Hello,

I am a new member but have spent many hours reading your trip reports and travel advice. I am hoping you all can provide me with some much needed advice for my honeymoon which I am just beginning to plan. We plan to spend a total of 10-12 days in Italy. We are headed first to the Piedmont region in early November because we enjoy the big reds and have a personal recommendation for a wine guide in that region. We also enjoy good food and want to experience some Slow Food restaurants, as well as hitting the truffle festival.

My questions are:

How long should we plan to stay in Piedmont? We have both been to Italy before visiting Rome, Florence, & Venice. I’m wondering what other nearby towns make sense to include during this trip? I was thinking of a day or two in Turin? I considered Lake Como, but read that most of the towns will be closed down by early November. Does it make sense to head down to Tuscany for a few days? Another area we considered visiting was Mont Blanc/Courmayeur, however we have no interest in skiing. Is it worth a visit in November?

Regarding Piedmont accommodations…Villa la Favorita in Alba has been recommended to me, and I have read many good reviews of that inn on here as well. However being our honeymoon, we wanted to spend a night or two at a “splurge” hotel like Relais San Maurizio. Does it make sense to stay at both properties? Or should we plan to stay in only one property as a base while visiting nearby towns? We are interested in visiting Bra, Barolo, Asti, Acqui Terme, etc.

Finally I’ve read that most folks on here have rented a car during their stay in Piedmont, however as we will have a guide/driver for our winery visits, does it make sense to rent a car or travel by train/taxi to-from the hotels and dinners?

I also welcome any recommendations for good guide books of the region, as I have had difficulty locating any. I thank you in advance for any advice you can provide!

The most comprehensive, overall guide to the region is the Cadogan Guide to the Italian Riviera and Piemonte.

I think you will be very limited in Piemonte relying on public transportation and taxis (and the latter can be quite expenisve). The terrain and infrastructure of the region really favors touring by car, not by train or bus. The roads in Piemonte are quite good, so driving is simple.

Torino is a fantastic food, wine and drink capital, with a wonderfully lively cafe and apertivi scene. It also has such a wide range of attractions -- from Egyptian museums to modern art, movie museums and car museums, plus shopping -- that unless you simply don't want to be in a city for much of your honeymoon -- which would understandably be the choice of many couples -- you might enjoy 3 or more nights there. It is possible to take day trips into the mountains if the weather is nice. Torino is likely to be noticeably cold in November.

Piemonte is one of the best regions in Italy to enjoy the high-end relais or agriturismo experience where a great chef creates great meals, matched with food and wine, in the midst of beautiful surroundings. Some wonderful historic buildings have become these relais, and they are big-time destinations for foodies. Even if it wasn't a honeymoon, you might not want to leave Piemonte without experiencing this special kind of stay.

In November, the mountains or the lakes aren't good weather bets. If you can leave your plans open and you luck out with sunny weather, you might have fun on the Italian and French Rivieras, using a car to get around to some of the smaller inland hill towns on both sides of the border. If the weather isn't great, Ihead to Parma and Modena, beautiful historic art cities as well as legendary foodie destinations that aren't all that far away If you don't like traveling without being booked, Parma and Modena can be enjoyed in all kinds of weather. If you'd rather travel without a car, Bologna is 2.5 hours from Torino by train, and it's a good base for day trips to Parma and Modena as well being enjoyable in its own right -- but you must book Bologna in advance.

From Piemonte, the wine areas of Tuscany are a long day's drive (more than I would want to do in a single day.) Taking a train from Torino to Florence is only 3 hours, and you could rent a car from there to get to the wine districts. If you pick Tuscay, I suggest you fly out of a regional airport, or Rome if you end up in southern Tuscany.

But as you already know, Piemonte is the inventor of the idea that "slow" is the way to go, so you might want to go with that and give most of your time to a slow exploration of Piemonte, giving plenty of time to the wine country (I'd put Mondovi on your list of places to visit, and maybe Cherasco and Dogliani), enough time to enjoy Torino, and inching your way back to Milan eating risotto around Vercelli, seeing the Certosa in Pavia, and then flying home.

Fortunately, Piemonte has yet to develop the kind of tourism that is all about staying on a loop and doing a typical tourist track, so even with the Cadogan guide, you'll be making up your own itinerary. Have a great trip!

I'm not a Piemonte expert (unfortunately!!), but I strongly advise, with your amount of time, against mixing it with any other regions. Why? There's definitely no need to, Piemonte will easily keep you entertained for 12 days, and in November (when days are short), it will not even be enough time to see all of it. About 10 or 12 days was what I had for Piemonte, but in August! mind you, some years ago, and I made the mistake and mixed it with Valle d'Aosta and western Lombardia. I would never do that again!!, and I ended up not having seen a considerable (southern) part of Piemonte. Torino, as zeppole said, is one of Italy's greatest cities, particularly if you have any interest in baroque architecture, and just one night wouldn't definitely do it any justice.

Thank you, I appreciate both of your responses.

I'm still unsure though, if I spend 10 days in Piedmont, should I stay at the same B&B or move around?

Thanks!

We spent 5 days in Piemonte this past June and had a great time. With 10 days I would be tempted to spend a few days in Torino itself and then move out somewhere into the countryside. We did a day trip to Torino and it wasnt enough!

Here is our trip report: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...dmont-2010.cfm

I agree---2 or 3 nites in Torino would be good.
Also, think about a car if you really want to enjoy the best of Piemonte. Villa Favorita got good feedback from a client.

Villa Favorita is lovely; I spent 4 nights there last year. I think that switching locations (not counting Turin) is a good idea since you will have the time. This will put you in closer reach of a larger variety of restaurants. If you need transport for evenings/dinners only, I would not bother renting a car and would, instead, rely on taxis.

We spent one additional night in the area at Marcarini; this agriturismo, owned by the celebrated vintners, is gorgeous and a bit more luxurious than Favorita:

http://www.marcarini.it/agriturismo/welcome.html


I considered staying at this hotel and although we did not eventually lodge there, I did check it out and think it might be worth of consideration if you are looking for an additional overnight venue in the area; I loved the town of Cherasco and there are several well regarded restaurants there that would negate having to use a taxi on certain nights:


http://www.cardinalmazzarino.com/


Here is the report I wrote after my trip; let me know if you have any questions and I will be happy to assist as best I can; I was very happy with our chosen hotel in Turin and would highly recommend the Grand Hotel Sitea:


http://www.thi-hotels.com/hotels/gra...tel-turin.html


Trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nd-bicerin.cfm

In June we spent several nights at Villa La Favorita, and I highly recommend it.

Ekscrunchy - I just finished reading your entire trip report today! I had lightly glanced over it a few weeks ago and it was your posting that prompted me to join this forum (thank you!). Had I read your report closely I would have noticed that you recommended staying at more than one area/property to provide proximity to other restaurants/towns. I plan to follow your suggestion! Today I took serious notes from your report as well as JulieV. I think I have most of my questions now answered, although a few new ones come to mind:

- I am mildly allergic to dogs and I see Roberta has one at Favorita. Do you think that would pose a problem? I imagine the dog does not go into guest rooms. Also, are there indoor areas for lounging/wine in the evening?

- My fiance would really prefer rooms with views of the vineyards. I thought Marcarini might provide that?

- Do you speak Italian? I noticed that many of the restaurants you noted did not speak English. Neither I nor my fiance speak Italian and I'm wondering if dinners will become a dreaded experience? I'm more familiar with the typical tourist restaurants of the big cities and during my last visit, although somewhat familiar with Slow Foods, I did not realize that you needed reservations - a lesson learned!

Based on everyone's posts above I'm thinking of 2-3 days in Turino when we first arrive (flying into/out of Turin) and then picking up a rental car to head to Le Langhe, etc. I assume Turino is a walkable city, with the exception of Eataly and maybe a few restaurants? Still can't decide on the rental car issue.


Jamikins - I will read your report tomorrow!

Thank you!!

I think a trip that was gave you 2 countryside experiences of Piemonte plus sufficient time in Torino for you to pursue your interests in a relaxed way (maybe even a day trip into the Alps weather permitting) would work well for you.

I can't weigh in on your "splurge" stay, but I will pass along this website for you, not just because it is a well-regarded Castello relais (but you should check recent reviews as always) but because the "activities" page of the website is actually a very good sum-up of many of Piemonte's attractions.

http://www.hotelcastellodisinio.com/events.html

One thing I always recommend to people planning a trip to wine country who know they are going to be drinking wine is to figure out how they are going to get "home" after dinner.

If you stay in a town, you can walk home and both people can enjoy wine with dinner.

if you stay where you have to drive home, somebody has to be the designated driver.

If you stay at a winery that serves dinner meals, easy.

My strategy is too pick a winery that serves dinner, and go to destination restaurants for lunch. One advantage for me of this strategy is that the cook where I am staying is usually willing to prepare me a smaller evening meal once I explain I had a huge lunch. You can burn out on eating in Piemonte if you are eating two restaurant meals a day.

Not all the wineries on this list serve meals, but some do, plus there is also a take on many other places to stay.

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a200811141.html

One other question - I'm not a big meater, let alone sweatbreads, veal, goat, etc. Is it safe to assume I will find some vegetarian dishes in this region?

Oh, but goats are typically grown on trees, so that's the perfect food for vegetarians!
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_h0OCXEbQMT...a126_goat1.jpg

Seriously, what do you mean by "let alone sweatbreads, veal, goat" - are these particularly adventurous meats in your opinion?

Most Italians only eat a meat dish as a separate course, but you should learn to recognize all the Italian words for meat, since I'm guess you don't want to eat rabbit either, let alone ass. Beef and lamb are the meat mainstays of Piemontese cooking.

I hope you like mushrooms!

Hi Chris!

Roberta does have a nice golden retriever but he does not go anywhere near the guest rooms, not does he jump up on guests. (I would not have liked that at all!)

The ground floor of the villa has a large sitting room/lounge as well as a few more private areas, so there is plenty of space to curl up with a glass, or two of wine, either inside or outside. There is a lovely glassed in "limonera" just outside the main building. Roberta has lots of books on wine, food, and architecture that guests are welcome to borrow. There is also free computer/internet use in the front room/breakfast area. Her English is impeccable, by the way.

I speak Spanish but not Italian. So I can understand about one of every three words but cannot carry on any sort of meaningful conversation although I know my food terms pretty well. This should not be an issue for you, as all of the restaurant people we encountered were most helpful and I think only at Ca de Re in Verduno did we find absolutely no English spoken.

Fred Plotkin's great book has a good list of Italian food terms and translations


http://www.amazon.com/Italy-Gourmet-...0356532&sr=1-1

and I am sure others will chime in with further suggestions.

See also Maureen Fant's "dictionary," out of print but available used:

http://www.amazon.com/Dictionary-Ita...0356472&sr=1-9



Our room at Marcarini faced the vineyards. La Favorite also encompasses vineyards but if I am not mistaken, these were up a rise of a hill and not in sight of most rooms.

There will be lots of vegetable dishes. Goat meat in Piedmont is a revelation. It was very mild, even milder than beef. Most unlike the goat meat that I bought once I returned home and attempted, with unspeakable result, to prepare in my own kitchen. Veal is also very mild. You must try these meats at least once!!

ek, hello - your information on Piedmontese goat meat matters a lot to me! I hope to bridge some of my gaps in knowledge on Italy next year and do either Piemonte or Emilia-Romagna in depth (two regions I know not as well as I'd love to), and the goat meat draws me towards Piemonte... I love vegetables! If it's going to be Piemonte, I'll be sure to study your trip report very well, it's certainly going to tell where to find those superb goats!

Thanks, Eks. I feel more comfortable with Favorita now that I know allergies won't be an issue. I can't wait!

Franco - I only eat meat (chicken, fish, pork, rarely beef) maybe once a month - and yes sweetbreads, veal and goat are particularly adventurous to me. I do love mushrooms though! I might *try* goat in Piedmont based on your recommendation, Eks. Luckily my fiance will eat anything so I think small samples will be easy to come by.

I really appreciate everyone's wonderful advice. I was dreading trying to plan this vacation (I would much prefer to leave it to someone else, sigh that is not my fiance!), but all of your advice, suggestions and recommendations have made this easy.

If you're a vegetarian, you'll have to do more than simply avoid the meat course. Agnolotti del plin, the region's stuffed pasta, is often stuffed with meat; two of its main appetizers - vitello tonnato and carne cruda ("raw meat") - are meat.

Sorry thought of another question: I haven't seen many mentions of Asti, Alessandria or Acqui Therme. Are those day trips from the Alba region? Are any of these locations particularly noteworthy? I'm ordering the Cadogan Guide now so perhaps that will answer some of my questions!

Thanks Zerlina - I'll add those dishes to my notes to avoid!

Chris, let me try to describe by analogy what puzzled me about that sweetbread-and-veal statement; and at the same time what to expect from your "small samples" - perhaps even what to urge your bride to order. You say you eat chicken, fish, pork and beef, even though very, very rarely. Ok. I'm trying to translate that into Vegetarian. Let's say chicken is potatoes: standard, definitely non-adventurous food (possibly incredibly delicious, though, of course). Fish is a different category since this is not one animal/one taste - it's a hundred different varieties, each with a distinct taste; so fish is like mushrooms, for analogy. Pork is beans: quality is differing widely and ranges from tender and delicious to outright vulgar. Beef is onions: non-adventurous and definitely tasty, but not always a fine taste (not all beef is T-bone steak!).
And now for the others you mentioned... Veal is carrots (possibly excellent, but just possibly: in reality, more often than not simply tasteless) - not exactly adventurous, I'm sure you agree. Sweetbread is artichokes: a bit difficult to prepare at home, but incredibly delicious; a rare specialty, upmarket, but certainly not adventurous. Goat is another story... let's say goat is cardoons, so it IS adventurous; only the very best quality - like the one described by ek - is enjoyable, but in this case, it's providing a memorable dining experience.