Peggy does Deutschland...
Jun 16th, 2013, 07:06 PM
#41
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I think this is going to be the longest trip report in history, but I'm on a roll.
I took the train the next day for Weimar, which is a really charming as well as a very historic town. It is wonderfully walkable. If I had even a modicum of culture I would have visited the Schillerhaus or the Goethe Museum or the Bauhaus Museum, but since I had only 2 nights there I contented myself with doing a lot of strolling around the city center and along the flood-swollen Ilm river.
The architecture in Weimar is varied and striking, with some buildings like the Deutsches Nationaltheater built in classic design of limestone, whereas others are very colorful and distinctive in shape and design.
The city center is a pedestrian zone lined with huge trees that arch over a street filled with shops and cafes of all kinds. I took a photo of a bookstore which was established in 1710. I live in a city which has few buildings older than 100 years, so I was fascinated with its longevity.
Near my hotel I saw the Deutsches Nationaltheater, which was presenting Shakespeare's "Der Kaufmann von Venedig." The vocabulary struck me as funny because I translate "Kaufmann" as "salesman." Thus, according to my translation, the title was "The Salesman of Venice," instead of "The Merchant of Venice." Not quite the right connotation.
I stayed at the very elegant Russischer Hof Hotel, though I did not partake of breakfast there because it was outrageously expensive. On my second night, I wanted to have dinner in the restaurant there, but I had no reservation and couldn't get a table. Despite the fact that it was pouring rain, I had to venture out for food. I settled on a pizza place and asked for two slices of pizza; however, the slices were so huge that I was able to eat only one.
After stuffing myself with a healthy meal of pizza and pepsi, I slogged back to the hotel, really very wet, especially my pants. The room had one of those trouser pressers, where you put your pants neatly into the apparatus with the creases in place, and then you turn the thing on. It didn't work very well, as my pants were really soaked. But I was full of pizza and pepsi, so I didn't care.
The next morning I took a taxi to the Europcar facility to get my rental auto. It was an automatic but for some reason was not any more expensive than a standard transmission would have been. AND it had a GPS! That was great because I was headed for a rather obscure little town called Wernigerode and the map indicated that I'd be going via secondary roads.
I took the train the next day for Weimar, which is a really charming as well as a very historic town. It is wonderfully walkable. If I had even a modicum of culture I would have visited the Schillerhaus or the Goethe Museum or the Bauhaus Museum, but since I had only 2 nights there I contented myself with doing a lot of strolling around the city center and along the flood-swollen Ilm river.
The architecture in Weimar is varied and striking, with some buildings like the Deutsches Nationaltheater built in classic design of limestone, whereas others are very colorful and distinctive in shape and design.
The city center is a pedestrian zone lined with huge trees that arch over a street filled with shops and cafes of all kinds. I took a photo of a bookstore which was established in 1710. I live in a city which has few buildings older than 100 years, so I was fascinated with its longevity.
Near my hotel I saw the Deutsches Nationaltheater, which was presenting Shakespeare's "Der Kaufmann von Venedig." The vocabulary struck me as funny because I translate "Kaufmann" as "salesman." Thus, according to my translation, the title was "The Salesman of Venice," instead of "The Merchant of Venice." Not quite the right connotation.
I stayed at the very elegant Russischer Hof Hotel, though I did not partake of breakfast there because it was outrageously expensive. On my second night, I wanted to have dinner in the restaurant there, but I had no reservation and couldn't get a table. Despite the fact that it was pouring rain, I had to venture out for food. I settled on a pizza place and asked for two slices of pizza; however, the slices were so huge that I was able to eat only one.
After stuffing myself with a healthy meal of pizza and pepsi, I slogged back to the hotel, really very wet, especially my pants. The room had one of those trouser pressers, where you put your pants neatly into the apparatus with the creases in place, and then you turn the thing on. It didn't work very well, as my pants were really soaked. But I was full of pizza and pepsi, so I didn't care.
The next morning I took a taxi to the Europcar facility to get my rental auto. It was an automatic but for some reason was not any more expensive than a standard transmission would have been. AND it had a GPS! That was great because I was headed for a rather obscure little town called Wernigerode and the map indicated that I'd be going via secondary roads.
Jun 17th, 2013, 12:53 AM
#42
Very expensive breakfasts seem to be a growing thing in German hotels, last year in Magdeburg we avoided a 20 Euro breakfast and had a massive one for Euro 8 across the street in a food hall. Strange that the management don't seem to check competition but, as you say, maybe just businesses are used to picking up the tab
Jun 17th, 2013, 01:03 AM
#43
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Interesting that you liked the architecture of Deutsches Nationaltheater in Weimar. It was destroyed by bombs on 9 Feb 1945, was reconstructed and is also fake.
Have stayed in the Westin in Leipzig, too. Completely agree with you, was not impressed at all. The breakfast was included in my roomrate, fortunately (sepecial deal), and it was excellent, I would not have paid that much money for it.
I would like to learn more about Kaufmann - merchant/salesman. A "Kaufmann" in German is basically someone who is in business of selling and/or buying. It does not necessarily mean a small shop. For example, there is (or at least was) a recognized occupation requiring formal training named "Wirtschaftskaufmann", meaning industrial/commercial clerk who works in a big or small office.
Also stayed at Russischer Hof in Weimar, wasn't impressed with the friendliness of the reception staff at all. And, like you, we couldn't get a table at their restaurant for the same evening.
Never made it to Colditz, but it's on my list. Sounds very interesting.
Have stayed in the Westin in Leipzig, too. Completely agree with you, was not impressed at all. The breakfast was included in my roomrate, fortunately (sepecial deal), and it was excellent, I would not have paid that much money for it.
I would like to learn more about Kaufmann - merchant/salesman. A "Kaufmann" in German is basically someone who is in business of selling and/or buying. It does not necessarily mean a small shop. For example, there is (or at least was) a recognized occupation requiring formal training named "Wirtschaftskaufmann", meaning industrial/commercial clerk who works in a big or small office.
Also stayed at Russischer Hof in Weimar, wasn't impressed with the friendliness of the reception staff at all. And, like you, we couldn't get a table at their restaurant for the same evening.
Never made it to Colditz, but it's on my list. Sounds very interesting.
Jun 17th, 2013, 06:59 AM
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You are writing such an interesting report! I am very anxious to visit several of the places you have described. Sounds like you got a great deal on your rental car! GPS is wonderful! We just purchased European maps for our GPS and it sure came in handy in Scotland. Now we have to make many trips to get our money's worth! 
Can't wait to hear more!
Can't wait to hear more!
Jun 17th, 2013, 09:33 AM
#46
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Ingo: In regard to "salesman" and "merchant," my theory is as follows: "Salesman" is derived from Anglo-Saxon and is more basic, with connotations of being down-to-earth, while "merchant" is derived from French, and has connotations of wealth.
A salesman might work in a store and sell individual items, while a merchant would be more likely to wholesale. That's my interpretation, and it's why I was amused by the "Kaufmann von Venedig." However, I realize that it's pretty presumptuous of me to snicker at a translation like that when great German poets did the work of translating Shakespeare. I mean, what do I know?
A salesman might work in a store and sell individual items, while a merchant would be more likely to wholesale. That's my interpretation, and it's why I was amused by the "Kaufmann von Venedig." However, I realize that it's pretty presumptuous of me to snicker at a translation like that when great German poets did the work of translating Shakespeare. I mean, what do I know?
Jun 17th, 2013, 10:26 AM
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I loved Weimar -- we stayed at Hotel Elephant which was lovely and right on the market square.
When we first started traveling, breakfasts were generally included with the room in German hotels... perhaps not so much any more, especially in the big places.
I'm loving your trip report, Peg, especially as we are planning for Berlin - Dresden next spring and gleaning lots of good ideas from you. Please do continue!
When we first started traveling, breakfasts were generally included with the room in German hotels... perhaps not so much any more, especially in the big places.
I'm loving your trip report, Peg, especially as we are planning for Berlin - Dresden next spring and gleaning lots of good ideas from you. Please do continue!
Jun 17th, 2013, 11:17 AM
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Peg: Thanks, makes sense. I have not idea if it was a great German poet who translated "Merchant" to "Kaufmann." Maybe a more accurate translation would be "Großkaufmann" then ... but that would sound horrible as title ... ;-)
Jun 17th, 2013, 11:25 AM
#49
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Trophywife: I recommend the Hilton in Dresden. I really liked it. I don't know your price range, but I prefer to pay only about $100 per night when possible. The Hilton was $127, prepaid, non-refundable, so that was reasonable. The Westin in Leipzig was about the same, give or take a few bucks, as was the Russischer Hof in Weimar.
I fretted a bit about the non-refundable part, so I bought Travel Guard insurance to cover the cost if I broke a leg or something.
I fretted a bit about the non-refundable part, so I bought Travel Guard insurance to cover the cost if I broke a leg or something.
Jun 18th, 2013, 02:35 AM
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Hi Peg,
You wrote: “The Hilton was $127, prepaid, non-refundable, so that was reasonable. The Westin in Leipzig was about the same, give or take a few bucks, as was the Russischer Hof in Weimar.”
Wow, that’s sounds reasonable compared to prices in London and Paris, eh?
Good luck on your road trip….
You wrote: “The Hilton was $127, prepaid, non-refundable, so that was reasonable. The Westin in Leipzig was about the same, give or take a few bucks, as was the Russischer Hof in Weimar.”
Wow, that’s sounds reasonable compared to prices in London and Paris, eh?
Good luck on your road trip….
Jun 18th, 2013, 09:09 AM
#55
lateday - we paid about €100 a night for lovely rooms in both Potsdam and Dresden, [both recommendations from Ingo, as I recall] including excellent breakfasts. they weren't chain hotels, but none the worse for that.
Jun 18th, 2013, 04:47 PM
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Annhig, that sounds good. Haven’t been to Germany for some time. I loved Potsdam, especially CECILIENHOF, scene of the Berlin Conference in 1945 where the victorious powers conducted negotiations.
Also enjoying Peg’s solo jaunt….
Also enjoying Peg’s solo jaunt….
Jun 19th, 2013, 10:26 AM
#57
lateday - the hotel we stayed in in Potsdam had been a military baracks, the one in Dresden a convent, I think. both very comfy and individual which is what we like. it was a shame that we only had one night at each, but that was better than nothing.
Jun 19th, 2013, 10:29 AM
#58
oops, pressed too soon.
in Potsdam we only really saw the part between our hotel and the Brandenburger Tor [and the traditional restaurant right next door which was great] and the main palaces, and in Dresden we saw the Zwinger and walked around a lot!
I'd love to spend more time in and around Dresden, sometime.
in Potsdam we only really saw the part between our hotel and the Brandenburger Tor [and the traditional restaurant right next door which was great] and the main palaces, and in Dresden we saw the Zwinger and walked around a lot!
I'd love to spend more time in and around Dresden, sometime.
Jun 30th, 2013, 09:53 AM
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I've been holding off finishing this TR until I learn how to post pictures on it, but that doesn't seem to be happening fast enough. It's a very complicated process because my sister has to tell me how to do it over the phone. I am not a computer phobe, rather more like a computer developmentally disabled, to use a PC phrase that I just made up. I've decided I'll finish the TR and then post pictures on a separate post.
So I rented the car in Weimar. Kind of a nice experience, as the two young men in the rental office were pleasant and helpful. One of them showed me the different features of the car, including a form which apparently registered all the work and maintenance that had been done to this car. At least I think that's what he said. I didn't seem to understand much of his German. I'm not sure whether that was because he was speaking dialect or because my German has deteriorated even further than I thought it had.
The car--I never did find out what kind it was--cost $217 for up to three days, though I used it only for two. It had a GPS, which was great, except for one memorable exception.
When I checked out driving time from Weimar to Wernigerode on Viamichelin, it seemed longer--over 3 hours--but it ended up to be only about 2 hours, all on secondary roads. The only holdup was when I stopped for lunch. I saw a sign for McDonald's, and I thought about just continuing into town to find a real restaurant, but since I didn't know how long a drive I had before me, I decided to stop there.
This McDonald's was the busiest and worst organized one I've ever seen, but I thought it would be faster than finding an option, so I bit the bullet and waited and waited and waited and finally had a burger and fries.
My GPS did a terrific job of finding my hotel, the Pfälzer Hof. Left to my own devices, I'm not sure I could have found it, since it was on a side street in a residential area.
The check-in was a little weird because there didn't seem to be anyone around. At the front door was a doorbell, which I rang and was answered by a woman's voice. She told me how to get the key, and I made my way up to the room without seeing a living soul. The room was quite tiny (ah! the joys of the European single!) but I guess it had everything I needed, except a bedside stand. I took the trash can and covered it with a binder on which I placed my alarm clock, glass of water, etc. The room had a little skylight sort of window with a shade I could pull down and fasten. It didn't completely darken the room, but I have an eye mask, which I used so that it wasn't a problem.
I'll submit this and continue later.
So I rented the car in Weimar. Kind of a nice experience, as the two young men in the rental office were pleasant and helpful. One of them showed me the different features of the car, including a form which apparently registered all the work and maintenance that had been done to this car. At least I think that's what he said. I didn't seem to understand much of his German. I'm not sure whether that was because he was speaking dialect or because my German has deteriorated even further than I thought it had.
The car--I never did find out what kind it was--cost $217 for up to three days, though I used it only for two. It had a GPS, which was great, except for one memorable exception.
When I checked out driving time from Weimar to Wernigerode on Viamichelin, it seemed longer--over 3 hours--but it ended up to be only about 2 hours, all on secondary roads. The only holdup was when I stopped for lunch. I saw a sign for McDonald's, and I thought about just continuing into town to find a real restaurant, but since I didn't know how long a drive I had before me, I decided to stop there.
This McDonald's was the busiest and worst organized one I've ever seen, but I thought it would be faster than finding an option, so I bit the bullet and waited and waited and waited and finally had a burger and fries.
My GPS did a terrific job of finding my hotel, the Pfälzer Hof. Left to my own devices, I'm not sure I could have found it, since it was on a side street in a residential area.
The check-in was a little weird because there didn't seem to be anyone around. At the front door was a doorbell, which I rang and was answered by a woman's voice. She told me how to get the key, and I made my way up to the room without seeing a living soul. The room was quite tiny (ah! the joys of the European single!) but I guess it had everything I needed, except a bedside stand. I took the trash can and covered it with a binder on which I placed my alarm clock, glass of water, etc. The room had a little skylight sort of window with a shade I could pull down and fasten. It didn't completely darken the room, but I have an eye mask, which I used so that it wasn't a problem.
I'll submit this and continue later.
