Planning My Days in the Engadine

Old Jun 1st, 2022, 12:36 PM
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Planning My Days in the Engadine

Greetings! I'm excited to be planning my 4th trip to Switzerland. Previously I've based myself in Lauterbrunnen and also managed to squeeze in 4 nights in Ardez in the Lower Engadine. This year I have booked my airfare and hotels for a late Sept/early Oct trip to the Upper Engadine. I'm traveling solo and will be in Sils Maria for 6 nights and Pontresina for 6 nights. I'm an avid walker though not necessarily a mountain hiker. Steep ascents and descents are a bit tough on senior knees but moderate ascents are fine! I plan to take full advantage of the transportation cards provided by both hotels to get me up into the mountains to start my hikes.
I read with interest the hiking suggestions provided in a recent post to AZwanderer. Here is my preliminary list of hikes:
In the Sils area: Via Engiadina (Sils Baselgia-Grevasalvas-Majola); Via Panoramica Val Bregaglia (Casaccia-Soglio); Water Trail via Frutschellas cable car; Trail from Murtel Middle Station to Fuorcla Surlej (I'm debating whether I would continue hiking to Val Roseg); Hike into Val Fex (sounds like I could take a mountain trail from Furtschellas cable car down to Hotel Fex and then walk back by a more level trail); and of course some relaxing walks to Isola, Chaste Peninsula, etc..
In the Pontresina area: Muottas Muragl Panorama hike including Segantini Hut to Alp Languard; Via Albula-Bernina Stage (Ospizio Bernina-Cavaglia) then continuing by train to Poschiavo; train and then hike Morteratsch Glacier; cable car to Diavolezza; hike into Val Roseg.
All of course are dependent on weather and my energy level! I welcome any comments/suggestions.
Also, I discovered that the Chestnut Festival starts on October 1st in Soglio. Has anyone been to this?
Thanks so much!

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Old Jun 1st, 2022, 03:14 PM
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I've been in Soglio during chestnut season (not during the festival so not sure what happens then) and it's a beautiful time to be there! There are some lovely hikes originating from Soglio.


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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 01:37 AM
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With knee problems I would hkie upwards and take a gondola or a bus in order to go down.
Some suggestions:
Pontresina - hike or horse car - Restaurant Roseg - hike - Fuorcla Surlej (direct trail or via Glacier Lake - Coaz Hut) - hike - Murtel - gondola - Silvaplauna;
St. Moritz - hike - Fuorcla Surlej - Murtel - gondola - Silvaplauna;
Sils - hike or gondola - Furtschellas Mittelstation - hike- Rabgiusa - Lej da Fuorcla - Fuorcla Surlej - Murtel .......;
Soglio - hike - Durbegia - Rosticcio - Casaccia (panoramic trail);
Casaccia or Lobbia - hike - Horse Pass (Pass dal Caval) - Lake Cavloggio - Maloja;
Alp Grum railway station - hike - Lake Bernina - Lake Diavolezza - Diavolezza restaurant - gondola - Diavolezza railway station;
Le Prese railway station - hike - Selva - Puntiglia - Braita - Varunela - Cavaglia railway station - Lake Palu - Alp Grum;
Marguns gondola station - hike - Lake Schlattain - Piz Nair - gondola - Corviglia (St. Moritz);
Sils - hike - Via Engiadina - Alp Suvretta - Pass Suvretta - Piz Nair.....;
etc. etc.....
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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 05:45 AM
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I’d love to visit that time of year.

I have mentioned this website a few times, and you may already have seen it.

https://www.andrewswalks.co.uk/categ...tzerland-walks

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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 09:15 AM
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A perfect time for a visit of the Upper Engadine. Been there a couple of times at this time of year and loved it every time.

> Steep ascents and descents are a bit tough on senior knees but moderate ascents are fine!

In this case skip Segantini hut. Especially the descent from the hut down to Alp Languard is steep and a bit tricky.


Some thoughts on the other hikes ...
- Via Engiadina (Sils Baselgia-Grevasalvas-Majola) - relatively short. Consider to walk back on the other side of the lake via Isola.
- Via Panoramica Val Bregaglia (Casaccia-Soglio) - Quite long, especially if you want to stroll through Soglio and explore the picturesque corners of this village. Don't miss the garden of Palazzo Salis (restaurant/hotel). Maybe start later, in Vicosoprano e.g.
- Trail from Murtel Middle Station to Fuorcla Surlej (I'm debating whether I would continue hiking to Val Roseg) - Any descent into Val Roseg is steep and tough on the knees. The easiest descent is if you follow the trail to SAC hut Coaz first, then turn left via Alp Margun da l'Alp Ota down to Hotel Roseg. That is, btw, better done from Pontresina as you arrive there after the hike and don't need to take the bus ride to Sils afterwards.
- Hike into Val Fex (sounds like I could take a mountain trail from Furtschellas cable car down to Hotel Fex and then walk back by a more level trail) - highly recommended. Quite easy via Marmore.


- Via Albula-Bernina Stage (Ospizio Bernina-Cavaglia) then continuing by train to Poschiavo - I personally found the walk from Ospizio Bernina along Lago Bianco a bit dull. Seeing the landscape from the train is fine IMO. I would start this hike at Alp Grüm and spend more time in Poschiavo.
- train and then hike Morteratsch Glacier - take the train to Bernina Suot and hike back to Morteratsch from there, nice little waterfalls and a beautiful Swiss Pine forest along the way.
- hike into Val Roseg - Hm, I am torn on this. A rather long-ish hike in a narrow valley with only few interesting views. I would take the horse-drawn carriage to Hotel Roseg and hike to the glacier lake and back - maybe horse-drawn carriage back also.

You totally miss the Zuoz area. Probably the most beautiful Upper Engadine village. Nice hike up to Es-cha hut. e.g. (but maybe too strenuous on the knees?) or along the upper end of the village, God (forest) Laret to hamlet Susauna and to train station Cinuos-chel. Totally off the beaten path and beautiful. Or visit Val Trupchun, part of the National Park, from S-chanf.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 10:24 AM
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Wow, wonderful suggestions everyone! I'm definitely adding to and adjusting my list. Thank you so much. And Adelaidean I had not seen that website before, it's great. Even with almost 2 weeks in the area I don't think I will run out of places to see.


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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 01:17 PM
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Oh, I forgot: Highly recommended is Val da Camp. Train and/or bus from Pontresina over Bernina Pass to Sfazu, from there small postal bus (reservation obligatory) to SAC hut Saoseo or terminal stop Alp da Camp (and back also possible). Of course you could also hike, but it saves you time for the really amazing lakes in the upper valley. Hike at least to Lake Saoseo, better higher up to Lake da Val Viola. I hiked back down to Sfazu on the southern side of the valley - just beautiful. Check needed if the bus also runs in October - no idea.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 06:56 PM
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Wonderful location for hiking.

I’ve done the Val Fex hike in the snow - I don’t recall it being steep.

have a great trip!
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Old Jun 18th, 2022, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Ingo View Post
- Via Albula-Bernina Stage (Ospizio Bernina-Cavaglia) then continuing by train to Poschiavo - I personally found the walk from Ospizio Bernina along Lago Bianco a bit dull. Seeing the landscape from the train is fine IMO. I would start this hike at Alp Grüm and spend more time in Poschiavo.
- train and then hike Morteratsch Glacier - take the train to Bernina Suot and hike back to Morteratsch from there, nice little waterfalls and a beautiful Swiss Pine forest along the way.
I am in the process of determining my Engadin itinerary for the first week of July. Rather than begin a new thread I thought it might be better to first utilize the wonderful information already made available in this recent thread. Thought it might help 70traveler as well if I were to clarify my points of confusion here. Regarding the suggestion above, I assume Ingo it would be best after hiking from Alp Grum to Cavaglia to then train rather than hike onwards to Poschiavo cause that alone would consume the day, correct? Is it a day's outing to train from Pontresina to Alp Grum, then hike to Cavaglia, train to Poschiavo, explore the town, train back and cable car up to Diavolezza, come down, train to Bernina Suot, hike to Morteratsch and explore?

Thanks!
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Old Jun 19th, 2022, 01:29 AM
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Yes, I would take the train from Cavaglia to Poschiavo. The estimated time for the hike Alp Grüm to Cavaglia is one hour, from Cavaglia to Poschiavo another two hours.

Frankly, if you do Poschiavo justice, visit one or two museums and the churches (key for the Baroque church Sta. Maria south of town at the tourist information) then you will not have time for the Bernina Suot to Morteratsch hike after the Diavolezza visit. I would rather spend more time in Poschiavo having a relaxed lunch, then do the sightseeing, then have ice cream and/or coffee at the main square and hop on the train back. Honestly, I am not sure you'll have time for Diavolezza.
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Old Jun 19th, 2022, 01:39 AM
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There are 3 hiking trails from Ospizio Bernina to Alp Grum. I don't know which one Ingo founds dull.
I would take the small path along the Western side of the Lake and then go on up to restaurant Sassal Mason.
From there you may go down to Lake Palu via Restaurant Belverdere - Alp Grum railway station (recommended) or take the steeper and less scenic path via Plan da Spagna.
Don't miss the Glacier Mills https://ggc.swiss/en/ between Lake Palu and Cavaglia.
Cavaglia is the starting point of the trail around the Bernina mountians (1 full day via Pass Confinal up to Rifugio Lago Palu (Italy) and another day via Pass del Muretto to Maloja (Switzerland).
The trail from Cavagllia down to Poschiavo isn't interesting at all (but rather steep).
If you want to include Diavolezza, it's better to go by train and gondola to Diavolezza first and then hike down to Lake Arlas - Lake Pitschen - Lake Nair - Lake Alv (Lake Bernina) - restaurant Sassal Mason.........
It's almost impossible to hike to Morteratsch glacier (Boval Hut) the same day.
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Old Jun 19th, 2022, 01:48 AM
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With my proposal, you will have lunch at Restaurant Sassal Mason and visit Poschiavo in late afternoon.
It's also possible to have dinner at Poschiavo and to go back by bus Poschiavo dp 20.05 - Pontresina ar 21.00. The sun will get down around 10pm in the first half of July.
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Old Jun 19th, 2022, 03:41 AM
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neckervd - if you had read my post carefully you would know which part of this trail I found dull.

> from Ospizio Bernina along Lago Bianco

All three hiking trails from Ospizio Bernina to Alp Grüm include that part.
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Old Jun 19th, 2022, 12:21 PM
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I'm glad there is more discussion on this. Yes, my goal is to hike from Ospizio Bernina train stop to Alp Grum via Sassal Mason. I realize the first part may be a bit dull near the lake but the views from Sassal Mason look gorgeous. From Alp Grum I would then take the train to Poschiavo. Or possibly continue walking to Cavaglia and catch the train there. All of course weather dependent as it will be early October when I'm there. I've been studying the Swiss Mobility hiking maps....so many hikes to do and not enough time!
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Old Jun 19th, 2022, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Ingo View Post
- Hike into Val Fex (sounds like I could take a mountain trail from Furtschellas cable car down to Hotel Fex and then walk back by a more level trail) - highly recommended. Quite easy via Marmore.
Thanks Ingo and neckervd for your inputs regarding the Via Albula-Bernina leg. I see all the options here clearly now.

Regarding how to best spend a day around Sils, and also incorporating input from another thread, does this make for a reasonable outing or is it too stretched:


Bus from Pontresina (base) to Sils. Explore Sils. Take Furtschellas cable car up, take the trail up to Alp Munt, down to Hotel Fex, then (as outlined in the link to Andrew's walk) cross the valley, around Sils, down to the Silvaplana lake, into Silvaplana. Explore, then bus back to Pontresina.

I have skipped the Waserweg/Lakes Trail while up at
Furtschellas even though I am taking the path via Alp Munt rather than Piz Grialetsch from where, it was suggested, there would be a great view of all the lakes. The alternative of climbing to Piz Grialetsch considering its gradient would save time and energy. If the walk along the Silvaplana lake is more time than is worth it, then one could consider taking the bus to Silvaplana. What might be a good place to dine in at the end of the day along this route?

Thanks!!

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Old Jun 20th, 2022, 01:23 AM
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There is not really much to explore in Sils. It is small. I'd rather head straight to the Furtschellas cable car station (which is a 10 minutes walk outside the village) and start the hike right away. The hike sounds good, but be aware that it takes a couple of hours to get from the top station of the cable car to Hotel Fex via Alp Munt. If you want a short version - via Marmore viewpoint is much easier. On the way back from Hotel Fex have a quick look into the chapel (frescoes), then you must decide wheather you follow the asphalt road (closed for most traffic with few exceptions) that passes by the iconic Hotel Waldhaus or take the trail via the little gorge of the Fex stream. Both options are nice. Afterwards you may "explore", meaning a 10 minutes stroll through the village, peeking into the church, if interested visit the Nietzsche museum, gaze at the typical Engadine houses and rather upscale hotels.

The hike along Lake Silvaplana may be too much for this day. Silvaplana isn't very special, btw, definitely not after exploring Sils. As for dining - there are several good restaurants in Sils, for regional food (highly recommended) you cannot go wrong in Hotels Post, Seraina and Maria (all on the main street). Garden/terrace restaurants mostly open till 6 pm, later dining inside.
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Old Jun 20th, 2022, 06:02 AM
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"neckervd - if you had read my post carefully you would know which part of this trail I found dull. from Ospizio Bernina along Lago Bianco. All three hiking trails from Ospizio Bernina to Alp Grüm include that part.

In fact, there is a large trail along the Eastern side of the lake (along the railway lIne) and a small one along the Western side of the lake. I prefer this latter.

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Old Jun 20th, 2022, 09:24 AM
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Problem is that the train station is almost in the middle of the eastern shore of the lake and you have to backtrack to get to the trail along the western shore. Easily doubles the time you need to get past the lake.
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Old Jun 20th, 2022, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Ingo View Post
There is not really much to explore in Sils. It is small. I'd rather head straight to the Furtschellas cable car station (which is a 10 minutes walk outside the village) and start the hike right away. The hike sounds good, but be aware that it takes a couple of hours to get from the top station of the cable car to Hotel Fex via Alp Munt. If you want a short version - via Marmore viewpoint is much easier.
Got it! I think it makes sense to do a final draft of my Engadin itinerary as its own thread now because there will be, I imagine, things particular to my own situation. Looking forward to all your continuing help, thanks!!
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Old Jun 24th, 2022, 05:38 AM
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Of course, Ingo, it's some 2 kms longer, but nicer.
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