Portofino
Aug 26th, 2004, 08:47 AM
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Portofino
Any hotel recommendations for Portofino? Also any suggestions on things to do while staying in Portofino? We will also be staying in Monterrosso (Cinque Terre area) is it similar?
Aug 26th, 2004, 11:48 AM
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Splendido is the best. But, I have to say, I was totally underwhelmed by Portofino. We got there and I said, 'you are kidding? this is it?'. Very small port in front with a couple of big boats, and then a horseshow of overpriced Rodeo Drive stores. The town was pretty, but expensive. I didn't get a great vibe and was happy we only went for the day.
Might I suggest Camogli? About 10 minutes north of Portofino by train and 30 minutes by boat (they stop in San Fruittoso too). Camogli is one of the few remaining active fishing villages along the coast. Tromp l'oile (sp?) painted buildings and an adorable main street with a boardwalk type feel. Just a complete throwback in time. Another world completely. LOVED it there. I will get you the name of the hotel if you are interested.
Might I suggest Camogli? About 10 minutes north of Portofino by train and 30 minutes by boat (they stop in San Fruittoso too). Camogli is one of the few remaining active fishing villages along the coast. Tromp l'oile (sp?) painted buildings and an adorable main street with a boardwalk type feel. Just a complete throwback in time. Another world completely. LOVED it there. I will get you the name of the hotel if you are interested.
Aug 26th, 2004, 01:18 PM
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I love Portofino. Most people never leave the port area for the walk to the church and cemetery, and then the lighthouse. This is not to be missed. There is also a tiny but lovely sculpture garden and a castle on the way to the lighthouse. This is not a difficult walk but it isn't flat. Walking away from the water, toward the Splendido but north, is the tiny town where the people live. I have eaten a fabulous meal in that part of the town, and although it doesn't take long, it is worth taking a look around.
I much prefer this area, the Golfo di Tigullio, to the Cinque Terre, because of the variety of experiences to be had. In my opinion, outside of Monterosso, the CT towns have just too much homogeniety.
I like staying in Santa Margherita best in the Riviera. Camogli is ok, but SML really has the most to offer. But be sure to visit Portofino, SML, Camogli and San Fruttuoso no matter which town you choose.
As for as the Portofino-Monterosso comparison goes, they are both small towns on the water with great hiking trails. Portofino is much more upscale and although the shopping is expensive, I like it better, even if I'm just window shopping. I can't recall any sort of shopping other than souveniers and food in Monterosso, but that could just be my memory. From Monterosso, you hike or train to the other rather similar CT towns. From Portofino, the best way to get to Camogli, Santa Margherita and San Fruttuoso is by boat. If you go to SF, be sure to swim; it is the best swimming I have seen in any of these areas.
May I again suggest staying in Santa Margherita? Camogli is nice, but there is just so much more in SML, and you are already staying in one tiny town. SML has many more hotels and restaurants than Portofino or Camogli. You can also train to Recco, where the best known restaurants in the area are.
For hotel recs, and more, I offer this article I wrote last year:
http://www.postgazette.com/travel/20...fino0810p1.asp
Have a great time, and if you mention a hotel budget, I can offer more specific recommendations. You are going to one of my favorite areas in the world.
And since I'm offering my opinion here, I have to say that I think the Cinque Terre is amazingly over-visited for what it has to offer. The five towns are similar, they offer very little in the way of culture, historical sites, or art. Yet they are so popular... I am always a little amazed.
I much prefer this area, the Golfo di Tigullio, to the Cinque Terre, because of the variety of experiences to be had. In my opinion, outside of Monterosso, the CT towns have just too much homogeniety.
I like staying in Santa Margherita best in the Riviera. Camogli is ok, but SML really has the most to offer. But be sure to visit Portofino, SML, Camogli and San Fruttuoso no matter which town you choose.
As for as the Portofino-Monterosso comparison goes, they are both small towns on the water with great hiking trails. Portofino is much more upscale and although the shopping is expensive, I like it better, even if I'm just window shopping. I can't recall any sort of shopping other than souveniers and food in Monterosso, but that could just be my memory. From Monterosso, you hike or train to the other rather similar CT towns. From Portofino, the best way to get to Camogli, Santa Margherita and San Fruttuoso is by boat. If you go to SF, be sure to swim; it is the best swimming I have seen in any of these areas.
May I again suggest staying in Santa Margherita? Camogli is nice, but there is just so much more in SML, and you are already staying in one tiny town. SML has many more hotels and restaurants than Portofino or Camogli. You can also train to Recco, where the best known restaurants in the area are.
For hotel recs, and more, I offer this article I wrote last year:
http://www.postgazette.com/travel/20...fino0810p1.asp
Have a great time, and if you mention a hotel budget, I can offer more specific recommendations. You are going to one of my favorite areas in the world.
And since I'm offering my opinion here, I have to say that I think the Cinque Terre is amazingly over-visited for what it has to offer. The five towns are similar, they offer very little in the way of culture, historical sites, or art. Yet they are so popular... I am always a little amazed.
Aug 26th, 2004, 01:39 PM
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I agree with the above poster that SML would have more variety. I guess it depends what you are looking for. This was a stop for us in between cities. We opted to stay in the small, quiet, quaint village and enjoy the local flavor. There are very few tourists there. During the day we were on the train or the boat. One day to Portofino/San Fruittoso. The next day to CT to hike the 5 towns, and one day in Genoa. Since we were only in Camogli in the evening, we didn't really care about variety. We wanted to watch the sunset turn the buildings golden while we sat over the ocean eating our fresh calamari and fish. Then just a short stroll to the gelato and the hotel to collapse. We stayed at Cenobio dei Dogi. They had a pool and a nice breakfast and were very close to the train station--a five minute (albiet uphill) walk. You MUST ask for a top floor room. Try to get a corner facing town and the ocean. Throw open the windows and just pass out on the bed while the ocean breeze fills the room. I am ready to go back! these rooms are a bit more expensive and worth every penny.
Aug 26th, 2004, 01:48 PM
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We went "budget" and stayed at a delightful little hotel just back from the port with a lovely garden where breakfast is served called the Eden. I enjoyed the town and found it small but very pretty. There must be a reason they built that hotel in Universal Studios, Florida to look just like the town of Portofino! I too was shocked that there wasn't more to it, but I think that was its charm, one of the very few upscale towns in Italy that hasn't been overbuilt.
I must say we were disappointed with our dinner at one of the "nice" places on the water. The man next to us ordered a whole baked fish and raved about it. We both wanted that, so they said they'd do a fish for two -- which ended up being smaller than that man's fish, but for which they charged us double in price. They kept insisting that "of course fish for two will be twice as expensive as fish for one" but couldn't agree with us that the fish should also be twice as big. One of the few really negative dining experiences I've had in Italy. Later, comparing notes with others we found so many people who told us similar stories that those couple of restaurants are true "tourist rip-offs".
We only spent a day and night, which was plenty. We enjoyed the town and the walking that tuscanlifeedit mentions as well as a boat trip around the point and to the west/north. I sure wouldn't use it as a base to explore though. And the only reason to stay longer is if you were into the "relax and do nothing" motif and splurging for a place like Splendido.
I must say we were disappointed with our dinner at one of the "nice" places on the water. The man next to us ordered a whole baked fish and raved about it. We both wanted that, so they said they'd do a fish for two -- which ended up being smaller than that man's fish, but for which they charged us double in price. They kept insisting that "of course fish for two will be twice as expensive as fish for one" but couldn't agree with us that the fish should also be twice as big. One of the few really negative dining experiences I've had in Italy. Later, comparing notes with others we found so many people who told us similar stories that those couple of restaurants are true "tourist rip-offs".
We only spent a day and night, which was plenty. We enjoyed the town and the walking that tuscanlifeedit mentions as well as a boat trip around the point and to the west/north. I sure wouldn't use it as a base to explore though. And the only reason to stay longer is if you were into the "relax and do nothing" motif and splurging for a place like Splendido.
Aug 26th, 2004, 02:19 PM
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I enjoyed Portofino, especially the restaurants along the port and hiking to the castle, but was unhappy with the Eden. We were there with our daughter and they gave us a room that was so small we couldn't even walk in it. Interesting that our experience was the opposite of Patrick's--but that can happen, right?
I wouldn't suggest Portofino as a base though, especially if you have a car. There's no place to park and we ended up having to pay almost as much to park in a garage as we did for the hotel.
I wouldn't suggest Portofino as a base though, especially if you have a car. There's no place to park and we ended up having to pay almost as much to park in a garage as we did for the hotel.
Aug 26th, 2004, 03:18 PM
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So were we, Patrick! I guess that's why some people research rooms as well and request certain ones. Or ask to see the room first and request a change if they're not happy. I just remember we were very tired when we arrived (and had trouble finding a place to park the car), so we just took it.
It's funny, 'cause I noticed you stayed at the Eden in Montreaux as well...That one we really liked.
It's funny, 'cause I noticed you stayed at the Eden in Montreaux as well...That one we really liked.
Aug 26th, 2004, 03:25 PM
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We stayed at the Villa Gnocchi in the hills above S. Margherita. The view was absolutely incredible, and our host, Roberto, spoke excellent English and was available to assist with travel plans. I'd highly recommend this B&B. You can find it on www.karenbrown.com.
Aug 26th, 2004, 03:27 PM
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I couldn't agree more with Tuscanlifeedit:
Rick Steves "discovered" the Cinque Terre -- they met his chief criterion, i.e., cheap -- and since then people have been going there like lemmings.
Just as I still see recommendations on this board to go to his other "discovery" -- again, cheap -- Civita di Bagnoregio, which has nothing at all to recommend it, beyond the fact that it is cheap.
Rick Steves "discovered" the Cinque Terre -- they met his chief criterion, i.e., cheap -- and since then people have been going there like lemmings.
Just as I still see recommendations on this board to go to his other "discovery" -- again, cheap -- Civita di Bagnoregio, which has nothing at all to recommend it, beyond the fact that it is cheap.
Aug 26th, 2004, 03:46 PM
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Villa Gnocchi is way up in the hills of SML and then down a steep, narrow road. We thought it was difficult to get to, isolated, and decided against staying there. We did not even see the view which is mentioned in Karen Brown's description and we did not have a good experience in our brief encounter with the owner.
However, our last minute change of plans to stay at the Hotel Laurin did not disappoint us. Our room had a large terrace facing the water and the hotel had a roof top pool with a fabulous view. We were very happy with our decision to stay closer to the town so that we could walk to shops, restaurants, etc.
Portofino is a short distance away by car or boat. I would recommend taking the boat trip there - the views are amazing.
Enjoy your trip!
However, our last minute change of plans to stay at the Hotel Laurin did not disappoint us. Our room had a large terrace facing the water and the hotel had a roof top pool with a fabulous view. We were very happy with our decision to stay closer to the town so that we could walk to shops, restaurants, etc.
Portofino is a short distance away by car or boat. I would recommend taking the boat trip there - the views are amazing.
Enjoy your trip!
Aug 26th, 2004, 06:10 PM
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"And since I'm offering my opinion here, I have to say that I think the Cinque Terre is amazingly over-visited for what it has to offer. The five towns are similar, they offer very little in the way of culture, historical sites, or art. Yet they are so popular... I am always a little amazed"
Of course they aren't for everyone, and maybe I shouldn't comment because I haven't been back to the CT since the big Rick Steves onslaught, but I think the above comments are exactly much of the attraction. For many tourists sort of overdosing on the art, culture, history, and architechture of a trip that focuses on Florence and Rome in particular, they are a wonderful respite. Anyone who goes to the CT looking for those things is, of course, going to be disappointed. Instead they are a way to retreat into another part of Italy, a part where everything doesn't depend upon the museums and the guidebooks of attractions. To go to the CT and not hike between the five towns has to be a big miss in my mistake as that is their greatest attraction -- the remote seaview goat paths between the towns. Some people even complain about a lack of hotels or services in the town -- bravo! That again is what makes them unique from nearly every other tourist destination in Italy. Compare that to the Amalfi coast for example where even the tiniest coastal town is primarily made up of hotels and pensions. Of course there are a few tiny towns scattered among other parts of Italy that are somewhat untouched and unspoiled, but not four of them in a row in such a spectacular setting. (I say four, because I leave out Monterossa, the one town filled with hotels and tourist services that keeps it quite a bit apart from the feel of the other five. In fact I'm amazed at the people who seek out "what is the best resort type hotel to stay at in Monterossa?" then come back and say they don't see anything special about the Cinque Terre. I think they were in the wrong place for what they were looking for.
Of course they aren't for everyone, and maybe I shouldn't comment because I haven't been back to the CT since the big Rick Steves onslaught, but I think the above comments are exactly much of the attraction. For many tourists sort of overdosing on the art, culture, history, and architechture of a trip that focuses on Florence and Rome in particular, they are a wonderful respite. Anyone who goes to the CT looking for those things is, of course, going to be disappointed. Instead they are a way to retreat into another part of Italy, a part where everything doesn't depend upon the museums and the guidebooks of attractions. To go to the CT and not hike between the five towns has to be a big miss in my mistake as that is their greatest attraction -- the remote seaview goat paths between the towns. Some people even complain about a lack of hotels or services in the town -- bravo! That again is what makes them unique from nearly every other tourist destination in Italy. Compare that to the Amalfi coast for example where even the tiniest coastal town is primarily made up of hotels and pensions. Of course there are a few tiny towns scattered among other parts of Italy that are somewhat untouched and unspoiled, but not four of them in a row in such a spectacular setting. (I say four, because I leave out Monterossa, the one town filled with hotels and tourist services that keeps it quite a bit apart from the feel of the other five. In fact I'm amazed at the people who seek out "what is the best resort type hotel to stay at in Monterossa?" then come back and say they don't see anything special about the Cinque Terre. I think they were in the wrong place for what they were looking for.
Aug 26th, 2004, 06:10 PM
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Rick Steves discovered the 5 terre - what a laugh! this has been a European hotbed for ages - even the old Romans used to come here. Gimme a break! He may have popularized it for Americans but even this is giving him too much credit. As for Portofino, any romance this "small fishing village" once had is long gone - the only fishing they do now is for the tourist dollar- this Disneyland like place is a plastic prop of what it once was! Santa Margharita, an authentic fishing port where the action when the day's catch comes is captivating, is great - if I had to spend time in Portofino, with the hordes of day trippers, God! The day we spent there was fun - I love tourist traps - but it was really elbow to elbow. Maybe in off-season it's more ambient. Oh well, I'm ready to be attacked, but Portofino, even Rick Steves doesn't say much nice about it.
