kimhe

To make it a bit more difficult for you ;-)
Córdoba was the most advanced city in the western world around 1000 AD with around 500 000 inhabitants, 300 public baths and the largest library in the world:
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/andalucia/cordoba

Córdoba, vida y genio (life and spirit) gives you an idea of the special Córdoba feeling today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyfGdpF55Uk

I love Roman Córdoba around central Plaza de las Tendillas towards Plaza de la Corredera, a little north of the Mezquita. Plenty of traditional and affordable tabernas up here. Can highly recommend to sit out in the terraces in Plaza de las Tendillas long into the night in the week-ends. http://english.turismodecordoba.org/...n/roman-temple
http://dickschmitt.com/travels/spain...Tendillas.html

cybertraveler

Thank you everyone for the information on Córdoba. I can see that it is much closer to Sevilla than Madrid, so if we visit as a day trip, it would make more sense to do it from Sevilla.

Kimhe, those links gave a wonderful sense of the beauty and energy in Córdoba. I certainly wouldn't want to rush our time there, but I had thought that we could visit the Mezquita and perhaps walk through some scenic areas and Roman ruins in one day, rather than spend a night or two. What are your thoughts?

kja, I was only going on Rick Steves opinions about Córdoba. I got the impression that beyond the Mezquita, there weren't as many things to see there. I will do more research on that. Thanks!

Does anyone have some suggestions on which hill towns would be "must-visits"? Ronda looks intriguing, but is the drive terrifying? DH has managed some amazing hillside driving and parking feats in places such as Les Baux and Eze in France, but still...

kja

Unofortunately, the RS guidebook is exceedingly thin in its coverage of things to see and experience. You might want to consult some other guidebooks (which you might be able to do at a library). FWIW, of the guidebooks I used when planning my time in the area, I found the Rough Guide exceptionally useful.

"Ronda looks intriguing, but is the drive terrifying?"

You don't need a car to visit Ronda. It is connected to Granada by train and to Sevilla by bus. (Again, check the Rough Guide for good transportation information.)

cybertraveler

Thanks kja--I'll check out the Rough Guide. DH will be thrilled to hear he doesn't have to drive!

kja

I especially enjoyed the Museum of Palaces, aka Palacio de Viana, in Cordoba. Well worth a long stroll IMO!

kimhe

<I had thought that we could visit the Mezquita and perhaps walk through some scenic areas and Roman ruins in one day, rather than spend a night or two>

You have limited time, so I think this is a good idea. Highly recommend you to have lunch in one of the tabernas in the "Roman" part of town, much more local atmosphere and much better value. Many of them are listed here: http://www.cordoba24.info/tavernen/h...vernen_en.html

Taberna Salinas from 1879 is the most famous: http://www.tabernasalinas.com/

Or perhaps go to La Cazuela, just off Plaza de la Corredera. http://lacazueladelaesparteria.es/

When in Cordoba, you should try the local Montilla-Moriles wine, almost like sherry, I love the dry ones. Salmorejo is also one of many delicios local specialities: http://www.lifestylefood.com.au/reci...and-bread-soup

Rubicund

You mention Morocco in your original post, but it depends on where in Morocco and for how long. If you're intending to go to Tarifa to catch the ferry to Tangier, I'd give it a miss. Tangier is not IMO worth a visit and is about as unrepresentative of the country as you can get.

If you're going to fly then you can fly to Marrakesh, Casablanca or Fez, all of which are better to experience than Tangier, but you'll need to spend a night or two to make it worthwhile. There doesn't appear to be a direct flight as they all call at Casablanca on the way. The current Royal Air Maroc details say that a plane change is made at Casablanca with a layover of less than an hour.

cybertraveler

kimhe, thanks for the recommendations on places to eat That soup recipe looks delicious--I copied it and might try my hand at making it if I can find jamon! We'll definitely try the sherry while we're there.

Rubicund, thanks for the information on Morocco. I think we'll do that on another trip (or maybe not!) It sounds like Tangier is to Morocco what Tijuana is to Mexico, so not a place we want to visit.

Does anyone have an area of Madrid or Sevilla that they would recommend as a place to look for a hotel? If anyone has a hotel recommendation, we'd be very grateful!

kimhe

In Madrid, I use to stay in either Persal or Hotel Plaza Mayor. Both in the heart of the city and great value. The area: http://www.gomadrid.com/sights/plaza-santa-ana.html
http://www.gomadrid.com/sights/plaza-mayor.html

The hotels:
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/plaza-mayor.en-gb.html
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/persalmadrid.en-gb.html

In Sevilla, the last times I've stayed in Corregidor. Many stay in the beautiful but very touristy Santa Cruz district. I like the bustling local atmosphere up here, and only ten-fifteen minutes walk to Santa Cruz and the most obvious sights. The area arond Corregidor: http://www.theguardian.com/travel/20...macarena-spain

The hotel: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/h10-...=0&type=total&

MalagaAnna

Hi, Ive stayed int he vincci de Posada, its a very nice hotel and very good access from the local train station (malaga centro) but its a 10 minute walk into the historic centre and 15 mins to plaza de Merced, IMO the molina Lario is a better option,similar in price but a much better location as its very central and directly opposite the cathedral.

The city centre will be quite quiet in summer during the day as most people head down to the beach to catch a breeze.By night the centre is really buzzing with locals and everywhere comes alive, the main shopping street Calle larios is beautiful and will be open til 10pm on an evening.

For your teenage sons, they could catch the local train to los Alamos,just a few stops away and they will find some funky beach bars (chiringuitos) with good music, cocktails and a great vibe especially on weekends.

plambers

we rented an apartment thru sleep in seville. it was great-centrally located, clean, 2 terraces and views to die for.

cybertraveler

Hello again,

I am so grateful for everyone’s help as I plan this itinerary. Based on your input and research online and in guidebooks (Rick Steves and Rough Guide Andalucia), I’ve put together the following itinerary. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to improve it, as I’m just about ready to contact hotels and start making reservations.

Here’s my 18-night itinerary:

Madrid: Fly in, stay 3 nights

Segovia: train from Madrid, stay 1 night

Toledo: train from Segovia, stay 2 nights

Cordoba: train from Toledo, stay 2 nights

Seville: train from Cordoba, stay 4 nights

Ronda: train from Seville, stay 1 night

Granada: train from Ronda, stay 2 nights (possibly pick up car upon leaving to drive to Malaga or Marbella)

Malaga (or Marbella?): either train or car from Granada, stay 3 nights, fly home from Malaga.

I see some weaknesses that I’d like your help with:

• We have too many short stays, due to the fact that some of the cities/towns are so much nicer in the evenings when crowds have gone. Can anyone recommend a way to include these places with fewer short stays?

• Segovia is only 1 night, but it seems so lovely that it might be worth it: what are your thoughts?

• Ronda stands out as one spot that we could just do as a day trip, but train connections are few between Granada, Cordoba and Malaga; there are 5 trains/day from Seville, but the trains take 3-4 hours according to Rick Steves. DH could drive, but where would be the smart place to pick up a car? Also, Rondo looks closer to Malaga than Granada; should we visit from Malaga?

• Malaga or Marbella at the end of the trip would be a time to unwind by the sea: not necessarily beach time, just a calming down phase before we return to reality. Is there enough to do in Malaga or Marbella to merit 3 nights?

Thanks again to everyone who has been so helpful! I will be posting back again after I research more of the options for places to stay.

debinthepeg

I don't have an overall recommendation but there are buses from Seville to Ronda or vice versa. There are a number a day and if you take the "fast" bus that doesn't stop in all of the towns, the trip is under 2 hours.

You do have a few short stays, but I think they are worthwhile. We stayed 2 nights in Cordoba and 1 night in Ronda. I just packed my suitcases smartly so I could access everything I needed from one carry on and didn't open my other bags. Definitely enjoyed these two destinations in the evening when all of the day trippers left!

Your trip sounds wonderful - enjoy!

debinthepeg

Here is the link for the bus schedules. Not sure why but it doesn't look like schedules past April are available yet. You can see the buses though if you select a date in April. Times look to be the same as they were when we travelled last fall.

https://taqui.sinfe.net/venta?locale=en

kimhe

3000 year old Malaga if you want a genuine and laid-back Andalucian quite big city of 500 000 pop with excellent cafes, tapas bars, restaurants, sights, theaters etc. "Malaga: Spain's best kept secret". http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/de...pt-secret.html

Marbella is much smaller and more upscale international and tourist fun. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/pr...lla-rocks.html

cybertraveler

Thanks deb, it's good to hear from someone who has been there! The bus sounds like it might be the better option.

kja

Sounds like a great trip!

"Cordoba: train from Toledo, stay 2 nights" -- I think you have to go back through Madrid, but I could be wrong.

"Ronda: train from Seville, stay 1 night" -- I didn't think there are trains between Sevilla and Ronda. I thought you would have to take a bus. Maybe things have changed!

"Segovia is only 1 night, but it seems so lovely that it might be worth it: what are your thoughts?" -- I loved Segovia at night! It was much quieter after day-trippers had left, I was delighted to see the cathedral and viaduct in different light, and I was VERY glad to be able to savor my suckling piglet. But then, I don't mind one-night stays....

"Ronda stands out as one spot that we could just do as a day trip" -- Ronda is another place that I thought delightful in the evening, but if I had to choose between Segovia and Ronda for a single night, all other things being equal I would stay in Segovia. The problem, though, is that all else is NOT equal: You face quite a bit of traveling time to get to / from Ronda, so it might not be ideal for a day trip. Depends on what you want to see and do....

NettyB2

bookmarking

MalagaAnna

Marbella has a much nicer beach front for lovely long walks stretching a good few km stopping off for a drink or bite to eat along the way. The port area of Marbella and the old town are nice places to visit,you are spoilt for choice with bars and restaurants both Marbella and malaga.

Old town marbella would be a nice place to stay, http://malagatravelguide.net/hotels/...luxury-budget/

you can walk down the the harbour and the beach front in around 5 minutes too and there's a very nice orange tree square in the centre of old town to sit in the shade of the orange trees and enjoy a drink. There's more to see in Malaga obviously but if you want to relax then i'd go to marbella.

cybertraveler

I'm excited to report that it's official--I just booked our flights, so now I need to nail down the specifics on towns, hotels and transportation between places!

kja, I am glad to hear that you loved Segovia. It looks like it would be magical at night! Do you have a hotel or area that you'd recommend for us? We love a balcony with a view in an area where we can stroll at night. We'll have to look at Ronda more carefully to decide whether to do as a day trip or not.

MalagaAnna, that link was a great help. Those hotels look super, and I'm going to check their availbility.

kimhe, thanks for the information on Malaga and Marbella. It sounds like either one would be great.

Now, on to the challenge of making decisions about hotels...