Potential return trip to Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina
I am still going to Koper, but only to meet my driver. Not spending the night. An extra night in Ljubljana... yeah!
Mar 9th, 2015, 10:28 AM
#62
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Yeah, I may not necessarily make it to Koper, either. I'm trying to keep my plans flexible. If Slovenia has really nice weather when I arrive, I'd love to drive up to Logarska Dolina for the day, but if the weather is rainy, I don't see much point in that. I may head to the coast early, maybe to Rovinj a day early. We'll see! Keep me posted on your plans.
Mar 13th, 2015, 12:30 PM
#63
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Now I'm thinking of chopping off most of the Slovenia portion from the beginning of my trip. I had originally imagined 3 nights, 2 in Ljubljana and one elsewhere (probably Koper), renting a car, and driving maybe up to Logarska Dolina, Kamnik, etc. But I think it's too much to do right after my arrival in Europe, to do a lot of driving my second day and then having a lot more in Croatia for two more weeks. And it seems too rushed. I could probably spend a week in this area in the future. And I've already been to Slovenia.
Instead, I'm thinking of just the first night in Ljubljana, then the next afternoon taking the direct train to Opatija and spending a night there. Then three nights in Rovinj. That adds another night between Rovinj and Sarajevo and will make the drive down to Kotor a little more relaxed.
Originally, Opatija held out little appeal for me as a place to visit at all. But as I read about it, I think the walk along the Lungomare between Opatija, Volosko, and Lovran sounds fun. Then after the night in Opatija I could have a leisurely day getting to Rovinj, maybe even starting in Pula, exploring the Roman ruins and the old town for a few hours, and picking up my car there. And that direct afternoon train from Ljubljana to Opatija sounds a lot more appealing than a long bus ride from Ljubljana to Rovinj.
(I see from the archives that kja hated Opatija but yorkshire and others at least liked the town, even if not LOVED it. I imagine I'll be somewhere in the middle too - expectations are important! I don't have to love Opatija as long as the Lungomare is nice.)
At least I'll have one night back in Ljubljana. As much as I loved the town on past visits, I don't necessarily need a ton of time back there.
Instead, I'm thinking of just the first night in Ljubljana, then the next afternoon taking the direct train to Opatija and spending a night there. Then three nights in Rovinj. That adds another night between Rovinj and Sarajevo and will make the drive down to Kotor a little more relaxed.
Originally, Opatija held out little appeal for me as a place to visit at all. But as I read about it, I think the walk along the Lungomare between Opatija, Volosko, and Lovran sounds fun. Then after the night in Opatija I could have a leisurely day getting to Rovinj, maybe even starting in Pula, exploring the Roman ruins and the old town for a few hours, and picking up my car there. And that direct afternoon train from Ljubljana to Opatija sounds a lot more appealing than a long bus ride from Ljubljana to Rovinj.
(I see from the archives that kja hated Opatija but yorkshire and others at least liked the town, even if not LOVED it. I imagine I'll be somewhere in the middle too - expectations are important! I don't have to love Opatija as long as the Lungomare is nice.)
At least I'll have one night back in Ljubljana. As much as I loved the town on past visits, I don't necessarily need a ton of time back there.
Apr 6th, 2015, 01:02 PM
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As an update (if anyone is still reading), I have now booked my car to pick up in Rijeka, immediately after I arrive from Slovenia. The direct train from Ljubljana to Opatija goes on to Rijeka. I figure I might as well just pick up the car first thing to give myself maximum flexibility. The car (with Fleet - via EconomyCarRentals) is ridiculously cheap: only about $16/day, and that includes a roughly $70 fee to drive the car out of Croatia.
But now I'm thinking of re-arranging my itinerary after Istria. Instead of driving directly south toward Zadar, now I'm thinking of driving NE past Zagreb and directly to Banja Luka in Bosnia, then on to Sarajevo, Kotor, etc. Basically it's doing the same stuff but counter-clockwise.
The main reason I think I'd like to do this is to get the more challenging stuff (driving through small towns in Bosnia) done earlier in the trip, when I tend to have more energy. And, if I really dig the small towns, maybe I'll slow it down and take more time. Plus, original plan is to drive from Banja Luka the last day to Zagreb airport - estimated to be a two hour drive by Google Maps, but with the border crossing, who knows? I imagine things can be delayed on occasion - and now that this is an EU border, maybe it's more complicated, even if usually quick?
Doing it in the opposite direction would put me Zadar on that last night instead. Depart from Zagreb late in the afternoon should be easy: only about a 3 hour drive from Zadar on the A1, which I've driven before, an easy, boring freeway. There's even an easyJet flight from Split directly to Amsterdam that I wasn't aware of before, leaving that very day I'd need it. But I've already bought the KLM flight out of Zagreb. And I don't want to change the rental car again - already have more than a few times...
I suppose I can just decide when I arrive which direction I want to drive it, perhaps based on the weather forecast, as long as I can re-book any pre-booked hotels easily. Shouldn't be too busy in May.
But now I'm thinking of re-arranging my itinerary after Istria. Instead of driving directly south toward Zadar, now I'm thinking of driving NE past Zagreb and directly to Banja Luka in Bosnia, then on to Sarajevo, Kotor, etc. Basically it's doing the same stuff but counter-clockwise.
The main reason I think I'd like to do this is to get the more challenging stuff (driving through small towns in Bosnia) done earlier in the trip, when I tend to have more energy. And, if I really dig the small towns, maybe I'll slow it down and take more time. Plus, original plan is to drive from Banja Luka the last day to Zagreb airport - estimated to be a two hour drive by Google Maps, but with the border crossing, who knows? I imagine things can be delayed on occasion - and now that this is an EU border, maybe it's more complicated, even if usually quick?
Doing it in the opposite direction would put me Zadar on that last night instead. Depart from Zagreb late in the afternoon should be easy: only about a 3 hour drive from Zadar on the A1, which I've driven before, an easy, boring freeway. There's even an easyJet flight from Split directly to Amsterdam that I wasn't aware of before, leaving that very day I'd need it. But I've already bought the KLM flight out of Zagreb. And I don't want to change the rental car again - already have more than a few times...
I suppose I can just decide when I arrive which direction I want to drive it, perhaps based on the weather forecast, as long as I can re-book any pre-booked hotels easily. Shouldn't be too busy in May.
Apr 6th, 2015, 05:23 PM
#65
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So if I understand you correctly, you're thinking you might do Slovenia >> Rijeka to pick up car >> to Istria >> to Banja Luka >> Jajce, Travnik, etc. >> Sarajevo >> Mostar >> Sibinek >> Zadar >> Zagreb
Is this correct?
Having that rental car really gives you the advantage of flexibility so you can change as you want.
Good luck! No matter where the wind blows you I'm sure you'll have a fabulous adventure.
Is this correct?
Having that rental car really gives you the advantage of flexibility so you can change as you want.
Good luck! No matter where the wind blows you I'm sure you'll have a fabulous adventure.
Apr 6th, 2015, 08:57 PM
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Yes, geenance, that's the plan - well, plan B. Plan A was Istria, Zadar, Sibenik, Krka, Kotor, Mostar, Sarajevo, Jajce, Banja Luka, Zagreb.
The biggest reason for me not to use public transportation is the ability to take pictures in Bosnia, really. Julia and others say the scenery is spectacular. I remember a similar experience in Slovenia where, on the drive between Skofja Loka and Bled, I got out of the car probably ten times (over probably less than an hour drive) to take pictures. A bus just wouldn't have worked.
kja, I remembered your earlier warning about Rijeka traffic and I will keep it in mind. I'd be picking up the car about 18:30 but going only to Opatija that first evening not too far away. Traffic may not be fun, but trying to take buses just to avoid it doesn't seem to make much sense, either. I think I'll just take my chances. I'm sure I'm going to hit some traffic here and there over my two weeks.
The biggest reason for me not to use public transportation is the ability to take pictures in Bosnia, really. Julia and others say the scenery is spectacular. I remember a similar experience in Slovenia where, on the drive between Skofja Loka and Bled, I got out of the car probably ten times (over probably less than an hour drive) to take pictures. A bus just wouldn't have worked.
kja, I remembered your earlier warning about Rijeka traffic and I will keep it in mind. I'd be picking up the car about 18:30 but going only to Opatija that first evening not too far away. Traffic may not be fun, but trying to take buses just to avoid it doesn't seem to make much sense, either. I think I'll just take my chances. I'm sure I'm going to hit some traffic here and there over my two weeks.
Apr 7th, 2015, 11:46 AM
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rialtogrl, as of now I plan to get to Rovinj by the 30th in the afternoon, as I'll be coming into Rijeka from Slovenia on the afternoon of the 29th and planning to sleep in Opatija. Will you still be in town by then?
kja, I don't have high expectations for Opatija. It seems a practical place to stay after getting in from Slovenia. I've considered driving right to Rovinj instead, now that I'm going to have a car right away. But I thought I might enjoy a walk on the Lungomare if the weather is nice.
kja, I don't have high expectations for Opatija. It seems a practical place to stay after getting in from Slovenia. I've considered driving right to Rovinj instead, now that I'm going to have a car right away. But I thought I might enjoy a walk on the Lungomare if the weather is nice.
Apr 8th, 2015, 03:00 AM
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Andrew I can tell you that Opatija is much improved over the last 4/5 years, but instead of staying in the town centre, we prefer to stay in one of the villages on the Lungomare.
To maximise your short time in the area, I would stay in Volosko, walk along the Lungomare (we did it last week) as far as you feel like at the time and then jump on the local bus to return if your legs are heavy.
The great thing about bus 32 is that it runs frequently alongside the Lungomare in both directions, with stops not far apart.
To maximise your short time in the area, I would stay in Volosko, walk along the Lungomare (we did it last week) as far as you feel like at the time and then jump on the local bus to return if your legs are heavy.
The great thing about bus 32 is that it runs frequently alongside the Lungomare in both directions, with stops not far apart.
Apr 8th, 2015, 11:50 AM
#73
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It would be great to meet you, rialtogrl, but I understand you won't be in Rovinj to meet American tourists. ;-) Don't worry about it if you can't work it out. I will probably be busy too - out taking pictures, chasing sunsets, etc.
Thanks for the feedback on Opatija, Malvacya. I imagine it's still not the kind of town I'd love but that's OK. I don't have to fall in love with every town I visit. I have considered staying in the neighboring towns instead - and with a car, that should be easy. I do see that Volosko seems all booked up even mid-week at the end of April according to Booking.com. Using say AirBnB doesn't seem to make sense for such a short stay...
Thanks for the feedback on Opatija, Malvacya. I imagine it's still not the kind of town I'd love but that's OK. I don't have to fall in love with every town I visit. I have considered staying in the neighboring towns instead - and with a car, that should be easy. I do see that Volosko seems all booked up even mid-week at the end of April according to Booking.com. Using say AirBnB doesn't seem to make sense for such a short stay...
Apr 8th, 2015, 01:16 PM
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I am big fan of AirBnB but there is a good choice on the local Tourist Board website, www.opatija-apartments.com.hr
Apr 17th, 2015, 05:55 PM
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Andrew and rialtogrl,
It's almost launch time. Will each of you be posting about your travels during your trip? I would love to hear how your trips progress.
We are flying to Sarajevo on the red eye, landing Monday April 27. I highly doubt we will cross paths, based on our respective itineraries. I'm no sure I will be posting very much during our travels, as I will only be bringing my smartphone and I don't like typing long entries on it. No doubt I won't be able to resist posting something though!
Safe travels!
It's almost launch time. Will each of you be posting about your travels during your trip? I would love to hear how your trips progress.
We are flying to Sarajevo on the red eye, landing Monday April 27. I highly doubt we will cross paths, based on our respective itineraries. I'm no sure I will be posting very much during our travels, as I will only be bringing my smartphone and I don't like typing long entries on it. No doubt I won't be able to resist posting something though!
Safe travels!
Apr 17th, 2015, 06:36 PM
#76
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I arrive in Ljubljana the after you will arrive in Sarajevo. I may be in Sarajevo as early as May 4, but it sounds like I'll miss you by a day or two. With luck I may get to meet up with rialtogrl in Rovinj.
I will be online while I'm traveling. Not sure how much I will be posting on Fodor's - maybe a little. If you discover anything great I should see in Sarajevo a few days later, feel free to post it here if you have time!
Have a great time! We can compare notes upon our return.
I will be online while I'm traveling. Not sure how much I will be posting on Fodor's - maybe a little. If you discover anything great I should see in Sarajevo a few days later, feel free to post it here if you have time!
Have a great time! We can compare notes upon our return.
May 15th, 2015, 06:30 PM
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I will write a full trip report later. Suffice to say, here's what I wound up doing:
Fly to Amsterdam
Fly from Amsterdam to Venice, DRD shuttle to Ljubljana
Ljubljana (1 night)
Train to Rijeka
Pick up rental car, drive to Rovinj
Rovinj (2 nights)
Day trip to hill towns: Groznjan (my favorite), Motovun, Zaversje, and Buje.
Drive to Lovan
Lovan (1 night)
Spend an hour exploring Optaija
Drive to Zadar
Zadar (1 night)
Drive to Krka National Park, spend a few hours at Skradinski Buk
Drive to Sibenik, spend a few hours
Drive to Trogir
Trogir (1 night)
Drive toward Dubrovnik, detour into Bosnia to the town of Ljubuški to visit Kravice Waterfall
Drive to Dubrovnik
Local bus day/evening trip into old town of Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik (Lapad) (1 night)
Drive to Montenegro (Kotor)
Kotor (1 night)
Drive to Cetinje via Njeguši (twisty mountain drive with amazing views of Bay of Kotor)
Drive back to Trebinje, BiH
Trebinje (1 night)
Drive toward Sarajevo via Mostar
Stop at Blagaj Tekke / Dervish House
Stop at Konjic
Drive to Sarajevo
Sarajevo (3 nights)
Drive to Travnik
Few hours to explore Travnik
Drive to Jajce
Jajce (1 night)
Drive to partway up road to Banja Luka (scenery)
Drive back to Una National Park, see Štrbački Buk waterfall
Drive to Bihać - quick walk-around tour
Drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park
Plitvice Lakes (1 night)
Visit Plitvice
Drive to Samobor (town near Zagreb)
Samobor (1 night)
Fly from Zagreb to Amsterdam
Amsterdam (1 night)
Fly home.
Fly to Amsterdam
Fly from Amsterdam to Venice, DRD shuttle to Ljubljana
Ljubljana (1 night)
Train to Rijeka
Pick up rental car, drive to Rovinj
Rovinj (2 nights)
Day trip to hill towns: Groznjan (my favorite), Motovun, Zaversje, and Buje.
Drive to Lovan
Lovan (1 night)
Spend an hour exploring Optaija
Drive to Zadar
Zadar (1 night)
Drive to Krka National Park, spend a few hours at Skradinski Buk
Drive to Sibenik, spend a few hours
Drive to Trogir
Trogir (1 night)
Drive toward Dubrovnik, detour into Bosnia to the town of Ljubuški to visit Kravice Waterfall
Drive to Dubrovnik
Local bus day/evening trip into old town of Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik (Lapad) (1 night)
Drive to Montenegro (Kotor)
Kotor (1 night)
Drive to Cetinje via Njeguši (twisty mountain drive with amazing views of Bay of Kotor)
Drive back to Trebinje, BiH
Trebinje (1 night)
Drive toward Sarajevo via Mostar
Stop at Blagaj Tekke / Dervish House
Stop at Konjic
Drive to Sarajevo
Sarajevo (3 nights)
Drive to Travnik
Few hours to explore Travnik
Drive to Jajce
Jajce (1 night)
Drive to partway up road to Banja Luka (scenery)
Drive back to Una National Park, see Štrbački Buk waterfall
Drive to Bihać - quick walk-around tour
Drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park
Plitvice Lakes (1 night)
Visit Plitvice
Drive to Samobor (town near Zagreb)
Samobor (1 night)
Fly from Zagreb to Amsterdam
Amsterdam (1 night)
Fly home.
May 15th, 2015, 06:35 PM
#78
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I wound up seeing more waterfalls than expected (dozens if you count Plitvice Lakes). I hadn't planned necessarily to stay over in Trogir, Dubrovnik, or Plitvice Lakes (I'd been to the latter two before), but it just worked out that way. I booked most of my hotels and B&Bs (usually with Booking.com) less than 24 hours ahead, sometimes 1-2 hours ahead. Sometimes I simply drove into town and asked for availability/rates at the hotel front desk - it wasn't a busy time, and I never had trouble finding places, often at great prices. This is one great benefit to having a rental car: you can be flexible and stay anywhere you like.
I did a lot of driving - probably 900+ miles, haven't added it up yet, but it rarely felt like a burden as it was split up over two weeks. I had a break from driving while in Sarajevo (didn't move the car for three days) but oddly felt more weary while there than anywhere else.
Weather was mostly decent - a few rainy days, a few slightly overcast days, plenty of partly/mostly sunny days, but sadly I saw only one actual sunset (in Rovinj) into the Adriatic.
I never made it to Banja Luka - it was always on the itinerary because I expected to be passing through, but when I decided to visit Una National Park I found myself a few hours south of Banja Luka and decided to visit nearby Plitvice again (I'd been once already in 2009) because I was so close - and I'm glad I did. Plitvice is an amazing place, worth seeing again.
The highlights for me were Rovinj and Montenegro (not necessarily Kotor but the scenery around the Bay, which was stunning). Sibenik was a great town, very worth at least a short visit. Walking the Lungomare promenade from Lovran, even after it had just rained, was a lot more fun than expected - must be amazing in nice weather. I enjoyed my brief return visits to Ljubljana, Dubrovnik, and Plitvice more than expected. Jajce and Trebinje Bih and Samobor, Croatia were great little towns in which to overnight - not very touristy but interesting. Sarajevo's history was amazing, but I found the city too touristy and didn't warm to it.
Taking the train from Ljubljana to Rijeka to pick up the rental car worked really well for me - it let me have the afternoon in Ljubljana and take a train (instead of taking a long bus ride in the morning to Rovinj) and then have only just over an hour drive on to Rovinj from Rijeka.
I did a lot of driving - probably 900+ miles, haven't added it up yet, but it rarely felt like a burden as it was split up over two weeks. I had a break from driving while in Sarajevo (didn't move the car for three days) but oddly felt more weary while there than anywhere else.
Weather was mostly decent - a few rainy days, a few slightly overcast days, plenty of partly/mostly sunny days, but sadly I saw only one actual sunset (in Rovinj) into the Adriatic.
I never made it to Banja Luka - it was always on the itinerary because I expected to be passing through, but when I decided to visit Una National Park I found myself a few hours south of Banja Luka and decided to visit nearby Plitvice again (I'd been once already in 2009) because I was so close - and I'm glad I did. Plitvice is an amazing place, worth seeing again.
The highlights for me were Rovinj and Montenegro (not necessarily Kotor but the scenery around the Bay, which was stunning). Sibenik was a great town, very worth at least a short visit. Walking the Lungomare promenade from Lovran, even after it had just rained, was a lot more fun than expected - must be amazing in nice weather. I enjoyed my brief return visits to Ljubljana, Dubrovnik, and Plitvice more than expected. Jajce and Trebinje Bih and Samobor, Croatia were great little towns in which to overnight - not very touristy but interesting. Sarajevo's history was amazing, but I found the city too touristy and didn't warm to it.
Taking the train from Ljubljana to Rijeka to pick up the rental car worked really well for me - it let me have the afternoon in Ljubljana and take a train (instead of taking a long bus ride in the morning to Rovinj) and then have only just over an hour drive on to Rovinj from Rijeka.
May 15th, 2015, 06:49 PM
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Andrew, I can't wait to hear more details, and see some photos, of your trip. In particular I would love to hear more about Jacje, Trebinje and Samobor. (The latter location is near and dear to a close colleague/friend's heart.)
I had thought we might at least make it to Travnik for a day trip from Sarajevo, but, alas (I love that word) we never got up enough energy to take the bus there. We stayed very close, perhaps too close, to the regular tourist trail.
Waiting somewhat patiently,
geenance
I had thought we might at least make it to Travnik for a day trip from Sarajevo, but, alas (I love that word) we never got up enough energy to take the bus there. We stayed very close, perhaps too close, to the regular tourist trail.
Waiting somewhat patiently,
geenance
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