Just a short report: Hotel De Lutece on Ile St. Louis - about $125/night, and great, and great location. The Cheap Eats book - reliable (but be prepared for lots of Amercians in each place) - here are the ones we visited: Le Petit Nicois (7th); Au Petit Tonneau (7th); Le Bistro De Breteuil (for New Years Eve)(7th); Baracane-Bistrot De L'Oulette (4th); Le Bistrot Du Dome (4th); Chez Maitre Paul (6th); and Le Golfe De Naples (5th). A suggestion: don't go without a reservation, and always arrive on time. The food was, in all instances, very ,very good. For two, we generally averaged about $60 for lunch, $110 for dinner. We genreally odered a la carte and favored wines fron the list over house wines. We always started with a coupe de champagne, had cheese or dessert, and always coffee. Always a bottle of minerale water. In the past, we've dined exclusively at one or two stars ... but not this time ... and yet the food this time was just as memorable. One complaint: we always dressed for dinner, no matter how small the place. Many people showed up in what they'd worn all day. I think these lazy folks can do a bit better.<BR><BR>And now a personal message for the bearded gentleman who was at the table adjoining ours in Chez Maitre Paul, the night of December 30, about 9:30 p.m. - you know who you are, the guy in the sweater who looked like some failed academic from CA - and who leaned over to our table and asked one of the women who smoked whether she could put out her cigarette until he finished his dessert ... next time, buddy, we're going to take that sweater off your left coast, miserable body and throw Euros at your stuffy self. You're from some small town in Marin Co., no doubt, probably on a stolen hoiday with one of your graduate students (she looked the type!) trying to retrace the ex-pats of the 20's. We're going to make certain your sun also sets, and give you the big F for style. Other than that amazer, Paris was FAB. Ciao, Leone

Just had to say that's hilarious about the CA gentleman! Thanks for the story.

Leone: Any comment on opera's or ballet's. How was the weather? Leaving Jan.15. Great story about the ugly American.

Leone<BR><BR>The question is... did she?<BR>Put it out that is?<BR><BR<BR><BR>Kavey

Elodie, if you only knew ... we were in Escata, Armani (well, not me, but I was in all black) ... nicer haircuts too ... we were cool, underarms dry, powedered ... we had our forks in the left hand ... we were sniffing our wine (waiting for it to open) ... we were using our french, n'est-ce pas ... we were, in a word, the cat's meow or the bees knees, take your pick. And then bearded wonder, avec the TA, droops over ever so quitely (he made certain not to raise our male ires) and attempted to intimidate my companion (I've tried the same with her and it never succeeeds) with some sort of tone, quite but sincere ... "could you puleeze put out those cigarettes until we've completed our dessert course ... we shall not be very long in leaving this establishment." Good thing we didn't hear him ... we'd have introduce the Euro early. I was so disturbed it took me a full five seconds to refocus on my poulet avec morilles and St. Emilion. Wow, the nerve of those academics. In reality, he probably should have been home planning lesson assignments, not disturbing his betters in the 6eme. The TA acted like she wanted to join our table ... she's learned an important lesson ... gentleman C beats an A every time. Ciao, Leone

Leone, I don't understand what the man did that was so infuriating. Wearing a sweater or a beard that offended your sense of style, that I can understand, but why is it wrong to politely (if he was polite) request that a fellow tourist in a nice restaurant postpone a cigarette for a few minutes? Before someone heaps more of the same ridicule on my head, no, I've never been so outspoken myself, though it's hard to enjoy an expensive dessert with a cloud of smoke hanging overhead. At least with an ugly sweater at the next table you can avert your eyes, or get a few laughs out of it at his expense.<BR>Enjoy your trip, I was there a few months ago.

Well, Kavey, she put IT out. gt; ... as she would have me, if I'd dare say anything. She gave him the old slant eyed focus (she does it with the cats all the time, quite convincingly, I might add) ... and snubbed it. Now, Mike, god, I just knew somebody was going to ask me something cultural. Let me be up front ... the only cultural thing I did from Firday to Tues was the Marmotton in the 16eme, looking at the 50 Monets (I counted!). The rest of the time I cruised the waters and byways where I used to live, and tried the restaurants, salons and bars ... Paris was cool and rainy Friday and Saturday, and sunny and cool Sunday and Monday.<BR><BR>May I share our NYE meal ... Le Bistro De Bretuil (yep, Cheap Eats book): Now this will take some time: We started with coupe de champagne et amuse-Bouche ... and selected one: Foie gras frais de canard mi-cuit et son verre de Sautres ou 12 huitres fines de claire Marennes Oleron No 2 ... followed by cassolette de Homard au Corail d'oursin, et granite de pomme verte au vieux calvados ... and selected one: filet de boeuf Rossini ou Cigue de Chevreuil grand veneur ou noisettes d'agneau aux morilles ... followed by fromages de nos provinces sur mesculin de salades, delice de l'An 2002, et cafe et Mignardises ... of ouse with several bottles of champagnes and two good 1998 St. Emilion Grand Crus. Since we were not far from the Seine and Trocadero where they shot off the firewroks, we went outside and watched a few explosions at midnight, and then paid our bill sometime later and took the Metro home (near staion Duroc), which was free that evening. No taxis to be had. And a 6 a.m. wake-up, limo at 7 a.m., and endrung the true misery of the classic morning after .... facing Delta Airlines at CDG. White baggie, please! Have a wonderful time in Paris ... we'll be back there soon. Ciao, Leone

Dina, Dina, Dina ... I will not heap upon you. He was not infuriating ... he was drooping over my companion, diverting her eyes from the pleasures of looking at me, with full focus (I was in black, black and more black ... I outted my plaids over NJ, as you may imagine) ... he didn't offend my sense of style ... he had on a sweater, ugly or not, immaterial of course. Postpone a cigarette ... yo, postpone life would be as easy if you're expecting a smoker to postpone ... easier to postpone that dessert in front of the fawning TA (she's definietly one of those front row types ... we never allowed that type into the Beta house, I may assure you). One cannot laugh at an ugly sweater ... even on an academic. No, it was the notion that he might address his betters in some misguided request for alms or assistance or attention. I reserve my laughter for the warranted. He was polite in his own way, I suppose, but lacking in style, quite naturally. I just bet we never see his kind in DC or on Surfrider Beach in Malibu. Please, lets have no more discussion about sweaters. Ciao, Leone

Leone - For God sakes have you never heard of second hand smoke and all the people that die from it every year? He made a simple request. You couldn't have waited a few minutes before smoking? That tells me what an addiction you must have to cigarettes.<BR><BR>It's one thing being a few tables away and smoking taking place but when you're right next to someone you should exercise courtesy. <BR><BR>He may have had asthma, bronchitis. How would you feel if everytime someone ate something fattening it made your chances for a heart attack that much greater.<BR><BR>If I were you I wouldn't brag. You were not funny. <BR><BR>For some of us it is a real health problem and why should someone not beable to enjoy their dessert.<BR><BR>Shame on you.

Leone - Escada is not spelled ESCATA. So quit bragging about what you were wearing. I'm sure ESCADA wasn't even present. You can't even spell the name correctly.<BR><BR>You're such a fake.

Leone-so good to hear from you, you make me long for a warm French bistro on a cold French night all that champagne! and in any restaurant in Paris that I have been in, no one asks anyone to put out their cigarette~it is taken for granted that everyone understands that one must smoke while dining in Paris!!! and how gauche of the California prof to drape himself anywhere but on his own tootsie! If he was already having dessert,he could have suffered in silence....your friend is a lady-my husband would have withered him with a slanted look also, well honed after years of practice,when I do it - people ask me what's in my eye!<BR>Which room did you have in the Lutece, isn't it a great street? Did you go to St Chappelle? Did you sit and watch the people from a cool cafe? Tell more, I miss Paris~C

Leone - not everyone can afford to dress in ESCATA (oops ESCADA). So quit acting like you're a Princess and everyone else is a pauper.<BR><BR>Secondly you should learn how to spell.<BR><BR>ESCADA - not escata<BR>American - not Amercian<BR>generally - not genreally<BR>mineral - not minerale<BR><BR>So, before I would go around bragging about all you did and how much you spent I suggest you invest $3.95 in a pocket dictionary.

Escada and XSmoker-PIPE DOWN<BR>this thread is for being nice, you can find somewhere else to be not nice .

X smoker, of course I've heard of second-hand smoke - I'm not out of it, well, not completely. I think that's more an asian issue these days, and certainly not a problem in Paris. I mean, if they're all smoking, I'm having a problem locating a second hand. Look, if he had had asthma, what the hell was he doing with a young TA - I'd have thought he'd wish to save his breath for something useful. Nope, I'm not a smoker ... but I like to think I can be smokey in my outlook, especially when we get those Julie London 33's on the ole turn stile. Speaking of which, I'm all for dessert. Look, I hope you don't have a problem with the illegal stuff ... we'd really have a parting of the companies. Look, maybe the solution is nobody inhales. Then it's just a dry cleaning thing. Ciao, L

Okay, I promise to be serious - bless your heart, c, you've brought me back to my senses. Let me apologize for my bad typing ... I wasn't in the EscaDa ... they no longer carry the 41 long. C, De Lutece was wonderful ... room 551. Friends up the street at No. 59, Des Deux Iles, Room 332. We did drink a toast to you, C ... we really did. I am sorry to say the fire in De Lutce was not burning, but we did build one in the downstairs room at Deux Iles. We really were there ... ask De Lutece about 551 - C and T were co-habitating, for shame. They'll tell you all about it. I had to laugh - the little lady brought us the small breakfast every morning ... and she was fast! Ordinarily we walked out our door, turned left, and then crossed the small foot bridge to Norte Dame. We were there only four days, so we spent most of our time in the 5th-6th-7th, where I lived at one time, sort of revisiting. We also spent Monday in the Marais, and earlier along St. Honore, at Pl. de Vendome (if we'd had time I wanted to go into the Ritz and drink a toast to Diana and Dodie). I wanted to ride the ferris wheel at Corcorde (it'sd coming down, even though 83% of people in Paris want it to remain), but my partner told me she was not at home in those things, so we settled for Madeleine, etc. Yes, we did walk to St. Chappelle (they had a concert ... and we tried to take advantage of some sun to see a few of the windows at the right angle). I liked Marmotton ... and afterward we walked up Victor Hugo to Etoille, and watched the best traffic jam - this was late Sunday afternoon - so we hopped on the subway, changed at a station, and got off at Cluny-La Sorbonne where I had two classes one time. Then walked down St. Michelle, then along the Seine to the double bridge, across to ND, alongside, then the foot bridge, and turned right and we were home, at De Lutece. We would have loved to buy you a coupe ... I do love Paris. I am sorry some folks seem to believe I'm a fake ... I can assure you I am the real article, as my dear love would reassure you. I do mess round a bit, just to laugh a little, but I am a fairly grounded type, well, kinda, except on my better days. Best of the best to you, c, and have a wonderful 2002. We'll chat again, I'm sure. Take care, and ciao, Leone

Thank you L. for helping me out with my need to hear about all things Parisian..glad the Lutece was good,I thought about you too, on 12.31.01--wondered if Paris was quieter this year or if everyone was out and enjoying the last night of a sad year and welcoming in a better new year...It was very cold here in NY and there were plenty of people out-but it was still kind of sad..thinking about all the people that were not celebrating with the one they loved.I am glad you had fun and that you had loved ones around you~Happy 2002,Leone..Candice

Candice, you'd have enjoyed Paris. The views were splendid, always. One of the joys of De Lutece was getting so quickly to that small bridge over to Notre Dame, and perhaps catching a boat as it passed under. And seeing the lights on ND from the adjoining buildings - just as a full moon rose over Ile de la Cite. It was a spectacular sight (aided, of course, by the wines eralier!!).<BR><BR>Blvd. St. Michelle and Saint Germain were, as usual, Paris central, and crowded. The subways were free NYE, can you imagine that. And here we were in black tie and minks, on line 10, exiting at Duroc, for dinner at Le Bistro De Breteuil. At midnight, we left the restaurant for a few minutes, stepped across the circle to gain a view of the Eiffel Tower, so that we might see the explosions over Trocadero - they were quite small.<BR><BR>One of the joys, of course, was the food, and I've posted about that elsewhere. We're planning to go back, and I hope that will be this year. But a return to S. Africa this fall, with an add-on to Botswana, is killing our budget, or at least denting it a bit. But Paris is pretty compelling. I am quite prepared to be quite financially irresponsible, and a real budget buster, when it comes to Paris! But I know I'm being responsible to me. From time to time, let me know how your plans for a Paris trip in the future are faring - I know you'll go back soon. And thanks very much for your good words about De Lutece - it is indeed a wonderful place, and they will see me again. Have a great 2002. Your friend, L

Hello Leone,<BR>I have enjoyed reading this whole thread, thank you for making my day, which of course is not saying much but on the other hand is saying alot.<BR>I have a question, was your companion smoking one of those foul/fowl smelling French cigs. or was she flauntingly American?<BR>Just curious.<BR>A.M.

They sell/smoke Gitanes in the US also-so which would be more foul? <BR>I think if I had to smell it in the US, I would & do, overlook it in Paris,because that is the way things are there <BR>Nic

L* We have been invited to a wedding in March,my birthday actually and we are playing with the idea of going for the wedding then hopping over to Paris for the rest of the week.(I will play the .."but it is my birthday,and I wanna go to Paris" card).We have stayed at the Angleterre on rue Jacob for the past few years, thinking of trying somewhere different this time..We always talk about doing it on a budget-but never turns out that way! But this time, with renovations on our home,ideas of buying a country house-I will take what I can get if it means I can go to Paris this spring~We will stay in touch~Have a good day~C