Please critique my 5 day Rome Itinerary
Oct 4th, 2010 | 04:16 PM
#43
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
franco - since we're being precise about spelling (and I appreciate that), it's archaeology, not archeology.
Your posts are always totally illuminating. The Caravaggios in Rome are astounding.
Five days in Rome is so little, it's hard to pick and choose. I think I'd spend a half-day, though, in Ostia Antica.
Your posts are always totally illuminating. The Caravaggios in Rome are astounding.
Five days in Rome is so little, it's hard to pick and choose. I think I'd spend a half-day, though, in Ostia Antica.
Oct 7th, 2010 | 09:39 AM
#44
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Squeeze in Ostia Antica in your itinerary. You won't regret it. I even prefer Ostia to the Forum. The ancient floor mosaic is just breathtaking. It's easy to go there, too. Take the train and don't forget to stamp your ticket with the yellow-box stamper to avoid paying a penalty fee.
Oct 7th, 2010 | 10:01 AM
#49
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
If you want to be among the Pope's audience at St. Peter's Square, you have to get tickets from the Bishop's Office for US Visitors to the Vatican, North American Pontifical College, Santa Maria dell Ulmita. You have to have your tickets before you can join the throngs of pilgrims, mass attendants & worshipers. But then, it's all worth the effort once you hear Pope Benedict XVI say mass for the Faithful and hear the angelic voices of the choir and guest singers from all over the world.
Oct 7th, 2010 | 10:16 AM
#51
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Are you going on your own or with a tour group? We went on out own and liked traveling on our own time. Flexibility was our friend during our 2000 Jubilee Trip to Rome (and all over Europe when the dollar was King as well-no Euro yet 
Too bad, the Euro has strengthened against the US dollar. It's more expensive to travel to Europe nowadays.
Too bad, the Euro has strengthened against the US dollar. It's more expensive to travel to Europe nowadays.
Oct 7th, 2010 | 11:28 AM
#53
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,355
Likes: 0
As far as Ostia Antica vs. Tivoli, it depends on what you prefer in the first place, of course - both places are great, but not equally great for everyone. The Villa d'Este is a mediocre mannerist villa with what must be one of the most gorgeous gardens in the world - a mannerist water theme park, extremely refreshing in summer (when are you traveling, btw? did I miss that or didn't you tell?). Romantic (see above) is not what I would call it, it's more like an apotheosis of a lush, joyful garden. (If you decide on the Villa d'Este, you have to know that you'll have to go back to Tivoli another time. You're missing the sorely neglected but extremely interesting town of Tivoli, full of parts of ancient buildings incorporated into medieval ones (residential buildings as well as churches), plus two astonishingly preserved ancient temples; and you're missing Villa Adriana, certainly the greatest sight in and around Tivoli, Emperor Hadrian's private villa, probably the largest villa ever built, and partly very well preserved.)
Ostia Antica, OTOH, is one of the gems of Roman antiquity, and for me, probably THE gem. It's as well preserved as Pompeii and Herculaneum, and a thousand times better than the Roman Forum, but it's an everyday, hard-working harbour city; no elegant mansions, no artistically remarkable mosaics and so on. The mosaics, here, are shop signs; in front of the fishmonger's shop, a bunch of mosaic fish are swimming on the floor, next door are some vegetables, and so on. Many houses are so excellently preserved that after just three or four weeks of restoration works, you could move in. Attention, it needs a whole day, so is not compatible with your schedule.
Ostia Antica, OTOH, is one of the gems of Roman antiquity, and for me, probably THE gem. It's as well preserved as Pompeii and Herculaneum, and a thousand times better than the Roman Forum, but it's an everyday, hard-working harbour city; no elegant mansions, no artistically remarkable mosaics and so on. The mosaics, here, are shop signs; in front of the fishmonger's shop, a bunch of mosaic fish are swimming on the floor, next door are some vegetables, and so on. Many houses are so excellently preserved that after just three or four weeks of restoration works, you could move in. Attention, it needs a whole day, so is not compatible with your schedule.
Oct 7th, 2010 | 11:58 AM
#54
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 0
We prefer to see the Pope on Wednesday rather than Sunday because he comes right into the crowd. On Sunday you only see him from a high balcony. We have never gotten tickets to see the Pope. We just get there early enough and go right in. Check to see if tickets are really necessary.
Tivoli is very interesting- go to both Villa d'Este and Hadrian's villa.
I've been to Pompeii but not yet to Ostia Antica, but I hope to on our next trip to Rome.
Franco, thanks for all your information. It makes me want to go back to Rome tomorrow. My favorite thing to do in Rome is just leave plenty of time for wandering.
Tivoli is very interesting- go to both Villa d'Este and Hadrian's villa.
I've been to Pompeii but not yet to Ostia Antica, but I hope to on our next trip to Rome.
Franco, thanks for all your information. It makes me want to go back to Rome tomorrow. My favorite thing to do in Rome is just leave plenty of time for wandering.
Oct 7th, 2010 | 12:06 PM
#55
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
hi jill,
mostly i agree with all the above, apart from day 3 - monday -what are you going to do after 10am? Really you only have activities for about an hour on that day.
nearby the pantheon you have the galleria doria pamphilji [my new favourite in Rome] santa maria sopra minerva, the trevi fountain, and a little furthe afield, the capitoline museums. alternatively there is Trastevere or the jewish ghetto area.
mostly i agree with all the above, apart from day 3 - monday -what are you going to do after 10am? Really you only have activities for about an hour on that day.
nearby the pantheon you have the galleria doria pamphilji [my new favourite in Rome] santa maria sopra minerva, the trevi fountain, and a little furthe afield, the capitoline museums. alternatively there is Trastevere or the jewish ghetto area.
Oct 7th, 2010 | 01:56 PM
#56
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
I lived in Italy for a year and spent many weekends in Rome so I agree with the person who says you need half a lifetime to learn this city!
As a first time visitor I would suggest you pay the money and use a group called Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com/city/Rome) to give you a guided visit to the forum and the colosseum (a combined visit) because the forum especially is badly signed and impossible to understand alone. Without a guide you have no idea what you are looking at. It also gets you in ahead of queues which is important in the colosseum.
Use Context to take a trip to Ostia Antica as well, which would be a day trip out of Rome but a similar experience to Pompeii. No, I'm not on the Context payroll but have used them and thought they were fantastic! Ostia is an absolute highlight.
If you're going to Villa Borghese gardens, which are really just open parkland in the middle of Rome but not manicured pretty gardens like many people expect, book online (compulsory) and well in advance to visit the Villa Borghese museum. They have timed visits. It's one of the most wonderful small museums in Rome and takes about an hour to see.
Via Condotti is ridiculously expensive for shopping but stroll around that whole area for window shopping. You'll find many small boutiques in the old streets between Via del Corso and the river. If you're keen to shop go to the Sunday market in Trastevere. You can get the tram there - ask your hotel for directions. Don't set aside whole afternoons for shopping because you can do it in the evenings when other things are closed.
I agree with others to avoid the Vatican on Sundays. Go one afternoon as the queues disappear after lunch. You can visit St Peters in the morning and the museum in the afternoon quite easily. Cover your shoulders and wear long trousers or a skirt in the church.
You haven't mentioned Piazza Navona, possibly the most beautiful piazza in Rome, again a few steps from Via del Corso. It's as wonderful a sight as the Trevi in my opinion and there's far more space to walk. I'd suggest you do some internet research and work out a Bernini walking tour which will take you to some of the best parts of Rome. I also agree with all the people who are saying if you are interested in baroque art don't miss the Caravaggios in the various churches around Piazza del Popolo and in the old part of the city.
Give yourself an afternoon in Trastevere and do not miss Santa Maria in Trastevere which has the most glorious gold mosaics.
If you are interested in ancient Rome go to the new Fori Imperiali museum on the 64 bus route to and from Termini. It's an opportunity to explore Hadrian's forum. The baths of Caracalla are also worth a visit and are a medium length stroll from the forum - or get a taxi! The Museo Nazionale Romano near the station is an exceptional small museum as well if you are interested in wonderful artefacts from ancient times - I'm talking mosaics, whole painted walls lifted from ancient Roman villas, funeral heads etc.
I agree with annhig's comments too - day 3 looks quite thin. Doria Pamphilj is a wonderfully eccentric museum but if you are stretched for time leave it for your next visit.
Generally when we visit Rome we go to a museum for a couple of hours in the morning, buy a panino or pizza for lunch (you will pay twice as much to sit down so don't let that stop you sitting down but be aware!) and then spend the afternoon walking through one of the areas we're interested in. This is a good way to see fountains and parks and so forth. Many shops are closed between about 1pm and about 3pm or later, though increasingly Roman shops are opening all day, which is a pity somehow.
It's hard to get genuinely good food in Rome as so much of it is just for tourists but we recommend:
La Matriciana - this is a typical Roman trattoria with efficient wait staff and good standard food - it's one of our favourites because we get sick of gourmet meals and try hard chefs sometimes.
Via del Viminale 44
Phone 064881 775
Closed Saturday
Da Armando al Pantheon - a big favourite - it's right next to the Pantheon and serves typical Roman cuisine - salad with anchovy dressing, saltimbocca, artichokes etc. You must book here.
Salita de’Crescenzi 31
Chiuso Saturday and Sunday
Lunch and dinner
06 68803034
Pizzeria da poeta - This is in Trastevere on the other side of the river - it's recommended to us but we haven't tried it
Vicolo del bologna 45
No reservations dinner only
Palatium - trendy setting, modern food, good eating and drinking
Via Frattina 94
06 692 02132
In restaurants you will be charged a cover charge for just sitting down but it includes your bread. When you order your various courses vegetables are a separate course. Italians rarely tip but it is now expected of Americans - but you can keep it to 10 per cent and they should still be happy. We would never tip taxi drivers or room maids or anyone else, though we don't usually stay in places where people carry our bags.
So my suggested itinerary would be:
Day 1 (Saturday):
- Arrive and check in
- Visit Villa Borghese gallery in afternoon
o Stroll down through Pincio, Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps, via Condotti and surrounds
Finish with aperitivi (you'll get a drink and something to nibble on) in one of the piazze
Day 2 (Sunday):
Papal blessing if you're keen
Trastevere market, lunch and walk through the area
Afternoon walking around Bernini fountains (Trevi, Piazza Navona) and visit Pantheon
Day 3
Many shops and museums are closed on Mondays but Forum and Colosseum are open I think
Day 4
Vatican City
St Peters in the morning
Vatican museum in the afternoon
Castel Sant’ Angelo
Day 5
Ostia Antica morning
Keep the afternoon absolutely free for something you have discovered while you're there!
Hope some of this is useful and enjoy your trip!
As a first time visitor I would suggest you pay the money and use a group called Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com/city/Rome) to give you a guided visit to the forum and the colosseum (a combined visit) because the forum especially is badly signed and impossible to understand alone. Without a guide you have no idea what you are looking at. It also gets you in ahead of queues which is important in the colosseum.
Use Context to take a trip to Ostia Antica as well, which would be a day trip out of Rome but a similar experience to Pompeii. No, I'm not on the Context payroll but have used them and thought they were fantastic! Ostia is an absolute highlight.
If you're going to Villa Borghese gardens, which are really just open parkland in the middle of Rome but not manicured pretty gardens like many people expect, book online (compulsory) and well in advance to visit the Villa Borghese museum. They have timed visits. It's one of the most wonderful small museums in Rome and takes about an hour to see.
Via Condotti is ridiculously expensive for shopping but stroll around that whole area for window shopping. You'll find many small boutiques in the old streets between Via del Corso and the river. If you're keen to shop go to the Sunday market in Trastevere. You can get the tram there - ask your hotel for directions. Don't set aside whole afternoons for shopping because you can do it in the evenings when other things are closed.
I agree with others to avoid the Vatican on Sundays. Go one afternoon as the queues disappear after lunch. You can visit St Peters in the morning and the museum in the afternoon quite easily. Cover your shoulders and wear long trousers or a skirt in the church.
You haven't mentioned Piazza Navona, possibly the most beautiful piazza in Rome, again a few steps from Via del Corso. It's as wonderful a sight as the Trevi in my opinion and there's far more space to walk. I'd suggest you do some internet research and work out a Bernini walking tour which will take you to some of the best parts of Rome. I also agree with all the people who are saying if you are interested in baroque art don't miss the Caravaggios in the various churches around Piazza del Popolo and in the old part of the city.
Give yourself an afternoon in Trastevere and do not miss Santa Maria in Trastevere which has the most glorious gold mosaics.
If you are interested in ancient Rome go to the new Fori Imperiali museum on the 64 bus route to and from Termini. It's an opportunity to explore Hadrian's forum. The baths of Caracalla are also worth a visit and are a medium length stroll from the forum - or get a taxi! The Museo Nazionale Romano near the station is an exceptional small museum as well if you are interested in wonderful artefacts from ancient times - I'm talking mosaics, whole painted walls lifted from ancient Roman villas, funeral heads etc.
I agree with annhig's comments too - day 3 looks quite thin. Doria Pamphilj is a wonderfully eccentric museum but if you are stretched for time leave it for your next visit.
Generally when we visit Rome we go to a museum for a couple of hours in the morning, buy a panino or pizza for lunch (you will pay twice as much to sit down so don't let that stop you sitting down but be aware!) and then spend the afternoon walking through one of the areas we're interested in. This is a good way to see fountains and parks and so forth. Many shops are closed between about 1pm and about 3pm or later, though increasingly Roman shops are opening all day, which is a pity somehow.
It's hard to get genuinely good food in Rome as so much of it is just for tourists but we recommend:
La Matriciana - this is a typical Roman trattoria with efficient wait staff and good standard food - it's one of our favourites because we get sick of gourmet meals and try hard chefs sometimes.
Via del Viminale 44
Phone 064881 775
Closed Saturday
Da Armando al Pantheon - a big favourite - it's right next to the Pantheon and serves typical Roman cuisine - salad with anchovy dressing, saltimbocca, artichokes etc. You must book here.
Salita de’Crescenzi 31
Chiuso Saturday and Sunday
Lunch and dinner
06 68803034
Pizzeria da poeta - This is in Trastevere on the other side of the river - it's recommended to us but we haven't tried it
Vicolo del bologna 45
No reservations dinner only
Palatium - trendy setting, modern food, good eating and drinking
Via Frattina 94
06 692 02132
In restaurants you will be charged a cover charge for just sitting down but it includes your bread. When you order your various courses vegetables are a separate course. Italians rarely tip but it is now expected of Americans - but you can keep it to 10 per cent and they should still be happy. We would never tip taxi drivers or room maids or anyone else, though we don't usually stay in places where people carry our bags.
So my suggested itinerary would be:
Day 1 (Saturday):
- Arrive and check in
- Visit Villa Borghese gallery in afternoon
o Stroll down through Pincio, Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps, via Condotti and surrounds
Finish with aperitivi (you'll get a drink and something to nibble on) in one of the piazze
Day 2 (Sunday):
Papal blessing if you're keen
Trastevere market, lunch and walk through the area
Afternoon walking around Bernini fountains (Trevi, Piazza Navona) and visit Pantheon
Day 3
Many shops and museums are closed on Mondays but Forum and Colosseum are open I think
Day 4
Vatican City
St Peters in the morning
Vatican museum in the afternoon
Castel Sant’ Angelo
Day 5
Ostia Antica morning
Keep the afternoon absolutely free for something you have discovered while you're there!
Hope some of this is useful and enjoy your trip!
Oct 7th, 2010 | 06:04 PM
#57
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Ok... let me preface this by noting that if you don't like churches or religious art, rome is probably not a good place to spend 5 days. How could you not like churches? Even if you're not catholic, there is still inherent artistic and historical value to each in rome. LIKE A LOT.
Anyway, that sounds really good till Sunday at the Vatican- bad idea, the line will be hours long and you'd be surprised what they consider maximum capacity. I LOVE that you included Sta Sabina- it's worth it.
If you're into churches as much as it seems you are, you really shouldnt miss San Giovanni in Laterano and Sta Maria Maggiore, especially if you're going to see San Clemente (they're all in the same area). (both near there too). You could see all of them in about 4 hours if you take your time. If you're going medieval/preroman/roman DO NOT MISS the foro boario (arco di janus, sta maria in cosmedin, ancient temples!!!!!!!)- it's actually on the way to the Aventine (where Sta Sabina is) if you approach it from the Circo Massimo.
If you like Caravaggio go to S Luigi dei Francesi like someone above mentioned. Thrilling.
Baroque Rome is notably absent on this itinerary, as is Trastevere (an awesome neightborhood- incl. Sta maria in trastevere)- I think these are both important. Baroque started in Rome, you know... Not to be missed= Sta Maria della vittoria (***king da vinci code), san carlino (DO NOT MISS), san andrea al quirinale
Interested in architecture- DO NOT MISS the Tempietto, Palazzo Barberini, san stefano rotondo, and that other baroque stuff I mentioned. AND EUR- Mussolini's cray fascist village- is really interesting but far...
OHHH, catacombs!!! Why not?? A great catacomb/late antique site that's not far is the sta agnese (NOT in agone- that's in pza navona)/sta costanza complex.
Speaking of Bernini, If you do decide Villa Borghese (GALLERIA IS FANTASTIC IF YOU <3 BERNINI) make sure you book a reservation online in advance.
I love rome more than anything.
Anyway, that sounds really good till Sunday at the Vatican- bad idea, the line will be hours long and you'd be surprised what they consider maximum capacity. I LOVE that you included Sta Sabina- it's worth it.
If you're into churches as much as it seems you are, you really shouldnt miss San Giovanni in Laterano and Sta Maria Maggiore, especially if you're going to see San Clemente (they're all in the same area). (both near there too). You could see all of them in about 4 hours if you take your time. If you're going medieval/preroman/roman DO NOT MISS the foro boario (arco di janus, sta maria in cosmedin, ancient temples!!!!!!!)- it's actually on the way to the Aventine (where Sta Sabina is) if you approach it from the Circo Massimo.
If you like Caravaggio go to S Luigi dei Francesi like someone above mentioned. Thrilling.
Baroque Rome is notably absent on this itinerary, as is Trastevere (an awesome neightborhood- incl. Sta maria in trastevere)- I think these are both important. Baroque started in Rome, you know... Not to be missed= Sta Maria della vittoria (***king da vinci code), san carlino (DO NOT MISS), san andrea al quirinale
Interested in architecture- DO NOT MISS the Tempietto, Palazzo Barberini, san stefano rotondo, and that other baroque stuff I mentioned. AND EUR- Mussolini's cray fascist village- is really interesting but far...
OHHH, catacombs!!! Why not?? A great catacomb/late antique site that's not far is the sta agnese (NOT in agone- that's in pza navona)/sta costanza complex.
Speaking of Bernini, If you do decide Villa Borghese (GALLERIA IS FANTASTIC IF YOU <3 BERNINI) make sure you book a reservation online in advance.
I love rome more than anything.
