We are traveling in Sept. by car from France and would like to see the Picos de Europa in Northern Spain. Everything I read says that getting past Bilbao is a real horror; one wrong turn and you have to circle 40 Km or more. Any suggestions on how to stay on the road bypassing Bilbao?

Kay, we did this trip in the fall of '97. As long as you have the Michelin map for that particular area of Spain, there should be no problem. Just be sure to get the detailed map and not a map with all of Spain on one page--that won't be detailed enough. Trust me, as chief navigator, it's far easier to navigate in Spain than France! Don't remember the number of the toll road, but we whizzed right by Bilbao and never got off the main highway (at least I think it was a toll road). You'll love the Picos! We stayed at a charming little place named the Hotel del Oso near Potes. Just before you head into the Picos, you might stop at Santillana del Mar as it is a lovely little village.

So long as you stay on the superhighway A8 that bypasses Bilbao you should be fine. The Michelin map #442 is the one we used in June, and thanks to its detail we were saved from becoming hopelessly lost on more than one occasion. I heartily second Kathy's suggestion of including Santillana del Mar (one of the prettiest medieval villages in all of Spain) in your intinerary and also recommend the Hotel del Oso in Picos. If they are booked, try La Tahona, near Panes (Besnes-Alles is the tiny village). It's a former mill converted into a cozy and blissfully quiet simple country inn. Or <BR>try the Hotel Rebeco near the Parador and cable cars at Fuente De. <BR>

Yes, by al means bypass Bilbo and stay ant the Parador in the Picos De Europas...one of the most memorable and spectacular places I have ever been...an unforgettable trip. When in Spain, and in doubt about accomodations, stay at the Paradors..they will book ahead for you and they are good, food is excellent and typical, and they are predictable. We learned this by sad experience.

While I do agree with Julie's very good advice always to book Paradors in Spain and do so myself, on my last visit to Picos I was quite disappointed with the Parador at Fuente De and found it the least attractive of those I have experienced. With tired furnishings and aging baths, it seemed sorely in need of an overhaul. (I was told by the office in Madrid that they had considered closing it.) However, I found the food to be delicious, and the view is indeed spectacular-Picos de Europa is an unforgettable experience, for sure! If it has recently been renovated (and the central reservation office can tell you-phone 91 516 66 66) then by all means book there, but if not, for your money spent, I think you might enjoy the other Cantabrian Parador, the lovely "Gil Blas" in Santillana del Mar much more (but in high season the tariff is 4,500 pts. higher than Fuente De). Just a thought.

Hi, Kay. <BR>I have sent you a couple of maps (*.bmp) that can give you an idea of the road you have to take. Get yourself the Michelin map they have recommend you. I think Michelin does some of the best maps for driving in Europe, telling you even when a new road is supposed to be open. <BR>There is a toll motorway from the french frontier to Bilbao,(A64), and from Bilbao it becomes a free motorway (A8). The only problem I can imagine it´s that just before arriving into Bilbao, there is a diversion to reach the toll motorway going to Madrid, but you shouldn´t have any problem if you follow the signals pointing towards Bilbao centro, or Barakaldo, or Castro-Urdiales or Santander (all in the same route). <BR> <BR>Afterwards there is free motorway all the way until Cabezón de la Sal. There could be a bit of traffic in San Vicente de la Barquera, due to the crossing of the bridges (fine beach, templar castle, good fish restaurants). I like the coastal road from Santillana to San Vicente. If you have been to Ireland, it´s similar to the roads you can find between Kinsale, Crosshaven and Cork. <BR> <BR>In Unquera you can buy "corbatas", kind of a millefeuille, but tell them that you don´t want a box (they are old ones, and not so good). <BR>In the "desfiladero de la Hermida" you will find the small visigothic church of Lebeña. Potes is a nice small town. Typical from there is the orujo (eau de vie), but I find it quite expensive, the veal, and the cocido lebaniego (chickpeas and meat and cabbage and more things). Santo Toribio de Liebana is an old romanesque abbey that also deserves a visit. <BR>From Arenas de Cabrales you can go up to a very small place called Puente Poncebos. From there you can walk up through the Cares Gorges (although so popular that the only way to be alone is going there in February, snowing, and even then...) or to Bulnes (nice walk), a small (around ten houses) village, and walk up to see the Naranjo de Bulnes. A small train has been built up inside the mountain, but I don´t think it has opened yet. Both cases require walking shoes or boots. <BR>And don´t forget Cangas de Onís and the national park of "Picos de Europa y Lagos de Covadonga", my namesake, and the place where Spain began. <BR>Or Bilbao, we are not so ugly, and we are not only the Guggenheim. <BR> <BR>Regards, Covadonga

Thanks all of you. You've really encouraged me to try it. <BR>As we are only planning to spend a few days there and then go back to France (we fly home from Paris), I would like to know what to do about money. Do most places take Visa; and are there ATM's in small towns or do we have to go into big ones to find a bank or ATM? Should we get some Pesatas in France before we cross into Spain? <BR> <BR>Kay

Kay, happily you need not worry about using your Visa-it's readily accepted everywhere in Spain, and ATMs are most- plentiful as well; you will find them along the route Covadonga has explained to you- in Cabezon de la Sal, Unquera, Panes and Potes (no need to buy pesestas in France). Look for the signs "Banco Santander", "Caja de Ahorros Santander" "Banesto" and "La Caixa". If you need them in other locations, you can do a search: www.mastercard.com/atm/eurofrm.html for Cirrus and www.visa.com/cgi-bin/findNow? for Plus. <BR>Hope this is helpful.

to the top for Larry

Once you've left Bilbao, you still have 100 kilometres of motorway, and unlike until Bilbao, this part is free of charge. Before you arrive to Santander -in a village called Solares- you should follow the road-signals to Torrelavega and Oviedo, after the industrial part of Torrelavega -near there: Santillana del Mar, beautiful town, caves of Altamira, beaches...- follow to Cabezon de la Sal and the coastal nice resort of San Vicente de la Barquera. Two kilometres after SVB, you will arrive to the border Cantabria/Asturias, you can see already Picos. And two routes: if you enter the valley of the river Deva you'll go to the Picos at the province of Cantabria, visiting the wonderful "desfiladero de la Hermida" the town of Potes, telepheric of Fuente Dé, and a nice trip is to go by car to San Glorio -more than 1,600 metres, from which you enter León-, the town of Riaño, and from there the road to Asturias, entering the valley of Sella, until Cangas de Onis. Near there, the most typical Asturias: lakes of Enol, sanctuary of Covadonga, back on the route to Cantabria the route of Cares -doable only by foot, but beautiful- and if you like the very strong cheese, the village of Arenas de Cabrales.

Kay took her trip in SEPTEMBER 1999! <BR> <BR>Current posts are not going to help her.

So Kay, if you're still with us, how 'bout a report on your trip to help Larry?