Patrick

We departed the ferry with our car in Palermo about 10:00 -- of course, we were the very last car off since we had been one of the first cars on back in Cagliari the night before. With maps in hand we found our way through Palermo and off to the east heading for Milazzo. We thought we'd stop for lunch in Celafu, but as luck would have it, suddenly the heavens opened up and Sicily got what it had been waiting for for months -- rain. I live in Florida and I know rain, but this torrential downpour matched anything I've ever seen at home. We could barely see to drive, yet were a little afraid to pull off the side, so we inched along on the autostrata about 20 miles on hour, focusing on the tail lights in front of us. <BR><BR>Fortunately the rain soon cleared and we arrived in Milazzo about 2:00. We had reserved a space at the Garage del isole, and there were signs all along the access road into Milazzo pointing the way. A quick check-in and they brought the van around to shuttle us to the harbour. We arrived at the harbour, the man pointed out the ticket office for the hydrofoils along the wharf, and we unloaded our luggage. As soon as the van drove off, that torrential rain caught up with us again, and it poured. We headed for cover, found our umbrellas, got our tickets, and within 20 minutes our hydrofoil was ready to leave. We were soaked to the skin, our luggage was sopping wet (fortunately nothing leaked). We got on the hydrofoil hoping this wasn't the start of what was to be. But by the time we reached Lipari (less than an hour) the sun was out, and we didn't see another drop (hardly even a cloud) for several weeks to come.<BR><BR>The main island of Lipari in the Aeolian islands just off the northeast coast of Sicily (actually part of Sicily) was a delight. We knew we wanted to stay on the main island as we like a little more activity around us. We had some trouble picking a hotel as we didn't want to be away from the center, worry about walking or other transportation back and forth, and we definitely didn't want a place with half or full pension. This was somewhat a problem (as well as a lot of one week minimums) during the height of season. This was now July 27 -- the real onslaught was coming on August 1st.<BR><BR>We stayed at the very small Poseidon, right off the main street in Lipari, nearer the large harbor where the ferries come in, rather that the small busy harbor where the hydrofoils and many little tour boats come in. But even that was only about a 10 minute walk along the busiest pedestrian streets of the town. The Poseidon was only about 15 rooms, and our room on the first floor (second to most Americans) opened out onto a huge terrace which we shared with one other room. The large French doors had shutters on them which did make the room dark, but allowed a nice flow of air -- and I don't think we ever turned on the air-conditioning. Room was simply furnished, pleasant enough -- reminding me of a place in Greece, not Italy. Not as fancy as most places we'd being staying, but at 83 euro a night including breakfast, we sure weren't complaining.<BR><BR>

Patrick

We are independent type traveler's and usually don't do "tours" so we had planned to spend most of our four days in Lipari doing our own thing -- taking boats to the other islands and exploring on our own. We soon found that plan didn't seem too logical. The many individual companies touting day tours (and although there are a dozen or more such companies, they all seem to offer identical itineraries) seem to offer us more. For example one day we left early, stopping along the Lipari coast to swim off the back of the boat in crystal clear waters. Then we cruised all the way around the island of Panarea, stopping where we had a couple of hours on our own to "explore" or in our case sit down to a wonderful 2 hour lunch on a terrace of a small hotel up one of the winding streets overlooking the sea. From there, we set sail again, this time circling the island of Stromboli, then docking there where again we had a couple of hours to explore on our own. Some people stayted there to do a guided hike to the top of the volcano arriving after sunset and then returning by a boat departing after midnight. But instead we rejoined our same boat about sunset and we drifted off the north shore of Stromboli to watch the "fireworks" of the volcano after dark, and then heading back to Lipari arriving about 11 at night. This trip was with Regina-Viking, which we felt seemed to be one of the most organized and better quality of the tours. Another day we did a trip with another company to the islands of Filicudi and Alicudi, not really much to either island, but again, we had a fantastic lunch along the beach on Alicudi. Again that day, the boat stopped, this time at a very blue lagoon with a small grotto off Filicudi.<BR><BR>We visited the island of Vulcano on our own -- that was easy. You smell it before you arrive, and although we hiked around the mud pools and the "steam pots", there really wasn't much there. Again, we opted not to hike all the way up to the top of the volcano. <BR><BR>

Sarah

Sounds wonderful Patrick and it seems that some of the Italian experience is making it's way into your writing "the heavens opened up", a lot like a painting.<BR><BR>So was the volcano beautiful after dark? Was it high up flowing into the ocean? Did you see any projections into the sky? I have only ever seen Kileaua on the big island of Hawaii and never straight up but rolling down a peak flows.<BR><BR>Can't believe Stromboli is place and a dish? Trying to get my nephew to consider a semester in Italy well now I have some more insentive. Love to hear about the kind of food you ate on your trip.

Patrick

We enjoyed the main island of Lipari and its central town the most. The main streets are pedestrian, and at night they literally set up bars and restaurants right out into the street. Our first night's dinner was at the very popular Fillipino. It was larger and less "garden like" than we had expected. The food was excellent, but the entire evening was overshadowed by a sense of "rushing". We sat and were handed our menus and they wanted to take our order. We asked for a few minutes and when we ordered our wine, they immediately wanted to take our order again. When we did order, only a few minutes passed and there were our first courses. The hovered and whipped plates away before the final fork hit them. The brought the second course as they cleared the first. We kept saying we'd like to take time, but it was one of the most rushed meals I've ever had in Italy. <BR>Our best meal was at La Pirate, right on the water next to the small boat harbor. Wonderful food, elegant candlelit outdoor setting, and perfect service. Another good meal at Il Viccola one of many standard little places on one of the little alleyways right off the main street -- fantastic pastas and grilled fresh fish.<BR><BR>The "castello" on the cliff that divides the two harbors of Lipari was interesting. There was a stunning church, and a very well organized and presented archeology museum. The highlight there was a huge collection of amazingly preserved amphoras salvaged from local ancient shipwrecks.<BR><BR>Leaving the island became a little difficult. When we arrived at the harbor on our final morning for the first hydrofoil, we found that a couple of them weren't running. Although you can't reserve seats a day in advance for the hydrofoils, there was a "list" apparently of locals. If you weren't on the list, you couldn't get tickets for the first one. We had to wait an extra hour and a half or so to catch the next one. <BR>

evelyntrav

I have truly enjoyed reading your trip reports, especially since we are completing our arrangements for our Sicily visit May 2003. Did you have to reserve space in the parking garage in Milazzo? How many nights did you stay on Lipari? Other than the wonderful lunch, did you think the trip to Filicudi and Alicudi was worthwhile? We were planning on spending three nights on Lipari, one day on an organized tour day trip to Stromboli and another day on our own to visit Vulcano.

Patrick

Whenever I can relax on a boat in the sun, the wind whipping through my hair, the sea spray cooling my brow, and take a dip or two in crystal clear waters of a quiet lagoon off the back of a boat, then yes, it is worth it. It was a beautiful day -- not architechturally or historical fullfilling -- just plain enjoyable and relaxing, something I'm normally not very good at doing.<BR>We did email a reservation for the garage, (actually the car apparently stayed outside in a locked compound -- there wasn't much of a garage) but I don't think it would have been necessary at all -- even the end of July when we were there.

Patrick

I'd also suggest looking at the day trips than combine both Panarea and Stromboli. To see the eruptions you really need to be there at night, and the earlier part of the day provides the opportunity to explore Panarea a bit as well, since it is halfway to Stromboli. We were there four nights and wouldn't have wanted any less than that. In fact, probably would have been happy with one more day -- we never really did explore the rest of the island of Lipari itself.<BR><BR>Regarding the explosions of Stromboli. Every half minute to three minutes there seemed to be an explosion, sometimes spewing hot rocks and lava into the air. No we couldn't see any oozing down the side of the mountain, just spraying up into the air and coming down again.

judy

We are going for 3 nights. What would you have left out if you only had 3 nights?

Patrick

Actually I'd have left out the Vulcano trip and just done the two day trips -- one to Panarea and Stromboli, the other to Alicudi and Filicudi. That is assuming you have at least a half day to explore Lipari itself.

Alain

Hi Patrick, great report...but it looks like you haven't hit Salina which in my opinion is the most beautifull of all the Eolian islands. If indeed you haven't, it will be a good reason to come back!

Patrick

Interesting. We avoided Salina because according to several friends who had been there, "it was the biggest waste of time." We also talked with a couple of the little tour places and all said basically the same thing. "If you've done everything else and get bored, then go to Salina." I did see some pictures and they left me unimpressed. What is it about Salina that is so wonderful? I'm curious.

tia

ttt

Diana

Dear Patrick,<BR>We had just come back from the Amalfi Coast, Lipari and Taormina as our honeymoon. Like you, we stayed on Lipari and traveled to Stromboli, Panarea and Vulcano. We saw Salina from the distance and also have a beautifully photographed coffee table book of the Eolian islands. Salina looks kinda like Panarea in that book, very beautiful but not too different. I wish I'd known about all the restaurants you described in Lipari, but we made a little discovery of our own: La Cambusa. Just the memory of their caponata and stuffed calamari (or totani) makes me hungry.

gac

I have to respectfully disagree with Patrick about Salina (though I agree with him on just about everything else): I know Salina, I've been there, and can confirm that it is in fact quite beautiful and green, much more rustic than Lipari and less &quot;chick&quot; than Panarea. The cliffs at Pollara (where scenes from &quot;IL POSTINO&quot; were filmed) are gorgeous. I would recommend renting a moped to tour the Island, as it is the second largest in the Archipelago (after Lipari itself), and the local bus service, while reliable and inexpensive, does waste valuable time.

Andre

Resuscitating this excellent thread with some new questions:<BR><BR>a) What are the SNAV hydrofoils to/from Lipari like? The ride from Naples takes 3.5 hours, so I'd like to know what to expect re: seating (outside as well?), availability of food/beverages etc.<BR><BR>b) Another logistics question, this time with regard to the boat trip to Panarea &amp; Stromboli: are there changing rooms on the boats? I don't really want to spend the rest of the day in a wet bathing suit after taking a dip... <BR><BR>c) What water temps should we expect in early June?<BR><BR>Thanks for your feedback!<BR>Andre

Patrick

I only took the hydrofoils from Milazzo, but they are mostly the same (some smaller, some larger), presumably only the larger ones go to Naples. They can be very rough. There were lots of people getting sick on even the short ride from Milazzo, however that was after that brief but heavy rainstorm, so that may have been unusual.<BR><BR>Yes, there are restrooms on the day boats, so you can change. But I learned that in about 15 minutes your suit will probably be dry anyway. Most did stay in their bathing suits. Or else put something over them.<BR><BR>Water temps? Anyone else?

Andre

Thanks Patrick!<BR><BR>Hmm, 3,5 hours of barfing doesn't sound too tempting <BR><BR>Can you at least ride outdoors? Or are you stuck in a foul-smelling room if things get rough?<BR><BR>Andre

Patrick

On most hydrofoils I've been on, you're not allowed outside when it is running.

Andre

OK to sum things up, do you think this makes sense:<BR><BR>Leave Palermo at 16h45, arrive Lipari 20h15 (hopefully not too seasick...)<BR><BR>1st day Lipari: explore town, short hike etc.<BR><BR>2nd day Lipari: boat trip to Panarea &amp; Stromboli<BR><BR>3rd day: Hydrofoil to Messina @ 12h30, onwards to Taormina.<BR><BR>This would be within the context of a 2 week trip to Sicily... does it seem too hectic? <BR><BR>Im really not sure if I want to cut anything &quot;cultural&quot; from my itinerary (which I'm still fine-tuning) in order to spend extra time in the Aeolians. What would you do?<BR><BR>Andre

Patrick

Nope sounds good to me. But do you mean hydrofoil from Lipari to Milazzo rather than Messina?<BR>Your two full days and three nights in Lipari will give you a nice taste of it.