Pizza margherita, per favore. Three generations visit Tuscany, Rome and Venice, by ms_go and daughter.
Jul 8th, 2008, 05:27 AM
#21
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<b>Some final thoughts on our week in Tuscany</b>
Having had a couple of weeks to think back on it now, I’m not sure I’d change much about our week in Tuscany. Again, we loved the villa and the location. With one week, I might be inclined to take one less day trip and spend a bit more time closer to home; maybe substituting one or two nearby small towns such as Certaldo for a bigger one.
We did take one “day off” from the excursions in the middle of the week and just hung around, doing laundry, relaxing at the pool, sipping wine, and soaking in the views. Having some down time is essential…after all, this was vacation for the adults. While we enjoyed all of our day trips, the transportation, parking, train schedules, restroom requirements, etc., all add a bit of stress—especially with eight people ranging in age from 3-73. I also think it’s important not to overload the kids on the cultural things. They did extremely well, but they also enjoyed the pool.
A week seems like plenty of time, but it went too quickly.
I’m already trying to figure out how I can return
With an Internet connection (existing) and a Skype account, and I could actually work from there! What do you say, mr_go??
I think that's all I have on Tuscany at the moment (as if it isn't enough, already). I'll probably think of something else later, but for now I will get my notes together on Rome and post in the next few days.
Having had a couple of weeks to think back on it now, I’m not sure I’d change much about our week in Tuscany. Again, we loved the villa and the location. With one week, I might be inclined to take one less day trip and spend a bit more time closer to home; maybe substituting one or two nearby small towns such as Certaldo for a bigger one.
We did take one “day off” from the excursions in the middle of the week and just hung around, doing laundry, relaxing at the pool, sipping wine, and soaking in the views. Having some down time is essential…after all, this was vacation for the adults. While we enjoyed all of our day trips, the transportation, parking, train schedules, restroom requirements, etc., all add a bit of stress—especially with eight people ranging in age from 3-73. I also think it’s important not to overload the kids on the cultural things. They did extremely well, but they also enjoyed the pool.
A week seems like plenty of time, but it went too quickly.
I’m already trying to figure out how I can return
With an Internet connection (existing) and a Skype account, and I could actually work from there! What do you say, mr_go??I think that's all I have on Tuscany at the moment (as if it isn't enough, already). I'll probably think of something else later, but for now I will get my notes together on Rome and post in the next few days.
Jul 8th, 2008, 10:33 AM
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Sounds like a wonderful time, just as I would imagine!
I have to admit that I also had pizza just about every day I was in Italy. I am a pizza addict.
I'll be looking for your Rome report. If possible, please post the link here so I won't miss it.
Thanks!
I have to admit that I also had pizza just about every day I was in Italy. I am a pizza addict.
I'll be looking for your Rome report. If possible, please post the link here so I won't miss it.
Thanks!
Jul 8th, 2008, 11:31 AM
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Thanks, all. Rome is coming, I promise.
socaltraveler--this was a different sort of trip, but still very enjoyable (except mr_go wasn't there). It was fun seeing younger kids experience these things for the first time.
LCBoniti, I will continue posting the rest right here. I could go for a pizza right about now; they just aren't quite the same at home (and our pizza in Chicago is quite different).
Grinisa, if you find the biscuits, let me know. I think we're long overdue for a GTG. I've checked Caputo's, since there's one up the road in South Elgin, but no luck (they did have something similar, but it doesn't have the very important chocolate half). I have a few other places to look around here when I have the chance. I did find a recipe online, so I may put the cook (DD) to work and see what she can produce.
socaltraveler--this was a different sort of trip, but still very enjoyable (except mr_go wasn't there). It was fun seeing younger kids experience these things for the first time.
LCBoniti, I will continue posting the rest right here. I could go for a pizza right about now; they just aren't quite the same at home (and our pizza in Chicago is quite different).
Grinisa, if you find the biscuits, let me know. I think we're long overdue for a GTG. I've checked Caputo's, since there's one up the road in South Elgin, but no luck (they did have something similar, but it doesn't have the very important chocolate half). I have a few other places to look around here when I have the chance. I did find a recipe online, so I may put the cook (DD) to work and see what she can produce.
Jul 8th, 2008, 12:16 PM
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What an enjoyable report! Thanks for sharing with us, I will keep this one for sure.
And your photos!! Excellent.
Your week reminds me of when I rented nearby your place for two weeks. We still didn't get in all that we would have liked to have seen. It remains a wonderful memory as yours will too, especially with three generations of your family together. What fun. (I loved your toned down descriptions of your mom's "concerns", ha, been there too!)
And your photos!! Excellent.
Your week reminds me of when I rented nearby your place for two weeks. We still didn't get in all that we would have liked to have seen. It remains a wonderful memory as yours will too, especially with three generations of your family together. What fun. (I loved your toned down descriptions of your mom's "concerns", ha, been there too!)
But I will be very patient... your reports are always worth the wait!
Jul 8th, 2008, 07:50 PM
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I am barely reading this - - I have always enjoyed reading other people's trip reports much less than I enjoy writing here (anything... trip reports, posts both long and short, you name it)...
But I want to give a vote of admiration for the general organization and style of this (set of) trip report post(s).
Good job...
Best wishes,
Rex
But I want to give a vote of admiration for the general organization and style of this (set of) trip report post(s).
Good job...
Best wishes,
Rex
Jul 9th, 2008, 04:35 AM
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Thanks for the kind comments, SeaUrchin, TexasAggie, Rex and Sue (and to echo Sue, it's good to see you here, Rex). I'm glad you're enjoying it. I truly enjoy writing these; I do a lot of writing for work, but this is more fun. I do go a bit overboard on the details, but that's in the spirit of (hopefully) being useful to others. I know a lot of us confront the same questions as we're planning.
<b>Our “home” in Rome: Palazzo Olivia</b>
We decided upfront to look for an apartment in Rome rather than four hotel rooms, for various reasons—not the least of which were being able to keep parents and kids together and having some kitchen facilities.
My primary criterion, of course, was location; I wanted a place that would be central enough that we could walk to most sites. After that, I wanted air conditioning (fortunately!) and at least two bathrooms. Laundry would have been nice, but it wasn’t essential. I didn’t think I’d have much trouble finding options, but in the end this took some time as the choices seem to narrow considerably when you get up to eight people. I poured over all sorts of agency sites plus VRBO. I found a couple of options that looked like they might work, but then I read some less-than-stellar reviews of the agency listing them. I was starting to get concerned…
And then I remembered Palazzo Olivia. It doesn’t have eight-person apartments, but it does have several floors—each with one apartment that sleeps up to six people and one that sleeps up to four. I rented Basilio and Bartolo, the two apartments on the third floor. From the common stairway/elevator area, there’s a big locking wooden door before you get to the two individual apartment doors. We could lock that and then open up the respective unit doors, making it seem almost like one big apartment—so this arrangement also can work well for a larger party.
Basilio has one bedroom, one bath and a fold-out couch in the living room. Bartolo has two bedrooms, two full baths and a fold-out couch in the living room. Both apartments had nicely stocked kitchens with plenty of utensils, plates, and glasses, as well as a microwave, coffee maker and toaster. Both had ironing equipment and laundry racks, televisions and telephones, and most other conveniences we needed. The building has an elevator, albeit one that only holds 3-4 people, or one person and several bags. We were happy to use the stairs most of the time.
The main concern I’ve seen in the past is lack of air conditioning. Well, Palazzo Olivia has added air conditioning. There’s a 10€ fee per day for using it, but let me tell you, when it’s pushing 100F outside, it’s worth it! We tried to go without for a few days, but we caved in on day three. We only used the AC in Basilio. Bartolo gets a nice cross breeze, and between that and the ceiling fans it did not feel as warm. In both, it’s helpful to keep the windows and shutters closed during the day when it’s hot outside.
Now, about that fold-out couch. DD and I shared the one in Basilio, and I was a bit concerned about getting a good night’s sleep—and not just because DD kicks. I was pleasantly surprised; it actually was pretty comfortable. Not quite like my bed at home, but no less comfortable than the twin bed I used in the Montaione house.
Via dei Leutari is ideally situated, running a short block between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via del Govorno Vecchio—just a couple of minutes from Piazza Navona and about five minutes (if that) from Campo dei Fiori. Access is limited to pedestrians and vespas. This is not to say it is perfectly quiet, but what in central Rome is? We lived through a few loud, late-night conversations on the street, a few sirens on the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, etc. The first few nights we had to sleep with the windows open and it was a little noisy; when we closed the windows and turned on the AC; it was nice and quiet.
Carla, the proprietor, is very helpful and provided suggestions for laundry, groceries, sightseeing, etc. While she doesn’t live on site, she is in the office there during most weekdays, and she provides contact information so that she’s always reachable.
I could go on, but I’ll let you read the other details on the website if interested. We were all very happy staying here; it was a perfect property for us and I would definitely stay here again (hopefully, I will; I did throw my coin into the fountain!).
http://www.palazzo-olivia.it/
Cost: 470€ per night. If we’d gone for hotel rooms, I figure we would have spent at least 600€ per night, maybe more, to stay in the center. There was a 70€ cleaning fee due in cash at check-out.
Now, if only I knew which Fodorite stayed there shortly before us? We found your print-out of Fodor’s “The Best Pizza in Rome” article tucked in a drawer
<b>Our “home” in Rome: Palazzo Olivia</b>
We decided upfront to look for an apartment in Rome rather than four hotel rooms, for various reasons—not the least of which were being able to keep parents and kids together and having some kitchen facilities.
My primary criterion, of course, was location; I wanted a place that would be central enough that we could walk to most sites. After that, I wanted air conditioning (fortunately!) and at least two bathrooms. Laundry would have been nice, but it wasn’t essential. I didn’t think I’d have much trouble finding options, but in the end this took some time as the choices seem to narrow considerably when you get up to eight people. I poured over all sorts of agency sites plus VRBO. I found a couple of options that looked like they might work, but then I read some less-than-stellar reviews of the agency listing them. I was starting to get concerned…
And then I remembered Palazzo Olivia. It doesn’t have eight-person apartments, but it does have several floors—each with one apartment that sleeps up to six people and one that sleeps up to four. I rented Basilio and Bartolo, the two apartments on the third floor. From the common stairway/elevator area, there’s a big locking wooden door before you get to the two individual apartment doors. We could lock that and then open up the respective unit doors, making it seem almost like one big apartment—so this arrangement also can work well for a larger party.
Basilio has one bedroom, one bath and a fold-out couch in the living room. Bartolo has two bedrooms, two full baths and a fold-out couch in the living room. Both apartments had nicely stocked kitchens with plenty of utensils, plates, and glasses, as well as a microwave, coffee maker and toaster. Both had ironing equipment and laundry racks, televisions and telephones, and most other conveniences we needed. The building has an elevator, albeit one that only holds 3-4 people, or one person and several bags. We were happy to use the stairs most of the time.
The main concern I’ve seen in the past is lack of air conditioning. Well, Palazzo Olivia has added air conditioning. There’s a 10€ fee per day for using it, but let me tell you, when it’s pushing 100F outside, it’s worth it! We tried to go without for a few days, but we caved in on day three. We only used the AC in Basilio. Bartolo gets a nice cross breeze, and between that and the ceiling fans it did not feel as warm. In both, it’s helpful to keep the windows and shutters closed during the day when it’s hot outside.
Now, about that fold-out couch. DD and I shared the one in Basilio, and I was a bit concerned about getting a good night’s sleep—and not just because DD kicks. I was pleasantly surprised; it actually was pretty comfortable. Not quite like my bed at home, but no less comfortable than the twin bed I used in the Montaione house.
Via dei Leutari is ideally situated, running a short block between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via del Govorno Vecchio—just a couple of minutes from Piazza Navona and about five minutes (if that) from Campo dei Fiori. Access is limited to pedestrians and vespas. This is not to say it is perfectly quiet, but what in central Rome is? We lived through a few loud, late-night conversations on the street, a few sirens on the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, etc. The first few nights we had to sleep with the windows open and it was a little noisy; when we closed the windows and turned on the AC; it was nice and quiet.
Carla, the proprietor, is very helpful and provided suggestions for laundry, groceries, sightseeing, etc. While she doesn’t live on site, she is in the office there during most weekdays, and she provides contact information so that she’s always reachable.
I could go on, but I’ll let you read the other details on the website if interested. We were all very happy staying here; it was a perfect property for us and I would definitely stay here again (hopefully, I will; I did throw my coin into the fountain!).
http://www.palazzo-olivia.it/
Cost: 470€ per night. If we’d gone for hotel rooms, I figure we would have spent at least 600€ per night, maybe more, to stay in the center. There was a 70€ cleaning fee due in cash at check-out.
Now, if only I knew which Fodorite stayed there shortly before us? We found your print-out of Fodor’s “The Best Pizza in Rome” article tucked in a drawer
Jul 9th, 2008, 04:40 AM
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<b>Airport transportation: Rome Shuttle Limousine</b>
We dropped our cars at Fiumicino before heading into the city. This, by the way, was not difficult at all. The rental return is in one of the terminal parking facilities (I forgot which), but it’s well marked. The only hold-up was waiting for an agent to complete the check-in: he was busy dealing with a family picking up a car, and try as they might, they could not make all their stuff fit in it.
I’ll take a brief moment here to mention that I turned in my car about an hour late (i.e., into another 24-hour period). That was noted on my final invoice, but Europcar did not assess any extra fee. Thank you, Europcar!
Based on recommendations here, we booked transportation from the airport to Palazzo Olivia with Rome Shuttle Limousine; 60€ for an eight-person van. B/SIL also used them to return to the airport for their flight to London (not sure of the cost, but less). In both cases, the drivers were pleasant and punctual. Office personnel were responsive, both by phone and e-mail. I’m very happy add my name to the list of those who recommend this service.
http://romeshuttlelimousine.com/index.htm
We dropped our cars at Fiumicino before heading into the city. This, by the way, was not difficult at all. The rental return is in one of the terminal parking facilities (I forgot which), but it’s well marked. The only hold-up was waiting for an agent to complete the check-in: he was busy dealing with a family picking up a car, and try as they might, they could not make all their stuff fit in it.
I’ll take a brief moment here to mention that I turned in my car about an hour late (i.e., into another 24-hour period). That was noted on my final invoice, but Europcar did not assess any extra fee. Thank you, Europcar!
Based on recommendations here, we booked transportation from the airport to Palazzo Olivia with Rome Shuttle Limousine; 60€ for an eight-person van. B/SIL also used them to return to the airport for their flight to London (not sure of the cost, but less). In both cases, the drivers were pleasant and punctual. Office personnel were responsive, both by phone and e-mail. I’m very happy add my name to the list of those who recommend this service.
http://romeshuttlelimousine.com/index.htm
Jul 9th, 2008, 04:45 AM
#32
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<b>Laundry and packing</b>
While I’m gearing up to write about what we did and ate, I will make a brief mention of laundry since I’ve seen a few questions about this since I returned. We made a point of packing light (most of us, anyway), so laundry was a must—well, also because everyone was sweating through their clothes in the heat.
On Carla’s recommendation, we used a laundry service on Vicolo delle Grotte, just off the Campo dei Fiori. I don’t recall the number, but it was most of the way down the street in the direction of the river; look for the “Lavanderia” sign. Cost per load (18k max) was 7€, although really free for us as we had a coupon from Palazzo Olivia. We loaded our laundry into one of the washers and then came back about 1:15 later to find it dry and folded. That was easy!
Even after attempting to pack light, with the heat I found myself sticking to the lighter colored items in my bag, or about half of what I brought. So for my punishment, aside from having to carry around unused clothing, I will now write 50 times: I will not pack anything black between June 1 and August 31…I will not pack anything black… Seems like I said the same thing two summers ago after our trip to southern France. Why don’t I learn?
More to come a bit later, and maybe some photos, too.
While I’m gearing up to write about what we did and ate, I will make a brief mention of laundry since I’ve seen a few questions about this since I returned. We made a point of packing light (most of us, anyway), so laundry was a must—well, also because everyone was sweating through their clothes in the heat.
On Carla’s recommendation, we used a laundry service on Vicolo delle Grotte, just off the Campo dei Fiori. I don’t recall the number, but it was most of the way down the street in the direction of the river; look for the “Lavanderia” sign. Cost per load (18k max) was 7€, although really free for us as we had a coupon from Palazzo Olivia. We loaded our laundry into one of the washers and then came back about 1:15 later to find it dry and folded. That was easy!
Even after attempting to pack light, with the heat I found myself sticking to the lighter colored items in my bag, or about half of what I brought. So for my punishment, aside from having to carry around unused clothing, I will now write 50 times: I will not pack anything black between June 1 and August 31…I will not pack anything black… Seems like I said the same thing two summers ago after our trip to southern France. Why don’t I learn?
More to come a bit later, and maybe some photos, too.
Jul 9th, 2008, 07:16 AM
#34
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YOur report was GREAT -- and it makes it SO clear why so many "Italy vets" post queries on the Fodor Greece section, asking "What Island to use as a base for seeing Greek isles??"
In the right Tuscany/Umbria areas, one can easily jump in the car and do 6 or 7 day trips from a "base" without fuss or stress. That does NOT transfer to Greek Isles OR really to to the mainland either.
In the Isles you can't just go at will, you are tied to ferry schedules --- and embarking and disembarking is much more time- consuming than finding a parking place. On the mainland, the mountainous terrain makes most day trips unfeasible.
So, Italy-goers, enjoy your "base" strategy but when you plan a GReece trip realize that the only workable strategy is, every few days, pack up and move!
In the right Tuscany/Umbria areas, one can easily jump in the car and do 6 or 7 day trips from a "base" without fuss or stress. That does NOT transfer to Greek Isles OR really to to the mainland either.
In the Isles you can't just go at will, you are tied to ferry schedules --- and embarking and disembarking is much more time- consuming than finding a parking place. On the mainland, the mountainous terrain makes most day trips unfeasible.
So, Italy-goers, enjoy your "base" strategy but when you plan a GReece trip realize that the only workable strategy is, every few days, pack up and move!
Jul 9th, 2008, 07:37 AM
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Thanks bob and travelerjan. And, travelerjan, I agree based on my very limited experience in Greece. We spent a week on the Peloponnese in March and did not use the base strategy--we moved from Nafplio to Areopolis to Monemvassia, and that worked out great (although we still need to go back to see the other half of the Peloponnese).
Jul 9th, 2008, 02:39 PM
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Thanks, twk. I'm glad our reports have been helpful. Scotland seems like a long time ago, but it has only been four years.
I've done a little work on some photos from Rome. They're not in any particular order at this point and the captions are not complete (and possibly wrong in some places...), but I'll go ahead and post since I'm a little slow in the writing department.
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p252022867/
I've done a little work on some photos from Rome. They're not in any particular order at this point and the captions are not complete (and possibly wrong in some places...), but I'll go ahead and post since I'm a little slow in the writing department.
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p252022867/
Jul 9th, 2008, 04:40 PM
#38
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ms go...
Your photos are magnificent! Are you a professional photographer? I will be going back to Rome at Christmas this year and hope to capture half the number of great pictures you have! Thanks for sharing.
Your photos are magnificent! Are you a professional photographer? I will be going back to Rome at Christmas this year and hope to capture half the number of great pictures you have! Thanks for sharing.
