language of Hasids in the US but it is not socially acceptable for her to approach them.
Many years ago, I spent a year plus on an assignment in Jerusalem and learned enough of the Hebrew language to get along. Reaching into my memory banks I asked them in Hebrew if they spoke that language and they did. It turns out that Hebrew is the street language there rather than Yiddish. I was amazed at how the Hebrew that I had learned came flooding back and we had a nice conversation ending with directions to a restaurant called Mama Mia, which they claimed was the best kosher dairy restaurant in Antwerp.
More about that later.
May 21st, 2008, 04:28 PM
#23
Original Poster
Thanks LC - who knew that I still remembered any of it? An enduring image will be of Hasidic men in black coats, hats, long beards and side curls riding bicycles - not something seen in the US. We finally found Mama Mia asking direction clarifications on the way with my newly resurrected linguistic skills. I am still amazed.
With a name like Mama Mia I was expecting Italian. OK, Italian dairy but it had an eclectic menu. The restaurant is pretty bare bones even for a dairy place (sorry, I couldn't help it) . There were a couple of orthodox families eating there each with about a half dozen kids all whom were running about the place. No one seemed to mind. A different kind of ambience for sure but we got with the program and half way enjoyed it.
So, what does one order in kosher dairy restaurant? I started with onion soup that was prepared with a vegetarian broth. Not bad at all if you don't think about what real onion soup should taste like. We followed that with a vegetable omelette that came with a huge mound of frites. That omelette was something else. The waiter said it had 3 eggs but I swear it had to be more like a dozen or maybe he meant 3 ostrich eggs. I never saw an omelette that size. We regretted that we had already ordered cheese blintzes for dessert.
Now, for the uninitiated unfamiliar with blintzes, think filled crepe. But we were puzzled why cheese blintzes would be on the dessert menu since they are more of a entree thing. Fruit filled blintzes for dessert yes, but cheese? The cheese used in a cheese blintze is usually a farmers cheese blend often with cream cheese. The blintzes were served and they were nothing like grandma made. Two were on the plate, each about a foot long (about twice as long as usual). They were filled with what seemed the traditional filling with the addition of creme fraiche. They were topped with chocolate sauce and about a pint of whipped cream each. We never saw anything that called itself a blintz like it. Reluctantly leaving some on the plate we paid a not inconsiderable bill and crawled out to the street and back to the B&B through the Staadspark . This time we were gratefull for a long walk as an aid to digestion. Will we ever be able to eat again? At the time the answer seemed that it would be in the negative.
The following day we were to meet jeepeegee and his lovely wife. jeepeegee is a fodorite that I had met on this forum after I contacted him about his posting of pictures of old Antwerp and mentioned that we would be there in May. He offered to meet us and show us the Antwerp sights and sites that tourists usually never see. How could I pass up an offer like that?
Next - an amazing day.
With a name like Mama Mia I was expecting Italian. OK, Italian dairy but it had an eclectic menu. The restaurant is pretty bare bones even for a dairy place (sorry, I couldn't help it) . There were a couple of orthodox families eating there each with about a half dozen kids all whom were running about the place. No one seemed to mind. A different kind of ambience for sure but we got with the program and half way enjoyed it.
So, what does one order in kosher dairy restaurant? I started with onion soup that was prepared with a vegetarian broth. Not bad at all if you don't think about what real onion soup should taste like. We followed that with a vegetable omelette that came with a huge mound of frites. That omelette was something else. The waiter said it had 3 eggs but I swear it had to be more like a dozen or maybe he meant 3 ostrich eggs. I never saw an omelette that size. We regretted that we had already ordered cheese blintzes for dessert.
Now, for the uninitiated unfamiliar with blintzes, think filled crepe. But we were puzzled why cheese blintzes would be on the dessert menu since they are more of a entree thing. Fruit filled blintzes for dessert yes, but cheese? The cheese used in a cheese blintze is usually a farmers cheese blend often with cream cheese. The blintzes were served and they were nothing like grandma made. Two were on the plate, each about a foot long (about twice as long as usual). They were filled with what seemed the traditional filling with the addition of creme fraiche. They were topped with chocolate sauce and about a pint of whipped cream each. We never saw anything that called itself a blintz like it. Reluctantly leaving some on the plate we paid a not inconsiderable bill and crawled out to the street and back to the B&B through the Staadspark . This time we were gratefull for a long walk as an aid to digestion. Will we ever be able to eat again? At the time the answer seemed that it would be in the negative.
The following day we were to meet jeepeegee and his lovely wife. jeepeegee is a fodorite that I had met on this forum after I contacted him about his posting of pictures of old Antwerp and mentioned that we would be there in May. He offered to meet us and show us the Antwerp sights and sites that tourists usually never see. How could I pass up an offer like that?
Next - an amazing day.
May 22nd, 2008, 06:22 PM
#25
Original Poster
Thanks IrishF for the kind words. I am working on organizing pictures this evening and weekend.
Before I write about jeepeegee and our Antwerp tour I would like to say a few more words about Monique Vermeer's B&B. Simply put her place is something very different and perhaps not for all tastes. We both quite enjoyed it. The public rooms are very special with true museum quality antiques, intricate woodwork and some unbelievable rare wallpaper. There is artwork all over, mostly her own paintings and she really is very good. There are other items of art or whimsy on almost every surface. The stair railing is also antique and one of the most unusual that I have ever seen ending in a carved hand that clutches the first upright post. But, the home is largly original and that means old and if you require ensuite facilities then this is not the place for you although the rooms each have a sink and mirror, some that are antique and quite spectacular.
M. Vermeire serves a nice and different breakfast. Different in that she serves a variety of preserves and jams that she makes herself and they are outstanding. We particularly enjoyed her rhubarb apricot jam. It makes for a very interesting and tasty combination.
The neighborhood is a good one and although our room faced the street, we were not bothered by noise even though the windows do not have double glazing. As mentioned, it is about a 10 minute walk to the main square and the walk takes you past some interesting shops but on the whole is not an interesting one. There are several nearby resstaurants and cafes that we were told are good, but we did not try them.
Before I write about jeepeegee and our Antwerp tour I would like to say a few more words about Monique Vermeer's B&B. Simply put her place is something very different and perhaps not for all tastes. We both quite enjoyed it. The public rooms are very special with true museum quality antiques, intricate woodwork and some unbelievable rare wallpaper. There is artwork all over, mostly her own paintings and she really is very good. There are other items of art or whimsy on almost every surface. The stair railing is also antique and one of the most unusual that I have ever seen ending in a carved hand that clutches the first upright post. But, the home is largly original and that means old and if you require ensuite facilities then this is not the place for you although the rooms each have a sink and mirror, some that are antique and quite spectacular.
M. Vermeire serves a nice and different breakfast. Different in that she serves a variety of preserves and jams that she makes herself and they are outstanding. We particularly enjoyed her rhubarb apricot jam. It makes for a very interesting and tasty combination.
The neighborhood is a good one and although our room faced the street, we were not bothered by noise even though the windows do not have double glazing. As mentioned, it is about a 10 minute walk to the main square and the walk takes you past some interesting shops but on the whole is not an interesting one. There are several nearby resstaurants and cafes that we were told are good, but we did not try them.
May 23rd, 2008, 07:09 PM
#28
Original Poster
So, to continue on a most amazing day. Some months ago, a fodorite, jeepeejee posted on this forum a fascinating set of pictures of old Antwerp (www. fotoreisverhaal.net/antwerpen) and I replied to the post mentioning my interest in the post and that we were planning a visit to Antwerp. As I mentioned earlier, jeepeejee offered to show us the places most tourists do not see and so began emails back and forth where we learned that we had much in common in our professional and travel interests. A link that jepeejee is involved with is the [email protected]. If you have seen his travel stories and pictures you will know that he is very well travelled and has much to share. If you haven't seen his travel blogs they are well worth finding through the above links and through this forum.
jeepeejee and his lovely wife Nicole met us bright and early at our B&B and the adventure began. This man is organized!! He had a planned a full day's itenerary of 30 sites and Nicole had researched historical and other notes on each place. To discuss each place would take a book of writing but I will touch on some of the high points. We began with a tour of the Jewish section and diamond district and even though we had been there the evening before, we saw many places that we had missed such as the old synagogue/bombing memorial.
Highlights were visits to the Universities attended by jeepeejee and Nicole and very special was a visit to the national library and archives. Nicole is a librarian and teaches library science. She arranged for a student of hers who worked at the library to take us on a tour of some archive rooms that are usually closed to the public. The interior architecture of these old rooms and arrangement of books were very interesting and our guide told us that even many Antwerpens are unaware that these treasured rooms exist. We were very privileged.
We covered a lot of ground and saw many of the hidden gems of Antwerp, cathedrals including one that had burned and had been "resurrected," and the cathedral that jeepeegee attended as a youth that had some of the most beautiful woodwork and carvings. Some things that we saw were not quite gems such as a walk through the red light district. It is smaller than the one in Amsterdam but has the lady in the window thing. The ladies were of all shapes and sizes and a few were senior citizens. Something for everybody who likes that sort of thing.
The waterfront was also quite a sight with the maritime museum housed in a castle as was the nearby old meatpacking area transformed into a music museum and place of interesting architecture. Thoughout, jeepeejee and Nicole had a wealth of commentary and historical information. jeepeejee and Nicole had their car parked in a garage near a park and had packed a picnic lunch that Nicole had prepared - a real treat and we particularly enjoyed the smoked salmon salad. Later, we stopped in at the theater which has a stunning dessert restaurant for drinks and to enjoy the view of the street below. That is just one more place that the casual tourist would have no knowledge of. Anyone going to Antwerp should seek it out. We finished with some drinks in a courtyard restaurant while we waited for our dinner reservation nearby and enjoyed a dinner of comraderie and conversation that lasted nearly 3 hours. Thank you jeepeejee and Nicole for giving us a memorable day and an appreciation for Antwerp that we simply would not have had doing the usual tourist things. If you are reading this, we learned a lot and very much enjoyed the company of you, our newly found friends. We sincerely meant it when we urged you to visit the Washington, D.C. area so we can reciprocate by giving you a tour of the hidden gems of our city and surrounding area.
This amazing day would not have happened had it not been for the Fodor's Forum, so thanks to Fodor's as well.
jeepeejee and his lovely wife Nicole met us bright and early at our B&B and the adventure began. This man is organized!! He had a planned a full day's itenerary of 30 sites and Nicole had researched historical and other notes on each place. To discuss each place would take a book of writing but I will touch on some of the high points. We began with a tour of the Jewish section and diamond district and even though we had been there the evening before, we saw many places that we had missed such as the old synagogue/bombing memorial.
Highlights were visits to the Universities attended by jeepeejee and Nicole and very special was a visit to the national library and archives. Nicole is a librarian and teaches library science. She arranged for a student of hers who worked at the library to take us on a tour of some archive rooms that are usually closed to the public. The interior architecture of these old rooms and arrangement of books were very interesting and our guide told us that even many Antwerpens are unaware that these treasured rooms exist. We were very privileged.
We covered a lot of ground and saw many of the hidden gems of Antwerp, cathedrals including one that had burned and had been "resurrected," and the cathedral that jeepeegee attended as a youth that had some of the most beautiful woodwork and carvings. Some things that we saw were not quite gems such as a walk through the red light district. It is smaller than the one in Amsterdam but has the lady in the window thing. The ladies were of all shapes and sizes and a few were senior citizens. Something for everybody who likes that sort of thing.
The waterfront was also quite a sight with the maritime museum housed in a castle as was the nearby old meatpacking area transformed into a music museum and place of interesting architecture. Thoughout, jeepeejee and Nicole had a wealth of commentary and historical information. jeepeejee and Nicole had their car parked in a garage near a park and had packed a picnic lunch that Nicole had prepared - a real treat and we particularly enjoyed the smoked salmon salad. Later, we stopped in at the theater which has a stunning dessert restaurant for drinks and to enjoy the view of the street below. That is just one more place that the casual tourist would have no knowledge of. Anyone going to Antwerp should seek it out. We finished with some drinks in a courtyard restaurant while we waited for our dinner reservation nearby and enjoyed a dinner of comraderie and conversation that lasted nearly 3 hours. Thank you jeepeejee and Nicole for giving us a memorable day and an appreciation for Antwerp that we simply would not have had doing the usual tourist things. If you are reading this, we learned a lot and very much enjoyed the company of you, our newly found friends. We sincerely meant it when we urged you to visit the Washington, D.C. area so we can reciprocate by giving you a tour of the hidden gems of our city and surrounding area.
This amazing day would not have happened had it not been for the Fodor's Forum, so thanks to Fodor's as well.
May 24th, 2008, 04:54 PM
#29
Original Poster
pommefrites - When you get to Brugge, be sure to get the frites at one of the two stands in the Grote Markt. Most restaurants will serve them but IMO the ones served at the stands were the best. In Antwerp, there is a frites place in the Markt next to McDonalds that although it seems geared to the tourist and probably is, also has excellent frites. BTW, if you just want a soda, McD's has the best price in the Markt and sidewalk tables too.
May 25th, 2008, 01:12 AM
#30
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Hi basingstoke2 !
Indeed, we had a great day in Antwerp ! I'm glad you both enjoyed the day we planned and we are pleased with your friendly words here !
For the visitors hereby the correct links basingstoke2 mentioned in his report above...
Antwerp in old days:
http://www.fotoreisverhaal.net/antwerpen/
Travel stories:
http://www.fotoreisverhaal.net/
Mail contact:
[email protected]
I hope you all enjoy the url's.
Jeepeejee
Indeed, we had a great day in Antwerp ! I'm glad you both enjoyed the day we planned and we are pleased with your friendly words here !
For the visitors hereby the correct links basingstoke2 mentioned in his report above...
Antwerp in old days:
http://www.fotoreisverhaal.net/antwerpen/
Travel stories:
http://www.fotoreisverhaal.net/
Mail contact:
[email protected]
I hope you all enjoy the url's.
Jeepeejee
May 25th, 2008, 05:18 AM
#31
Original Poster
Thank you jeepeejee for the URL corrections. I never was a good typist - my bad.
Fororites - do yourself a favor and look at these URLs, particularly if you have any interest in Belgium and Antwerp - they are a a most excellent find with photos of many of jeepeejee's world-wide travels and give a good insight into the travel world of one of our fellow posters.
Fororites - do yourself a favor and look at these URLs, particularly if you have any interest in Belgium and Antwerp - they are a a most excellent find with photos of many of jeepeejee's world-wide travels and give a good insight into the travel world of one of our fellow posters.
May 26th, 2008, 03:03 PM
#32
Original Poster
A final thought about Antwerp. In many ways it reminds me of Brussels. Both are large cosmopolitan cities many of whose best delights are not obvious to the casual tourist. Unlike cities like Paris, one has to do some research above and beyond the usual to really appreciate the place. One can walk around Paris without any planning at all and still be "blown away" and the same for many other cities - Prague comes to mind as another. I can honestly say that jeepeejee and his DW made the city come alive in a way that I know we would not have known given our own casual travel style. We do research places that we are about to visit and have somewhat of a plan but we often end up doing much based on seat of the pants whims based on what looks good at the time. We find that this way of travel suits us but it is obvious, that some places require more thought and planning for full appreciation.
Jun 4th, 2008, 04:26 AM
#34
Original Poster
Actually, the train trip is not complicated. It is just that we had some bad breaks. We went through Lille which is fine. There are lots of departures from from Paris direct to Lille and it is a pleasant trip. From Lille to Brugge there are both direct trains and trains that require a change. Our original routing on the 7:58 out of Paris had us change to a direct train at Lille but there were two problems. The first is that our connection time was only 6 minutes which IMO is too short although we were assured that it was not. The second is that our train arrived late so the connection was missed. If that had happened on a weekday other than a Monday (I am not sure about weekends) it would not have been much of a delay at all since there would have been another direct train without a very long additional wait, however that train does not run on Mondays. The other major delay was due to the posting of the wrong track for the train to Brugge that would have reqired a change. That caught us and several others. My understanding is that this kind of error is rare.
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