jft

My family of 6 adults(4 in their 20s) will be staying in an apartment in Positano(near Costantino restaurant) for 4 nights mid May. I am looking into how best to use the limited time while there.
I am looking into a boat trip around the island of Capri- what is the best scenario....is it best to take the ferry to Capri and then a boat trip around the island ( could be private for the 6 or join a small group) or are there boats that can be picked up in Positano that circle the island that are not a small fortune? The only ferry time I can see presently is at 10 am- I don't think the May schedule is available at this time. How rough is the boat ride mid-May? I am thinking the island itself will be so crowded with tourists during the day that its better to see from the water. I can be convinced otherwise. Is this trip worth doing?
We would like to do The Path of the Gods walk or at least part of it. Where is it best to start and finish....
I am thinking taking the ferry to Amalfi at least one direction would be a nice way to see the coast from the water.
When we leave Positano we will be going to Matera ( driving a Fiat van). I am thinking we could make a detour to Paestum. Is it best to backtrack to Sorrento and pick up the highway or take the Amalfi coast route ( worried that one will be a rough drive)? How long would it take to see the museum and the temples? I know that this can vary with interest but a rough range would be useful in figuring out our day ( It would be Wednesday May 18).
I am thinking it would be good to see the coast from the water so possibly taking the ferry to Amalfi and then the bus up to Ravello..... I hope to avoid using the van if driving is so difficult.
Any further suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!

kja

Boats to and around Capri will depend on the weather. I don't see any advantage to making arrangements for a boat from Positano -- I'd wait until I reached Capri, but that's just me. And while I enjoyed a ride around Capri, I would easily consider the time I spent in Anacapri far more valuable. JMO. The Villa San Michele is truly awesome, IMO, the Chiesa San Michele unique and lovely, and the views from Monte Solaro breathtaking.

Where will you pick up the van? if in Salerno, definitely consider including magnificent Paestum. IME: Plan on perhaps 2 hours for the temples, an hour plus for the small (but extraordinary) museum, and maybe another hour for some of the local fresh buffalo mozzarella from a cafe with a view of the temples.

And think about giving a bit of time to Salerno's seriously underrated treasures, including its cathedral....

If you are going to Capri, you will see the coast from the water. That can still be a nice way to get to Ravello, but you also have the option to take a bus.

BUT maybe you plan to pick up your van before your time in Positano?!? Having a van while on the Amalfi Coast is really not something that is generally to one's advantage, IME.

dreamon

We travelled between Amalfi and Positano by both bus and ferry. Both are great and give completely different views. I thought that the ferry was far more comfortable and relaxing but views from the bus were more interesting.

We walked the Path of the Gods from Bomerano to Nocelle and then on to Montepertuso then down to Positano. There are buses from Montepertuso to Positano and also from Nocelle I think. You can also join the track from Priaino but we didn't do that and believe that the walk up would be pretty steep. The day we walked, there was thick fog for most of the journey (mid-May) so did not see the views. Although we initially felt short changed, we concluded that it was beautiful any way, watching the currents of air move the fog around and had it's own sense of beauty.

I would catch the earliest ferry available to Capri. When we were there in May, there were two morning departures from Positano. Capri town was a bit take or leave it for me, but there were some beautiful places within easy walking distance. We had hoped to get to Anacapri but ran out of time. Buses and taxis leave from the port. With a group, I'd probably go for a taxi as the queue for the bus was very long and there would be a risk that not all of you would get on the same bus.

It's 30 years since we visited Paestum but it was beautiful and more intact than most of the Greek temples we've seen in Greece.

dreamon

ps. There are at least two paths from Ravello down to Amalfi and this is an easy walk providing you don't have dodgy knees.

jft

Thanks. We will have a van rented from Naples airport after our 3 night stay in Naples. We plan to drive to Positano and leave it parked during our 4 night stay there. We will then make our way to Matera and that was when I thought we could make a detour enroute and go to Paestum as it looks like a half hour drive south off the road past Salerno (town starts with a B). From Matera we continue to Rome where we get rid of the van at Termini as we arrive.
I will rethink the Capti visit.

denisea

If work your Path of the Gods trek to end up in Montepertuso at lunch, you could enjoy lunch in La Tagliata. We wish we had done that and many on the forum have recommended La Tagliata. The view from there is beautiful.

ekc

Why would you want a van for your time in Naples (where you can't/shouldn't drive) or Positano (where parking is scarce and expensive and traffic is terrible). IMO it makes much more sense to pick up the van in Salerno after your time in Naples and Positano. You could take the ferry to Salerno, then pick up the van.

Definitely stop in Paestum. And get some buffalo mozzarella!

For the Walk of the Gods, take the bus or ferry to Amalfi, then the bus up to Bomerano. You could also hire a local guide to accompany you, like Zia Lucy based in Positano.

I think the boat ride from Positano to Capri would be great fun and has been on my to do list for years. There are several boat companies with kiosks down on the beach in Positano.

jft

I couldn't get a van from Salerno. I checked it out thoroughly. The only other option was 2 rental cars which was cheap but not convenient. Going to Matera is really inconvenient and private transfers/public adds up quickly to more than cost of Van when you have 6 people. We will pick up Van after our 3 night stay in Naples from Naples airport, drive to Positano( we have parking at apartment and will probably leave it parked while there. Then Positano to Matera via detour to Paestum, Matera to Rome Termini dropping Van off on arrival and staying walking distance. I think it will be okay. We can use public transport while in Positano and let Van sit. A van rental for 3 days was the same cost as having it for a week.
Thanks.

ekc

Oh good - at least you will be getting the van after Naples! The drive along the coast road is not too difficult, just not for the faint of heart due to the sheer cliff drops and the traffic.

Good idea to leave the van parked while in Positano. Going to Amalfi/Ravello via ferry is very easy.

Be sure to tell your landlord that you will be parking a van, not a regular car, as many spots are too small to accommodate a van.

Francewithfive

We spent 5 days in Positano last summer. Although you may have big idea of what you want to do…once you get there all you want to do is relax and enjoy!!!
We had a car with us since we were coming from Rome and going on to Puglia. It was cheaper to keep it than to drop it off and pick it up again (strange!)However, it stayed parked in its spot the entire time!!! There is really no reason to drive.
We stayed in an apartment which sounds very close to yours. Be prepared for lots of stairs - we had good shoes and a backpack. We managed it with our three kids so you will be fine.
Our highlight was renting a private boat with a driver for the day from Lucibello www.lucibello.it. There were five of us and we rented the "Pappa", a traditional boat of the Amalfi Coast. Since there are 6 of you, this may be even more affordable than joining a larger excursion. It was AMAZING! We jumped off the boat and swam in caves along the way, stopped for lunch at a boat access-only seafood spot, and spent a bit of time wandering the town of Amalfi. I cannot reccomend this enough.
The beach in Positano is also fun for an afternoon. We loved Fornillo more than the main beach. It is a short walk and much quieter.
Lots of great restaurants for long lunches and late dinners. There is also a great butcher and grocer in town which we went to and grilled on our deck a couple of times.
Don't forget to have a "Spritz" at a bar on the beach.
Enjoy!

jft

I am guessing the water and outdoor temperature in May (specifically the 14-18th) may be too cold for jumping off the boat and swimming. Thanks for the link of Lucibello. I am not sure if a private half day boat tour would be as great in May...
I see Lucibello also have a day trip around Capri with time on the island. I will look into whether there is enough time to explore Anacapri. We are not interested in shopping in Capri town. Is boating around Capri that much nicer than around the Amalfi coast? The ferry sounds like a feasible option as long as it is not cancelled from Positano ( sounds like rough water may cancel the ferry at times). I will look into costs. Everything adds up quickly when there are 6 in a group.
France with five- I looked at your prior posts and saw some restaurant suggestions which is helpful. Our original thought was also to go to Puglia but I was convinced by members of this forum to save it for another trip.
Food is definitely something our family enjoys- any ideas of where to buy groceries,great prepared food as I am hoping to pack some picnics and have breakfasts in the apartment, possibly some cooking depending on the facilities. There is a huge terrace with great views at the apartment.
I think it would be good to have ideas of what we'd like to do and then play it by ear and by the weather. I definitely want to do the Path of the Gods walk, and see the coast by land and water.
On our departure day going to Matera we will definitely stop in Paestum to see the temples and the museum and I hope to stop at Vannulo at the mozzarella cheese farm as long as we get there early enough as I believe it is a 2 hour drive from Positano. I am not sure we will have time for a tour.
We will be staying at the Locando di San Martino in Matera at the recommendation of kja.
Thanks all!

kja

2 hours from Positano to Vannulo sounds a bit optimistic to me. Are you using viamichelin.com to estimate your times? It is the closest to accurate of the mapping services that I've tried -- certainly closer to my driving experiences than google maps, which always seems to underestimate by a quarter or more....

I hope you enjoy the Locanda di San Martino as much as I did!

ekc

I agree with kja - 2 hours to Vannulo is optimistic at best. It has taken us 1.5 hours to drive from Positano to Salerno in traffic and then Vannulo is easily 45 minutes to an hour from Salerno.

jft

Good to know. I used google maps and rome to rio. I used the restaurant Costantinos which is close to the apartment in upper Positano as a landmark- the route had us go via sorrento to the highway and then past Salerno and down to Paestum.

ekc

Well, that is one way to go - I just never thought of backtracking to Sorrento (which takes 45 minutes).

jft

I will check michelin

Dayle

Two notes for you:

make advance reservations for the ferry from Positano to Capri if you do go. The early ferry get booked up by the day trippers. The the rest of the day trippers find out that their day trip to Capri has suddenly become a half day trip when they have to wait for the next ferry.

Getting the bus from Amalfi to Ravello is a nightmare. Pushing shoving sweaty nightmare. No AC on the bus while the driver takes a ciggy break. You very well not all get on the same bus. Return bus just as bad if not worse. Scheduled buses don't always show up and then there are twice as many people trying to get on the last bus of the day.

I would highly recommend taxis for your family up and back.

I've visited the Amalfi Coast twice, once in March and once in Sept. March was very quiet and no one on the buses but locals. Very easy to get around. Sept as described above. May would be somewhere in between I would imagine.

Definitely visit Paestum!

ekc

I agree that a taxi to Ravello is well worth it. You will see the taxi's waiting at the port near the buses. Get the card of the taxi driver and then call him when you are ready to get back down to Amalfi. Or you can walk down the 1000+ stairs from Ravello to Atrani and then walk over to Amalfi.

kja

Or walk directly from Ravello to Amalfi!

jft

Thanks for your tips re ferries and buses/taxis in Amalfi/Ravello. Can someone tell me if there are many taxis that hold 6 people on the Amalfi coast- say from Amalfi to Ravello? Ravello to Positano? Also I thought I read that taxis in Capri hold 6-7 passengers- we would want one from the port on Capri to Anacapri if we went for the day.
I read mixed reviews of Capri and have still not decided whether it warrants a day trip- we don't have the time for an overnight which seems to be the more favorable option. I know everyone has different opinions- if going there are a few companies that offer a small group excursion - around 12 people per boat leaving Positano around 915 am with a few hour tour around the island by boat with a 3-4 hour stopover. Combined with a taxi to Anacapri it seems like a nice option-as it leaves right from Positano and I would assume the small boats have better access in rough water(correct me if I am wrong- I thought I read that the ferry doesn't always leave from Positano). Some suggest not booking ahead of time and deciding closer to the day re weather....the seats may not be available for 6 if I do so but I guess we could always take the ferry....
I have also looked at sites regarding groceries and restaurants. I am thinking we should book the first night at one of the high restaurants eg.Ristorante da Costantino (walking distance from where we are staying, or La Terra or La Tagliata, or Il Ritrovo. Any thoughts. Quality of the food may be more important to us than the view as we have an excellent view from our apartment.....