Prague trip report.....

Nov 24th, 2002, 04:58 PM
  #21  
Huh?
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This sounds like a gastronomy trip and a review of restaurants for Sauveur. Did you just go to Prague for the restaurants and to review them here? Did you do anything but dine in restaurants? You've certainly reviewed Prague from a different point of view.
 
Nov 24th, 2002, 06:59 PM
  #22  
xxx
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Gee Huh, haven't you read this trip report? There are all kinds of things described that aren't food related.

Keep going Mark. Very interesting reading (even if you do make my mouth water)
 
Nov 24th, 2002, 09:22 PM
  #23  
mark
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I did see/do a lot of generic tourista stuff while in Prague - things that any traveler will see, despite yay or nay opinions. Being that it's my first visit to Prague I wanted to talk about things that really impressed me. Cuisine has always given me an in-road to a culture. If I come across like some snobby Zagat foodie - I'm not - I'll go anywhere for a well prepared meal - be it foie gras or rice and beans. And let's be real - it's easy to talk about food. Anyway Huh - maybe one day I will write for Sauveur - keep reading....
 
Nov 24th, 2002, 09:40 PM
  #24  
mark
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Thanks triple x......
 
Nov 24th, 2002, 10:14 PM
  #25  
mark
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For dinner I had reservations at Sarah Bernhardt, located in the Hotel Pariz. It is an elegant, restrained art nouveau space - dark turquoise mosaic tiles with highlights of gold, a piano player, a staff waiting to please. I started off with a poultry terrine with foie gras served on a honey sauce. Next dish was wild duck salami, marinated plums and balsamic dressing. Main dish was doe medallions with hot cherries and almonds brocollli with creamed potatoes. For wine I had a Svatovar Inecke Barrique, 1999 - competent, nothing extraordinary. Desert was fine. As I sat next to the window I watched couples walk by, the leaves blown about by the wind - very romantic.

http://www.hotel-pariz.cz/menu_en.html

Afterwards I stopped off at a bar that I had been visiting frequently during my stay in Prague - Zansi, located in the Mala Strana, Lazenska 6, Praha 1 - an easy going bar, a mixed laid back crowd, lots of local flavor.
 
Nov 25th, 2002, 01:57 PM
  #26  
Julie
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Thanks for such a wonderful report. We were in Prague last spring and enjoyed it very much. Your report helps me remember just how much. Yearning to return. Next time you go, if you haven't already, make some trips into the Czech countryside as well. We found the small towns and the open country wonderful, and so unspoiled. Lovely.
 
Nov 25th, 2002, 02:32 PM
  #27  
MJN
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Ten years ago in Prague all we could find to eat were meat and bread dumplings...
 
Nov 25th, 2002, 02:43 PM
  #28  
mark
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October 28
Woke up early to cloudy skies with intermittent sprinkles, mild temp. Being that my flight didn't depart till noon I still had a bit of the morning to walk around one last time. I went back to the South Garden at the Castle for
one last look over Prague. Went back to the hotel - checked out - grabbed a cab to the airport. A small rainstorm rolled through which delayed our flight. As we were ascending I looked out over the rolling green countryside - the sunlight streaming through the clouds - and it struck me how pastoral the Czech countryside looks - almost suspended in another time.

Landed in NYC that afternoon, picked up my dog at the kennel and then stopped off at my favorite Mexican place to get something to go.
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 08:40 AM
  #29  
Frank
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Mark
Great report and wonderful descriptions of the food. Just one quibble--seven days, 14 lunches and dinners, in Prague and......one beer???
It's like staying in Beaune for a week and drinking cider. I'm sure this is because you are not a beer lover, but if there was ever a place to branch out, it's the Czech Republic.No worries, though I'll try to remedy that deficiency next year, but I won't be able to do the food like you do. Cheers!
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 09:27 AM
  #30  
pat
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Mark, Question about your hotel room. What room did you stay in? Would it accomodate 3 people, 2 in the Queen bed and the daughter on the couch?
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 09:59 AM
  #31  
mark
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I know Frank - one beer, and that was drank mainly because my co-worker lived and worked in Prague for a couple years - he loves Czech beer. I enjoy a peach Lambic beer on a hot summer afternoon, a Murphy's stout anytime and Singha (sp?) with my tai or indonesian but my beer drinking days were mainly during college. I'll work on developing a palate for beer when I visit Belgium. Most of the Czech red wines were enjoyable but not exceptional. The czech whites were much better - and I'm not a big white wine lover.
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 10:06 AM
  #32  
mark
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Pat -
Depends upon the age of your daughter - it was more a love seat than a regular couch. The hotel is fairly new - a restored building. My room was around $125 a night. I stayed 7 nights - one night was free, booked through TravelCook. The hotel also has a garage and a small restaurant. Breakfast was included with my room. My only quibble is that the hotel is a bit further up from the Bridge (than I thought when looking at the map) but when exploring the Castle and surrounding area was perfectly located.

If your looking for hotel near the Charles Bridge try the Hotel Certovka. It is temporarily closed right now due to flooding. Great spot but when the crowds return to Prague I would be concerned about noise.

Web site: http://www.certovka.cz/en_certovka.htm
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 10:27 AM
  #33  
Michelle
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Just had to comment on this trip report: Wonderfully written, Mark. Please travel again so that we all may read about your adventures (whether food or otherwise...).
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 10:38 AM
  #34  
mark
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Some final thoughts:

Weather
Weather was a mixed bag - one day grey and light drizzle, another day blue skies and fluffy white clouds. It was comfortable chilly - I had brought silk undergarments just in case but didn’t need them. Bring an umbrella or buy one there. When I arrived the hills were still decked out in autumnal colors - bright yellows, oranges, deep reds. As the week progressed the colors shifted more towards browns as the trees lost their leaves. I hesitant calling it rain - it was more light drizzle - never a torrential downpour, except once. The drizzle would pass, sometimes yielding to sunshine. The city dried itself off quite quickly. A full moon over Prague is wonderfully atmospheric. I enjoyed experiencing the fall season in Prague.

The City, itself.
The metro is not working but I found it unnecessary if you’re visiting. The city is compact enough to leisurely walk from Letna Park to Vischerad in a few hours. I didn’t even ride any trams due to the easability of walking. Yes there are some restaurants, stores and hotels that are still closed due to flooding. However, numerous businesses have already reopened - all spiffy and clean with a staff eager to please. Numerous cellar restaurants/ businesses in the Old Town, near the Vlata, were flooded yet above ground businesses were unaffected. Kampa Island is opened to foot traffic. Car traffic was not overwhelming - I was able to cross busy intersections without any problem. The city is amazingly clean - even with all the dog owners. It was a bit difficult to locate ATMs at first - there are plenty of cash exchangers, which I never used. There are numerous bohemia cut glass shops. The locals were saying that tourism is down - by 80%. Lots of Germans - a sprinkling of Japanese, Italians and British. Go while Prague isn’t overwhelmed with tourists. Some sidewalks are being recobbled and the tram line in Stare Mesto near the Charles Bridge was being relaid, but very quickly (NYC transit should take note). In retrospect I wish there had been just a few more visitors - the mood was still rather somber.

Misc.
I’ll definitely visit Prague one late spring ( I’m sure the gardens are gorgeous) and during winter (to see Prague covered in snow). Next time I will make sure to attend a concert or two - especially at the Municpal House. While I did visit many of the standard must-sees, I didn’t get to visit as many palaces as I would have liked. I had brought along a small sketch book to draw which I thoroughly enjoyed - it brought my trip to a deeper level. I’ll definitely get out to the countryside next visit. If I could only recommend one thing to do in Prague: Letna Park, the view of Prague is spectacular.
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 10:40 AM
  #35  
mark
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Thanks Michelle....
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 03:47 PM
  #36  
Michelle
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You're quite welcome, Mark. Do you happen to be a writer?
 
Nov 26th, 2002, 06:34 PM
  #37  
mark
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I'm an art director right now. I'm working to segue into travel/food writing. I'm good at facts, I just need to learn how to weave it all together in a more palatable fashion. Are you staying here in the City for the holidays? I am. I love the City on holidays. And the possibilty of snow for Thanksgiving. When I moved here in 1989 it snowed on Thanksgiving day.
 
Dec 4th, 2002, 03:54 PM
  #38  
mark
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topping for Lynn
 
Dec 6th, 2002, 06:48 AM
  #39  
crusty
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Mark, Great information!
We leave for Prague December 21 and will stay 8 nights. After reading your report I was just one click away form making reservations at The Black Roaster but remembered that my girlfriend is a vegetarian. No fois gras or “fish heads” for her.... I can't get enough of the stuff. Will the Black Roaster do? What is plan B?

 
Dec 7th, 2002, 04:41 PM
  #40  
mark
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I didn't eat any fish heads - but after two bottles of wine....Anyway, email the Black Rooster and tell them your girlfriend is a vegetarian and do they have other veg. dishes besides salads. I found the restaurant very accomodating. Think of going for lunch instead of dinner - though I've not been for lunch - out in the woods could be nice, especially if it has snowed. Send them an email - an ask. It's a great restaurant.
 

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