Prague, Vienna and Budapest Trip Report
Jul 13th, 2018, 01:02 AM
#21
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I think going early in the day to unairconditioned palaces and museums is a very good idea, annhig. I just assumed the Hofburg would be cooled. Not just for comfort but for the better preservation of the furnishings and artifacts.
Jul 13th, 2018, 06:07 AM
#22
CLB - I would have made the same assumption. We were lucky in that we went to the Hofburg first, bought our "Sissi" cards that also got us into the Schoenbrunn, so we were all "Sissied out" by the time we got to the Schoenbrunn later in our stay. The Sissi card got us the longest Schoenbrunn tour as well which wasn't clear from their publicity. Just a shame that it was cold and raining the day we went so no a/c required.
Jul 15th, 2018, 01:37 PM
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Thursday, On the Road & Budapest Left Vienna wishing we had seen more art & visited the National Opera but soon crossing the Hungarian border & stopping at the border city of Gyor for a sight seeing break. Bus let us out near the town center and we walked into the pedestrian friendly baroque town center. Walking by shops, we saw large framed photo collections – seems our early June arrival coincided with high school graduations. Our guide explained that in Hungary an individual class traditionally “stays together” (students and teachers) throughout secondary school; therefore, graduation is a grand occasion for all and celebrated with a photo montage of graduates and teachers.
Gyor had a beautiful, huge town hall & a pleasant open feel. Daughter and I went to grocery store for sandwiches and fruit & then headed to the river for a park to enjoy them for an early lunch. (One block from the river, there was a great produce stand & little hot food stands that would have been much better shopping experience.) Park had huge old trees and workmen busy building sidewalks and small amphitheater; town seemed to be thriving.
Back in the bus, this time heading to Esztergom, seat of the Catholic Church in Hungary. We headed straight for the Basilica, the largest church and tallest building in Hungary. (It’s on a steep hill, overlooking the Danube River). My main impression of the church was lots of the color blue & a very large painting. Also remember the tomb of national hero, Cardinal Jozsef Mindszently, imprisoned first by Hungarian Nazis and then after a few months of freedom, imprisoned by the Communists. He was freed during the very brief 1956 Hungarian revolution & then had to take refuge in the American embassy when the revolution was suppressed. Eventually exiled to Vienna, Mindszently’s body was returned to Esztergom for burial only in the early 1990s, when Hungary was again free.
Daughter and I walked on up the hill, above the church, for a great view of the busy river (especially busy with small cruise ships).
On to Budapest, the largest metropolitan area of our three city tour. We stayed on the Pest side, in a large, American seeming Hilton hotel (next to the railroad station). Hotel was very busy with tour groups, including Viking, and had given us a single room instead of a double. Our tour director wasn’t able to correct it for the first night but did get us access to the Hilton’s VIP area for our 3-night stay. That was fun – we had tea there one afternoon & I went up early one morning to read the New York Times & drink tea before going to breakfast. Great views of the city from its rooftop location.
Daughter and I walked a bit, to try to get our bearings, but we were in a busy area at 5:00, and it was hot.
We then joined an optional excursion arranged by Trafalgar for a Danube evening cruise with dinner and drinks. (Cost 63 Euro per person). We had seats in the cabin while we ate – buffet very good, cold potato and lettuce salads, caviar (my first time to taste it & now I can understand its reputation), and three Hungarian dishes, one was cabbage rolls, one was chicken and another pork, all with paprika, hot and sweet, and sauces). After dinner, we went up on the deck & enjoyed the views of the city while listening to a guide explain something of what we were seeing. Illuminated buildings, especially the huge Parliament, and bridges lovely. Back to hotel by 10:00.
Friday, Budapest Up and out by 9:00 for our half-day tour of the city by a local Hungarian guide. We were bussed most of the way up Castle Hill and then walked on to see the exterior of Matyas Church and on to the turrets and overlooks of Fishermen’s Bastion, for great views across the river into Pest.
It was still cool enough to enjoy the day & even with the crowds, this was a delightful place. Our guide explained that most of the buildings had been reconstructed after heavy damage at the end of WWII. We had about a ˝ hour left when we came down from Fishermen’s Bastion and decided to just walk the cobblestone streets instead of paying to go into Matyas Church. We came to the Church of Mary Magdalene, of which only the 13th century tower and gate remained, in a peaceful spot, away from the crowds.
Later, at the airport, I talked to someone on a Road Scholar tour whose hotel had been up on Castle Hill . . . this would have been wonderful area to explore very early or late in the day, without the crowds.
Next stop was at Heroes Square, a large impressive place with statues relating to the history of Hungary. Our guide explained that this square was conceived as part of the 1896 Millennium Anniversary of Hungary’s founding. Probably would have found it even more interesting if it had not been out in the full sun, with heat reflecting from the pavement, and if not for scaffolding over many of the monuments. Square was on the edge of the inviting, green City Park. We walked on to Gundel Restaurant for a delightful light lunch – enjoyed Gundel’s gardens and the exterior architecture of the nearby Zoo.
Now we were on Trafalgar’s optional excursion to St. Stephen’s Cathedral and Great Synagogue. St. Stephen’s was interesting but admit to being a bit burned out on cathedrals by this time. I liked the mosaics & we did indeed see the “holy right hand” of St. Stephen (medieval king/founder of Hungary). Visit to the Great Synagogue (also known as Dohany Street Synagogue), the largest synagogue in Europe and second largest in the world, may have been the most memorable time of my entire trip. Its Moorish design from mid-1800s was lovely, the Alhambra one of its inspirations.
We had a young guide, a member of the current congregation, who led us into the synagogue where we sat in the pews to hear an overview of the history of the synagogue and of Hungarian Jews (and of the late 19th and 20th century Neolog version of Judaism). Balcony only seating allowed women when synagogue was constructed; synagogue unusual in that Neolog allowed an organ.
Then, our young guide led us outside to a gallery/garden like area adjacent to the synagogue, where many Jews who died of starvation and cold in the ghetto in 1944 and early 1945 are buried. We ended in the Heroes Garden, with its beautiful memorial to the Jewish Hungarian martyrs, a weeping willow “Tree of Life”, with family names engraved on each of the silver leaves and empty spaces where the Ten Commandment tablets should be, symbolizing, our guide said, the time when mankind forgot God. I have never been so moved by any memorial; I feel tears now writing about this. Guide also pointed out the Jewish Museum, adjacent to the memorial park; its building was home to Theodor Herzl in his youth and the memorial to Raoul Wallenberg and other Righteous Gentiles. Again, very moving. We had a few minutes to walk around, to reflect but it was a Friday and Sabbath was coming soon. We were quiet as we got back on the bus and returned to the hotel.
Our evening meal was a “Trafalgar Special”, part of the tour. We went out to a suburban/country area, just outside Budapest, and had a meal at a family winery & restaurant. The meal included a tour of the winery (including sampling) and a story at the end by the owner.
Budapest, SaturdayWoke up several times late in the night to sounds of rain falling and it was still misty when we set out with a smaller Trafalgar group for an optional tour of the Parliament Building. Had quick stop at Shoes on the Danube memorial (another Holocaust memorial, commissioned by the Hungarian government); very moving, empty shoes sculptures commemorating the spot where many Jews were pushed into the river at the beginning of the Hungarian Holocaust.
We had not intended to do this Parliament tour (priced 43 Euros) but at the last moment, decided to add it – were able to see the changing of the guard and then the amazingly large and fancy Parliament building, a testament to Hungary’s power as half of the Austria-Hungary Empire in late 19th/very early 20th century. We also saw a memorial to the martyrs of the 1956 revolution.
Light rain continuing but daughter and I were able to catch the tram to the Great Market with no problems. Fascinating place but we quickly realized our timing was off; farewell dinner provided by Trafalgar for the evening, very little room in suitcase (or life) for souvenirs. We enjoyed the booths, took pictures, marveled at all the paprika and produce, all the embroidery but bought very little other than lunch.
Afternoon was an experience I’m still mulling over – we visited the House of Terror. Rick Steves and our tour guide both highly recommended it. It is a museum and memorial to the victims of both the Nazis and the Communists; it was a former house that was used first by the Hungarian fascist Arrow Cross party, then the German Nazis and then by the Communists as an interrogation center and jail. We stood in line for perhaps 15-20 minutes before gaining entrance. I wasn’t expecting how blunt and honest the museum was about the terror. There were photographs of suspected collaborators and torturers who have never been charged, some still living. There were interviews playing on screens, with details of beatings and death. At one point, we were motioned into a very crowded small space (like an elevator) and the door closed behind us and we were shown a film. I was grateful that I was at the very back; I just had to avert my eyes at times. The basement had the prison cells; the main floor was taken up with a Russian tank. Much of the information was conveyed in handouts; I skimmed those and brought a few home with me to read later. I applaud this museum for its honesty; but do go into it more prepared than I was.
Daughter and I left museum very quiet and serious; we walked on to City Park and the Szechenyi Baths to cheer our spirits. The sun had come out by this time and it was very warm; I’m sorry we didn’t have time once we reached the baths to do a tour of them, much less to go in. But we were able to go to the public parts, which were beautiful with ceramics & mosaics & statutes and to see some of the very crowded outdoor pools. Perhaps a Saturday afternoon not the best time for a visit to the baths, in any case.
Surrounding City Park was nice & we walked back to the hotel along a street lined with trees and “eclectic” architecture, in several different styles. Farewell dinner with our congenial and interesting tour mates – then packing and up the next morning to take a taxi to the airport.
Budapest airport entrance chaotic; several tours (including Viking) had ended at the same time so lots of travelers and it seems the airlines do not open their windows until 2 hours before flight time. We made it to our flight with time to spare, but not with much airport shopping time.
Lots in Budapest that we didn’t have time for – I would have liked to have visited the Jewish Museum & Hungarian National History Museum, seen the Secession works in the National Art Gallery, walked Margaret Island (we almost did this instead of the House of Terror), and gone out to Statue and Memento Park (Communist era statues). But very glad to have seen some of Budapest.
Gyor had a beautiful, huge town hall & a pleasant open feel. Daughter and I went to grocery store for sandwiches and fruit & then headed to the river for a park to enjoy them for an early lunch. (One block from the river, there was a great produce stand & little hot food stands that would have been much better shopping experience.) Park had huge old trees and workmen busy building sidewalks and small amphitheater; town seemed to be thriving.
Back in the bus, this time heading to Esztergom, seat of the Catholic Church in Hungary. We headed straight for the Basilica, the largest church and tallest building in Hungary. (It’s on a steep hill, overlooking the Danube River). My main impression of the church was lots of the color blue & a very large painting. Also remember the tomb of national hero, Cardinal Jozsef Mindszently, imprisoned first by Hungarian Nazis and then after a few months of freedom, imprisoned by the Communists. He was freed during the very brief 1956 Hungarian revolution & then had to take refuge in the American embassy when the revolution was suppressed. Eventually exiled to Vienna, Mindszently’s body was returned to Esztergom for burial only in the early 1990s, when Hungary was again free.
Daughter and I walked on up the hill, above the church, for a great view of the busy river (especially busy with small cruise ships).
On to Budapest, the largest metropolitan area of our three city tour. We stayed on the Pest side, in a large, American seeming Hilton hotel (next to the railroad station). Hotel was very busy with tour groups, including Viking, and had given us a single room instead of a double. Our tour director wasn’t able to correct it for the first night but did get us access to the Hilton’s VIP area for our 3-night stay. That was fun – we had tea there one afternoon & I went up early one morning to read the New York Times & drink tea before going to breakfast. Great views of the city from its rooftop location.
Daughter and I walked a bit, to try to get our bearings, but we were in a busy area at 5:00, and it was hot.
We then joined an optional excursion arranged by Trafalgar for a Danube evening cruise with dinner and drinks. (Cost 63 Euro per person). We had seats in the cabin while we ate – buffet very good, cold potato and lettuce salads, caviar (my first time to taste it & now I can understand its reputation), and three Hungarian dishes, one was cabbage rolls, one was chicken and another pork, all with paprika, hot and sweet, and sauces). After dinner, we went up on the deck & enjoyed the views of the city while listening to a guide explain something of what we were seeing. Illuminated buildings, especially the huge Parliament, and bridges lovely. Back to hotel by 10:00.
Friday, Budapest Up and out by 9:00 for our half-day tour of the city by a local Hungarian guide. We were bussed most of the way up Castle Hill and then walked on to see the exterior of Matyas Church and on to the turrets and overlooks of Fishermen’s Bastion, for great views across the river into Pest.
It was still cool enough to enjoy the day & even with the crowds, this was a delightful place. Our guide explained that most of the buildings had been reconstructed after heavy damage at the end of WWII. We had about a ˝ hour left when we came down from Fishermen’s Bastion and decided to just walk the cobblestone streets instead of paying to go into Matyas Church. We came to the Church of Mary Magdalene, of which only the 13th century tower and gate remained, in a peaceful spot, away from the crowds.
Later, at the airport, I talked to someone on a Road Scholar tour whose hotel had been up on Castle Hill . . . this would have been wonderful area to explore very early or late in the day, without the crowds.
Next stop was at Heroes Square, a large impressive place with statues relating to the history of Hungary. Our guide explained that this square was conceived as part of the 1896 Millennium Anniversary of Hungary’s founding. Probably would have found it even more interesting if it had not been out in the full sun, with heat reflecting from the pavement, and if not for scaffolding over many of the monuments. Square was on the edge of the inviting, green City Park. We walked on to Gundel Restaurant for a delightful light lunch – enjoyed Gundel’s gardens and the exterior architecture of the nearby Zoo.
Now we were on Trafalgar’s optional excursion to St. Stephen’s Cathedral and Great Synagogue. St. Stephen’s was interesting but admit to being a bit burned out on cathedrals by this time. I liked the mosaics & we did indeed see the “holy right hand” of St. Stephen (medieval king/founder of Hungary). Visit to the Great Synagogue (also known as Dohany Street Synagogue), the largest synagogue in Europe and second largest in the world, may have been the most memorable time of my entire trip. Its Moorish design from mid-1800s was lovely, the Alhambra one of its inspirations.
We had a young guide, a member of the current congregation, who led us into the synagogue where we sat in the pews to hear an overview of the history of the synagogue and of Hungarian Jews (and of the late 19th and 20th century Neolog version of Judaism). Balcony only seating allowed women when synagogue was constructed; synagogue unusual in that Neolog allowed an organ.
Then, our young guide led us outside to a gallery/garden like area adjacent to the synagogue, where many Jews who died of starvation and cold in the ghetto in 1944 and early 1945 are buried. We ended in the Heroes Garden, with its beautiful memorial to the Jewish Hungarian martyrs, a weeping willow “Tree of Life”, with family names engraved on each of the silver leaves and empty spaces where the Ten Commandment tablets should be, symbolizing, our guide said, the time when mankind forgot God. I have never been so moved by any memorial; I feel tears now writing about this. Guide also pointed out the Jewish Museum, adjacent to the memorial park; its building was home to Theodor Herzl in his youth and the memorial to Raoul Wallenberg and other Righteous Gentiles. Again, very moving. We had a few minutes to walk around, to reflect but it was a Friday and Sabbath was coming soon. We were quiet as we got back on the bus and returned to the hotel.
Our evening meal was a “Trafalgar Special”, part of the tour. We went out to a suburban/country area, just outside Budapest, and had a meal at a family winery & restaurant. The meal included a tour of the winery (including sampling) and a story at the end by the owner.
Budapest, SaturdayWoke up several times late in the night to sounds of rain falling and it was still misty when we set out with a smaller Trafalgar group for an optional tour of the Parliament Building. Had quick stop at Shoes on the Danube memorial (another Holocaust memorial, commissioned by the Hungarian government); very moving, empty shoes sculptures commemorating the spot where many Jews were pushed into the river at the beginning of the Hungarian Holocaust.
We had not intended to do this Parliament tour (priced 43 Euros) but at the last moment, decided to add it – were able to see the changing of the guard and then the amazingly large and fancy Parliament building, a testament to Hungary’s power as half of the Austria-Hungary Empire in late 19th/very early 20th century. We also saw a memorial to the martyrs of the 1956 revolution.
Light rain continuing but daughter and I were able to catch the tram to the Great Market with no problems. Fascinating place but we quickly realized our timing was off; farewell dinner provided by Trafalgar for the evening, very little room in suitcase (or life) for souvenirs. We enjoyed the booths, took pictures, marveled at all the paprika and produce, all the embroidery but bought very little other than lunch.
Afternoon was an experience I’m still mulling over – we visited the House of Terror. Rick Steves and our tour guide both highly recommended it. It is a museum and memorial to the victims of both the Nazis and the Communists; it was a former house that was used first by the Hungarian fascist Arrow Cross party, then the German Nazis and then by the Communists as an interrogation center and jail. We stood in line for perhaps 15-20 minutes before gaining entrance. I wasn’t expecting how blunt and honest the museum was about the terror. There were photographs of suspected collaborators and torturers who have never been charged, some still living. There were interviews playing on screens, with details of beatings and death. At one point, we were motioned into a very crowded small space (like an elevator) and the door closed behind us and we were shown a film. I was grateful that I was at the very back; I just had to avert my eyes at times. The basement had the prison cells; the main floor was taken up with a Russian tank. Much of the information was conveyed in handouts; I skimmed those and brought a few home with me to read later. I applaud this museum for its honesty; but do go into it more prepared than I was.
Daughter and I left museum very quiet and serious; we walked on to City Park and the Szechenyi Baths to cheer our spirits. The sun had come out by this time and it was very warm; I’m sorry we didn’t have time once we reached the baths to do a tour of them, much less to go in. But we were able to go to the public parts, which were beautiful with ceramics & mosaics & statutes and to see some of the very crowded outdoor pools. Perhaps a Saturday afternoon not the best time for a visit to the baths, in any case.
Surrounding City Park was nice & we walked back to the hotel along a street lined with trees and “eclectic” architecture, in several different styles. Farewell dinner with our congenial and interesting tour mates – then packing and up the next morning to take a taxi to the airport.
Budapest airport entrance chaotic; several tours (including Viking) had ended at the same time so lots of travelers and it seems the airlines do not open their windows until 2 hours before flight time. We made it to our flight with time to spare, but not with much airport shopping time.
Lots in Budapest that we didn’t have time for – I would have liked to have visited the Jewish Museum & Hungarian National History Museum, seen the Secession works in the National Art Gallery, walked Margaret Island (we almost did this instead of the House of Terror), and gone out to Statue and Memento Park (Communist era statues). But very glad to have seen some of Budapest.
Last edited by CLBtravel; Jul 15th, 2018 at 01:39 PM. Reason: spacing
Jul 16th, 2018, 09:00 AM
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Your report was so well written, I almost felt as if I was traveling with you. As I mentioned in an earlier paragraph, my husband and I leave tomorrow for the same cities in reverse. Thank you for the wonderful chronicling, where will you travel to next?
Jul 18th, 2018, 06:26 AM
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Thanks, 3Gnhgirl. I hope you have a great trip and post your highlights when you return. I'm thinking about Morocco for next year. Or maybe southern France or northern Ireland. Or Amsterdam and Bruges. All places I've never been. My daughter is a teacher so we try to go as soon as her school is out, in early June. I envy folks who travel during fall and spring. I may also go to Seattle in January for a conference and try to be a tourist there for a day or two. Another place I've never visited.
Jul 18th, 2018, 07:06 AM
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Lovely TR, CLB, I really enjoyed your descriptions of your activities and your musings about them. We only spent 3 nights in Budapest and that was about 10 years ago in between Christmas and New year but we enjoyed it very much. I'd certainly like to go back to Hungary one day.
Jul 23rd, 2018, 08:41 PM
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Thank you for your report. It was an interesting read, and really nice that you had this travel opportunity with your daughter.
I have been to Prague and Vienna and it was good to hear about what you saw. If you do make it back to Prague, consider visiting the Strahov Monastery to see their library.
I have been to Prague and Vienna and it was good to hear about what you saw. If you do make it back to Prague, consider visiting the Strahov Monastery to see their library.
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