Please help with itinerary route from Toulouse to Dordogne/Sarlat area
Aug 25th, 2006, 01:15 PM
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Please help with itinerary route from Toulouse to Dordogne/Sarlat area
Hi Everyone,
I am so excited. I was able to secure FF tickets arriving in Toulouse on July 7 and departing Paris on July 18/20 (DH will leave on 18th, 13 yo son and I will stay on until the 20th).
Our tentative plan is to spend the first 7 nights traveling to and around the Dordogne. Then, spend 4/6 nights in Paris. The more I read the more excited and confused I get - there are endless wonderful things to do and see.
So, here is where you come in:
Because I arrive fairly late into Toulouse, we would like to spend the first night not more than an hour drive from there. Would Albi be a good choice?
The next night or two is where I am confused....would it be better (ie. more scenic with good sites/stops) to go up through Conques then head to the area around Sarlat OR would you recommend going up through the Cahors area, then on to Sarlat area?
I haven't yet decided where to stay around Sarlat, but there seems to be a mountain of good info and recommendations here on the board to research - I'm thinking Beynac, Le Bugue, St. Cyprien, Domme, La Roque-Gageac,??? Any particular thoughts would be welcome. We would like a place with great access for day trips as well as great dining - either at the hotel or be able to walk to/from dinner each evening so we can enjoy wine with our meals and not have to drive. Our budget is generous, but not deluxe (Relais & Chateaux).
To sum up....Albi first night? Through Cahors or Conques? Any particular way to choose among the many towns around Sarlat keeping convenience and proximity to dining in mind?
Many thanks!
Aug 25th, 2006, 01:56 PM
#2
I assume you are talking about next year, so you have plenty of time to plan. we are travelling to toulouse in about 10 days time, arriving at 9pm ish. So we have decided to stay for 2 nights in a central hotel, so we can enjoy being in a big city - we live in Cornwall so don't get out much. Then we are hiring a car, picking it up from the railway station, and driving down into the pyrenees.
If you can wait for 3 weeks or so, I'll be writing a trip report when I get back so I'll let you konw how this worked out!
The dordogne is lovely and you will have plenty to see in 7 days or so. Sarlat would make a good base, IMO.
You might like to think of spending at least one night on the Loire on the way to Paris - you could stop off in Tours and leave your car there, thus avoiding having to drive in Paris.
If you can wait for 3 weeks or so, I'll be writing a trip report when I get back so I'll let you konw how this worked out!
The dordogne is lovely and you will have plenty to see in 7 days or so. Sarlat would make a good base, IMO.
You might like to think of spending at least one night on the Loire on the way to Paris - you could stop off in Tours and leave your car there, thus avoiding having to drive in Paris.
Aug 25th, 2006, 02:18 PM
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I'm leaving on the 18th of Sept..arriving in Toulouse around noon. I will be heading east, the other side of Carcassonne with resrvations for several nights to do the Millau viaduct, Minervois and coastal areas and then down near the Pyrenees with reservations for several nights to do the coastal and Ceret and some Pyrenees areas. I will then head to the Dordogne for a week with lodging just north of Sarlat. I will then be heading down to Basque country for almost a week. I will then fly out of Biarritz.
Many places checking to see if I would like to spend more time there. I have been to the Dordogne before and I have rented a charming place in Carlux, from the poster "carlux", for a month for fall of 2007.
Enjoy gathering your information for your trip.
Many places checking to see if I would like to spend more time there. I have been to the Dordogne before and I have rented a charming place in Carlux, from the poster "carlux", for a month for fall of 2007.
Enjoy gathering your information for your trip.
Aug 25th, 2006, 02:40 PM
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Thanks for the info.
annhig - Enjoy your trip. I will eagerly await your trip report. As we get plenty of big cities and will spend the second half of our trip in Paris, my preference is to head out of Toulouse the first night. I will wait for your thoughts.
Also, I think we will return the car, probably in Liborne or Brive and take the TGV straight to Paris without time in the Loire - as much as my family would love to see it, I think we might be stretching ourselves too thin to add anything else in. But, correct me if I'm wrong because I am open to different ways of doing this.
gracejoan3- In what area are you staying north of Sarlat? Your trip sounds fabulous! Enjoy and please report back when you return.
Stu Dudley - Yes, thanks. I have read tons of your stuff already, and it is amazing. I have bookmarked many other of your posts to peruse as well. If you had to choose between the Conques route or the Cahors route (I wish we had time for both, but it seems too nuts)which would you recommend? Is it possible or advisable to do a daytrip to Cahors/Carcassonne from Sarlat area?
Thanks again - keep it coming!
annhig - Enjoy your trip. I will eagerly await your trip report. As we get plenty of big cities and will spend the second half of our trip in Paris, my preference is to head out of Toulouse the first night. I will wait for your thoughts.
Also, I think we will return the car, probably in Liborne or Brive and take the TGV straight to Paris without time in the Loire - as much as my family would love to see it, I think we might be stretching ourselves too thin to add anything else in. But, correct me if I'm wrong because I am open to different ways of doing this.
gracejoan3- In what area are you staying north of Sarlat? Your trip sounds fabulous! Enjoy and please report back when you return.
Stu Dudley - Yes, thanks. I have read tons of your stuff already, and it is amazing. I have bookmarked many other of your posts to peruse as well. If you had to choose between the Conques route or the Cahors route (I wish we had time for both, but it seems too nuts)which would you recommend? Is it possible or advisable to do a daytrip to Cahors/Carcassonne from Sarlat area?
Thanks again - keep it coming!
Aug 25th, 2006, 02:59 PM
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Hi fun,
Albi is about an hour from Toulouse.
If you want a very, very nice layover at Conques, I can highly recommend the Moulin de Camboulong (www.moulindecambelong.com).
See my trip report for details:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34676645
Photos at http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-pla2au
Albi is about an hour from Toulouse.
If you want a very, very nice layover at Conques, I can highly recommend the Moulin de Camboulong (www.moulindecambelong.com).
See my trip report for details:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34676645
Photos at http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-pla2au
Aug 25th, 2006, 03:08 PM
#7
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Thanks, ira, one of the main reasons I selected Conques as one of our possibilities was because of your report and the Moulin de Camboulong 
.
I forgot, we you in both Chahors area and Conques? If so, which would you choose?
. I forgot, we you in both Chahors area and Conques? If so, which would you choose?
Aug 25th, 2006, 03:45 PM
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I would take the Albi/Cordes route to the Dordorgne, and then do the Cahors loop as a day trip from the Dordogne. However, I would advise you to do the Cahors loop late in your stay in the Dordogne - you may have soem very interesting things still un-seen in the Dordogne by the time you head out to Cahors. Perhaps only visit Bonaguil & Biron Chateaux as a 3/4 day trip.
Going from the Toulouse area to the Dordogne follow this route:
From Albi, take the A68 southwest towards Toulouse (or from Toulouse the A68 northeast), but get of at the Gaillac exit - #9. Loop around Gaillac by taking the D968 northwest, then the D18 northeast to the D964. Take the D968 northwest to one of my favorite Bastide towns - Castelnau-Montmiral. Perhaps have a coffee in the center square of this pretty village. Then take the D1 east & then the D922 to Cordes for a visit.
After Cordes, take the D600 and then the D115 to St Antonin Noble Val. Before you go over the bridge to St Antonin, continue driving a bit west and immediatly you'll see a park along the river with a great view of St Antonin. Return to St Antonin for a visit if you have time.
After St Antonin, retrace your route back over the bridge to where the park is located, and go west on the D115 - following the pretty Gorges de l'Aveyron to Pennes, where you'll be rewarded with a great view of the chateau (you may have to look behind you a bit). Continue on to Bruniquel for a visit to this interesting medieval town. Next, head to Montricoux, and then the D958 back towards St Antonin. When the D958 hits the D5, take the D5 northwest but look back towards St Antonin for a fantastic view of this village in a pretty gorge.
Head towards Caussade and get on the A20 towards Cahors. Get off the A20 at exit 57 (past Cahors), and wind your way to St Cirq Lapopie. Stay overnight there. Next morning, visit the fabulous caves of Perch Merle (make a reservation 14 days in advance).
After Peche Merle, head to the Dordogne around Sarlat.
For your daytrip to the Cahors area, take the N20 south to Cahors. Follow the Lot west of Cahors, using the route described in the Michelin Dordogne Green Guide under “Lot – Lower Reaches”. In the newer Green Guide, this route is described under “Luzech”. If you like exploring luxury hotels, stop at the Mercues. Stop in Luzech & explore a little. It’s a very small town with the ruins of a very impressive tower perched on an overlook. Richard the Lionhearted had actually used the tower. Stop & explore again at Puy l’Eveque. We spent a lot of time there. It’s a wonderful town, which boasted many restored buildings & even had a town walking route posted along the narrow back roads/paths. Follow the Green Guide to Boneguil** and get the camera out as you approach on the specified route. Look up Bonaguil in the Green Guide & notice the picture. You can tour this interesting medieval military fortress. There is also a guided tour, but we found it to be very long & tedious (it’s in French too). You can wander on your own.
You will now go out of the domain of the Dordogne GG, so I’ll describe one short trip that we found interesting. From Bonaguil, leave on the D158 south and then the D673 southwest towards Fumel. At Condat, cross the Lot River and connect with the D911 again heading west. Take the short side trip off the D911 & drive through Lustrac, and then back on the D911 heading west. At St Sylvestre, cross the Lot, and go to Penne-d'Agenais*. There is an upper “Centre Ville” – make sure you go there & not the lower less interesting part of the city. Penne is a fabulously restored medieval town with an attractive “place” (square) dotted with cafes. My wife believes that this historical town had a “master plan”, as the restorations had a rather “ordered” appearance & there were no structures in dilapidated condition.
Stu Dudley
Going from the Toulouse area to the Dordogne follow this route:
From Albi, take the A68 southwest towards Toulouse (or from Toulouse the A68 northeast), but get of at the Gaillac exit - #9. Loop around Gaillac by taking the D968 northwest, then the D18 northeast to the D964. Take the D968 northwest to one of my favorite Bastide towns - Castelnau-Montmiral. Perhaps have a coffee in the center square of this pretty village. Then take the D1 east & then the D922 to Cordes for a visit.
After Cordes, take the D600 and then the D115 to St Antonin Noble Val. Before you go over the bridge to St Antonin, continue driving a bit west and immediatly you'll see a park along the river with a great view of St Antonin. Return to St Antonin for a visit if you have time.
After St Antonin, retrace your route back over the bridge to where the park is located, and go west on the D115 - following the pretty Gorges de l'Aveyron to Pennes, where you'll be rewarded with a great view of the chateau (you may have to look behind you a bit). Continue on to Bruniquel for a visit to this interesting medieval town. Next, head to Montricoux, and then the D958 back towards St Antonin. When the D958 hits the D5, take the D5 northwest but look back towards St Antonin for a fantastic view of this village in a pretty gorge.
Head towards Caussade and get on the A20 towards Cahors. Get off the A20 at exit 57 (past Cahors), and wind your way to St Cirq Lapopie. Stay overnight there. Next morning, visit the fabulous caves of Perch Merle (make a reservation 14 days in advance).
After Peche Merle, head to the Dordogne around Sarlat.
For your daytrip to the Cahors area, take the N20 south to Cahors. Follow the Lot west of Cahors, using the route described in the Michelin Dordogne Green Guide under “Lot – Lower Reaches”. In the newer Green Guide, this route is described under “Luzech”. If you like exploring luxury hotels, stop at the Mercues. Stop in Luzech & explore a little. It’s a very small town with the ruins of a very impressive tower perched on an overlook. Richard the Lionhearted had actually used the tower. Stop & explore again at Puy l’Eveque. We spent a lot of time there. It’s a wonderful town, which boasted many restored buildings & even had a town walking route posted along the narrow back roads/paths. Follow the Green Guide to Boneguil** and get the camera out as you approach on the specified route. Look up Bonaguil in the Green Guide & notice the picture. You can tour this interesting medieval military fortress. There is also a guided tour, but we found it to be very long & tedious (it’s in French too). You can wander on your own.
You will now go out of the domain of the Dordogne GG, so I’ll describe one short trip that we found interesting. From Bonaguil, leave on the D158 south and then the D673 southwest towards Fumel. At Condat, cross the Lot River and connect with the D911 again heading west. Take the short side trip off the D911 & drive through Lustrac, and then back on the D911 heading west. At St Sylvestre, cross the Lot, and go to Penne-d'Agenais*. There is an upper “Centre Ville” – make sure you go there & not the lower less interesting part of the city. Penne is a fabulously restored medieval town with an attractive “place” (square) dotted with cafes. My wife believes that this historical town had a “master plan”, as the restorations had a rather “ordered” appearance & there were no structures in dilapidated condition.
Stu Dudley
Aug 25th, 2006, 03:56 PM
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Fun
Which "stuff" do you consider to be in the "Cahors area", and what do you plan to see in the Conques region - in addition to Conques.
Peche Merle is a "must see" and since St Cirq Lapopie is next door - see it too.
We've vacationed 2 weeks in the Conques region, and 8 weeks in the Dordogne (Domme area) recently.
Stu Dudley
Which "stuff" do you consider to be in the "Cahors area", and what do you plan to see in the Conques region - in addition to Conques.
Peche Merle is a "must see" and since St Cirq Lapopie is next door - see it too.
We've vacationed 2 weeks in the Conques region, and 8 weeks in the Dordogne (Domme area) recently.
Stu Dudley
Aug 25th, 2006, 04:21 PM
#10
I went to the same area last summer. You might be interested in the trip report, which begins in London but continues when we fly to Toulouse and spend the first night in Albi:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34652273
We stayed at the Hotel St. Antoine in Albi, which was very nice and was air conditioned.
In the Dordogne, we stayed in le Bugue at Domaine de la Barde. I really liked this place, and the restaurant attached to it is very good.
http://www.domainedelabarde.com/
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34652273
We stayed at the Hotel St. Antoine in Albi, which was very nice and was air conditioned.
In the Dordogne, we stayed in le Bugue at Domaine de la Barde. I really liked this place, and the restaurant attached to it is very good.
http://www.domainedelabarde.com/
Aug 25th, 2006, 05:24 PM
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fun4all4, my husband and I were in the Dordogne this past June and it was amazing. It's too bad that you won't be there longer because there's so much to see and do. Albi is a perfect first day's destination from Toulouse.
Stu, Ira, Nicky, St. Cirq and Carlux all provided invaluable information that helped me plan our trip. You can see pictures of many of the places you mention in my trip report: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...olyn&fid=2
Stu, Ira, Nicky, St. Cirq and Carlux all provided invaluable information that helped me plan our trip. You can see pictures of many of the places you mention in my trip report: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...olyn&fid=2
Aug 26th, 2006, 02:05 AM
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This is where I will be this fall north of Sarlat:
http://www.les-granges-hautes.fr/
You will find many nice things said about it.
Do check out the rental that poster Carlux has:
http://www.yourfriendsinfrance.org/
I have rented the La Fournil for a month in fall of 2007.
Enjoy...........
http://www.les-granges-hautes.fr/
You will find many nice things said about it.
Do check out the rental that poster Carlux has:
http://www.yourfriendsinfrance.org/
I have rented the La Fournil for a month in fall of 2007.
Enjoy...........
Aug 26th, 2006, 04:14 AM
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Hi fun,
>we[re] you in both Chahors area and Conques? >If so, which would you choose? <
Oh, dear.
We spent 5 days from Carcassone to Beynac and visited both Conques and Cahors.
You have only 7 days total.
How about this:
Albi is 1 hr from Toulouse,
>we[re] you in both Chahors area and Conques? >If so, which would you choose? <
Oh, dear.
We spent 5 days from Carcassone to Beynac and visited both Conques and Cahors.
You have only 7 days total.
How about this:
Albi is 1 hr from Toulouse,
Aug 26th, 2006, 04:36 AM
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Hi fun,
>we[re] you in both Chahors area and Conques? >If so, which would you choose? <
Oh, dear.
We spent 5 days from Carcassone to Beynac and visited both Conques and Cahors.
You have only 7 days total.
How about this:
Toulouse to Albi via Castelnau (about 1 hr).
First night in Albi.
Drive Albi to Conques via Cordes sur Ciel, St. Cirque La Popie, Cabrerets (Visit Peche Merle), the valley of either the Lot or St. Cele through Figeac (about 4 hr).
Overnight in Conques.
Conques to Beynac via Figeac (See what you missed the first time), Lacapelle-Marival (A beau village), Gramat, Rocamadour, Payrac and the back roads to Beynac (about 3:30 hr).
I think that this allows you to see the highlights, except for St. Chely du Tarn and the Gorges.
Enjoy your visit.
>we[re] you in both Chahors area and Conques? >If so, which would you choose? <
Oh, dear.
We spent 5 days from Carcassone to Beynac and visited both Conques and Cahors.
You have only 7 days total.
How about this:
Toulouse to Albi via Castelnau (about 1 hr).
First night in Albi.
Drive Albi to Conques via Cordes sur Ciel, St. Cirque La Popie, Cabrerets (Visit Peche Merle), the valley of either the Lot or St. Cele through Figeac (about 4 hr).
Overnight in Conques.
Conques to Beynac via Figeac (See what you missed the first time), Lacapelle-Marival (A beau village), Gramat, Rocamadour, Payrac and the back roads to Beynac (about 3:30 hr).
I think that this allows you to see the highlights, except for St. Chely du Tarn and the Gorges.
Enjoy your visit.
Aug 26th, 2006, 07:33 AM
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You all are incredible! After reading more reports last night and this morning and looking over another guidebook, I decided to go to Conques area from Albi then onto the Dordogne for the rest of the time. We will take day trips from there.
Stu- Wow! Many thanks for the excellent suggestions and detailed directions and information. Your time and effort are appreciated and will not go wasted - I promise.
Nikki- Terrific report with lots of good info. Special thanks for the Albi hotel recommendation. Also, Domaine de la Barde is on my "possible" list - I am so glad you liked it. Were you pleased with the convenience of the location (ie. easy to get around and fairly close to other locations)?
Moolyn - I just spent most of last night, including a stretch at 4am when I couldn't sleep, reading your wonderful report. What a lovely trip you had, and the photos were great. Thanks for all the details. My stomach was rumbling reading about the meals. I can't wait.
gracejoan - Have a wonderful trip. I will check out the info you have provided. A month....how fortunate for you!
ira - How lucky you were to have more time. To think, I began planning this trip to include Nice/Provence? Now, even a full week doesn't seem like enough time, but I do feel as though we will get to see and do a lot and really enjoy our time.
After more reading and research as well as the opinions above, Conques (and hopefully, Moulin de Cambelong) it is.
I now feel as though I have a good sketch/skeleton plan for a great trip and can go forward with reservations. Once I have accommodations, I have tons of time to work throught the detailed lists and choices. I have ordered the Michelin Green Guide for the area as well as maps.
Happy travels!
After reading more reports last night and this morning and looking over another guidebook, I decided to go to Conques area from Albi then onto the Dordogne for the rest of the time. We will take day trips from there.Stu- Wow! Many thanks for the excellent suggestions and detailed directions and information. Your time and effort are appreciated and will not go wasted - I promise.
Nikki- Terrific report with lots of good info. Special thanks for the Albi hotel recommendation. Also, Domaine de la Barde is on my "possible" list - I am so glad you liked it. Were you pleased with the convenience of the location (ie. easy to get around and fairly close to other locations)?
Moolyn - I just spent most of last night, including a stretch at 4am when I couldn't sleep, reading your wonderful report. What a lovely trip you had, and the photos were great. Thanks for all the details. My stomach was rumbling reading about the meals.
I can't wait.gracejoan - Have a wonderful trip. I will check out the info you have provided. A month....how fortunate for you!
ira - How lucky you were to have more time. To think, I began planning this trip to include Nice/Provence? Now, even a full week doesn't seem like enough time, but I do feel as though we will get to see and do a lot and really enjoy our time.
After more reading and research as well as the opinions above, Conques (and hopefully, Moulin de Cambelong) it is.
I now feel as though I have a good sketch/skeleton plan for a great trip and can go forward with reservations. Once I have accommodations, I have tons of time to work throught the detailed lists and choices. I have ordered the Michelin Green Guide for the area as well as maps.
Happy travels!
Aug 26th, 2006, 08:02 AM
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You will find out that a great part of the fun is in the planning.
Things will fall into place for you and your particular interests and likes. You will find with all the reading and searching that certain places will stick with you.
Enjoy........
Things will fall into place for you and your particular interests and likes. You will find with all the reading and searching that certain places will stick with you.
Enjoy........
Aug 26th, 2006, 08:21 AM
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If you want a lot more info on my favorite places, restauants, drives, sites around the Dordogne and also the Toulouse/Albi/Cordes/Conques/Figeac/St Cirq Lapopie region, e-mail me at [email protected] & I'll send my Dordogne and Languedoc itineraries. Do it soon - I'm leaving for a month in France next week.
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley
Aug 26th, 2006, 08:57 AM
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Yes, gracejoan, I so agree that half of the fun is in the planning! I, too, have found that as I read and look, eventually a plan seems to "gel" and certain things and places come to the forefront. In fact, the decision to travel to Paris and the Dordogne formed sort of like that over the last month or two as we considered numerous possibilies literally "all over the map."
Thank you, StuDudley. You've got mail.
Thank you, StuDudley. You've got mail.
Aug 26th, 2006, 09:17 AM
#19
Yes, really liked Domaine de la Barde. It is just outside le Bugue, within walking distance to town although we didn't walk. We drove to dinners in other towns not far away and saw sights in the area with no problems.
These are my photos from the trip, including some from Domaine de la Barde:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...0&y=6rbmeh
These are my photos from the trip, including some from Domaine de la Barde:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...0&y=6rbmeh
Aug 26th, 2006, 09:23 AM
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The day you arrive is on a Saturday. If you arrive early in the day, you have time to see a few things in the area before settling down in Albi. No need to get to Albi before 3:30 or so because all the stores will be closed, along with the Toulouse Lautrec museum (I think the cathedral will be open).
On Sunday, shops will be closed in Albi, so it's a good idea to head out early to Cordes, St Cirq Lapopie, & Pech Merle that day. Personally, I would skip Cordes (St Cirq is similar & so is Conques - except Conques is better IMO), and head to St Saturnin Noble Val for it's interesting Sunday morning farmer's market. Many of the shops in town will be open because of the market. Things will be closed in Figeac, but Conques - being a very tourist oriented town - will have everything open.
IMO, the Cele River road from St Cirq/Peche Merle to Figeac is more scenic & interesting than the Lot road. There are some very intriguing rock homes built into the side of the cliffs along the way.
I don't have any e-mail from you yet
Stu Dudley
On Sunday, shops will be closed in Albi, so it's a good idea to head out early to Cordes, St Cirq Lapopie, & Pech Merle that day. Personally, I would skip Cordes (St Cirq is similar & so is Conques - except Conques is better IMO), and head to St Saturnin Noble Val for it's interesting Sunday morning farmer's market. Many of the shops in town will be open because of the market. Things will be closed in Figeac, but Conques - being a very tourist oriented town - will have everything open.
IMO, the Cele River road from St Cirq/Peche Merle to Figeac is more scenic & interesting than the Lot road. There are some very intriguing rock homes built into the side of the cliffs along the way.
I don't have any e-mail from you yet
Stu Dudley
