Please Help with Trip to the Piedmont
Nov 27th, 2012, 07:31 PM
#21
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Mag:
If you should change your mind on nearby-Alba lodgings, here is the villa I had mentioned in my post above. Take the rossa room...chamring and colorful.
http://www.villalafavorita.it/home_uk.html
stu (just in case)
If you should change your mind on nearby-Alba lodgings, here is the villa I had mentioned in my post above. Take the rossa room...chamring and colorful.
http://www.villalafavorita.it/home_uk.html
stu (just in case)
Nov 28th, 2012, 05:19 AM
#22
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Love these terrific recommendations -- thanks!
Lexma90 -- Drinking Barola is one of our main goals for this trip! I added all your favorite towns to our plan - thanks!
Huggy -- My other goal is to learn about Barbaresco. Thanks so much for the recommendations! I bookmarked the Boffa and Tenuta Carretta winery websites. We'll be going in the spring. Too bad -- we would have loved the donkey races!
stu (just in case) -- I bookmarked Villa Favorita too (thanks for the link!) -- it looks lovely.
Any other lunch recommendations are also much appreciated. I figure what could be better than roaming around the Piedmont drinking great wine and eating incredible lunches?
Lexma90 -- Drinking Barola is one of our main goals for this trip! I added all your favorite towns to our plan - thanks!
Huggy -- My other goal is to learn about Barbaresco. Thanks so much for the recommendations! I bookmarked the Boffa and Tenuta Carretta winery websites. We'll be going in the spring. Too bad -- we would have loved the donkey races!
stu (just in case) -- I bookmarked Villa Favorita too (thanks for the link!) -- it looks lovely.
Any other lunch recommendations are also much appreciated. I figure what could be better than roaming around the Piedmont drinking great wine and eating incredible lunches?
Nov 28th, 2012, 09:37 AM
#23
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We really enjoyed lunch in beautiful Neive at La Luna nel Pozzo.
http://www.lalunanelpozzo-neive.it/eng/restaurant.htm
http://www.lalunanelpozzo-neive.it/eng/restaurant.htm
Nov 28th, 2012, 10:42 AM
#24
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Mag: A few Piemonte recos for lunch/dinner from my journals:
In Babaresco, a small village aboout 8 kms. uphill from Alba, <b>Antica Torre</b>..has ample menu selections for "tajarin" (unmatchable Piemonte pasta dishes)..I had the buttery sage, wife had ragu. Outstanding choclatey hazel-nut desserts. Salads and soups are also available with dinner.
In town Alba has many choices..we dropped into <b>Vincafe'</b> on Vittoria Emanuel, the main street, for lunch..tajarin again, with sauteed mushrooms and a wide choice of local wines. Large fresh salads. Very reasonable, for lunch anyway. Several shops in town feature bags of tajarin in their windows. We took a few home. I tried to copy the buttery sage recipe Antica Torre gave me, and it worked out quite well for us.
Market day in Alba is quite colorful and extensive, outdoors, every conceivable food fruit and vegetable product imaginable, along with clothing, shoes, etc. This was on a Thursday, but it's listed as Wednesday on the internet. The gigantic street-level billboard covering a city block heralding the truffle festival, with photos of the famous is uniquely interesting to see. We were a few weeks late, but again, every shop window has a display of truffles, all sizes, all prices.
Great gelato offerngs at <b>Sacherros</b> on the same pedestrian main street.
Drove to Treiso (10 kms from Alba, through wine country) a "foodie" village with several recommended diner-ies but only one was open...<b>Risorgimento Trattoria</b> and it looked like the entire village was there for lunch. All locals, only two women, and the two turistas, us. The owner seemed to give us his special attention and it worked out so cordially. Wonderful pumpkin raviolis and again, my favotite tajarn dish, burre and salvia (butter and sage)..he insisted on gifting us a carafe of his favorite local vino, and hazel nut cream torte for dessert...appreciated and delicious. He remarked that when Americans and other foreigners honestly try to speak the language, he is very pleased. He hugged us when we left. I guess my Quincy (Mass.)childhood Italiano still works.
Mag...you will certainly enjoy the hospitality, the food and the wine of the Alba area.
Stu
In Babaresco, a small village aboout 8 kms. uphill from Alba, <b>Antica Torre</b>..has ample menu selections for "tajarin" (unmatchable Piemonte pasta dishes)..I had the buttery sage, wife had ragu. Outstanding choclatey hazel-nut desserts. Salads and soups are also available with dinner.
In town Alba has many choices..we dropped into <b>Vincafe'</b> on Vittoria Emanuel, the main street, for lunch..tajarin again, with sauteed mushrooms and a wide choice of local wines. Large fresh salads. Very reasonable, for lunch anyway. Several shops in town feature bags of tajarin in their windows. We took a few home. I tried to copy the buttery sage recipe Antica Torre gave me, and it worked out quite well for us.
Market day in Alba is quite colorful and extensive, outdoors, every conceivable food fruit and vegetable product imaginable, along with clothing, shoes, etc. This was on a Thursday, but it's listed as Wednesday on the internet. The gigantic street-level billboard covering a city block heralding the truffle festival, with photos of the famous is uniquely interesting to see. We were a few weeks late, but again, every shop window has a display of truffles, all sizes, all prices.
Great gelato offerngs at <b>Sacherros</b> on the same pedestrian main street.
Drove to Treiso (10 kms from Alba, through wine country) a "foodie" village with several recommended diner-ies but only one was open...<b>Risorgimento Trattoria</b> and it looked like the entire village was there for lunch. All locals, only two women, and the two turistas, us. The owner seemed to give us his special attention and it worked out so cordially. Wonderful pumpkin raviolis and again, my favotite tajarn dish, burre and salvia (butter and sage)..he insisted on gifting us a carafe of his favorite local vino, and hazel nut cream torte for dessert...appreciated and delicious. He remarked that when Americans and other foreigners honestly try to speak the language, he is very pleased. He hugged us when we left. I guess my Quincy (Mass.)childhood Italiano still works.
Mag...you will certainly enjoy the hospitality, the food and the wine of the Alba area.
Stu
Nov 28th, 2012, 10:44 AM
#25
We read Ekscrunchy's trip report on her visit to the Piemonte and especially loved her recommendation of a restaurant a little outside of Alba, Profumo di Vino. We ate there twice and it was our favorite in the area. We had a good lunch in Alba at Cafe Umberto, and a dinner downstairs later at Enoteca, both very good. Enoteca has a nice wine cellar setting and good serice too. We ate putside at Cafe Umberto.
We were not thrilled with La Libera in Alba, food and service were OK, nothing special, despite good reviews. We liked the others I've mentioned much, much more.
We had a fabulous lunch or two while out wandering the countryside at bars in town centers. Sorry no names, but great food and experiences, sitting outside.
We were not thrilled with La Libera in Alba, food and service were OK, nothing special, despite good reviews. We liked the others I've mentioned much, much more.
We had a fabulous lunch or two while out wandering the countryside at bars in town centers. Sorry no names, but great food and experiences, sitting outside.
Nov 28th, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Happy...yes, the Profumo di Vino was one of the restos closed for lunch in Treiso I mentioned above. That was our first choice based on EK's report..but Riorgimento didn't disappoint. EK also gave ius the reco for Villa la Favorita.
I agree on La Libera..a little stuffy and I didn't even include it on my recs above.
stu
I agree on La Libera..a little stuffy and I didn't even include it on my recs above.
stu
Nov 29th, 2012, 09:59 AM
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Sorry, can't help re north of Asti, as we were focussing on Barolos.
Here are more restaurants, though, our favorites from our trip:
La Ciau del Tornavento, piazza Baracco 7 I - 12050 Treiso. This was my favorite; I still drool when I think about the fois gras-stuffed raviolis. Don't know how fancy or high-end you want to go, though.
Trattoria della Posta, Localita Sant' Anna, 87, Monforte d’Alba (3 km beyond the central piazza). Just an all-around wonderful meal in a comfortable setting.
Giardino del Felicin, via Vallada, 18, Monforte d’Alba. The traditional selection of a number of different pasta dishes.
Osteria La Cantinella, Via Acqua gelata, 4/a, Barolo. Just a little place with lots of outdoor seating overlooking the hills of the Piemonte (on the edge of town). We had lunch here on a Sunday, and were drawn in by the grandmother types bringing fresh pasta from the (kitchen?) up the hill.
We also made several visits to the Barolo Bar, in the center of Monforte d’Alba. Each time, we were the only non-Italians there, but they welcomed us warmly, and we enjoyed the complimentary appetizers served with our wine.
For visits to wineries, have your hotel help you out. They will have contacts at various wineries. For our trip, we only visited a couple (we were there during the truffle festival, so that was our other focus), but the owner of our B&B set up visits for us at Podere Rocche dei Manzoni and Podere Ruggeri Corsini. I especially enjoyed the latter, as it's run by a woman and is a much smaller winery, so we saw a good contrast.
Keep in mind that European laws on drinking and driving are much more strict, so especially if only one person will be driving, as opposed to taking turns, that person will need to carefully limit wine drinking at lunch if you plan to drive afterwards.
This is making me want to visit the Piemonte again, right now! (And we will return.)
Here are more restaurants, though, our favorites from our trip:
La Ciau del Tornavento, piazza Baracco 7 I - 12050 Treiso. This was my favorite; I still drool when I think about the fois gras-stuffed raviolis. Don't know how fancy or high-end you want to go, though.
Trattoria della Posta, Localita Sant' Anna, 87, Monforte d’Alba (3 km beyond the central piazza). Just an all-around wonderful meal in a comfortable setting.
Giardino del Felicin, via Vallada, 18, Monforte d’Alba. The traditional selection of a number of different pasta dishes.
Osteria La Cantinella, Via Acqua gelata, 4/a, Barolo. Just a little place with lots of outdoor seating overlooking the hills of the Piemonte (on the edge of town). We had lunch here on a Sunday, and were drawn in by the grandmother types bringing fresh pasta from the (kitchen?) up the hill.
We also made several visits to the Barolo Bar, in the center of Monforte d’Alba. Each time, we were the only non-Italians there, but they welcomed us warmly, and we enjoyed the complimentary appetizers served with our wine.
For visits to wineries, have your hotel help you out. They will have contacts at various wineries. For our trip, we only visited a couple (we were there during the truffle festival, so that was our other focus), but the owner of our B&B set up visits for us at Podere Rocche dei Manzoni and Podere Ruggeri Corsini. I especially enjoyed the latter, as it's run by a woman and is a much smaller winery, so we saw a good contrast.
Keep in mind that European laws on drinking and driving are much more strict, so especially if only one person will be driving, as opposed to taking turns, that person will need to carefully limit wine drinking at lunch if you plan to drive afterwards.
This is making me want to visit the Piemonte again, right now! (And we will return.)
Nov 29th, 2012, 10:11 AM
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I did not have the pleasure of visiting, but while doing trip research before my visit to Asti, I learned that one of my favorite wines,have not visited this place, but food writers the Lee Brothers recommended it in this article:
Nov 29th, 2012, 10:14 AM
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oops--sorry, hit the tab button. Let's do that over:
I did not have the pleasure of visiting, but while doing trip research before my visit to Asti, I learned that one of my favorite wines, http://www.braida.it/it/brachetto-dacqui/, is produced in the next town over.
Food writers the Lee Brothers recommended the winery restaurant in this article: http://www.travelandleisure.com/arti...-of-piedmont/1
I did not have the pleasure of visiting, but while doing trip research before my visit to Asti, I learned that one of my favorite wines, http://www.braida.it/it/brachetto-dacqui/, is produced in the next town over.
Food writers the Lee Brothers recommended the winery restaurant in this article: http://www.travelandleisure.com/arti...-of-piedmont/1
Nov 29th, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Magster2005,
You might want to visit the walled town of Moncalvo and the synagogue at Casale Monferrato (note spelling of town). If you like risotto, visit the Italian rice capital of Vercelli, where you can visit rice producers and it is also a small art city. All of these places are convenient to your B&B north of Asti.
Near the residence where you are staying in Torino, you should make a least one visit to Pfatisch, the chocolate and pastry makers, since it is just a few steps away. In the close-by Corso Vittorio Emanneule are many historic cafes, chocolatiers and other gastronomic treats in particular Caffe Platti and the chocolatier Peyrano. Also steps from you is DeFillipis, which fabricates the many beautiful pastas that are so wonderful in Turin. so you can make a great dinner "at home" when you tire of restaurants. This website has a lot of good tips about Torino http://www.extratorino.it/ENG/list.php?categoriaID=39
If when you arrive in Torino you make one of your first stops the bookstore Libreria Co-op in the piazza Castello, they have an extensive collection of guides to Piemonte (and other Italian destinations). Even if you don't speak Italian, you will be able to figure out the Osterie d'Italia put out by the Slow Food editors (look for a yellow book with a snail somewhere on the front). It is a great way to choose restaurants as your tour the countryside or in Alba or Torino. I think you may be able to get the new version on an Iphone. Perhaps the Slow Food guide can help you out with tips for where to eat in Barbaresco if you plan to go to the source of Barberesco wine production to learn more.
SInce you will be in Torino for 9 days and so close to the train station, you might consider visiting the historic core of Asti as a day trip from Torino rather than drive there. It is a very short train trip. It is a long (but not impossible) walk from the Asti train station to the Duomo, the crown jewel of Asti. You might prefer a taxi from the train station to the Duomo. Make sure you have a good map before you go to Asti, even if you have to print one out online.
You might want to visit the walled town of Moncalvo and the synagogue at Casale Monferrato (note spelling of town). If you like risotto, visit the Italian rice capital of Vercelli, where you can visit rice producers and it is also a small art city. All of these places are convenient to your B&B north of Asti.
Near the residence where you are staying in Torino, you should make a least one visit to Pfatisch, the chocolate and pastry makers, since it is just a few steps away. In the close-by Corso Vittorio Emanneule are many historic cafes, chocolatiers and other gastronomic treats in particular Caffe Platti and the chocolatier Peyrano. Also steps from you is DeFillipis, which fabricates the many beautiful pastas that are so wonderful in Turin. so you can make a great dinner "at home" when you tire of restaurants. This website has a lot of good tips about Torino http://www.extratorino.it/ENG/list.php?categoriaID=39
If when you arrive in Torino you make one of your first stops the bookstore Libreria Co-op in the piazza Castello, they have an extensive collection of guides to Piemonte (and other Italian destinations). Even if you don't speak Italian, you will be able to figure out the Osterie d'Italia put out by the Slow Food editors (look for a yellow book with a snail somewhere on the front). It is a great way to choose restaurants as your tour the countryside or in Alba or Torino. I think you may be able to get the new version on an Iphone. Perhaps the Slow Food guide can help you out with tips for where to eat in Barbaresco if you plan to go to the source of Barberesco wine production to learn more.
SInce you will be in Torino for 9 days and so close to the train station, you might consider visiting the historic core of Asti as a day trip from Torino rather than drive there. It is a very short train trip. It is a long (but not impossible) walk from the Asti train station to the Duomo, the crown jewel of Asti. You might prefer a taxi from the train station to the Duomo. Make sure you have a good map before you go to Asti, even if you have to print one out online.
Nov 29th, 2012, 02:25 PM
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Nov 29th, 2012, 02:58 PM
#34
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Once again, I am blown away by all the helpful information I get on this forum. Thank you all so much! I am busy adding all these restaurants and suggestions to my plan. (And all this food talk is making me so hungry!!) Thanks to all of you, I am getting more excited about this trip all the time. I have no doubts that we have made a great decision to see the Piemonte.
Lexma90 -- thanks for the great restaurant recommendations!
yorkshire -- Braida looks wonderful, thanks! if you don't mind me asking, which of their wines is your favorite?
tuscancstle -- thanks for all the detailed suggestions, love the idea of making a special pasta dinner in our apartment, and really appreciate the wise suggestion to visit Alba by train
Lexma90 -- thanks for the great restaurant recommendations!
yorkshire -- Braida looks wonderful, thanks! if you don't mind me asking, which of their wines is your favorite?
tuscancstle -- thanks for all the detailed suggestions, love the idea of making a special pasta dinner in our apartment, and really appreciate the wise suggestion to visit Alba by train
Nov 30th, 2012, 06:09 AM
#35
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It's Braida's Braccheto d'Acqui--it is probably an acquired taste, as it is an effervescent red wine more akin to fruit juice than wine, but in summer it is absolutely perfect. (I normally don't like sweet wines.) Enjoy--I can't wait to return to the Piedmont.
Nov 30th, 2012, 07:59 AM
#36
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My suggestion is to visit Asti (not Alba) by train because trains leave about every 20 minutes from Torino Porta Nuova station and arrive in Asti in less than an hour.
Brachetto is a sparkling wine from southern Piemonte that is most often served as a aperitivo in summer. You might not readily find it where you are going in spring, but you might be able to find a bottle in the US (if that is where you are posting from):
http://www.winewordswisdom.com/wine_...ling-wine.html
Northern Piemonte is the birthplace of vermouth, and you might want to try some of the local brands as an aperitif in one of Torino's historic cafes, or if you like cocktails made with vermouth:
http://www.alcoholreviews.com/WINES/carpano.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punt_e_Mes
http://www.specialitybrands.com/Cocchi-Vermouth.htm
http://www.specialitybrands.com/Anti...a-Vermouth.htm
http://www.specialitybrands.com/Gancia-Vermouth.htm
historic cafes and cocktail bars
http://atasteoftravelblog.com/2011/turins-cafe-culture/
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/200...od-drink-italy
Brachetto is a sparkling wine from southern Piemonte that is most often served as a aperitivo in summer. You might not readily find it where you are going in spring, but you might be able to find a bottle in the US (if that is where you are posting from):
http://www.winewordswisdom.com/wine_...ling-wine.html
Northern Piemonte is the birthplace of vermouth, and you might want to try some of the local brands as an aperitif in one of Torino's historic cafes, or if you like cocktails made with vermouth:
http://www.alcoholreviews.com/WINES/carpano.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punt_e_Mes
http://www.specialitybrands.com/Cocchi-Vermouth.htm
http://www.specialitybrands.com/Anti...a-Vermouth.htm
http://www.specialitybrands.com/Gancia-Vermouth.htm
historic cafes and cocktail bars
http://atasteoftravelblog.com/2011/turins-cafe-culture/
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/200...od-drink-italy
Nov 30th, 2012, 08:40 AM
#37
You'll need a car to visit the wineries and explore the beautiful countryside.
We enjoyed our visit to www.pietrorinaldi.com in Madonna di Como, a very short distance outside of Alba.
We enjoyed our visit to www.pietrorinaldi.com in Madonna di Como, a very short distance outside of Alba.
Nov 30th, 2012, 01:33 PM
#38
Here is a link to ekscrunchy's very helpful trip report of the Piemonte region which I mentioned above:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nd-bicerin.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nd-bicerin.cfm
Nov 30th, 2012, 04:50 PM
#39
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You are going to love the Residence Sacchi. I stayed there for a few days last month. I wouldn't call it a 15 minute walk to the museums unless you really hustle, though. Be careful walking home at night. I don't think it is dangerous but there were people sleeping on the street around the hotel when I was there. Don't let that put you off, and consider taxis home at night if you are too tired to walk back. I would never stay anywhere else, for the money you pay you get a whole apartment and the people there are very kind.... my apartment was at the top and had these great skylights that let in the fresh air. Wonderful.
There is a great food store pretty close by, on Vittorio Emmanuel at the end (and across the street) from Via Sacchi, called Baudracco. There is also a Carrefour in the other direction on Via Sacchi. Hope this helps!
There is a great food store pretty close by, on Vittorio Emmanuel at the end (and across the street) from Via Sacchi, called Baudracco. There is also a Carrefour in the other direction on Via Sacchi. Hope this helps!
Nov 30th, 2012, 07:32 PM
#40
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Mag...with all this talk about Alba, thought I'd toss in some familiarization pix of the lovely town and vicinity for you.
https://picasaweb.google.com/stuartt...baAndVicinity#
stu
https://picasaweb.google.com/stuartt...baAndVicinity#
stu
