Picnics in Paris (and bistro recommendations)
#82

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,860
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#83

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,860
Likes: 0
P.S. that was also a joke. If you know you know (cough cough Clueless)
fleur, I'm an equal opportunity park person. I was attempting to be funny, but as my dad often told me (and now Tracy), "You need a new writer!" Paris is a little different. Where I live, I just try and find a park without gunfire and used needles.
fleur, I'm an equal opportunity park person. I was attempting to be funny, but as my dad often told me (and now Tracy), "You need a new writer!" Paris is a little different. Where I live, I just try and find a park without gunfire and used needles.
Happy Travels!
#84

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,860
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If that's your criteria for finding parks near you, you must live in LA!
Touché! Paris, it is not.
All poor CC wanted were a few picnic suggestions, and it broke out into class warfare. I'm sure you will find a suitable place to picnic, and forget we all chimed in. Have a lovely time with your daughter.
Touché! Paris, it is not.
All poor CC wanted were a few picnic suggestions, and it broke out into class warfare. I'm sure you will find a suitable place to picnic, and forget we all chimed in. Have a lovely time with your daughter.
Happy Travels!
#85

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,860
Likes: 0
Here's a link to over 1000 TA reviews about the park -
xxx*
Opinions vary - including it being one of the most beautiful parks in Paris, a wonderful place to spend time, and several mention enjoying picnics there. I only read about the first dozen, but I did not see any negative reviews.
Nannies and the neighborhood are mentioned in many, but interestingly enough those mentions were not negative in any way.
I still think it's a great choice, but I don't see nice neighborhoods and nannies as a problem either.
* You'll have to look up the TA reviews for the link. Fodors is not accepting the link (again).
xxx*
Opinions vary - including it being one of the most beautiful parks in Paris, a wonderful place to spend time, and several mention enjoying picnics there. I only read about the first dozen, but I did not see any negative reviews.
Nannies and the neighborhood are mentioned in many, but interestingly enough those mentions were not negative in any way.
I still think it's a great choice, but I don't see nice neighborhoods and nannies as a problem either.
* You'll have to look up the TA reviews for the link. Fodors is not accepting the link (again).
Happy Travels!
#86
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
I enjoyed all the park commentary (thank you for all your thoughts Kerouac - I have learned a lot from you about Paris over the years!) and appreciate the reminder to go to the Musée Nissim de Camondo. I'm here in Paris (Vincennes) and plan to go tomorrow!
#87




Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 84,782
Likes: 46
https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/fr
Now I'll have to go in fall 2024 to see what changes they make!
The cafe -
https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.c...cquemart-andre
#90

Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
I hope you had a great time in Paris.
Oddly enough, there are no picnic areas (as you would find in other parts of the world) in Paris. I mean areas where you can sit at a table and enjoy your own lunch or dinner. Even around Paris, I can only think of 2 sites with a very limited number of tables (one of them being Versailles).
A few years ago, it was not even allowed to pull a blanket on a park lawn. Not sure it is the best initiative from Paris mayor but, at least, it is now possible to enjoy a picnic in most parks.
also worth of note is that alcohol consumption is theoretically prohibited in parks. An employee may ask you to keep your bottle out of sight... but like most park regulations, nobody cares (no smoking, dog on leash, loud music...)
Oddly enough, there are no picnic areas (as you would find in other parts of the world) in Paris. I mean areas where you can sit at a table and enjoy your own lunch or dinner. Even around Paris, I can only think of 2 sites with a very limited number of tables (one of them being Versailles).
A few years ago, it was not even allowed to pull a blanket on a park lawn. Not sure it is the best initiative from Paris mayor but, at least, it is now possible to enjoy a picnic in most parks.
also worth of note is that alcohol consumption is theoretically prohibited in parks. An employee may ask you to keep your bottle out of sight... but like most park regulations, nobody cares (no smoking, dog on leash, loud music...)
#93


Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,304
Likes: 0
The banks of the Seine are rarely very comfortable for picnics, even though they are popular. If you would really like to stretch out on the grass like in a Renoir painting, you will need to go to one of the big parks -- Buttes Chaumont, Montsouris, Parc de la Villette, Parc André Citroën, Parc Martin Luther King come to mind, or else the Bois de Vincennes or the Bois de Boulogne.
I remain aghast at the number of people who think of picnics as sitting on a bench eating a sandwich.
I remain aghast at the number of people who think of picnics as sitting on a bench eating a sandwich.

How was your trip, CC?
#95
Original Poster

Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 31,943
Likes: 19
Hi Flygirl. Great trip, really enjoyed it.... and probably missed more sites than we actually saw. Which is fine... didn't travel 30 hours each way to stand in lines and fight crowds. Still found plenty to do. Pop up art markets, the Bastille market on the Sunday. We did take a night tour of the Palais Garnier strolling there roughly from from the Arc de Triomphe (not along the Champs-Elysees after the first few blocks)
In the end, we did have some takeaway in the Tuilleries when we felt hungry and didn't really end up making a big thing out of a picnic. Also sat awhile and got off my bum ankle in that small park directly behind Sacre Coeur. What a little oasis for a few peaceful minutes after the crowds out front!
We did actually pull together a lunch-lunch on a shady stoop (so at least not a park bench!) in a little fenced-off courtyard next to a church in (I think), the 6th and that was enjoyable. Most of the restaurants right around there seemed to be of the variety where everyone sat facing outward, shoulder to shoulder, "people watching". Being "people" ourselves, even walking by those packed places made us feel just a tiny bit like the gorilla at our zoo must feel, lol.... so we did our own thing until our choux pastry class started back behind Maison Fleuret.
Popped into Shakespeare and Co at the request of my absent but bookshop-loving wife so we could report back. Bought her a copy of The Hunchback of Notre Dame, which seemed to make sense at the time. MIL got an autobiography of Agatha Christie. Busy place but fun. We did a similar stop at the Librairie Acqua Alta in Venice later in the trip.
Everyone seemed to say there's not a great deal to see in the 14th but we were really glad we stayed where we did. Hotel in Rue Delambre, directly between Edgar Quinet and Vavin stations. Notre-Dame des Champs was an easy extra little walk. I'd had my doubts wondering if I'd booked something disappointing out of just not knowing and being budget-minded, but it was good. I think I liked that it was further away and also less .. I don't know.. intense? Not smack dab in the middle of a postcard street but definitely knew where you were. Still had tons of that Paris feel with areas around both nearest stations with those 6-way intersections being leafy and dripping with flowers hung from the bright canopies. Quite pretty (IMO anyway). Lots of options for crepes, fresh fruit, groceries, bakeries and cafes very close by. Nothing felt too much tied into the tourist trade around there but they weren't thrown off by my bumbling tourist ways either.
We came away thinking everyone who says Parisians are rude must have had way different experiences than we did... and I didn't come exactly overromanticising Paris. It wasn't really on my list, to be honest... it was my daughter's pick and that was just about food more than anything (she was right about that, btw). Came away thinking i wouldn't mind coming back someday. Don't think we ever had anything remotely rude happen from Parisians themselves and enjoyed a number of chats here and there. (now, if we include the people posing for 10+ minutes in front of doorways and paintings for their Instagram followers.... )
In the end, we did have some takeaway in the Tuilleries when we felt hungry and didn't really end up making a big thing out of a picnic. Also sat awhile and got off my bum ankle in that small park directly behind Sacre Coeur. What a little oasis for a few peaceful minutes after the crowds out front!
We did actually pull together a lunch-lunch on a shady stoop (so at least not a park bench!) in a little fenced-off courtyard next to a church in (I think), the 6th and that was enjoyable. Most of the restaurants right around there seemed to be of the variety where everyone sat facing outward, shoulder to shoulder, "people watching". Being "people" ourselves, even walking by those packed places made us feel just a tiny bit like the gorilla at our zoo must feel, lol.... so we did our own thing until our choux pastry class started back behind Maison Fleuret.
Popped into Shakespeare and Co at the request of my absent but bookshop-loving wife so we could report back. Bought her a copy of The Hunchback of Notre Dame, which seemed to make sense at the time. MIL got an autobiography of Agatha Christie. Busy place but fun. We did a similar stop at the Librairie Acqua Alta in Venice later in the trip.
Everyone seemed to say there's not a great deal to see in the 14th but we were really glad we stayed where we did. Hotel in Rue Delambre, directly between Edgar Quinet and Vavin stations. Notre-Dame des Champs was an easy extra little walk. I'd had my doubts wondering if I'd booked something disappointing out of just not knowing and being budget-minded, but it was good. I think I liked that it was further away and also less .. I don't know.. intense? Not smack dab in the middle of a postcard street but definitely knew where you were. Still had tons of that Paris feel with areas around both nearest stations with those 6-way intersections being leafy and dripping with flowers hung from the bright canopies. Quite pretty (IMO anyway). Lots of options for crepes, fresh fruit, groceries, bakeries and cafes very close by. Nothing felt too much tied into the tourist trade around there but they weren't thrown off by my bumbling tourist ways either.
We came away thinking everyone who says Parisians are rude must have had way different experiences than we did... and I didn't come exactly overromanticising Paris. It wasn't really on my list, to be honest... it was my daughter's pick and that was just about food more than anything (she was right about that, btw). Came away thinking i wouldn't mind coming back someday. Don't think we ever had anything remotely rude happen from Parisians themselves and enjoyed a number of chats here and there. (now, if we include the people posing for 10+ minutes in front of doorways and paintings for their Instagram followers.... )
#96
Original Poster

Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 31,943
Likes: 19
Sorry, that was darn near a trip report. Short version was that we really love Paris a lot, maybe even more than any one place the rest of the trip (various Italian destinations). Appreciated the advice above and thanks to all for giving it, though we ended up not making a picnic-based side trip after all.
#97
Original Poster

Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 31,943
Likes: 19
One thing we couldn't complain about the whole trip was weather! That is one family that is super committed to picnicking.
For us, it rained one night, well after we got back to the hotel in Paris. The rest of the trip hung around a glorious 24C by afternoons and was usually sunny with light clouds, just to help with making photos better. We really lucked out. It even cooled off again after a hot spell just as we landed back in Melbourne. Only Singapore was kind of uncomfortable and sweaty (but of course, why wouldn't it be?)
For us, it rained one night, well after we got back to the hotel in Paris. The rest of the trip hung around a glorious 24C by afternoons and was usually sunny with light clouds, just to help with making photos better. We really lucked out. It even cooled off again after a hot spell just as we landed back in Melbourne. Only Singapore was kind of uncomfortable and sweaty (but of course, why wouldn't it be?)
#98

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 23,437
Likes: 0
One thing we couldn't complain about the whole trip was weather! That is one family that is super committed to picnicking.
For us, it rained one night, well after we got back to the hotel in Paris. The rest of the trip hung around a glorious 24C by afternoons and was usually sunny with light clouds, just to help with making photos better. We really lucked out. It even cooled off again after a hot spell just as we landed back in Melbourne. Only Singapore was kind of uncomfortable and sweaty (but of course, why wouldn't it be?)
For us, it rained one night, well after we got back to the hotel in Paris. The rest of the trip hung around a glorious 24C by afternoons and was usually sunny with light clouds, just to help with making photos better. We really lucked out. It even cooled off again after a hot spell just as we landed back in Melbourne. Only Singapore was kind of uncomfortable and sweaty (but of course, why wouldn't it be?)
#100

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 24,034
Likes: 6
It is never a mistake to stay in the 14th arrondissement. I can't imagine who might have implied otherwise. It is a totally authentic area and not too touristy -- and there ARE things to see: the cemetery, the catacombs, the Parc Montsouris, the Cité Universitaire architectural complex, the Place de Catalogne by Ricardo Bofill, just to name a few...


Totally worth it. Thanks again to everyone.