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Portugal--Just Returned

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Portugal--Just Returned

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Old Mar 31st, 2003 | 12:57 PM
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Portugal--Just Returned

We returned last week from 2 1/2 weeks in Portugal and would be happy to answer any questions or simply offer our experiences.<BR><BR>We were in Lisbon, Sintra, Alcobaca, Batalha, Fatima, Tomar, Conimbriga, Braga (Bom Jesus do Monte only), Almeida, Castelo Rodrigo, Guimares, Guarda, Belmonte, Crato, Marvao, Sortelha, Monsaraz, Estremoz, Vila Vicosa, Evora.<BR><BR>We flew American Airlines from Chicago to London and then British Airways from London to Lisbon. The BA flight, an Airbus 320, had extremely cramped seating both in the pitch and width of the seat. By contrast, the AA 777 seemed luxuriously roomy. All flights and airport time were without problems.<BR><BR>Our car rental was with EuropCar through AutoEurope. While we had no actual problems, it did not seem that any of the phone numbers I was provided in my rental packet were accurate. It took at least 10 phone calls to get through to a live person in order to have a simple question answered. I'm glad we weren't having an actual emergency.<BR><BR>We stayed at Casa Mirdouro in Sintra, Monte dos Pensamentos in Estremoz and Hotel do Elevador in Braga. All of those are listed in Fodors. We stayed at Pousadas in Obidos, Almeida, Belmonte and Crato. Our favorite pousada was Belmonte. Our least favorite was Obidos.<BR><BR>Traveling during the outbreak of war was unsettling. Our access to English-speaking TV was often limited to BBC World (which we later found we prefered to CNN World!) We saw many anti-war flyers posted in Lisbon but did not encounter any protests nor any anti-American sentiment. Our tour guide at the Palace in Guimares asked us our opinion on the war and what America was like. She seemed genuinely interested. She went on to say that she hears much about Americans but does not meet many.<BR><BR>All in all, our favorites were Tomar and Marvao.
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Old Mar 31st, 2003 | 03:25 PM
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Thanks for reporting. I too love Marvao and have stayed there twice.
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Old Mar 31st, 2003 | 06:11 PM
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Any restaruant recommendations (casual dining) in Lisbon/Sintra? Also, would appreciate your comments regarding Conimbriga, especially if you visited the ruins. Great to hear there wasn't any anti-American sentiment due to current world events.
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Old Apr 1st, 2003 | 01:15 AM
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Had a great meal surrounded by friendly locals at BALEAL last year, forty euros for heaps of food, a couple of beers and a jug of local red.<BR>I still have the bill but sorry no address on it ?!?
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Old Apr 1st, 2003 | 04:04 AM
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We ate twice in Sintra at the restaurant suggested by Frederic, the owner of Casa Miradouro. The restaurant was called the Regional something... It was not at all fancy and had simple, good food. My husband and I both really liked the Portugese steak. The bill for 2 came in at under 30 Euros each time for 2 entrees, some wine and water and 2 coffees. Soups, salads and desserts were also available. We had one meal at the Caves. It was also decent but not as good as the Regional. In Lisbon, we just wandered around the Praca de Restardores (sorry, I know I spelled that wrong)until we decided on a place. The choices were endless. We actually stayed in Sintra and daytripped in Lisbon rather than doing it the other way around. It served us well as we had arranged with Frederic to pick us up at the airport and to take us to Cascais to pick up our rental car. He is most helpful. Part of our decision was based on the fact that we usually prefer smaller towns to larger cities. But that being said, we both liked Lisbon more than we anticipated. Although guide books mention daytrips to Sintra, it is unbelieveably easy to do: train from Rossio runs directly to Sintra, come out of the train station, turn right and the city buses run a tourist route that for a 3.50 ticket (good for a day) runs the route to the National Palace, Pena Palace and the Castelo.<BR><BR>I think you will like the ruins at Conimbriga. My husband is the fan of things Roman, but I was impressed. (I guess I should qualify that by saying we have not yet been to Italy!) I find it amazing that even the colors of the mosaic floors have survived all this time.<BR><BR>Marvao is impressive. Other fortified towns we visited paled in comparision after being there. Truthfully, I was glad we did not stay there only because I would not have wanted to have to navigate those streets.<BR><BR>We stayed in more Pousadas than we anticipated. Had we known that would happen, we would not have chosen to stay at Obidos for 149 Euros per night. We found Belmonte and Crato to have more atmosphere for less money. Still, the Pousadas were a good value--the rooms were always huge and luxurious. Someone posted here shortly before we left about the average cost of their Pousadas coming to 73 Euros per night. I'm not sure how they managed that deal unless they were able to partake in some specials. Almeida at 78 Euros per night was the cheapest we found. Any historical Pousada is higher priced.<BR><BR>Two other points: self-service laundry was non-existent. Sometimes even towns that I expected to have lavandarias where we could drop off our laundry, did not. I did more handwashing than I hoped for and even paid the ransom of having a Pousada do a few pieces.<BR>Outside of the large cities, it is common to have the man order for the woman. Waiters would often assume we were having 2 of whatever entree my husband would order.
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